I have a 2003 Suburban, and about a month ago, I took it to a mechanic for a bunch of repairs, including new brakes, rotors, shocks, a leaking brake line, and fixing a squeak. They also did a "thorough safety check."

After I got it back, the squeak was still there. I took it back, they "fixed something," but the squeak remained. Since they were closed on Saturday and I had a trip planned, I had to take it to a different mechanic, who found that the water pump was leaking and needed to be replaced—which the first shop completely missed.

Fast forward a month, and my brake fluid starts leaking in the exact same spot where they originally repaired the brake line (right above the rear differential where several lines come together). I took a video showing it spraying when I press the brakes. Now, the truck is back at their shop getting fixed again.

I'm frustrated because I feel like I paid for work that wasn’t done right the first time. What’s the best way to handle this with the mechanic? Should I push for some kind of refund? Is this something I could dispute with my credit card?

Would love to hear from any mechanics or others who’ve dealt with this. Thanks!

I bought a 2022 Chevy Silverado brand new and then it had some factory transmission issues. It was under warranty, went to the dealer to be fixed Feb '24. I guess there is an issue with that year of Silverado so the part we needed was back ordered. They finally think they have the part and will have our truck back to us in about 10 days. I'm going to tell them to change the oil and replace the battery, but should I be concerned with anything else? Before the news today we were about to pursue lemon law on it, I don't know if I still need to go that route. Our warranty was 60,000 miles and we are JUST under that, so anything else goes wrong soon when we get it back I'm not sure it would be covered.

recently got in a minor collision that caused dents and paint chips, enough that i'll need a spray can to fix. trying to find a good brand for color match spray cans but duplicolor doesnt have my paint code (b-74p(-s)) and i cant seem to find many other renowned color match companies. was looking into paint scratch but reviews arent all the best. anyone have a good rec? thanks

I have a Ford Escape that has been sitting in my driveway for years because it won’t pass smog. It ran just fine before years ago it didn’t pass smog. Smog testers have no idea why it won’t pass smog. They don’t see any clear signs as to why it won’t pass smog. Is there any solutions to get my Ford Escape to pass smog? I’d like to drive it again and be able to tow my boat etc. Is there anything I can do or install on it to bypass the exhaust system so my Ford Escape can pass smog? Any advice would be greatly appreciated

Trying to understand the point of AutoAlliance LLC, (Ford - Mazda) NUMMI (GM - Toyota) and DSM ( Chrysler - Mitsubishi) Was the point to build Japanese cars to avoid Tariffs? Was it to reinvent American brands to build better cars due to declining quality? Was it to meet GOVT fuel economy goals? or was it just a way for American car companies to profit by re-badging Japanese cars?

Has anyone gone through the Consumer Assistance Program through Bureau of Automotive Repair & how long does it typically take for them to confirm your eligibility? I understand they send it through mail. Based in CA.

Car got hit by hail in Dallas, TX. Anyone know where to get it fixed? Looking for good options.

Hi everyone,

In many industries, including Automotive, electronic inspections rely on forms used on tablets or phones. These forms let users check boxes, enter data, and select vehicle statuses helping to reduce paperwork. While useful, they come with challenges:

• Limited customization: Any changes to these forms often require programming, which takes time and money.
• Document generation issues: Setting up proper docx or PDF exports, as well as generating reports, can be complicated and inconvenient.

My team is working on a new solution that eliminates these problems by using documents instead of forms as the foundation. The goal is to provide a tool that makes customizing inspection workflows easy and intuitive, while also streamlining report generation and exports into formats like docx and PDF.

Would such a solution be useful for you? What features would make this software more practical, comfortable, or intuitive for your needs?

I’d love to hear your thoughts—any feedback is greatly appreciated!

So I'm currently between getting a new Chevy Trailblazer with a Turbo engine, regular automatic transmission. Or a new Subaru Crosstrek with a CVT transmission. I've gotten mixed reviews on both and I would really appreciate if someone with experience with both could give me an educated ateer in the best direction.

For reference, I drive at least 600 miles a month just for work with a mix of highway and city driving.

