/r/audiorepair
For questions about audio repair.
For questions about audio repair.
See also https://kbin.social/m/audiorepair
/r/audiorepair
I have an orban VCA compressor that isnt passing audio or showing signal on meters. I suspect fried transistors after being overdriven
Will be running a thermal camera over some other gear and planning to take a look at this while Im at it. Will transistors heat up at idle with no signal or do I need to input signal for them to show temperature?
I have come across a Marantz 2215B with what I think is a bad transformer (measured RMS Voltage is not what is expected). The part no. for the transformer is TS1860302-0, which I have not been able to find anywhere.
And so I started looking for alternatives; one of which being the transformer (TS18603040) out of a Marantz 2216. The schematics almost similar, in fact, the power and main amp boards of each unit share the same part numbers.
Any transformer advice from those who have previously encountered something similar?
EDIT: Some more background will be useful.
As my first unit to work on, this Marantz has been challenging. It started with the left side cutting in and out, upon which I cleaned all contacts and replaced the output transistors. Evidently something went wrong, because powering on the unit resulted in both lamps on the P700 board to blow. After 10 seconds, the original 2A fuse blew. After replacing the lamps, all transistors, caps, and new (correct, this time) output transistors on the P700 board, I am still popping the main 2A fuse.
The thought was that the original fuse took too long to blow and caused the transformer to overheat and ultimately fail. Connecting my unit to a dim bulb tester prevents life signs to the unit but does allow me to see how the transformer steps the AC voltage down, and it does look correct.
Sony MHC-RG40. System flashes "NO TAPE" when I try to play a tape in either deck. Cleaned the heads, recording head on tape B (right), rollers, and capstans on both decks with 70% isopropyl alcohol/water, nothing. The unit doesn't have any mechanical switches to move the transport but I don't even think it's trying to do what it need to in an attempt to play because somehow... can't figure out how, it's not detecting a tape in either deck. All the latches and things look to be in place. Manual doesn't have anything about this error code or what to do to troubleshoot it. Any ideas how an early 2000s system "detects" a tape? Is there a switch somewhere? Tried the top/middle "arm", nothing. The B side (right has 3 top arms vs. 1 on left) but I think those are for detecting the record holes on a tape (B/right can only record).
I have this old AVR that's probably 14-15 years old by now.
The right loudspeaker makes a crackling sound that stays at the same level no matter if I raise or lower the playback volume. After a while it gives off a loud pop, whereupon the AVR shuts down. It can be turned on immediately, and then works for a while without the crackling.
Tried with different sources, phono, HDMI, optical, same issue.
Checked for shorts in the wiring - none. Tried another loudspeaker wire, and for a couple of minutes I thought the problem was gone, sound quality was better, but then the crackling returned.
Tried with different loudspeakers, no change.
My guess is the thing is pining for the fjords, but if there's a simple, cheap solution, I might give it a go.
Recording: http://sndup.net/n3v97
Has anyone used these pads? https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/wakefield-vette/CD-02-05-264/7070010
I'm testing and replacing the transistors on a Carver TFM-35 and wanted to get away from using new paste, so I ordered some pads from Digikey. Now I'm second guessing myself. If you look at the data sheet what do you think? They're the right size, and seem to be up to the job.
Hello All, remember in the late 90s the talking Christmas trees were all the rage? I distinctly remember my friend’s parents hooking up their boom box to the Douglas Fir Christmas tree and playing a cassette tape of The Who - See Me, Feel Me, and it was hysterical!
I wanted to see if I can recreate this jocularity, and found a brand new Douglas Fir Christmas tree on eBay from 1997! It’s my 3rd one, lol. The first one I didn’t realize they made two versions, one that doesn’t have aux in and one that does. First one bought, no aux, sigh. Second one, sensor broke and would only play once and not active after playing. 3rd one works great!
I have an Echo Dot Input device that uses the aux, 3.5mm cable to push Pandora to my old Bose Mini 2 speaker and thought that would work. I connected via Bluetooth on my iPhone to the input device and when I push music the tree isn’t responding correctly you can faintly here the canned music playing, Jingle Bells, when the aux wire is connected and no music from my phone. I then tried an Echo Dot speaker that has aux out and that did push the Pandora music to the tree speaker, but the eyes and mouth do not activate to the music.
The instructions state, “that it will only work using headphone jack, other audio jacks will not work. In this mode a portable CD player or other audio component with a headphone jack will also work.” Being that the two Echo devices aren’t considered to be headphone jacks I assume that is the reason it is not playing as expected.
So my question is there a Bluetooth device that I can sync my iPhone to and output via headphone out using aux cable and the tree will sync and work like the old boom box or is this never going to work because I using new technology vs old technology?
If you know of a device may someone share the make and model, thanks!
As the title say's, Receiver turns off intermittently. I just have to turn it back on and it will work for a day or so. Receiver does not seem to be overheating. Any ideas?
I bought some Yamaha hs3s, these are my first monitors ever, the right one doesn’t work. Anyone know why this is?
Hello all!
I have someone important in my life who I find incredibly difficult to purchase gifts for, as he is not sentimental, prefers practical gifts.
He runs a business where he repairs record players for others and he does a very good job and covers many models barring some older mechanical models as he says they are a 'fucking nightmare'.
