Photograph via snooOG

Welcome to Weaving. WEAVING!

For discussion regarding weaving, looms, weaving drafts, and um. related subject matter.

Welcome to Weaving. WEAVING!

I've no idea what I'm doing, but I'm pretty sure reddit needs more weaving. Pretty sure.

Keen on basket weaving? Pop on over to /r/Basketry! They'll hook you up. We mostly deal in string and frustration here.


  1. All posts must be directly related to weaving. Your post must be related directly to the craft of weaving. Fibers are preferred, but other mediums are welcome

  2. Self-Promotion is limited to the pinned Self-Promotion thread. All other comments/posts are subject to deletion.

  3. Project posts must be the original work of the poster. Bots, karma-theft, and other stolen works will be deleted. Please report posts that violate this rule.


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Carpet update, warping, tension, and spacing. YIKES.

Greetings everyone

Just wanted to post a quick update on my carpet project! It’s been a busy couple of weeks, but I believe I’ve been able to warp my loom in a way that I’m kinda happy with.

Using a warping board, I created sheaves of warp that were then fit directly onto the warping bars which sit in a notched-groove beveled into the cloth beams. You can actually see this in the photo - the bottom cloth beam is positioned so that the notch and bar are visible. I still have some issues with uneven tension and I have a few ideas of how I might remedy this in the future. In a previous post, I linked a view videos of weavers in Turkey warping and dressing a large floor loom similar to the my own. In the video, the weavers can be seen creating the warp in one long, continuous sheave around two verticals poles.

I’ve thought about creating a similar apparatus, where I could vertically position the two iron rods around two individual bases. I could separate the bases (in which the rods are secured) are space them to the vertical specs of the textile. I’d then warp around the two posts in a figure 8, and perhaps running a line of crochet across the top and bottom of the warp to keep the warp threads organized and separate. The two rods could then be removed from the bases and affixed into their notches. Idk, I don’t think it would be tooo tricky to figure out. Perhaps it could help.

Anyway…..the sheaves were fit onto the rods, which were placed into the cloth bars. The top was rolled up (as evenly as possible lol) and the bottom rod was fit in place before the bottom cloth beam was tensioned down.

I’ve begun the process of weaving a header and organizing the threads. I’m planning on weaving an inch of header using the same weft as the warp. Aside from pics of plain weaving, there will be at least one row of soumak, where weft essentially wraps around and separates the warps.

I’m still early into weaving the header, but I’m hoping I’m able to space things out MUCH better than this. lol send me good vibes.

Once the header is woven and thing feel separated and spaced properly, Ill proceed to stringing the heddles.

I’m sure I’m making loads of mistakes, but I’m still loving every minute of this.

22:46 UTC


Interested in a 4 heddle or whatever they're called

Hi there. I still consider myself a new weaver I have the 24" Regid heddle and find it's great for larger items but really looking for something I can make more designs with. And more like scarf towel size.

This one above caught my eye but no idea how to work anything but a regid heddle. Really need some insight as I am a touch overwhelmed and never make a decision

15:01 UTC


Getting a Glimarka Pysslingen ready - Texsolv heddles

Hi Everyone. I won this loom at the MDSW auction last year and just got it home this year. I've been cleaning it and getting it ready to weave. This loom is the predecessor of the Glimarka Victoria. It came with Texsolv heddles already installed, which I've been removing and washing. It's getting a bit of a glow up with springs on the harnesses instead of rubber bands.

This is my first 4 harness loom. I've used a rigid heddle and inkle looms in the past.

Do the Texsolv heddles go on so that the eye is turned sideways facing the sides of the loom or twisted so the eye faces flat toward the weaver?

Thanks for you help

04:18 UTC


And here's the whole outfit completed

23:12 UTC


Hemming woven towels

I finally bought a new (to me) sewing machine with the intention of hemming my stash towels I’ve been cranking out. At this point, sewing feels harder than weaving! 🙃 Can someone please recommend a thread type/weight/??? that would be appropriate for 8/2 cotton plain weave at 18 epi? I’m confused by all the options.

