Also this is for my XC bike. I tried flipping a coin earlier and still couldn’t make my mind up. So I’m asking the Reddit lords and gods to decide my fate for me 🙏🚲 Right now I have a fox performance rear shock but it is blasted so bad from casing a jump really bad and I’m afraid it may cost more to service than to get a new one but I could be totally wrong💀

Being as you can barely get a trail bike in 66 HTA right now... And a lot of them are actually between 64.5 - 64, even for mid travel models...

Was wondering if there is a debate about how XC bikes for 'average users' should be designed? Or if everybody is more or less on board with XC bikes reaching into the ~66 HTA territory, among some other changes potentially.

Is there a dismissive narrative of 'buy an old XC or a new gravel bike instead'? Similar to how people seem to react if you lament the loss of short wheel base/steeper trail bikes.

Hi,

Does anyone have experience of Selcof products? I think they are Planet X’s own brand. Their carbon handlebars look good value, £40 for handlebars which weight 155g

https://planetx.co.uk/products/selcof-carbon-riser-handlebar

Looking to see what options exist for mounting a dynamo light to the arch/brace of a suspension fork. I'm currently building up a set of race wheels for bikepacking events, and am trying to avoid mounting the light on the handlebars for both practical and aesthetic reasons.

What, if any, mounting attachments or accessories exist for this? I'm using a SID Ultimate, for reference. Thanks!

Fellow tire nerds!

I've been subscribing to this site for a couple years now. It's probably the only database with test protocols out there that have some degree of reliability. Validity of the tests for actual mtb riding is limited as the tires are tested on a steel drum. At least the testing protocol is consistent and allows comparison between different tire pressures/casings/compounds/tread patterns.

As you all know, over the past years xc tire volume has increased with 30mm internal rims and ~2.4" tires. Consequently, tire pressures have dropped as well.

BRR does not account for that as the lowest pressure they will test is 25 psi/1.7 bar. This is probably on the very upper limit or even borderline overinflated for most xc racers on high volume tires.

A lot uf readers, and myself in an e-mail to BRR, pointed out that the useless highest data point of 55 psi/3.8 bar should be traded in for 15 psi/1.0 bar. A major benefit of this adjusted protocol would be a greatly increased data resolution at real world pressures. If you compare tires, you'll be able to determine a trend e.g. tire x is close to tire y in rolling resistance at all tested pressures, so I conclude that tire x is close to tire y at lower than tested pressures. This is not necessarily the case. At low pressures, the variation in casing losses due to hysterisis is exaggerated. In other words: At low pressures, two tires could diverge massively in their rolling resistance.

So as of now, chosing a tire with the intention of running it at say 17 psi is a good amount of guess work with the lowest tested pressure of 25 psi. As far as I can tell, BRR seems to ignore the suggested change in the protocol and I don't see why.

If they're concerned with reliability, there would still be data points like 25 psi/1.7 bar to compare tires tested before the adjusted protocol. Am I completely off the tracks here or do you see my concern?

Tl:dr: Why does bicycle rolling resistance still test mtb tires at 25 psi/1.7 bar as it's lowest pressure?

My First real Mtb coming from Road/Gravel Wanted something that is more forgiving on trails and Single Track. I just love how lifely it feels. Upgraded the chain Ring, Suspension Fork to an Sid Select and added a bikejoke divine sl dropper post to it to be fully ready :) Whats your thought on the Chisel? Also were is a Good Place to start to learn more About Proper riding techniques?:)

I’m doing the Lead Challenge next year so I’ll be racing the Silver Rush 50 and Leadville 100. I currently own a 2022 Top Fuel and the bikes got a bit of an identity crisis. Too heavy, no remote lockouts, and single bottle so not the best XC machine, but not enough travel when the going really gets rough.

I’m thinking about selling the Top Fuel and picking up either an Supercaliber or Epic 8. I’m leaning towards the Supercal but I’m worried that aside from Leadville it’ll be a bit too short on travel for other courses. Epic 8 seems to be raved about but geo is pretty much the same as the Top Fuel I’m thinking about ditching, though it likely be 3lbs lighter at least, two bottles, and still have in frame storage.

For general trail riding, my wife has a Trek Fuel 150/140 that’s my size so not too concerned about having one bike to do it all.

Any recs appreciated!

I’m wondering if picking up a 140/150 Trail bike to ride for fun/training would have a positive effect on my XC racing (still will race my super light 100mm Scott Spark).

See on Instagram he’s thanking Cannondale for the journey. Wonder what’s next for the champ?

On my XC bike, I am looking for some sort of product that limits the rotation of the handlebars when I crash. Basically, I am looking to run my bars with fewer spacers and more slammed for racing, but I have been reticent to go any lower because of the risk it poses to my frame when I crash.

