Hello all — I have an (absolutely massive) pair of Linn Isobariks, picked up at a garage sale years ago. They sound fine, but I was curious if I should think about changing out the capacitors in the base (it's an external crossover).

Is there some way to tell if the capacitors are still working? (My understanding is that these are the first parts of the circuitry to go bad.) I'd rather not hump the whole thing to my repair guy, in part because... these are truly massive.

Hello there everybody!

My dad has a Denon 710AE amplifier. He has a slight problem with it. It keeps turning on/off - restarting on its own. The music is playing and suddenly out of nowhere it restarts itself. He had it somewhere in a repair shop, they had it there for 3 days but the couldn’t find anything with it, it hadn’t happened to them in those 3 days. Then we tried it home and the problem is remaining. Sometimes it keeps playing for example for 1 hour, sometimes it restarts after 30 seconds from turning on.

Had somebody here a similar problem?

Thanks anybody for answers❤️

Bought an Alesis Nanoverb on marketplace from an old guy who was selling what I came to learn was a deceased relatives audio gear for dumb cheap (first red flag)

Turn up at his doorstep, asked if he’d tested it, he said “ahhh… well… it lights up.. I can refund you if it doesn’t work..” and I just said yeah whatever sure as I’d already travelled there. I know better than to just plug stuff in though, I realised the power supply provided and the labelling on the unit were different which made me realise it’s likely fried before I even plugged it in. Found a shit 9VAC power supply that worked just fine for another piece of audio gear that fit as the regular 9VAC pedal power supply didn’t fit, I was treated with a bunch of clipped electrical currents in audio form as well as some squeaky electrical noises that sounded like the power supply discharging or something. Trying to figure out if there is realistically any hope for something like this as I believe this is the worst thing you could plug into this unit 🥲

I'm experiencing an issue with my CD player after a long period of inactivity. The tray refuses to eject properly. Initially, I thought it was a belt issue, but even after replacing the belt, the problem continues.

When attempting to eject, I notice the mechanism makes a stuttering/jerking motion, as if something is blocking it. When I manually pull out the tray (after lowering it), it slowly tries to retract itself with small, intermittent movements.

Symptoms:

• Tray won't eject normally
• Mechanism makes stuttering movements
• Belt replacement didn't solve the issue
• When manually extended, tray attempts to retract in small increments

Has anyone encountered a similar issue or knows how to fix this? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Sorry I can't upload videos here - I posted a link in another sub. Please let me know if this isn't allowed.

https://www.reddit.com/r/vintageaudio/comments/1gmijpc/cd_player_issue_tray_wont_eject_belt_replaced_but/

Hey Reddit community,

I'm in urgent need of help with a Pioneer wireless speaker system model XW-SX50 that got bricked during a firmware update. Here’s what happened:

I attempted to update the firmware on my XW-SX50. During the update process, it suddenly stopped, and since then, the speaker turns on but doesnt it respond to any inputs. I’ve tried the basics, like power-cycling, resetting, and using different outlets and cables, but nothing has worked so far.

After this happened, I reached out to Pioneer’s support multiple times—both through their ticket system and via email—but I haven’t received any helpful response yet. I really don’t want to give up on this speaker, so I’m hoping someone here might have experienced something similar or knows a workaround.

Some additional details:

• I started the update over USB
• The speaker does show lights
• I’ve tried pressing and holding various button combinations to see if I can reset it, with no success.

If anyone has advice, repair tips, or even a link to recovery firmware/software, I’d be immensely grateful! I’m open to suggestions, whether it's software fixes, disassembly tips, or any other approaches. Thank you in advance for any help you can provide!

I recently bought a Grundig Ovation CDS 7000 DEC and found that I cannot set the clock without a remote, leaving the screen constantly flashing the incorrect day and time when on standby. The only legitimate replacement remote I can find online costs 4x the amount I paid for the CDP. I have found a photo of the remote with the code 72011 713 7700. Is this a code I could use to connect a universal remote to the CDP? /Are there any other alternatives I could use as a remote?