01:57 UTC


Can't loosen my tension

I have a schacht inkle loom. I'm very new to this and have only made one 2' band. I'm currently working on my second and the tension wasn't tight enough so the band was moving as i beat. I tried to loosen the knob,know, using the rubber handles of my can opener as a lever, rocking it forward and backwards but it just will not budge. Is there a trick other than waiting for my husband to come home and rescue me? Can I spray it with lube without damaging it?

It did feel quite tight for the first bad but I assumed it would loosen up with use, not get worse.

22:55 UTC


I want to buy a rigid heddle loom

But I have to ask some questions first. English is not my first language, so please be understanding.

From what I've seen available in Poland, Kromski's Harp rigid heddle loom looks the best for me. It comes with a size 8 heddle and I could buy a size 10 or 12 later. It's quite a lot of money for me, so I have to choose well.

What can you make with a size 8 heddle? What size of yarn is the best for each size of the heddle? I am most interested in making towels and linens (to make canvases, I am a painter), so I will probably buy size 12 heddle too.

From what I researched, there is only one store in Poland that supplies weaving yarn, but they only have 16/2, 8/2 and 12/6 cotton yarn. I could probably get 8/4 from Germany though. What will be the best for size 8 heddle? I will appreciate all advice!

I can't buy a shaft loom because it's completely out of my budget and I don't have that much space for storage. The rigid heddle loom is a compromise I'm making with myself, since I caught the weaving bug and I can't think about anything else right now.

16:49 UTC


Help identifying half assembled loom

Hey everyone! I'm hoping to pick this loom up tomorrow and need some help finding the brand/model. I'd love to restore it to working order and put it to good use soon!

06:20 UTC


I'm a newbie about to jump off a cliff...

Hi fiber friends. So, I spontaneously got the weaving bug. I've been knitting pretty heavily for about the past 7 years, and I've made a few handspun yarns. So fiber is not foreign to me.

Here's where I'm at, mostly just looking for confirmation that I'm not making a huge mistake or missing something.

  • I want to make scarves or other smaller projects like towels, small tote bags, snack mats, etc.
  • I want something that could be considered a lap loom, if a bit on the larger side. Think 12-18" (I think 20" would be pushing it.)
  • I'm pretty sure I want 2 heddles.
  • I will probably want to try weaving twill/diamond twill at some point.
  • I'll be using up some of my knitting stash and leftovers. Mostly Fingering or DK weight, multiple plies, most of them superwash merino/nylon blends.
  • I'm a bit of a tinkered by nature, so fiddliness doesn't bother me. Not afraid of things like pickup sticks or heddle rod combos)

Considering the size and depth of my options, I'm about to pull the trigger on an Ashford 16" SampleIt loom. I like the somewhat shorter depth for lap weaving.

Based on this;

  1. Am I out of my mind? Is the SampleIt too short to do things like twill comfortably? (This isn't a deal breaker but I want to know)

  2. Can I comfortably get away with a 10- dent heddle for both DK and Sock warps? Or should I pick up a 10 and a 12?

  3. Is there a warp yarn you would recommend? Should I buy some cotton for extra durability? If so, what should I get for a roughly balanced weave?

All advice welcome and appreciated, thanks for taking the time to read this.

01:01 UTC


1950something Leclerc Fanny-related questions...

I feel like this is almost a meme at this point, because I've lurked here for some months and see situations like mine come up pretty regularly but:

I inherited a floor loom and I'd like to actually learn to use it. It came to me in this condition (pictured, that warp is approximately 40 years old), and I suspect there's something wrong with the loom.

If you look, the first set of bars connected to the pulleys are higher on the left side than the right, and the shafts aren't at the same resting point. There's several youtube content creators with this loom or with the loom that came out after it (thanks to the r/weaving wiki I was able to figure out that this is the early 1950s loom based on the braking system).

I suspect that I need to order new cording for the pulleys from our friends at LeClerc; it appears that they still make replacement cords for these looms. But I also don't want to sound like a fool if this is not the case.

I appreciate all of your input. I have reached out to the local weaver's guild here in Memphis, but it's been like two weeks and they haven't responded soooo here's hoping, I guess.

