Hey peeplers

Last night I had a power Issue, caused by two fuses connected to a beamer whilst the audio Interface was connected vie Usb 2.0 to our main computer which was connected to the beamer (computer is fine and my studio is an old crappy house)

now to the interface: the interface seems to be working fine expcept the most important part of the interface the usb connection isnt working, i assume that due to the power peaks the usb connection of the interface got damaged but i am in no way an electrical engineer so pls help 🥺

specs: Focusrite Scarlett 18i20 1. gen

I recently put together an early 90's system but am having problems with audio cutting on one side. The receiver is a Technics SU-G91. This happens on all sources and channels. I have found that the B channel select button has multiple effects on this issue. Pushing the buttom on/off mulitple times will momentarily solve the problem. Pushing this button causes crackling. Pushing the button in about halfway will completely solve this issue but obviously isn't a feasible solution. Any suggestions? Does this sound like a cold/bad solder, bad/broken traces or just dirty contacts on those buttons?

I purchased the HK Aura Studio 3 last year. It was working perfectly fine until yesterday. The touch sensitive buttons (volume, power, Bluetooth and light) are not responding. When plugged in, it switches on without the sound and is not connecting to Bluetooth it was paired to earlier. Any possible fixes for this?

Just got it second hand. And phono input 1 L channel fails if you wobble the connector. But I'm positive it just needs resoldering. It also has an undisclosed slight dent in the wood. Would you buy it? I asked for a discount to the seller, explaining the situation and that I’m willing to take the risk.

Been waiting a good while until I found one second hand, that’s why I’m reluctant to return it. I'm loving it otherwise, and I really want to keep it!

Video of the issue: https://www.reddit.com/r/rotarymixers/comments/1cjr7g6/ecler_warm_2_channel_failing/

I recently stumbled upon these speakers that my grandfather had made custom for him a long time ago, probably late 70's.

I have a pretty good understanding of audio equipment, but I've never made or repaired speakers before so I would love to use these ones as a personal project of mine because I think it will be fun and a learning experience.

My understanding:

I have briefly tested the speakers to an amp, as far as I know, all speakers (low frequency, mid-range, treble) seem to be producing sound. The middle-range and treble speakers seem to be in OK condition. The sound seems a bit muffled or not in optimal condition, (which is not surprising considering the age of these things). As even I can observe, the bass-speakers are clearly where the main problem lies.

Considering the age of these speakers, I'd like to hear your input on a couple of different things:

1. Should I just re-foam the bass-drivers or completely change them with new ones, personally I'm leaning towards completely changing them as I want to achieve a pretty good result by the end. And if I'm going to change the bass-driver, would it be reasonable to just change the mid-range and treble aswell?

2. Are there other factors than the drivers (speakers) I'll need to repair? I'm thinking wiring or other electrical components in the speakers that could be compromising the sound quality?

Any advice on repairing old speakers such as these is much appreciated as this is not my area of expertise. Thanks.

right, this problem appeared very suddenly. the crossfader produces a loud noise when crossing a certain point and the left channel fader also produces noise when moving it and/or outputs extreme volumes. i already tried cleaning contacts and replacing the channel fader. the vca chip on that side also outputs a dc offset which is kinda odd. i‘m afraid it‘s that one that‘s blown, but maybe you guys have another idea.

Firstly, apologies if this isn't the right sub - it seemed like you guys would have the relevant expertise. Please could you kindly read the below and offer any thoughts on why 'Headset B' doesn't work? It might help get a refund (we bought it 1-2 years ago but only had cause to try it recently). Thank you in advance for reading such a long post - please ask any questions if I've not made something clear, or left something out.

I have a set of Axiwi radios for rugby refereeing. They come with bundled headsets that are comprised of one earpiece and an inline mic, which I'll call "Headset A"

Yesterday I was given a new headset ("Headset B") to test, which is a single earpiece with a boom mic sticking out. I believe it is from a third-party manufacturer. I tested it with two users - one using Headset A and one using Headset B. Headset B user could maybe hear Headset A user very faintly. Headset A user could not hear Headset B user at all, but could hear everything they said into their own mic clearly in their own earpiece as if they had mic monitoring!

