https://preview.redd.it/bdvenktxuozd1.jpg?width=1536&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=dc100ebbc8e4c057324ebcd8f6a049310258fa19

https://preview.redd.it/84q0tltxuozd1.jpg?width=1536&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=60ea9fb823bbf5dc5d427b451aa7ef5848ab9a70

Hello all! Looking for some help identifying this lowering link on my sumo converted 650. The person who owned the bike before me lowered it 3 inches overall. The bike is super low especially with me being 6'2''. I am trying to figure out what link this is and am not finding much online. It looks like it could be oem, but it has "KN5" stamped on it and I can not find a single link, OEM or otherwise, with that nomenclature. The sag adjustment is set as high as the rear can go and it still sits super low. I am starting to suspect that the subframe is chopped, which I really hope isn't the case. Anyone have any ideas on what link this could be?

Anyone know where to find new plastics for a 2002 XR650L? Or if any mount right up.

So I'm looking for some d-p and I'm trying to decide new or used. Im finding numerous 20 yo bikes around me for around 4k. some with nice upgrades, some with obvious issues that I'll be avoiding. I like the idea of buying new, no surprises, if I can locate one. So is a twenty year old xr650 an issue?

Sorry if this has been asked over and over.

Was changing tires today and noticed this on the rear wheel. Obviously not safe to throw back on, but I just wanted to get an opinion on the best option for fixing it.

The way I see it I have three choices:

1. Have the rim welded, not sure how strong it would be or even if it would be a good idea in this spot with it right on the bead, but probably the cheapest.
2. Replace just the rim, and the few spokes that are bent, and then true the wheel. I’ve never done that before but could probably figure it out. Seems to be the best option for me right now based on price and not having to worry about the strength of the rim.
3. Replace the whole wheel. Definitely pricey, and I don’t see a lot of options out there for it. But probably the easiest of the choices.

Any thoughts on the best road ahead?

For a conventional carb looks a little lean to me but this is my first Lectron so maybe normal not sure.

Bought my bike new two months ago. At first it seemed like it had a lot more pick up. Lots of unintentional wheelies. I’ve since put 1000 miles on it and it just seems like it’s gotten sluggish. Especially in second gear. Is this normal?

I want to make sure the bike is as reliable as possible and know the counter shaft sprocket is an issue so I replaced with a Fritzco. I also know the cdi as another weak point, my original cdi failed last year had no spark until I gave it a good wack. I seen a lot of comments online about the ignitech cdi so I ordered it from Spectrum and installed it. The bike fired right up and ran great. The problem is I can go to start it a week or to later and it doesn’t start, seems to have no spark. Then a week or to later it will start and run fine. It seems to only start when it wants to. So my question is what could be causing this? I was thinking maybe the pulse generator? All wiring looks good and safety switches seem good. Has anyone had trouble with the ignitech cdi? I have the bike put up for the season, have some other priorities to deal with, but was just looking for info for when I get it out in the spring if I can fix it myself which I’m no mechanic or I bring it in to be fixed. Any info is appreciated.

Took my XR for a ride today, with a full tank of fuel. 30km of running fine, then it dies when I pull the clutch in to downshift to climb a hill.

That’s strange. I’ve got lots of fuel. Long story short I couldn’t get it going again, and killed the battery trying. Ended up calling a friend with a truck to come get me and the bike.

I’ve read lots about the CDI issue, so I decided to pull the plug boot and check for spark with a spare plug. Looks good. Sparky sparky. Change out spare plug, old plug looks a little dark but also sparks.

The battery is dead, so I charge it at 2amps for a bit and decide to try and crank it after removing the charger.

I can get the bike to turn over and start, but dies instantly as soon as I let the throttle go. It will only stay running if I rev it high and hold the throttle open 1/4 to 1/2

Is my CDI fucked?

Do I have a plugged jet in my carb? Crappy gas?

Is my battery voltage just too low and I need to let it charge more?

I had the CDI out and it looks to be the original OEM manufacturer. Bike is a 2009 and has 16,000km. Dave’s mod, stage 1 hot cam, filter. I gave it a good whack before putting it back in.

I’m looking for some saddle bags recommendations for my XR650l and want to hear any reviews you guys may have. A quick google search and the results are a little intimidating with there being so many. Any help would be appreciated. Price range up to $350. Thanks!

Okay so to start I would like to say I’ve done a ton of research the last week before I made this post. And I’ve come across a lot of conflicting information….. And I’m sorry if I’m beating a dead horse.

