The advantages of having a three piece take down longbow, 3d tournaments on the motorcycle 🏹

Came across this picture of a neat bow shape -

https://www.greekboston.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/artemis-scaled.jpg

I really like the double arc design of it. It looks to me like it would be either an upsized Scythian or just a regular plain recurve? 🤷🏻‍♂️

Hey all. You’ve probably seen this question a million times but I’m currently looking to get into traditional archery. I’m looking into three different bows right now (I’ll link them below). The Cairn 62” takedown by 3RiversArchery, the Hoyt Tiburon 64” & the Galaxy Sage 64” by Lancaster Archery.

I’ve been able to find a lot of reviews about each individual bow, but I’m wondering if anyone knows enough about all 3 to kind of give me the pro’s and con’s of each. Right now I’d say I’m leaning very heavily towards the Hoyt. Also what is an ideal weight to start with? I’m 30 years old, pretty in shape. I lift and workout daily. I don’t wanna go too light, I want a bit of a challenge. But I also don’t want to go too heavy because I’d really like to be able to hone in my form without getting overly tired.

Cairn: https://www.3riversarchery.com/cairn-recurve.html?variant_id=1351760&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAAD_uBCj7ckuoqPm94g-t8XFY3jZzx&gclid=Cj0KCQiAwOe8BhCCARIsAGKeD55JnFARVRhJZQkvxgJUHCY7iHCsxFKjwso7yDqsAw45bpvQh_dq19gaAkCBEALw_web

Hoyt: https://wolfmanarchery.com/products/hoyt-archery-american-hunting-recurve-bow-30-50ibs-64-inch-formula?currency=USD&sku=18067824058033848162851625&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=Google%20Shopping&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAA99mfUkzd1D54V_kLqPBc8sXKeo7g&gclid=Cj0KCQiAwOe8BhCCARIsAGKeD57BxczE5xjiTZ7SV1CwTewxAwdT_PB6D5tUr0DFh3wYre4LGNXUnIoaAizPEALw_wcB

Galaxy Sage: https://lancasterarchery.com/products/galaxy-sage-takedown-recurve-bow?variant=40137174057146&country=US&currency=USD&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAADi_IUG9KpltXxxm7hmWFtck_toa7&gclid=Cj0KCQiAwOe8BhCCARIsAGKeD568jQgwjlTcCp2OdwIVXheMQkGi52zf7fb3mX4Y8xab6Z7kuawOCGMaAsfBEALw_wcB

Bonus if you have taken a teenager and can let me know how that was.

I'd like to commission an Otzi setup with the classical trimmings: sinew string, knapped arrowheads, tree tar glue, feather fletching, and a hide quiver

I recently got a cheap fiberglass bow (Han bow from af archery) to learn thumb draw, and I’m struggling to find a reference point for aiming. If I do full instinct and lock in where I want to hit before even raising the bow it usually is pretty close, but if I wobble or the draw isn’t perfectly smooth I don’t know how to correct. Am I missing something? Or is the answer just get better haha.

What’s your go to quiver for hunting? Not a fan of the quiver being on the bow itself but not opposed to one. I typically use a pocket quiver for target shooting but that doesn’t seem practical for sneaking through the woods, especially the dense coastal forests of the PNW. This will be my second season hunting with a trad bow so I’m trying to get dialed in.

I'm curious how people who draw to/past their ears and "anchor" by touching feathers to their cheek aim. Do you use a reference on the hand/bow or do you just shoot instinctively?

I’d like your insight please, thank you

I've dabbled in archery on and off for awhile but never with decent equipment. 15# fiberglass rubber handled bow with completely random arrows as a kid. 25# recurve with random arrows in a community college archery class, and a 25# old recurve I grabbed at a yard sale with....you guess it, random arrows. Pretty much all of them were plastic vanes shot off a bow that needed feathers, some were found aluminum hunting arrows from hiking as a kid, some were cheapo Big5 wooden arrows, someone game me a few random carbon arrows. Needless to say this was always annoying, incredibly inconsistent and always fun.

I recently picked up an absolute steal of a '69 Bear Kodiak Magnum 55#. I can barely string this thing let alone spend hours shooting it, but with the old 25# recurve and maybe another in-between bow to work up I want to get into using the Kodiak, mostly target/3D or hunting if I ever felt I was good enough and had the opportunity.

Building my own arrows would be best eventually, but I'd like to grab some decent off the shelf feather fletched arrows I can practice with. I know Easton Carbon legacy always come up as a common traditional arrow, are there others I should consider without paying a lot for practice arrows, or cheaping out so much I'm wasting my time.

I recently took a trip abroad for an archery competition and bought some Indonesian White Wood arrows there.
At 8m (~5/16") they are stiffer than my 11/32" cedar shafts, but much lighter.