I've tested the jack contact layouts with an MAS830B multimeter (warning: PDF) set to 200k on the Ohms scale. Forgive me but I've not done electronics for 20 years. These were the readings:

https://i.imgur.com/TRoQhXQ.png

The readings for the two Axiwi OEM headsets (A and C) are very different to those for the new third-party headset (B), and also different to those from a 'control' headset (D - my work headset for calls from my PC and phone).

As an additional test, I plugged all four headsets into my phone and used them to record my voice and then play it back. The results were:

• A: Recorded and played back voice normally
• B: Voice was recording over phone mic not headset mic (i.e. phone did not recognise it as a mic). Played back normally.
• C: Recorded and played back voice normally
• D: Recorded and played back voice normally

I'd be grateful for any advice/reasoning on why Headset B 'functions' the way it does (i.e. doesn't seem to hear Headset A, and also appears to feed what it's receiving through the radio back into the radio as if it were its own mic).

Thanks in advance :)

Hey guys, I just got a Sony CMT 100, and the disk ejector is not working. I believe that it is a loose belt, but does anyone here know about any other issues that could cause the disk ejector not to work?

In some CDPs on the service bench, I’ve encountered a few in which the following happens on SAME cdp: 1. No disc on spindle, laser does up/down dance, and I can see the red laser diode dot in the lens—spindle motor never moves, get “no disc”. THIS IS NORMAL BEHAVIOR.

Inset CD, and it begins spinning, but never achieves TOC, so it spins down with “error “ message.

Played with adjusting laser power pot. And tracking gain pot. Some spin behavior change but still no TOC, and same “error “ message.

Checked caps and a few other components on laser and servo circuit, and all okay.

On the o-scope, I can see a crude eye pattern begin to form, but it collapses when cdp gives up on TOC.

I have seen exactly this same issue on a 1987 Kenwood cdp, using kss-123 laser head; and a 1985 Fisher cdp using a Sanyo laser head. Anyone know of a possible fix?

Thanks!!

I acquired this vintage akai ac3500 reciever for free. I changed a couple blown fuses on the amp board and it had powered up. I went to try it with a set of spare speakers and it sounds like it's shorting out... and putting way too much power out. I ended up blowing my woofer. I had a peek inside, and the capacitors look physically fine. I sprayed some deoxit d5 in the speaker power switches and the main power switch. No change. This is my first time with any sort of audio repair.

Hello, I was wondering if someone can help me figure out regarding a velodyrne sub f-series 1200. It cuts off at high volume. Works fine perfectly at low volume.

I'm having trouble getting any output audio from my MacBook wired to 2 KRK Rokit 5s via my ProFX6v3 mixer. When I play something, there are levels on the meter and I hear normal headphone output. I can also hear what's being played through USB output back to my MacBook speakers. But I can't figure out why I can't hear anything from either of the main outs, and I've tried using both XLR and 1/4" cables. Any advice appreciated.

https://www.bostonacoustics.com/shop/boston_acoustics-home_audio/rps1000

Hello,

I am looking for advice on how to repair my Boston Acoustics RPS 1000 subwoofer

Symptoms:

• subwoofer was working normally with intermittent crackling/popping/ripping/roaring noises
• currently the subwoofer does not emit any sound
• subwoofer is able to power on

Troubleshooting:

• subwoofer is connected to the receiver via a LFE cable
• changing the output (media type, volume, range) did not seem to influence the occurrance of the intermittent crackling/popping/ripping/roaring noises. occurrance of the noises seemed random
• changed out the LFE cable to no avail
• changed out the receiver to no avail

https://preview.redd.it/p1n495rufuxc1.jpg?width=569&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7c5e19ac7d46d150f49134077a74893b4d0989fe

https://preview.redd.it/vx3yw4rufuxc1.jpg?width=1012&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4ec9c4d40c8446121087cc5ee197ce07ebc6670f

https://preview.redd.it/srzys3rufuxc1.jpg?width=569&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=685eba12a1e204d2cd3c01d2a3b56dd5bd2e4848

