/r/volt
Chevy Volt news and discussion
Chevy Volt news and discussion.
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Posts asking about charging costs must include specifics such as electric miles driven and electricity cost (preferably currency-per-kWh)
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/r/volt
I’m looking for a PHEV for my son. I see a lot of used Volts on AutoTrader and the prices seem unbelievably low.
What are some things I should look for to make sure I get a good one?
I’ve had a Wrangler 4xe, a Model 3, and currently drive a Model X. Because he’s going to college soon, and won’t necessarily have the chance to plug in every night, I like the idea of a PHEV.
Any direction/advice is appreciated.
Thanks!
Just bought a 2015 volt with 30k miles on it from a small dealer here in Oregon. What state and/or federal rebates can I get? I didn’t get anything at the time of purchase btw)
2014 Volt 190,000 miles for $2900 has cracked windshield and bad O2 sensors
thinking of buying this car. But I've read that the battery goes bad after 10 to 12 years
will this car still run with a bad battery?
Also read some posts that state one needs to buy a software license and tool to get the HV battery to work again. When/why does this occur?
We've had our 2015 Volt for 2 years and for the most part, it's been great. But we've noticed something about the battery and the ERDDT light.this winter. The car currently has a bit over 178,000 miles.
The first year during the winter, we were getting about 27-30 miles on a full overnight charge in weather below 32 degrees. (during the warm months we'd get about 40). This year, the most we're getting is 22, it's usually more around 19-21 (during summer it's about 33). We drive the car the exact same way as we did last year. Also noticed that we get the ERDDT almost every day the temp is below 40. Last year? The light only appeared a few times, and almost all of those times it was bitterly cold, in the single digits.
Is this drop is range and performance something to be alarmed about? Or is this just normal behavior for a car of this age and mileage?
i can get a good deal for a 2013 volt, good interior, well taken care of, with 100k miles.
the owner said the tranmsions mounts need to get replaced, pretty sure i can get the mounts for less than 500, just the labor cost to take it to a designated chevy dealer. since this is a discontinued car, not all dealerships or mechanics able to work on these.
i test drove it today and everything looks good. but one thing and one things only, as soon as the car started. the engine was rumbling harder than normal, how do i know? i came in a chevy volt to test drive a chevy volt.
he kept insisting its mounts, but the sound sounded scary
when i accelerated, no noise, but as soon as i decelerated the car , it would shruddle and rumble.
im not sure what it could be,
another thing, as i was leaving the car meet, i smelt oil but i wasnt able to smell if it was the volts oil or any cars around, since there was alot of surrounding cars.
the oil was like a dead oil smell. if anyone knows, thank you!
I'm trying to figure out how to put this pup in my 2017 Volt and it just ain't gonna happen, unless there's some surgery that I need to do first. Is this the correct part from VoltShop?
It's too fat for the space that's there.
It also came in a square box which meant it was rolled. Didn't much care for that, but whatever. If it fit I wouldn't be asking.
Update -- just got word from Stephen at VoltShop. They sent a Gen 1 screen, are sending out a Gen 2 on the double to me. Didn't take them an hour to get back to me. Love working with small companies.
2018 Volt LT. Purchased in the summer. For the entire winter where I live it will be cold. The engine runs constantly with a message about cold weather on the dash. Is there a way to disable this ? I don't like the idea of the engine just firing up when it's -30 out for a 20 minute commute. I bought the damn thing to avoid fuel usage for my short commutes but had no idea it would be running the engine for 4 months out of the year every time I go near it.
I can’t find right rear air bag sensor I have a code for it but can’t find it, doesn’t appear to be inside the door from what I can see
I'm selling my white 2014 Chevrolet Volt with 117k miles for $8k or best offer after the tax credit using keysavvy. If you have SCE, you can get $1k or $4k back from them as well depending on your income. I'm located in the Los Angeles / Orange County, California area.
I'm still able to get around 40 miles of electric range (upwards of 44 in the summer) so the battery is still healthy!
The hatchback was great for being able to carry large items. It includes the wall plug EV charger so you can plug and charge your car in a normal outlet at home, and I bought a spare tire which is shown in the trunk. I also made a trunk cover with a piece of fabric so that way the contents of your trunk are hidden, and there is a backup camera installed to the car as well!
We switched to a full electric car which is the only reason why we're selling our Volt now. It was a great gateway/intro to electric cars to see if we wanted to switch to a full electric vehicle, since it can still use gas.
The car has a clean title. One of the tires doesn't show the PSI so one of the TPMS (tire sensor) needs to be replaced, but it was never a big deal to me to know the exact tire pressure so I never got around to changing it. Other than that there are no issues with the car and it runs great with a healthy EV battery.
I don’t know how to interpret this data…
Hi all, had my volt for almost 4 years and I've loved it. Recently I had the charger wiring harness go bad and had it replaced under warranty, and needed a new 12v battery in the process. After getting it back from the shop I've been unable to get the total power usage to come back, and the left and right sides of the dash are blank. Has anyone encountered this before or knows what to do? I've spent an hour goofing and searching this sub and I've gotten absolutely nowhere.
So was happily cruising down the road in my 2017 Volt with 107k miles. And suddenly the Check Engine light came on together with Propulsion Power Reduced. But I'm a quarter through a two day road trip.
