Starting to dig into my '93 XRL and looking for advice on what to do first. I know I need to do an oil change, rebuild and jet the carb, check the valves, adjust the throttle cables, and the cam chain tensioner and chain. After that I'll tackle all the greasing, breaks, and suspension items. If anyone has advice on what order to makes the most sense I would appreciate it!

Hi gang. Long time listener, first time caller.

Got a new 2024 XR650L and I am loving it!!

Just wanted to say she pulls amazing through all the gears. Bone stock. No deceleration “popping” or any dead zones once she warms up. Not saying I won’t be putting on an exhaust or jetting but I just wanted to report in that bone stock, she is a ripper!!

I just replaced my countershaft and put back together and everything seems to work fine. The crank arm spins freely and I can shift between the gears pretty smoothly. I went to fire it up the first time and I get a click and no cranking. The starter relay is clicking and the start motor isn't turning. I tried contacting the positive battery terminal to the positive terminal of the relay to force current to the starter motor but nothing happened. The wire is secured to the motor and there's no missing or unplugged wires. Per the manual it indicates this is a bad starter motor. However the starter motor only has 10k miles and 3.5 years on it. It seems that these things would last much longer. I just wanted to check on here before I tried buying another one or a relay. Any ideas would be helpful. Thanks.

Hey im trying to fix my motor after it dropped a valve seat in the cylinder 😬

I have bought a "new" used cylinder head from a friend and just discovered that i has a crack just next to the valve seat. Is it worth fixing the crack or should i buy a other used one? A used cylinderhead cost around 384€ on ebay.

I’m just doing a quick write up in case anyone runs into the same problem with their bike. Maybe they can learn from my stupidity.

Had what I found out in the end was an air leak, I thought I was just shit at tuning the carb and getting the idle screw right at first, but then after rejetting, and dialing everything in while home I would go for a ride and have my revs hang high after about 10-20 minutes on the road intermittently. It was on and off for a while and the only way to fix it seemed to be taking the carb off and putting it back on. I was about to redo all the vacuum lines on it when I finally realized while taking it off this time that the rubber boot from the airbox to the carb wasn’t seated right.

Turns out that the screw on the hose clamp that holds the airbox to carb boot in place had its threads stripped about ⅔ of the way along it, so I would take the carb off, put it back on and get it seated right, then it would get dislodged whenever I went for a ride because the hose clamp wasn’t able to tighten down enough.

That particular screw is an m4x25 if anyone was wondering, luckily I had a few lying around. I sprayed starter fluid around the carb while pushing every which way on the boot and didn’t hear any rev jumps, (tested vacuum lines the same way and same result) so hopefully that did it. Anyways time for a test ride, I’ll throw an update in the comments if it turns out I’m even more dumb and didn’t actually fix it.

Im new with my 2003 650L and i’ve been though some of the wiring its all looks good its just happened on a ride it was fine I went to kill it and stays on so I disconnected the battery to not kill it

Got a '93 XR650L and I'd like to lean more into woods riding but I don't want to lug around my big oversize tank. I would get a stock tank but I don't want to risk putting a big dent in it whenever I inevitably lay the bike down throughout my rides. Does anyone know of a near stock size plastic tank? Would love to not have to worry about a huge dent in the tank everytime I pick the bike up.

Coming up to a red light and shifting down, the bike won’t always let me shift down all the way back into first it’ll be in like third gear.

I’ve had this issue for a while with a new xr650l.

Today it finally occurred at a red light where I stalled twice before I realized that was the issue.

Any advice would help a lot thank you. I’m a new rider and love the bike but this is something that comes up as an issue every now and then.

Edit: thank you so much everyone for your input, I don’t have anyone around me to talk to so I appreciate it a lot.

I'm looking at a '93 with 20k miles for $2200. I believe it has atleast a topend rebuild, but I'll now how it runs on Monday. This looks like a newer sprocket can anyone ID it? How do you confirm the splines are intact without taking it off?

Too much snow on the roads for me to ride so as I sit and daydream about getting back on two wheels I had this thought.

Every time I see a post of people asking about what dual sport to get, the DR-Z400 and DR650 get thrown out as the first or most recommended options for them, and then the usual spattering of KTM, Husky, whatever, and even the KLR. Granted they are all great bikes in their own right, but You don’t see the XR get put out there as an option nearly as often.

It’s lighter than the DR650 and has better suspension. It is only 20lbs heavier than the new DR-Z, and like 30lbs more than the old one, but you can get the XR’s weight down and power up with a few of the easy recommended mods (battery relocation, Dave’s mod, smog delete, exhaust, etc.).

They all make around the same horsepower, but the XR seems to be slightly more highway capable than the DR-Z and a lot more trail capable than the DR or KLR while being nearly the same on road.