(I am in Australia and haven't been able to find preprogrammed grundig remotes for sale outside of Europe)

Hi there, first time poster here. I bough a pair of tannoy R1s a few weeks ago. Unfortuantely didn't have a chance to check them but the seller promised they were in good working order. I didn't have an amplifier until today, so this afternoon I decided to test them out on my lastest purchase, a kenwood TRIO KA 60.

I had some flat bi-wire cable which I had lying around, and decided to use it to try these out, not in bi-wire mode mind you. I twisted 2 wires of each of the 4 together and insterted them into the speakers, as I read online (the speakers have jumper plates on the back). I then connected the speaker up to the amp.

When I switched the amp on, I got a fine signal from one side, but the other had basically no bass, just tinny high end, and when I turned it up to average listening level, I could head some scratchy distortion every now and. I spent the next couple of hours trouble shooting, swapping around outputs and cables etc. but still the same result. I thought initially I had the wire crossed over or the bridges not installed properly, but after digging around on the internet, it looks like the coil in my woofer might be broken.

Looking for some advice here as I'm obviously gutted my new set up is dead on arrival - hoping someone can clarify what the problem is / suggest some solutions! Bit of a novice here, so anything I've left out let me know andy I'll try to supply more info.

Appreciate any help!

So I have one of these little "hifi" systems, I got it for free this afternoon, however once I got it home I learned that it does not work. Not complaining it was free but perhaps someone could help me troubleshoot the problem.. At first I turned it on(after finding a power cable for it, as one was not supplied) and then my first attempt to power it on, it turned on and made that clicking sound and amplifier makes and immediately shut down.. do I'm guessing there's a short somewhere.. I left it alone for a little and when I came back I plugged it back in without any speakers connected and now it makes a rapid "clicking" sound? Is this thing toast or isnthis fixable? I apologise if my explanation is very vague but that's exactly what I'm experiencing, I'd have happy to answer any questions and any help/insight is greatly appreciated! -Blake

I recently picked up a pioneer sx770. It is certainly in need of an overhaul but it worked well enough over the course of multiple power cycles on passive speakers.

I decided to plug in my B&W ASW608 subwoofer to the line level input/outputs. I listened for a couple minutes at low volume then powered off the receiver. I heard a rather loud pop and it seems now something in the input circuit to the subwoofer has blown up. The receiver still works with my other speakers, and the sub will not respond to either line level or speaker level inputs.

My only guess is the rather expected voltage spike from turning off the amp was high enough on the line output to pop something in the subwoofer amplifier.

I took some DC readings from the receiver outputs and while it is running there is only 50-100mv, but when I cycle power I do see spikes of 2-5v, though I wouldn’t consider that enough to cause damage.

I can probably find a way to fix the subwoofer but I hope I can figure out a way to be certain it will not do this again, instead of just replacing the power supply and output coupling caps and hoping for the best.

So I get a Hum noise just plugged in, I dont see it with mic unplugged (which is probably my fault, I bought the Mixer to Mix audio signals, already have an Audio Interface for Microphone recording.

Started taking it apart after seeing other posts about how it could be a blown cap

Looks like reddit was right.

C53 and C48 are clearly blown, right ?

So after searching around I landed on many posts about hum / hiss noise from these mixers and lo and behold it seems I too am hit with this. This is an old unit, had it since I think 2013-2014 ? Barely used the Mic input as I mainly needed the mixer feature to mix 2 audio into the same so I could hear them at the same time. (honestly just needed a toslink/optical mixer but learnt in 201X that they didnt exist so converted all my signals to L/R analog and/or RCA and things were fine.)

Yesterday my Audio Interface started crapping out (guess what, its a Behringer too!) and I remember this little tank of a unit...till I plugged in the mic and all I can hear is a Hum / Hiss if I fiddle with the gain knob.

Made this post to ask is this worth fixing or should I just try a new audio mixer, I only need 2-3 inputs (3 incl. Mic). If replace is not the way to go here, can I ask for recommendations here or thats not a thing we do here. thanks in advance.