I basically moved it into my house and recently let the back bar back (Fannys fold up), otherwise it came to me exactly as you see.

15:51 UTC


Three-shaft Huck Lace on RH

Draft from 'Weaving on 3 shafts' (Erica de Ruiter). Hand dyed Merino warp (Madrigal Yarns) and loop mohair weft (TheWeavingShedUK). Set at 12.5 EPI.

1 Comment
21:36 UTC


Difficulty level of learning Hattersley Loom

I'm looking for a job currently and I live in Ireland near a business famous for weaving tweed that is looking for someone to run a Hattersley loom.

It says full training will be provided as obviously very few people are experienced in these machines, but it also says the person needs to be 'mechanically minded' which is understandable as from the small bit of research I did it seems these looms need a fair bit of maintenance and are very 'fiddly' (Irish technical term). I've also read that working on these is on the one hand very monotonous but at the same time you have to be very attentive at all times to make sure things aren't going wrong. So I imagine the hours wouldn't pass by especially quickly, and also the looms are quite loud.

If I'm honest, 'mechanically minded' is not how I would describe myself. My degree is in fine art (hence the unemployment) but I like making things by hand, have done factory work where I ran assembly machines, also did screen printing and ran etching presses in college and would be interested in making the fabrics which are really beautiful, and in playing a small part in keeping this traditional process alive. But I don't have any experience in this area, my artwork is all drawing/painting/printmaking.

So if anyone has any input into how difficult it would be to learn this process or if this is the kind of job that would just be pure torture due to the repetitive nature, let me know the story.


19:45 UTC


Warping disaster again

I have an old weavemaster 4-shaft table loom, which I restored carefully last year. Warping this thing is a pain in the arse, and as of fifteen minutes ago I have a 50:50 success rate at getting a warp on it. When I can warp it, it's fine for weaving on (though not as nice as the louet I got to work on at a retreat last week). I've always warped back to front, based on books and videos I've watched. It works every time on my RHL but is not working well on my table loom, ending in a tangled mess and cutting off in despair this evening. My question is, can I warp front to back on a table loom? If so, can anyone point me at instructions or a video, please? The only ones I've found are for back to front...

18:30 UTC


What's this tool called?

Hello, I started weaving literally a week ago, on a small look barely bigger than my palm. I've come across this photo and thought this looks like a very useful tool but I can't find what's it called? I wonder if it can be DIY'd somehow since the one from the photo is far too big for my small loom

14:17 UTC


Jane Stafford School of Weaving

Does anyone here have membership to the Jane Stafford's online guild? I'm new to floor weaving and I was thinking about getting a membership to her online school. It's $99/year. In was just wondering how intensive and informative it is. I'm having trouble with warping, so I was looking for something that was pretty in depth. Is it worth it?

02:25 UTC


Finished some towels that over a hundred people helped with.

A couple of weeks ago my weaving and spinning group did a demonstration out at a Pioneer day. I warped up my table loom and let a lot of people try their hand at weaving. I love that so many people were involved in their creation and I got to share my enthusiasm of this craft with them.

02:04 UTC


Double weave on RHL - yarn or technique pointers?

Hey all, tried double weaving tonight on my RHL (Ashford 24", 7.5 dpi reeds) after watching the Casanova video. I did OK - it has two layers, joined in the middle! But I missed a bunch of warp threads on the bottom layer and had some other issues.

Used acrylic in my test which isn't great tension to begin with. Shouldn't have used worsted weight because I can't see down into the bottom sheds. Guess I could sit on the floor with a flashlight or move the shuttle only three or four threads at a time so I don't skip warps, but this would be so time consuming I'm wondering if anybody has better suggestions. Seems like a DK or even a heavy fingering might be better, although of course that's going to result in a pretty loose weave in a 7.5 dpi.

Could use some pointers on how to deal with small sheds in this generally. Thanks in advance for any help!

