It will get stuck on the rinse and spin part of the cycle for hours. It’s a Samsung front loader about 7 years old. We’ve been turning it off, taking the clothes out wet and putting them in the dryer like that, but last night they were sopping wet so I put it on a spin-only cycle that said it would last 9 minutes. FIVE HOURS later it was still going. Checked the little drain in front and it was empty, nothing was clogging it. What could be the problem?

I

Welp, it's time to get a bugle and play "Taps"...It's dead. I have to get a new one. I want an extra large gas top loader without an agitator. Any suggestions?? I live in the US

Just had a GE duel fuel range installed and it bakes well. However when the fan comes on that is designed to keep the electronic control board cool it is obnoxious. It is somewhat loud and does not sound smooth. It rattles and is very annoying when something is baking in the oven. Does anyone know if this is typical for this range? I am not sure if I want to call for service yet as sometimes when new things are taken apart and the original seals on things are broken it may cause problems later. If anyone has any input I would appreciate it.

We're trying to replace our whirlpool fridge filter. What is this white plastic thing that popped out? And why can't we get our filter to go in all the way without it getting stuck? (Already broke a sweat once- please save me)

I moved into a new apartment recently and noticed that the ice maker wasn’t making ice, maintenance came by and apparently the waterline behind the fridge was just off. He turned it on and it started making ice.

However the first batch of ice had lots of sediments and was green. I kept letting it run and now the ice looks fine, but is it safe to use??

I concerned that the ice is still dirty and am thinking about asking them to replace the water line…

Is it still dirty or should the bad stuff be flushed out by now and the ice is okay to use?

I have been using a hair dryer for the past twenty mins to defrost the frost and uncovered this. Thank you in advance for any guidance.

This is my first time with a dishwasher. We’ve noticed the past few washes it hasn’t been doing the best job and has had a smell. Google search pointed me to the filter which I didn’t know existed.. cleaned that; ran another cycle. It’s still a little smelly. Noticed there is all this water when I pull the filter out. Is that normal?

Is there a way to clean that basin? Since the filter was untouched for a while, I feel like that may be the issue.

Also, what does that white tab do?

Am I missing anything else? It’s a GE, not sure the model as it was here when we moved in

Our dishwasher is stopping mid cycle with an error code that's not in the manual. Three lights are flashing, "1/2" along with "3hr" and "6hr". The cycle runs for around 10 minutes then beeps/flashes. Water is hot when opened but detergent door hassn't opened and everything is still dirty. The water feed, drainage and power cable appear fine. I have cleared/checked filters and spray arms. The manual doesn't refer to the above 3-light error code so no help there.

Any suggestions as to what may be causing it to stop?

It's a KDW60X20 and is over 2 1/2 years old (rental flat).

My freezer isn’t freezing and I see there is frost… I am so inexperienced in this area so I am here for help: how might I be able to fix this issue?

Hello, I'm wondering if anyone can help diagnose my washer. I have a hotpoint.

A week or so ago, there was water leaking from the front left. So we cleaned the filter, and tightened a connection between the washer filter and the drain pipe (I may have the names wrong). It was all good for a week.

Then today, the washer showed error f05. So we checked the pipes and cleaned them all out. There was some pins etc stuck in there.

Then, there was a burning smell during the wash (the motor was working and the drum was spinning). The washer then began to randomly beep whilst washing. The washer then stopped and stated there was no water entering the machine. We've turned it off and called it a night...does anyone know what might be up? Likely will get someone to come out, but will buy a new one if it becomes expensive!

Note: I am renting so I don't own the washer. We have only been here a month. However our contract states we have to pay for all repairs - which makes buying a new one more tempting because we are ultimately paying to fix someone else's washer.

Thank you!!!!

Hey folks:

I have a WRF990SLAM02 model Whirlpool Gold french door, 29 cu. ft. fridge. It has ice maker issues where it was, for a while, making ice cubes that were liquid in the center. To be clear, these were not "hollow ice cubes" indicative of low ice maker water flow. They are simply not frozen all the way, and so every time it ejects it dumps water down the door when it tosses the shells into the ice bin.

Coinciding with the ice maker issues is an issue with soft ice cream. And there are a bunch of pre-diced veggies we prep and keep in the freezer that were previously firm and frosty, that are now frostless and look a little bit like they are defrosting. Also, a pack of kielbasa in the freezer seem to be able to be depressed a little bit with finger pressure. My temp-gun is saying that items are from 5 to 10 degrees F in the freezer, and the temp is set to -3 F. The upper fridge section is crack on with the temp, set to 38 F and is at 38 F.

Now, I've ran the built-in tests and all thermistors, fans, and cycles have passed. The ice maker gives an E5 code and after running tests, does absolutely nothing. It won't fill, freeze, or eject. If I unplug the fridge for 20 minutes to reset it, it still won't make ice. I've also thoroughly cleaned the condenser.

The only thing I can think is that it is old and low on freon EDIT: and maybe I need to replace the ice maker.

Anyone have any advice? I'd rather not replace this warrior of a fridge.

Do you do it? If so, what dictates wether you activate it for the washing stage? I recently got a miele. It has a feature on control board, but you can even increase it by several stages permanently through a programming menu. But so far ive only adjusted maximum water level for rinses..its such a good washer that i cant find any difference in washing results

Help, I have an old electric dryer that died but mistakenly ordered a gas dryer instead 🤦‍♀️

There’s a gas valve behind the dryer saying CIM 103 80osig WOG and the home inspection report says this is in an acceptable condition. Does anyone know if this gas valve would work with an LG gas dryer or should I call a plumber to confirm? The Costco install guys are coming in a few days.