Basically, if I go any lower, whenever I crash my dropper lever/AXS controllers scrape the absolute s*** out of my top tube as the handlebars rotate. Does anyone have a solution to prevent this from happening?

"Don't fall so much" does not seem to be an option, unfortunately...

Note: This is my first Reddit post, so if my etiquette is off in any way, please let me know and I'll fix it.

I'm currently working on my training plan for next season, aiming to structure it as specifically as possible. I'm hoping to get some feedback from others who might have faced similar challenges.

Background: I’m 43 and prepping for my 2025 season after recovering from a tough crash. In 2023, I raced the Little Sugar 100K with a decent time (around 6:29), but I had to skip 2024 due to the crash and family commitments. Now, I’m motivated for the 2025 race, as well as some other endurance events closer to home.

I was inspired by Pog’s recent interview with Peter Attia, where he discussed tailoring his interval lengths to match race demands. For example, I analyzed my 2023 Little Sugar data and found that most of my above-threshold efforts were in short bursts—5 to 20 seconds, with 12-17 seconds of recovery. I ended up doing hundreds (386 to be exact) of these :15 on, :15 off intervals throughout the race. So, I’m considering integrating this interval structure into my training plan.

I’d love feedback on a few questions for anyone who’s tried this approach:

1. Does it make sense to focus on these short intervals in 45-90 minute sessions, along with my usual 3-5 hours/week of Zone 2 rides? Fortunately, the terrain where I live is similar to Bentonville, so training should translate well to race conditions.
2. Should I incorporate more traditional intervals (e.g., 2x20 min at FTP, 6x4 min VO2)? If so, what balance has worked for you?
3. Since I’ve added weight training as I’ve aged, should I use a similar 15/15 approach there (e.g., squats for 15 seconds, rest for 15 seconds)?
4. For seasoned endurance racers, what strategies have worked for you as life and family commitments evolve? I used to focus heavily on road cycling (I've always been OK enough technically so I got away with it), but I’m looking for insights from others balancing racing with other priorities.

Roadie here looking to get into some mtb-ing and looking for some input. If it were road or even gravel bikes I have a lot more knowledge and know what I'm looking for/want, but with mountain bikes and don't really know any of that. Leaning towards a XC/"Down-country" bike. Coming from road bikes still want something light and fast. Looking to keep it under $2k USD. Hoping to avoid the super basic builds I'd "grow out of", but not opposed to something I could maybe upgrade a bit here and there. Also, around that price point because I have an All-City road bike I'm selling and think I can get around $1800 for it. So I've found 10 different bikes (mostly used) I'm considering.

• 2021 Specialized Epic Hardtail Comp - Asking $1650
  • Shimano SLX build
  • Reba Fork 100m
  • Dropper Post Added
  • Potential Highlight compared to other in the list? - Superlight Frame and included Dropper
• 2022(?) Cervelo ZHT-5 - Asking $1700
  • Sram GX Build
  • SID Select Fork 100mm
  • Potential Highlight compared to other in the list? - Superlight frame & SID Fork.
• (New) Superior XP 929 - ~$1350 (incl. Tax & Shipping)
  • Shimano Deore 12sp
  • Recon Silver 100mm
  • Not internal dropper compatible
  • Potential Highlight compared to other in the list? - Cheapest & New
• 2022 Trek Procaliber 9.6 (Gen 2) - Asking $1800
  • Shimano XT Build
  • Recon Gold Fork 110mm
  • Potential Highlight compared to other in the list? -Higher tier Groupset
• 2021 Santa Cruz Highball - Asking $1900
  • Sram NX Build
  • Fox 32 Performance Fork 100mm
  • Potential Highlight compared to other in the list? - Slacker geometry (maybe?)
• 2022(?) Santa Cruz Highball - Asking $2000
  • Shimano XT build
  • SID Select+ Fork 100mm
  • From the photos looks a bit more "used" that the one above.
  • Potential Highlight compared to other in the list? - Slacker Geo (maybe), higher tier groupset & Fork
• (New) Polygon Syncline C5 - ~$1600 (incl. Tax & Shipping)
  • Shimano SLX
  • Fox Rhythm 120mm
  • Not internal dropper compatible
  • Potential Highlight compared to other in the list? - Price & New
• 2021 Yeti Arc - Asking $2200
  • GX Build
  • Fox Performance Fork 130mm(?)
  • Dropper Installed
  • Potential Highlight compared to other in the list? - Most "rugged" + included dropper
• Orbea Oiz H20 - Asking $1850
  • Shimano Deore Build
  • Fox Rhythm 32 100mm(?)
  • Dropper Installed
  • Potential Highlight compared to other in the list? - Full Sus
• 2021 Intense 951 XC - Asking $1750 - Also Available as a "Used/Refurbished" New direct from Intense, but with shipping and tax becomes about $2200
  • Sram NX build
  • Fox Rhythm 34 Fork 120mm
  • Dropper Installed
  • Potential Highlight compared to other in the list? - Full Sus & (potentially) "new"