Does anyone have any good ideas for a gift for someone in this field? I thought it would be good to ask directly to the community - if this type of post isn't allowed I am sorry mods!
Video with the exact issue (not mine): https://youtu.be/61U8STDk-TI
The door opens and it will recognize the tape, but it will not be able to activate the tape mechanism because a motorized gear is ratcheting against a worm gear which is connected to the seized mechanism. The gear is visibly worn but even if intact it wouldn't move the mechanism. I am not able to manually complete the tape loading sequence by turning the worm gear either. The problem is not the pulley belt. How to proceed?
This is also my first DAT machine so I am new to this type of mechanism. Any advice is helpful.
Hi, I have a boss audio systems Bvcp9700a and i am having issues with the rear view camera. I connected all the cables and it worked fine but when i re assembled it to organize the cables in my truck it stopped working. I did everything the exact same and now i’m getting a message saying no signal detected what do i do? Thanks in advance.
I have a Pioneer VSX-1016TXV receiver. It’s been a pretty good receiver. However the right speaker channel has stopped working. It seems all the other inputs are not working either as I’ve tried them all with speakers I know are good. The only channel that is working is the left speaker one. With regular operation & normal sound coming from it.
What would be the most likely culprit? A certain fuse? A blown capacitor?
I know the speakers are good as they all work on the left hookup. The speaker wire is all connected properly and in good order. I have a voltmeter, soldering iron, tools, & determination to try to figure this out and get all channels working as it used to. Nothing drastic was done either, not playing too loud, connecting more speakers, spill damage or anything.
Any advice or help is greatly appreciated. Thank you!
I'm not an engineer so I don't understand schematics or a lot of the jargon but I own an HK3390 and for the past 7 years have been searching for someone to fix it. It worked great one day, the next it just shut off when I powered it up. (?) I contacted a place about an hour and a half away and they want $125 just to look at it. They said it might not be repairable it they can't get the parts. I'm wondering if anyone knows how hard it is to get parts for these and how repairable they are. just don't want to waste the $. As I recall it sounded great so would love to revive it. Thank you!
How to Fix a CD Player Tray Issue? : r/vintageaudio
A few days ago, I posted a help request about my CD player tray not ejecting properly, and I received some helpful suggestions. Following the advice, I bought a new belt and replaced it, but the problem still persists. Upon further observation, I noticed that even when the belt is not installed, the spindle still rotates intermittently instead of continuously. I feel like this could be an issue, but I’m not sure if anyone else has encountered something similar. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Background:
When cleaning out a relative of mine's backroom I came across a Harman/Kardon AVR355 and a 5.1 Infinity Speaker system, they told me they no longer use it since it does not seem to work and that I can tinker with it.
I came home to set it up, but I have little knowledge of these systems and am eager to learn.
I opened it up and carefully cleaned away all the dust that accumulated as well as checked all obvious connections and solder points for any damage, however, I found none.
So I set up the AVR connected it with an optical cable and connected 2 speakers to see if I could get things up and running.
Problem:
The AVR starts in standby mode (the light at the power button is orange) it then struggles to turn on, so I have to turn it off at the switch at the back, wait 5-10 minutes, turn it back on and then it turns on. At this point, my AVR volume is -10 dB and my TV volume is set to 90% for me to hear anything clearly.
After 20-60 minutes it goes into standby mode automatically. I then have to repeat the first step of switching everything off however I can only wait a minute or two before switching it on again. The volume at this point is the same as previously stated.
Then after a few more minutes (I have not exactly timed this but it is roughly 10-90 minutes) it goes into standby mode again and I have to do the whole song and dance again, that said this time it goes even faster, but I also have to change the volume to -30dB on the AVR and to 10-16% on my TV to ensure the speakers don't blow as suddenly everything is much louder. The volume is also much clearer and when listening to music I feel the sound is crisper (I don't know how else to put this).
It has happened 6 times now that I have to do this song and dance 3 times to get a clear sound and every time it is the 3rd sequence the volume changes to much louder and I have to turn everything down out of fear of damaging the speakers.
Question:
So my question is how on earth do I fix it so that it works first time every time?
TL;DR:
Found a Harman/Kardon AVR355 and a 5.1 Infinity Speaker system, cleaned it up, and set it up. The AVR struggles to turn on, shuts off into standby after 20-60 mins, and gets louder after multiple resets. How can I fix it to work reliably?
It stopped working out of nowhere. I can insert a disc and it will load fine, but when it goes to spin the disc, it just makes this horrific noise for a bit before spitting the disc back out. Attempting to spin the disc manually doesn't "kickstart" it, either. It will just make the noise louder, sometimes.
I took my deck apart a few times for belt repairs and this time something stopped the arm that holds the recording function in place from moving it locking in place. Appreciate any advice. Will get pictures up soon.
Hello! I have inherited some old microphones from the 60-70's from what I could find out. One of them is this Sennheiser MD 421 that doesn't produce any sound at the moment. I think the connector might be modified since there was no screws holding it in place, only some tape to make it fit a bit tighter. I don't know if the wires came loose when I pulled out the connector, but I did it really slowly and carefully so I don't think so. I have never worked on microphones before so I don't really know where any of the wires should go or if something is wired the wrong way. Any advice on what to do or not do is appreciated!
(Edit: Images in comments)