All have a good aftermarket, and although the XRs isn’t as expansive as the Suzukis, you can still find parts for almost anything you would want to do.

So what gives? Are people just not enlightened to the way of the BRP? Is it that it’s just a less popular bike because less were sold? Or do people just forget it exists.

Pontification in the comments welcomed, especially if it’s to tell me I’m dumb for overlooking something obvious.

How much weight do you carry in your tail bag? I know the sub frame is a weak point and don’t want to overload it. I just picked up a giant loop revelstoke bag and trying to figure out how to mount it and how much weight is safe back there. Looking to hold tools, spares, and 1 gallon fuel bag for day rides

Obligatory photo. Just installed Hyde racing skid plate that I really like. D606 and mt21 tires going on before the maiden off road voyage

I got a eBay carb . One day I started the bike and noticed gas was dumping out of the overflow on the carb . I was told the float might be stuck and to tap on it . The problem never got fixed so I rode the bike and noticed gas coming out the exhaust, I haven’t started the bike dive and changed the oil and there was literally like 2 gallons of gas inside the frame with the oil .

98’ with all the mods I wanted.

Started the old girl up and took her for a ride this morning. Unfortunately the cam chain / tensioner is making terrible sounds out of nowhere. It's not the end of the world, as the season is over and I somewhat wanted to pull the motor to inspect the valvetrain, cam for scoring, etc.

I've not done the job before but I've watched a couple of vids on it. Just wondering if anyone who's done the job before has any advice. Tricks, stuff to look out for, any "while youre in there" things to do or other things that are prone to failure, stuff like that. I will probably take my time and do it over the winter so if there's anything else worth doing with the motor pulled, I'd be open to it. Thanks in advance.

https://preview.redd.it/bdvenktxuozd1.jpg?width=1536&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=dc100ebbc8e4c057324ebcd8f6a049310258fa19

https://preview.redd.it/84q0tltxuozd1.jpg?width=1536&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=60ea9fb823bbf5dc5d427b451aa7ef5848ab9a70

Hello all! Looking for some help identifying this lowering link on my sumo converted 650. The person who owned the bike before me lowered it 3 inches overall. The bike is super low especially with me being 6'2''. I am trying to figure out what link this is and am not finding much online. It looks like it could be oem, but it has "KN5" stamped on it and I can not find a single link, OEM or otherwise, with that nomenclature. The sag adjustment is set as high as the rear can go and it still sits super low. I am starting to suspect that the subframe is chopped, which I really hope isn't the case. Anyone have any ideas on what link this could be?

Anyone know where to find new plastics for a 2002 XR650L? Or if any mount right up.

So I'm looking for some d-p and I'm trying to decide new or used. Im finding numerous 20 yo bikes around me for around 4k. some with nice upgrades, some with obvious issues that I'll be avoiding. I like the idea of buying new, no surprises, if I can locate one. So is a twenty year old xr650 an issue?

Sorry if this has been asked over and over.

Was changing tires today and noticed this on the rear wheel. Obviously not safe to throw back on, but I just wanted to get an opinion on the best option for fixing it.

The way I see it I have three choices:

1. Have the rim welded, not sure how strong it would be or even if it would be a good idea in this spot with it right on the bead, but probably the cheapest.
2. Replace just the rim, and the few spokes that are bent, and then true the wheel. I’ve never done that before but could probably figure it out. Seems to be the best option for me right now based on price and not having to worry about the strength of the rim.
3. Replace the whole wheel. Definitely pricey, and I don’t see a lot of options out there for it. But probably the easiest of the choices.

Any thoughts on the best road ahead?

For a conventional carb looks a little lean to me but this is my first Lectron so maybe normal not sure.

Bought my bike new two months ago. At first it seemed like it had a lot more pick up. Lots of unintentional wheelies. I’ve since put 1000 miles on it and it just seems like it’s gotten sluggish. Especially in second gear. Is this normal?

I want to make sure the bike is as reliable as possible and know the counter shaft sprocket is an issue so I replaced with a Fritzco. I also know the cdi as another weak point, my original cdi failed last year had no spark until I gave it a good wack. I seen a lot of comments online about the ignitech cdi so I ordered it from Spectrum and installed it. The bike fired right up and ran great. The problem is I can go to start it a week or to later and it doesn’t start, seems to have no spark. Then a week or to later it will start and run fine. It seems to only start when it wants to. So my question is what could be causing this? I was thinking maybe the pulse generator? All wiring looks good and safety switches seem good. Has anyone had trouble with the ignitech cdi? I have the bike put up for the season, have some other priorities to deal with, but was just looking for info for when I get it out in the spring if I can fix it myself which I’m no mechanic or I bring it in to be fixed. Any info is appreciated.