This is a photo from inside the broiler tray of my oven. There are two visible areas of what looks like white insulation. I guess I am looking for answers to three questions:

1. Is that in fact insulation?
2. Is that normal (ie, from the manufacturer)?
3. Is the there any fire risk, especially with the bit at the bottom?

Hi! Moving to a new apartment this December. They're giving us the option for a new dishwasher, a Whirlpool (similar to the one in this photo). I know nothing about dishwashers because they've all broken on me 🫠

It would add $50 bucks to our rent. Due to living in some really unlucky places, I haven't had a working dishwasher in 8 years, so I usually hand-wash.

I'm leaning towards saying no to save money, but I'm wondering if dishwashers really save money on electricity or hot water. I feel like that might be viable in a house over years, or with a family.

We're 2 people in about 850 sqft, so it's usually 1-2 plates a day + a pan that's been cooked in. They probably just want me to pay for the unit and then keep collecting on the next tenant, right? Just want a confirm/deny, thanks!

I recently faced an issue with my LG refrigerator—it wasn’t cooling. I contacted the LG Support Desk, and after verifying my model and serial number, they confirmed that I qualified for a flat-rate repair of $400, as my appliance was reportedly less than 10 years old. I proceeded to pay $400 on the LG portal.

When the technician arrived, he determined that the fridge was unrepairable. LG then offered me a prorated amount of $1,088 toward a new LG refrigerator, provided I signed a form agreeing to this. However, the very next day, LG informed me that they couldn’t honor the refund because they now believed the refrigerator to be over 10 years old.

Although I purchased this fridge in 2019but lost the Bill of sale and , LG assured me initially that proof of purchase was not required, as the model and serial number indicated it wasn’t over 10 years old. Now, I am out the $400 repair fee, with no solution or compensation in sight, due to inconsistent information from LG.

To anyone considering an LG product, beware of these practices. I would caution anyone in Toronto, or elsewhere, against purchasing from LG based on this experience.

I recently faced an issue with my LG refrigerator—it wasn’t cooling. I contacted the LG Support Desk, and after verifying my model and serial number, they confirmed that I qualified for a flat-rate repair of $400, as my appliance was reportedly less than 10 years old. I proceeded to pay $400 on the LG portal.

When the technician arrived, he determined that the fridge was unrepairable. LG then offered me a prorated amount of $1,088 toward a new LG refrigerator, provided I signed a form agreeing to this. However, the very next day, LG informed me that they couldn’t honor the refund because they now believed the refrigerator to be over 10 years old.

Although I purchased this fridge in 2019but lost the Bill of sale and , LG assured me initially that proof of purchase was not required, as the model and serial number indicated it wasn’t over 10 years old. Now, I am out the $400 repair fee, with no solution or compensation in sight, due to inconsistent information from LG.

To anyone considering an LG product, beware of these practices. I would caution anyone in Toronto, or elsewhere, against purchasing from LG based on this experience.

Fridge is a Frigidaire LFHB2751TF0 built in July 2017.

Replaced the water filter on schedule a few weeks ago, water was coming out in spurts with a lot of force, even after enough time to clear air from the line. There was also a knocking noice coming from the filter area in the top corner, which I assumed was the pump not able to bring in any water. Took out filter and out it back in a half turn from where it was and it seemed to solve the issue.

A fews days later, water flow gets slower and slower until it just stops working at all. Got a replacement filter, which didn't make a difference. Then replaced the valve assembly at the rear, which didn't make a difference either. When the water dispenser trigger is depressed, there is a slight click noise but nothing comes out at all. A tiny bit of water was coming out when the valve was first replaced, but now there is none.

Throughout the whole time since the water flow slowed, there will every few hours be a big knocking noise coming from the filter area in the back corner of the fridge. It's loud enough to be heard anywhere in the house.

Fridge and freezer are working just fine. Ice maker is working, but not at max capacity or speed, I assume because something isn't right with the water intake and distribution system.

What's next to check or replace? Any help is really appreciated!

So I was frying chicken outside and forgot about it and I came back to the pan melted and the control panel melted is there a way to fix this i have only had this over for about a month

Hi all! I have a KitchenAid Microwave from 2015, Model KMHC319ESS-01 that is an over the range model. More often than not, when you close the door and hit start, the microwave won't turn on. It seems as though door latch is not catching/correctly calibrating. It will still turn on periodically and there is nothing else wrong with the microwave. Is this an easy fix for an older model? Or after 9 years, as it reached its end of use? I called a repair center and the trip charge to take a look is $120 not including parts/additional labor. Buying a new model/same style is $550-$800. I'd hate to throw out an entire microwave bc the door latch is faulty. Thanks for any thoughts.

Has anyone else experienced consistent leaking from the in door water pitcher from a GE (or similar fridge?) the service rep seemed to think it was from the door opening and closing, a little water splashes out. This seems like an unacceptable design flaw?

While it isn’t a lot of water but it’s consistent leaking - it seems bizarre that the answer is “it is what it is”?

Ordered from best buy, so far really like the fridge. I read the manual and attempted to adjust my self was unable. Had best buy come back out and they were able to adjust slightly but still uneven.

Not sure if I'm if I'm being picky or this is an expected finding. Just don't want to go outside the return window if I am not being dramatic lol