Just as the title says. Got these speakers today, so they are brand new. This only happens with the right speaker, the left speaker works just fine. The problem can be seen on the below link, as I recorded on turns how the left speaker sounds, and the how the right speaker sounds.

To be mentioned that while not hitting lower bass sounds, the right speaker also seem to work fine, even on higher bass sounds.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VJRKbWiyM_s

Hey folks,
I've been working on my first VZ -2000 and have come across a bit of a problem. The balance fader has dropped its brush (see attached photo). My initial plan was to de-solder the fader, repair it and re-solder it to the board. Unfortunately, I'm not having much luck on that front. Neither wick, nor solder sucker seems to be doing a decent job and I'm afraid I'll start lifting pads if I keep at it. I'm using a good quality iron with a well tinned tip (though it is conical). I was able to bend up the end of the fader to extract the brush and I read somewhere about someone reattaching it that way, but it doesn't seem very viable to me, there's not a lot of room to work and I can't see how I could jam the brush under the fader and affix it. This led me to wonder if I could just solder a bridge on the underside to essentially negate the fader. I'm not worried about resale value, this is just for my use and I don't have any need to tweak volume from one side to the other. Does anyone have any thoughts/experience on this front? I've attached pics of the underside where you can see my piss poor attempts at de-soldering (VR302). If anyone has any insights or could walk me through what pins to solder a jumper wire to I'd be forever grateful. I've already replaced all the belts and cleaned everything up, this is the last hurdle (I hope) before bringing this back to life.
Cheers and thanks.

https://preview.redd.it/hho3gdawfbzd1.jpg?width=1280&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b8afd0712b5fc8b7fd7faac73c0060b1dd73c636

https://preview.redd.it/1wgr5eawfbzd1.jpg?width=960&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=28bd4e2eed9b2da2c1f0dfe544e31a4641b0c74a

https://preview.redd.it/etvockawfbzd1.jpg?width=635&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f43d0461be80127cc1f3d490c17213b1c15a51fa

Having trouble with an RCA connection on my speaker.

The Female RCA connector on speaker ( https://imgur.com/a/8tgyYxV ) is loose on the inside and when the male RCA is put inside her ( https://imgur.com/a/nxpzG0V ), it doesn't make contact with her inside. If I angle and put pressure on the male pin sideways, it makes contact and  connects on the inside, and the sound goes through.  

How can I tighten up the inside of the female connector or broaden the male pin so that the connection between male and female is good.

I've opened everything up and everything else seems good.

Any ideas or suggestions on what I can do?

I have had problems with buzz, noise, hum, etc exclusively in my house (have tried with the same equipment and laptop + same equipment other laptop plugged into other places) since we got here. Just today I am noticing this new cyclical clicking that sounds like interference to me with one main click at about 50bpm and a "skipping" quieter and shorter click happening in between at over double the frequency or almost triplets.

For background, I am in Australia, I live on the same street as an older active telephone tower, power station, and train station, and I haven’t noticed this until i just recently got an aircon installed. The audio comes from an audio interface with 48v phantom power on plugged into an inline mic preamp. The differences in sound and volume come from me plugging one mic straight into the interface, then mic > inline preamp > interface with phantom power on, then another mic straight in, then that mic > inline preamp > interface with phantom power on to try and troubleshoot what the issue may be and if it was consistent through every combination.

Not too sure what the root of the problem is, I don’t think it’s my laptop or power board or bad XLR cables. Any insight helps!! Attached is a link to the raw audio and some screenshots of the waveforms, you can also see a video of the raw audio on another post I made that should be approved soon in r/ElectricalEngineering :)

https://preview.redd.it/mdo38wh5s8zd1.png?width=449&format=png&auto=webp&s=0b21ec78dbd4ee50885da79deff702c437a2944a

https://preview.redd.it/a24w1vh5s8zd1.png?width=708&format=png&auto=webp&s=45360ceeae77b57638ed5e53913167708976d0a8

I have a Sansui 5000 that has issues. I bought it advertised as working and it’s not, got a partial refund and a winter hobby of audio repair to consider.