I would like to do the “must do” mods to extend the bikes life as long as possible. I’m not worried about performance or weight reduction.

I bought a 2006 Xr650L as far as I can tell no Dave’s mod, snorkel removal or exhaust mods have been done. Just cosmetic upgrades. Handles bars, blinkers mirrors etc. which is why I’m nervous about modding the carburetor.

The bike has a uni foam filter installed, the smog gear is still attached and I believe the bike is running lean. I have decel pop. The bike also backfires when I rev the bike while in neutral and downshifting.

1. I bought a fritzco 15t sprocket and will install as soon as it’s delivered.

2. Like I said I believe the bike is running lean due to the uni foam filter being installed with the stock jets. I plan on resetting to 55/158 ( I’m at sea level, correct me if I’m wrong please) and if I’m already going to be rejetting should I just do Dave’s mod while I have the carb off? The website says Dave’s mod is for 93-04 Xr’s.. (I also saw someone say to only drill out one hole in the slide?) I will buy the kit off jets r us if that is a must do.

3. I do plan on removing the smog crap, I don’t believe it adds any benefit. But if it doesn’t have any negatives I will consider leaving it. I’m not worried about weight.

4. I read on jets r us that if you do Dave’s mod to remove the snorkel. And I’ve heard people talk about cutting the air box but have not seen pictures. Is this necessary? It seems to me like it would just allow more debris to get sucked up into the air filter. I am all for extending the bikes life but I have seen a lot of people say the bike was designed to run a certain way and I feel like once you open up Pandora’s box (excessive modding) you run the risk of running into more problems than the solutions you were looking for.

Side note: the owner switched to like a Crf headlight and I can’t see more than 15ft in front of me at night. I would like to return to the stock headlight assembly. If anyone has one for sale I would be happy to take it off your hands.

thank you for your time.

I have a bad habit of buying the wrong parts for my bike. Just bought a cheap carb off eBay, and a month later, the floats crapped out and dumped 5 gallons of gas in my garage… good times.

I’ve heard about the MIKUNI 40mm carb, but some people say it’ll mess up my engine. And whenever I look it up, it only shows up on eBay for 250cc bikes, so I’m pretty sure I’m looking at the wrong thing again.

If anyone can drop a link to a decent carb that’ll actually work for my bike, I’d really appreciate it. Thanks!

Searched a lot for this but can’t seem to find a simple answer.

I’d like to do the WPS taillight, license plate mount, and while I’m back there, add some LED signal indicators to replace the big stock units.

Will adding two LEDs in the back still necessitate an LED relay swap? Or will the system work as normal with two LED bulbs in back and two incandescent OEM signals in the front?

Thanks for any feedback.

I Recently pulled my 94 xr650L out of storage. I finally got to installing the aloop kit and I did a battery relocation. It still needs tires and new turn signals. But I’m loving how it’s looking so far. Just wanted to share. Thanks

Howdy fellow XR owners, I’ve got a few questions regarding dipstick readings that I was hoping someone could provide some me with some insight on. Per the proper procedures, I always check my oil level after going on a lengthy ride whilst the bike is still warm. If I kill bike as soon as I pull into my garage and pull the dipstick out, the oil tends to read closer to the low mark. However, if I let the bike sit for two or three minutes after turning it off and then check the levels, they tend to read a lot closer to full. Does it take a while for the oil to settle inside of the frame, and if so, is the reading I get after the bike has had a chance to sit the one that I should be going off of? I’m still trying to familiarize myself with the internal workings of this machine so any help is appreciated, thanks!

How many miles do you guys get from stock tires. I'm on about 2500 miles.

Was torquing the oil filter housing cap back on to 7ft lbs and it broke? How tf do i get this out?

I have a 2019 XR650L with 1600 miles on it. Today, my factory CDI box began to fail. The bike started stumbling and running rough, and then completely died. It restarted after sitting for a minute, then died again a half a mile down the road. Now looking at options, I see the Spectrum Moto box recommended in another post is currently out of stock. Has anyone experienced this issue after replacing their CDI with a brand new OEM unit?

Hey all, I’m looking to get the pig a temp reading dip stick as an anxiety reducing measure. I know Hemisphere Off-Road makes one that is compatible with an oversized tank but don’t feel like forking out $84. Does anyone know if this NICECNC one will fit with an oversized tank?