Hey, I'm a pretty new tech at a diesel shop (4 weeks), and I'm also a sophomore in high-school. I've been doing odd jobs, such as installing some hydraulics and installing snowblowers on subcompact to compact tractors, as well as doing PDI's on some zero-turn lawnmowers. Matco has some really good deals on impact sockets, and I need a standard length set pretty soon. I've got a pretty good setup, almost filled up my 42" toolbox already, and have over 1k worth of tools in it so far. I spent my last paycheck on a Milwaukee impact wrench, and I hate to borrow tools. Basically, I need to know if spending $40 more on Matco sockets is worth it, or if I should just get Harbor Freight and save my money for something else.

Ole Musky's team recently took over the official Tesla sub-reddits.

So here is one for the people:

r/Teslagarbage

I am an indian high school student. I wanted to ask which option has much higher probability of admission. From top German University (TUM) to MIT, from IIT to MIT or from any top US university to MIT for mechanical engineering & integration of aerospace systems (integration of high-performance hypercars).

Hey everyone! I’m AJ, an auto electrician with 15 years of experience. I’ve noticed a lot of people struggle with sluggish acceleration—so I made a FREE guide to help you fix it in 10 minutes!*

First post here, so give me a break as its very specific.

I am a car guy, I have owned so many vehicles, yet I am not enthused to work on them, this comes into the post later.

Long story short, I was a OTR trucker and met my now wife, she came with me on the road and due to issues with her mother, we had to move her into my house and I went local. Currently I do not make enough so I am in the process of getting a new job, with that the inlaw will move out so my wife now needs a car.

Our daily is a 2011 LR4. We love it. It is lux and attractive and not some egg. To give some context, we will rag on Jeeps all day and everyday. We will appreciate the Bronco, but it is a Ford. She desperately wants a Defender. I lover her, I would buy one if i could afford it. But the story is, she drove a 07 MDX where she lived...

Louisville KY is a northern city. We all know that. She left south of Knoxville TN. It is totally different. She has seen me in the tight streets of Chicago or New Jersey, driving a semi. She is and always will be a passenger princess.

But the question is, she cannot drive my LR4 here, so we need a car. I am extremely bias to the Jag XJ Newest gen X351. Her dream car is a late 60s Mustang.

Do I convince her to sway to theJag? I know we could find a stang for roughly the same price. (67 stang for 12000 it is a rusty x, but we can get a solid xj for 10) - its her car i want her happy i just dont know the scenario because she is obsessed with the LR4.

And some more context, she had to ride in my parents suburban. Total hell. Some other story with that.

Hello. Looking for some advice on my passenger side sliding door that Is locking up and not wanting to engage when pushing the close door button, it has to be manually slid, I'm thinking maybe it's a bad wiring part

I am a high school student who is really interested in innovation & very passionate about engineering & technology. I want to make a fully autonomous flying supercar & many projects including jets, spacecraft, f1 cars, superbikes etc. After my bachelor's, I'll be doing a master's in motorsport engineering & another one in robotics (& possibly mechatronics along with robotics, if they are both available). I want to gain end-to-end knowledge & skillsets & want to work on these types of cutting-edge projects. Also I don't care about jobs I want to innovate so maybe I'll do startups. Please help me choose my field for bachelors, & briefly tell why you recommended that option....
Note: I know it's not easy but very tough but that doesn't matter to me cz I am committed to technology & will do everything at any cost.

im 19 years old attending random classes at my local community college, its a waste of my time and ive learned school like traditional school isnt for me. since i was little ive had a passion for cars just everything about then intruged me. as i got older i got my first car and started to tinker here and there as of rn 3 cars in ik its just a subaru but ive put an exhaust on new parts here and there and i really enjoy it. i was thinking of going to go into welding, but only for the money and not the happiness. ive been very lost trying to plan my life and have just been very in the weeds as i feel like i need to make big decisions so fast. i would love to move out of state if possible. i am not sure what i want to do but i know cars make me happy it makes the most sense. ive looked into some career apps to help me a bit and i saw one saying custom fabrication shops and too me that seems very fun and exciting. not the welding aspects i mean but just that job in general. what should i do? what trade do i need to go into? im just not sure where to go . how do i even get into a position like that the qualifications? and everything.