The issues I’ve found are that the left channel is not producing sound, the F-1060(?) boards need to be updated or replaced with F-6013 if I can find them, and the power switch is failing.

I’ve tried to find good tutorials but I’m not finding much, and what I do find starts with buying an oscilloscope then offers little instruction. My main question is do people generally use tone generators and oscilloscopes for all of this or am I likely to have luck buying a “full rebuild” kit on eBay and replacing parts.

The forums often talk about repair as something a hobbyist can take on but I’m having trouble finding how to start. Any help would be appreciated.

I don’t object to hiring out the repair but I’ve had trouble finding any techs (NC, USA) that can do the work, with the only one agreeing telling me the bench fees would start at $400. That’s a big price toward a working unit or parts and tools.

I've been ATTEMPTING repairs on a few vintage solid-state integrated amps for quite some time -- Hitachi HA-4700 and Kenwood KA-3500, posted extensively , by me, here on Reddit, in dedicated threads.

The Hitachi had many issues on pwr-boards (mostly R channel ; see respective Reddit threads for those) , And I have tested/replaced a LOT.

Nevertheless, the R ch pwr trans -- from cold start; say first power up in the morning) will go into thermal runaway after about 2 minutes, at full normal 115v line voltage. I am very cautious with all amps on the bench: I bring up pwr very slowly on a varaic and monitor with Killa-Watt and FLIR thermal camera.

The FIRST thermal runaway - -say in the morning with the amp cold -- will happen all of a sudden (cold start, full 115v line power: so line wattage draw from 30w to 100, all of a sudden, after two minutes or so after that cold power-up). So I have to be very careful in these experiments, and watch the Killa-Watt like a hawk to kill power once I see the misbehavior.

After that first cold morning powerup, I re-try the experiment with the variac. Now, power starts rapidly increasing at about 50-60 v (Killa-Watt shows 50w at 60v line voltage feeding the amp). And I can back off on the variac, say, 10 v, and Killa-Watt shows lower 40w, etc). And, yes, the trans and heatsink will get respectively warm/hot.

I have all the idling-adj pots at MINIMUM on both channels.

I might be down to one thermistor as the the culprit -- dunno!!

Look at TH702 (noted in the schema and parts list as a "1k thermistor") in the photo attached below. Measuring across TH702R (in circuit, with my Fluke 87 dmm), I read about 1.4k (room temp). For TH702L (left channel), I read 1.2k.

If I put my finger on either of those thermistors, the resistance drops slowly. Removing my finger will cause the reverse.

QUESTION: Will a mere 200 ohm difference -- between TH702L and TH702R -- cause the thermal runaway I noted?

There are other thermistors on the pwr board. But they match in (IN-CIRCUIT) resistance value in both channels.

https://preview.redd.it/n3fadzfg25zd1.png?width=1920&format=png&auto=webp&s=838fc785e3046acddee5d01125f0d4204c43eff3

I was one of the many whose accounts on HiFi Engine and Vinyl Engine were terminated. Member for over 10 years, and never abused privileges, at either site. Very weird happenings at those sites and the common owner.

Anyway, if anyone here has access to those sites, please help me obtain these five (5) turntable manuals. Thx in advance.

Hitachi HT-45

https://www.vinylengine.com/library/hitachi/ht-45.shtml

https://www.vinylengine.com/ve_downloads/download.php?hitachi/hitachi_ht-45_en.pdf

https://www.vinylengine.com/ve_downloads/download.php?hitachi/hitachi_ht-45_service_en_de_fr.pdf

Harman Kardon T25

https://www.vinylengine.com/library/harman-kardon/t25.shtml

https://www.vinylengine.com/ve_downloads/download.php?harman_kardon/harmonkardon_t25.pdf

https://www.vinylengine.com/ve_downloads/download.php?harman_kardon/harmonkardon_t25_sm.pdf

https://www.vinylengine.com/ve_downloads/download.php?harman_kardon/harman_kardon_t25_t35_t45_t60_brochure_1983.pdf

Speakers and they’re customer service sucks big time Hope You Fail