Is it feasible to make it to my destination and roll the dice on the service department having an EGR valve? Or should I stop at the nearest dealer with a Volt tech, drop it for the two weeks of Christmas and rent a car, or some other option?
I just bought my first car and it's a used 2016 volt. The car has everything other than adaptive cruise control. It has been super fun to drive! It has a few things I want to get checked out at my local Chevy dealership like getting the most updated software, Android auto, and fixing the front left tire pressure sensor. Is there anything else I should get checked out?
My 2013 Volt is dead, according to my local Chevy dealer. It won't charge and even after a code reset, it drove 15 feet and died. They say the battery cells are too far gone and need to be replaced. They were replaced just 4 years ago. They are basing their assessment on the error code POAFA. Does anyone have experience with this? Are there other options besides a full battery system replacement? Thank you
Had my first visit after buying a used 2017 premier - only 60k miles on it. Brought it to the same dealership that used to see it to get the report on work done and also get brakes checked because it was due.
I asked for an overall check and it was $200ish + $45 for brake check. I thought “fine” I’ll pay to get peace of mind and the report (which showed the BECM replacement that was not on Carfax “yay”!
Now after an hour they called me an said the technician said everything was good, brake pads were still 7-8mm (never replaced) and they recommended:
All that for about $500 on top of the $250…. I clearly said no, but what really made me wonder about dealership service center since:
Is it common practice to try to charge to replace everything after 9months just because you happen to come for service? Most of these replacement will cost me $60 max total and 20 minute of my time. The only one I don’t k ow about is that engine fluid treatment… I never saw it done on the carfax or maintenance report.
Anyone here replaced the transmission fluid cooler inlet pipe? I noticed a leak under my 2017 Volt, and at first thought it was an oil leak. Turns out it is leaking from a small crack/hole in the rubber part of the transmission inlet pipe.
Leaking from the rubber part of this pipe
I've got it wrapped, which has stopped the leak for now, but I do want to replace the pipe. It is about $40, but according to the service manual, you need a special disconnect tool: 41623-B.
That tool is very expensive ($100+). Anyone know if I can use a standard kit from an auto parts store for this disconnect?
https://youtu.be/ecnQvl0lX94 My car has the same problem can anyone help me out with this in this video he mentioned that we can use the car there will be no problem but still wanna know is it ok
I took my 2017 in for BECM codes/symptoms around 11 AM on Wednesday. It was done by noon today. Cost me zero dollars, full warranty coverage.
Massive kudos to Big Bill Hell’s (Bob Bell) Chevrolet in Baltimore.
My check engine light came on Sunday but it seemed to be driving fine. Mechanic wanted $225 to even look at it so I took it to O'Rileys to get the codes read. The lady said the PCM was the most pressing and that I should get to a mechanic asap. When I turned my car back on, the light was off again.
Should I still take it in or could this have been a weird glitch?
Does anyone know anyone or any auto parts store that has one? I have searched all over and cant find one for a reasonable price. Any recommendations?
I have a 2017 Volt with about 60k miles. EGR valve failed; after months of waiting, part is finally here. Mechanic will charge $3500 to replace (Portland OR). Over the past 2 weeks, battery performance has noticeably degraded. Won't charge as fully, and charge drops much faster than actual miles driven. Had the dealer check it out and they said the battery is fine. Clearly it is not, as the performance has changed noticeably after driving the car 4+ years. Wondering if I should spend the money to replace the EGR? Battery replacement would be another $6k and I don't think the car is worth nearly $10k in repairs. Wondering if I should try to trade it in now and get into another used hybrid/EV or replace the EGR and cross my fingers the battery will hold up. Would welcome your input
Seasoned Volt pro as I’ve had my 2018 Gen 2 since 2020. I went through once becm failure around 80k miles and now I’m having issues again. At 115k miles now and while my wife went to pick up our kids from school, she didn’t see that she was in engine mode the whole time down there. Then on the way back she saw the check engine light on and felt the car jerking. She drove it home and parked it in the garage. I saw that it still had the full charge from last night, smelled funny and the shift to park issue. Car will start up but alas, the shit to park. I’m aware of some posts on here mentioning just changing out the shift mechanism. Ok wondering if that’s all I need to do here or if I’m SOL. Any insight or advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks
Oh also: it will not charge and has the Message “Cannot charge”
Anyone prefer the 1st Gen over 2? Lookswise I like the 1 better and it’s supposed to be more “overbuilt”
My 2013 Chevy volt was working fine until this past month when the yellow light would turn on when plugged in, wait 5 seconds then turn off.
I figured it might be the charger, but nope the charger worked on a friends car, and my mom’s rig, I even went and tested it on a public charger and got the same issue of yellow light. There are no error codes, the car does produce battery if put on mountain mode.
I went through the trouble of getting and installing a new charging port, but no luck so bye bye 117$.
Any advice? I’m not someone who likes taking my rig to dealerships, I don’t mind working on it myself I just genuinely don’t know what I need to replace or fix.
Any advice is much appreciated
Over the last month or so I've noticed my 2015 Volt occasionally beeping outside my home as charging gets interrupted. I do sometimes have to wiggle my charger to get charging to start, and I've even had the anti-theft alarm go off at random (neighbors don't like that).
How can I tell whether I just need to buy a new aftermarket charger, or whether I need to change out the charge port? Upon visual inspection, both look fine.