Basically: I've loved cars and everything related to physics since I have memory, I'm very young and I'm gonna enter college this month to study engineering just because I love mechanics THAT MUCH, yet I only like the intricate complexity behind the automotive industry, the way they are designed and built. I love all that stuff yet when I get to drive a car I like it but it isn't the big shit for me, I also HATE TO DEAD loud cars and the sound of an engine, although exciting, turns into annoyance soon after.

Am I the only who only likes the part of ''designing a car'' and not so much the part of ''driving and experience''? I feel I'm the only one who prefers a Executive Towncar over a Sporty 911.

Something similar happens to me with other things, I love to sit on my computer and work into something and learn how to code new things, but programmation bores me beyond comprehension.

I don't care about horsepower, or if the car is electric or gas, or if it sounds like a minigun... I only care if it drives good, looks good, and if it is so well designed the guys at the repair shop LOVE when one comes because of how easy it is to work on it.

That doesn't mean I don't like powerful asf cars, I love sports cars of course, I have quite a nice project for the future to build one of those cool ass Cobra kit cars, but even then, I don't see it as something so important when compared to say: a nice car for the common people with good MPG, excellent driveability and concise engineering.

TLDR: I can tell you the entire history of most brands, I can name all kind of obscure marquees and almost every car in the road, tell you about so many things and processes of physics relating mechanics and automotive industry yet when I look at a Ferrari I go ''meh, is not the big deal'' and I love Ferrari, it's just... that, not the bid deal.

Alright, let me try to explain this the best I can.... I made a mistake a couple months ago by putting the positive on the negative and the negative on the positive on my battery terminals . The positive side has a huge circuit breaker on it for preventing any damage to the ECU. Note 2010 Nissan Sentra 2l 4-cylinder. I went and bought a Walmart battery for around 100$ and things we're going fine. Within a week when the weather gets cold the car would not start. It would crank, but not start. So I bought a 2100 amp fatmax jump pack. Boom, car fires right up. After about 2 weeks the battery starts having problems. I'm thinking maybe it's just a cheap Walmart brand. So I return it and go to AutoZone and buy a die hard red. Started right up. I had the starter tested the alternator tested and the battery tested. All came back good. I was thinking I had a faulty ground wire. I took it to some ASE certified mechanics and they said my ground wire is fastened tightly and there is no corrosion. When I bought the car the previous owner was trying to hook up a backup camera for his Wife. He never finished it and the radio would come on whenever it wanted So I unhooked the radio completly .Bluetooth would work sporadically. There's a parasitic draw coming from somewhere. Even the ASE mechanics said they don't see anything wrong. I can't afford to buy a new battery every 2-3 weeks. Does anyone have an idea where I should look to fix this problem? I wish I had a multi meter. I would have to check every dam fuse on the car with it. I just want the problem fixed because I know if I let this go on like before I'm going to have the same results. Can anyone point me in the right direction on solving this problem. Thank you.....

I just took my soul on a long trip and thank the highest heaven Kia soul hamster, I made it home, but there were some issues along the way and I know I need to take it into a mechanic.

My last car ran great for a decade until it didn’t, so I never really had to do this before - how much information do you give to a mechanic to not get taken advantage of? Or is it like going to the doctor - they should know everything?

I have a 2016 Kia Soul that’s having an issue not turning over randomly on the first try unless I press down on the accelerator. That triggers the electric stability control light, but once I turn the car off, it starts up just fine and the electric stability light stays off.

While on my trip, it started stalling at red lights. I’d have to turn the car off, it would only turn over with the accelerator, and I’d have to start it again.

Initially, I was thinking it was a spark plug, but now I’m wondering if it’s a fuel injector issue. Is it rude to suggest to the mechanic what you think the issue could be? Is me reading up on car issues on reddit the same as perusing Web MD?

I guess I’m just looking for reassurance that this isn’t going to be a huge deal and also what I should say to the mechanic. Thanks!

Rats chewed the wires on the connector to the fuel rail pressure sensor on my 2018 ecosport 1.0L. The connector itself is on national backorder at Ford, and auto parts stores like AutoZone don't carry it. U-Pull yards near me don't have late model Fords so they don't have it. I have the connector, I'd love to just repair the wire, but the rats only left about a 1/4" wire sticking out of it. Any creative ideas to solve this problem? I'm about to start shoving bare wires into the sensor.