https://preview.redd.it/x20s74rufuxc1.jpg?width=569&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=69790a90c7e0e723e89bccad2a8eeb68b20631db

https://preview.redd.it/eskk64rufuxc1.jpg?width=569&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3a9e360726990432ed79f9133e10f5506e522c94

https://preview.redd.it/bs2qt5rufuxc1.jpg?width=1012&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=06ba280a3166c34f5ee4594a51dd28eb4cdd18da

https://preview.redd.it/y7c7g4rufuxc1.jpg?width=1012&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ed330e5d4383dcdcf6d6cb1743e00e1212060017

I recently purchased a new plate amplifier for my subwoofer. Sounds like the volume pot is bad and needs to be replaced, so the vendor sent me a new volume pot. I have attached 3 images.

After removing all of the external screws on the outside of the plate, I cannot get the circuit board to pull off the backplate to replace the pot. It appears to be glued, and I'm wondering the best way to remove without damaging. I'm sure there is a best practice, but I'm having problems even Google searching as I'm not sure of the proper terms.

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

Here is a link to the amplifier: https://apexjr.com/Megabass.htm

https://preview.redd.it/aj8fddde6txc1.jpg?width=1600&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c9b1ffa18afeadf1c43d782908094413a66582c0

https://preview.redd.it/hlcr3lhc6txc1.jpg?width=1600&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9073f1e8da855a2af839a6fffc62672998ab93a7

https://preview.redd.it/skbn8u2d6txc1.jpg?width=1600&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a82070436f4964f4ea9499ebe9e33d8b37b470ba

I have a 2013 Premium Mustang that came with a shaker 500 stereo system, I upgraded after buying from crutchfield. I added 2 8 in subs 2 5-1/4"5-1/4" and 2 6"x8"6"x8". The original shaker subs were dual channel and the new subs are single channel. I added all the wiring so I think I am good there. That brings us to the issue where randomly the audio shorts out and it makes a loud static hiss. Sometimes the ford sync turns back on and my Bluetooth audio reconnects, more times than not the radio requires a car restart before I can repair Bluetooth/even turn the radio back on. I checked the fuse box and there is no issue there. I am wondering if it is a lack of power.

I am having a hard time troubleshooting and was wondering if anyone has experienced this. I have a video/audio if needed, but I don't want this post taken down for containing a link.

Thanks.

New Marantz 2245 owner- volume question…

Hi there, I was trouble shooting to get a buzz out of my left speaker last night… which I think I finally solved.

But now a new question - why do my speakers hooked up to a Marantz 2245 sometimes seems to not get 'power' / sound until I crank the volume a bit extra? Once they have the volume, I can turn it down lower and maintain it. But sometimes if I start low, nothing comes out, or just comes out of one of the speakers until I make it louder. Is this just normal?

Thank you!

I have a set of A5+ Classic's just outside of warranty, been speaking to their support, and they said its most likely the amp, they have replacement amps on their website for mine for $100, they also have the wireless amp for an additional $20, has anyone replaced their A5+ Classic amp with the A5+ Wireless Amp or know if the amp is compatible with the standard A5+ Classic cabinet?

I want to remove the existing antenna and solder on a length of coax but I still want to be able to receive the AM/FM radio as well as bringing in the digital cable signal in through the coax.

I assume the existing antenna uses both a center conductor and the shield, can you confirm? (Picture linked below)

Any suggestions on if I can achieve my goal (if I need to use a length of coax the same length as existing antenna so the radio tuner isn't surprised, can I split in an f-type or sma connector dongle for when I hook up to a digital cable signal?

https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Sony+FDL-220R+Watchman+Antenna+Replacement/33070

I tried the earbuds-to-tws-speakers project and the first bare bones test run was a success; I used a knockoff i11 earbuds chips and connected each to a TDA2030 amplifier module, powered by a cheap 9v battery

But the sound was terrible

However, same speakers and same BT modules plugged into my Akai AA-1010DB amp sound great

So do I need a better amp module than the TDA2030 or use a better power supply?

TiA