From what I understand, the Epic, ZHT, Superior, and Procaliber are the most aggressive and very much XC race bikes with (relatively) steep head tube angles. I've seen some people complain the ZHT geometry is pretty dated and not "modern" though at the same time it doesn't look that different from the Epic and Procaliber. Any reviews I find of it really liked it. The Highball a bit slacker geometry, but probably still what people would call a race bike. Then the Arc (although stretching my price range there) & Syncline, the most "Trail" (or maybe "down-country") like, slacker and with longer travel forks. Then there is the two Full Sus bikes the Oiz and 951 XC. Both pretty basic components (though the 951 is a carbon frame still) whereas the hardtails are, as expected at the price point, spec'd with a bit nicer components.

Anything above standout as a "get/avoid that one"? Am I just in a case of "you can't really go wrong here"?

Also, as more of a general question, can you update fork travels relatively easily on a frame? I don't mean a crazy amount, but for example on the "aggressive" 100mm Cervelo ZHT, could you go to a 120mm fork for a bit more travel and slightly slacker angles without issue? Or the opposite, on the Arc go from 130mm down to 120mm or 110mm?

Just wondering how Flight attendant is working for the racers out there? Are you happy with it? Do you miss your manual lockouts at all? Any problems or issues?

I do a few races each year but I ride road gravel or xc everyday of the week all year. Not really in podium contention but I'm enthusiastic and competitive in nature. I'm also fortunate enough to be in a position to buy an Orbea Oiz M-Pro in my size. Part of my interest in going full sus is that I want to do longer races, I'm not getting younger and I frequently crash (hoping the extra suspension can help a little). I don't want a bike that feels sluggish compared to my very lively Giant XTC aluminum hardtail and I don't want to spend thousands chasing a difference that I'll struggle to notice. So I'm asking, is it a significant performance upgrade? Can the Oiz replace a hardtail (selling to help finance)? Many thanks in advance.

So I am looking at a lot of bikes I live in Denmark I have tried a cervelo zfs-5 with a 100 rear and 120 front suspension setup and I loved it I have a supercaliber gen one and am a competitive racer top 5 in Denmark I do have a pro caliber gen 1 sl they are great but I find them very limiting when descending and there are no proper hills in Denmark so lightweight hardtails are nice but I do not want an xc frame that is above 2000 grams(has to be full sus) supercaliber weighs 2200 with axle and udh

Can you put an 120 35 mil the sid s tantion fork on a gen two supercaliber

So I am planning to race with a Rekon Race 2.25 front and Aspen ST 2.25 (120tpi) rear.

How are the experiences with the Aspen ST for now ? Especially in terms of wear ?

I am hoping to hear from riders with experience using the Manitou R8 Pro fork. I would particularly like to know how it compares to the RockShox Sid ultimate and the Fox 32 Factory Stepcast.

Fellow XC riders, what do you like to wear to keep your legs warm on wet and cold trail rides?

Usually doesnt get below freezing here, but a splash of water and slightly above freezing temps are usually enough to make everything from my hips downwards cold after a while, so what do you do to keep warm?

2018 Specialized Epic Comp. Mods: Roval Control Carbon wheelset, Sworks Fast Trak (F) and Rekon Race (R) both in 29x2.35. 100mm Giant stem (stock was 90mm). 32T chain ring (stock was 30T). Thomson seat post. Future mods: maybe remove rear Brain, carbon bars.

Anyone have experience with epic 8 verse exie? currently on a ranger looking for something a bit more xc racer type. I like the fact that exie has the dw link verse the flex stays, wondering if it really makes a difference especially in needing a lock out? exie is shorter WB wondering how that effect flat turning?

any insight on both bikes would be greatly appreciated thanks

So if you had a Maxxis Rekon Race and an Sworks Fast Trak both in 29x2.35 what way around would you fit them? (as in Front and Rear).

I did have Rekon's F&R and only 1 ride old but found the Sworks real cheap and thought hey why not experiment and see how it performs. Have read about them so know about the thin side wall but keen to see how it rolls and if the lighter weight of them is noticeable.

Full disclosure I already have the Sworks (arrived in post today) and have fitted to the front as its easiest to change and I'm riding early tomorrow morning. Depending on opinions I'll probably swap them around before the next ride after tomorrow to see how it compares back to back. Perhaps I'll just want to go back to RR's all round.

Bike is a Spec. Epic.

Thanks 🍻