05:15 UTC


Sites in Scotland for a weaver

Hello weaving community! I am gearing up for a trip to Scotland next month with my mother who is a weaver, knitter, and all-around textile enthusiast. I would love to bring her to a mill, sheep farm, or anywhere else that aligns with that world and am curious a if anyone here has any recommendations. We will be spending most of our time in Plockton (western Highlands), Skye, Glasgow, and Edinburgh and will be driving to/from Plockton/Glasgow and could potentially set our route based on any sites of interest. I appreciate any input that you may have!

21:14 UTC


Quick Question About Reeds/Raddles

Just a quick question! I have a floor loom and bought a used reed and raddle that is 22” for my 36” loom. They’ve been great so far, but I want to do wider projects now that I’m more comfortable.

The question: is there any reason to not just go and buy a 36” reed and raddle? Ive only been weaving for about 6 months (so still relatively new) so I'm afraid maybe there a reason to not want a reed that’s too much wider than whatever project you are working on.

Thank you!

14:58 UTC


Ashford standard bra sampleit looms?

I'm currently looking into buying my own loom. I was wondering if there was any major differences between Ashford's standard loom and the sample-it? I can't seem to find any noticeable ones other than the Sample-it being at least €100 cheaper.

I've been working on a sample-it in college for the past year and I absolutely lovely but at the same time this will be an investment piece. If the extra €100 is worth it, I'm okay with that

08:17 UTC


Tips and tricks for warping your Schacht floor loom

I've warped a Wolf Pup before but recently purchased a new-to-me wide model high castle Schacht floor loom. (It's 35+ years old, in case that changes anything about its build/specificities.)

How do you make threading heddles and sleying your reed easier on your back and eyes? What are those bits of advice that really make a difference to someone just learning how to best go about the work on this type of loom?

I'm especially curious what you sit on, where you sit, whether you prop your loom up or use a very low stool. Do you do something quirky like sit inside of your back beam or do you reach over? Any other special methods for making the process easier on the body?

Mine came with the Schacht bench (also perfect for spinning on my secondhand Matchless) but I'm wondering what set-up works best for experienced weavers with this specific loom. We used a tiny rolling chair in weaving class, like you'd find in front of a bench in someone's workshop, and used a footstool with the loom propped onto plastic bed risers for sleying.

I'm especially trying to be kind to a bad hip and tetchy back.

Thanks in advance!

02:01 UTC



For those of you who regularly sell woven products what do you sell and is it worth the labor? Currently I’m making tapestry art pieces. I love the idea of making scarves too but what do you during the summer? I’ve poked around learning to do pillows or purses. I’m just wondering what’s really profitable or sellable with the amount of work that goes into to them. Thanks for any insight shared!

17:54 UTC


My first loom! Advice for learning to tie up/dress?


I am so excited to finally own my first loom! It is a Glimakra Standard Countermarche, 4 harness (converted to 8) with a 54" weaving width. I am hoping to get my craft room rearrange to make room for it.

My question is, does anyone have any suggestions for learning to tie up/dress this loom? I have the book Tying up the Countermarche loom but as a visual learner, the sparse diagrams are a challenge for me. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Thank you!

16:10 UTC


Tablet weaving question

I'm still fairly new to tablet weaving, only recently discovering the magic that comes from turning sections of cards in opposite directions to form more elaborate designs. I have my eye on a pattern that will have many turns in the same direction (on the selvages), and I know this will cause a huge amount of twist in the threads. I'm wondering if there is a better way to deal with this.

With balanced turns I work on an inkle loom. I can see already that this won't be practical for this design because of the need to untwist the selvage threads. I've considered starting the piece on the inkle, then when the twist becomes impractical trying to transfer it to a different setup.

For instance, I have a small quilting frame consisting of large dowel rods that are split for most of their length, held in place by side bars with wing nuts. It looks like I could put the finished weave on the front bar and use the split in the back bar to steady the waiting threads and give them a chance to untwist as I advance the piece.

I've also seen discussion here about using weights to secure the threads and allow them to freely twist as the work advances, and it may work with keeping most of the weave still on the inkle. But how heavy should they be? Is there a geometry for the weights that seems to work better in this application? Am I overthinking this?

You advice will be very appreciated.

14:07 UTC

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