This is what I need for the competitions I do.

Can we get something similar in America? Hardwoods?

I'm tired of chasing around materials and I don't have any budget for failed experiments anymore.

I'm new to traditional archery. I have had a Black Hunter Long ow since the beginning of November, and I'm still learning so much. As someone that wants to eventually be pretty self sufficient, I'm looking for some advice.

I'm stuck for my next purchase. Should I get a string jig first, and make my own strings, or should I get a fletching jig, and learn to fleth my own arrows??

I know I will have both eventually, but I was wondering which you guys (or gals) would recommend to do first.

Thanks.

There are tons of Greek bows featured heavily in statues, pottery, vases, various other decorative motifs, etc…but have there been any recovered artifacts of actual physical bows from Greece’s ancient times?

For my first bow, I made my own, which pulls about 22# at a 29” draw. After a few months of shooting, I decided it was time to upgrade and pick up a Bear Grizzly, which pulls #45 at a 28” draw. I’m 36yo, decently strong, and shoot 70lbs on my compound bow—and a 45# draw on a recurve is no joke. I shot the Grizzly for the first time yesterday and I feel like I got hit by a truck this morning haha.

I know it’s extremely common advice for a veteran shooter to say, “start light on poundage and very gradually increase.” But, from a new shooter, I’d say, “start light on poundage and very gradually increase.” I’m going to keep shooting the Bear, but I may be looking for a 30# bow, too.

Hey All! Wife and I started our trad journey.

For this holiday season I bought my wife AF archery’s basic Turkish bow. Found here: https://afarchery.com/collections/laminated-bows/products/black-queyue?variant=43456163905721

A few sessions in and we were having a blast. Used some Amazon gifts to get myself one of the cheaper AF bows. It’s been a solid shooter and can actually be drawn to my full draw at 34 inches. But it’s rather homely. The wood is not great looking and the wrapping is rather horrid but it’s been very addicting, shooting anywhere from 50-100 arrows a day ever since.

This got me thinking, is there a similar bow to my wife’s AF made for longer draws? Something with actual quality and perhaps a little kinder on the hand shock?

Thanks in advance!

Hello! I'm wondering what are some tips you all have for learning trad archery, from nothing, without a local community and/or coach. I've been really struggling these past couple of sessions and I'm unsure where to really go from here.

I won't be able to shoot for a few days, but I fully intend on posting a form video for some critiques. I intend on taking a longbow hunting, so I really want to be accurate enough to do so. Any tips and/or experience is much appreciated! :)

TLDR: Can you tune a hunting bow and arrow combination, and then build a long range arrow that would tune acceptably to reliably hit long distances out of the hunting bow without having to mess with the tune?

Now the long format:
I'm getting a Hoyt Satori 19" in the mail soon, onto which I'll be putting Long 45# Tradtech Blackmax glass limbs. Hopefully the riser will be more durable for me than the Trident was...
Given whitetail season is just nine days mid-novembre for me, I'm thinking of practicing with my bow at ranges much further than the 30yds I usually do form practice at, and move away from the 5-20yds situational drills I'd been doing until I get back into hunting mode and resume the short ranges, hopefully being a better archer for it.

If I was to tune the bow for 3-under with a slight fixed crawl and keep those constant thorough, do you think that I could possibly get a very light and a very heavy arrow to tune and fly right out of the same bow? I know that the Point Of Impact will change regardless of shaft lenght with such a difference in weight, but I'm worried the nocking point height and shelf spacing might have to be changed when moving between shafts, possibly tiller as well... I still check everything a little obsessively before heading out, but the less I have to fudge with, the better.

I am fortunate enough to have built a backyard range, a paper tuning jig, an arrow saw, and have a bunch of arrow building supplies because I tend to go overboard with things.

Using what I have on hand, these are the build intentions:

Hunting arrow would be an Easton Axis 5mm in 300 or 350 spine, with 175 grains VPA 3 blade 1-1/4 broadheads. Final arrow weight should be around 550-600 grains but whatever tunes is what it'll be. Parabolic 4" feathers with a matte white wrap are my jam. Inserts, footers and nocks all have yet to be decided.
OD on those is juuust a hair under 0.274"
I like front heavy hunting arrows, but they tend to have a very pronounced parabola, hence my considering a secondary build...

Long range arrows would be Accmos Predator (Cuz cheap. I splurged enough on the rest...) in 400 or 500 spine, with ideally a 75 or 100 grains field tip. I'd probably try to go to a 2-1/2 or 3" feather with the shortest wrap I can cut to fit. Final arrow weight for me would be around the 400 grains (or around 8GPP for me) and I would not feel good about going much below that.
OD on those noodles is around 0.300"

Feel free to let me know I'm overthinking the hel out of this!

#trusttom