<정사론 - How to properly shoot 정량궁(170lbs strength bow)>

"When archers have been shooting bows for 3 years, they should learn how to shoot heavy Jeong-Ryang-Gung(정량궁). By shooting heavy bow, one could learn proper form and alignment that is most efficient and powerful to shoot any bow. Without shooting 정량궁, one might be proficient with the bow they shoot, but can never find out the most proficient form that can give the biggest strength and thus stability."

->There are 4 sequences to this, but I(translator) will focus on the initial 3, eliminating non technical mental training part.

◇ General Principle

"To spread 정량궁, you need to firmly support your strength on bone alignment, since it is much stronger."

-> author uses the expression 'spreading' than 'drawing' since it should happen by both arms simultaneously. Your bow arm push and draw arm pull. this should happen at the same time. without bow arm pushing, draw arm can't pull. Without draw arm pulling, bow arm can't push. do it simultaneously.

"Bone alignment and lock should be made as follows; Lower your bow arm shoulder so it is securely locked to your scapular, leaving no room to move. Glenoid Fossa should properly support head of Humerus. If this is hard, try to support with Coracoid process. Since Coracoid process has Biceps branchii, and pectoralis minor rooted in, doing this will automatically lower and align your scapular and bow arm shoulder."

-> for visual aid, this is what they mean : https://images.app.goo.gl/XmUmNLFGp6tsAkhz5

◇ 거궁(Raise bow) - 개궁(Spread bow)

"Raise both arms above high. put no strength nor pressure put to any part of your arm at this point. If you put pressure or strength on any part of your arm or shoulder at this point, it will later disrupt the alignment and disrupt. the strength and pressure should apply from the root in sequence; spine - shoulder - arm - wrist - palm."

"Like following a circle above your head, spread the bow. Push your bow arm and pull your draw arm. Don't spread the bow arm elbow before shoulder alignment happens, as it will disturb the alignment and even if you reach full draw, it will end up in a weaker unstable alignment that is hard to maintain."

"Putting strength on arms before spreading will also limit the movement of your shoulder, resulting in unstable 만작(full draw)"

"Raising both arm high at initial phase is way easier for spreading. Bow hand should be supporting the bow skywards, while draw hand should pull the bow downwards, bent to 90°, like picking off a fruit from a tree. Put your draw hand to your shoulder close."

◇ 만작(Full draw) - 발시(Release)

"At this point, your bow hand is pushing forward while your draw hand is holding the bow downwards, securing it from any movement."

-> Make the above mentioned bone alignment at this point. when your shoulder is lowered and alignment is made, securing it, you are ready to release.

"Release should be done giving same push and pull you gave from spreading the bow sequence. Bow hand is pushing forwards, while draw hand is holding it back at place. Open your arms(to the direction you were spreading the bow) to release the bow."

I'm watching Heike Monogatari, an animated TV show from Japan about a war between two powerful clans during the feudal era thats adapted from one of the most beloved Samurai stories ever written in Japan.

In one scene the young teenage nobility of the Heike clan who still haven't finished the rite of passage to become Samurai are shown pulli the strings of their bow and releasing it over and over. The dojo trainer tells them this should help the young boys (who never trained in actual military before) strengthened their arms and develop stamina before they start training with actual arrows. So for a whole day the boys do this action of repetition with their bows.

I'm curious is this an actual real training method in archery? Do even the top Olympic archers and world champions in the sports train this way and not just beginners?

Modern compound bows have gotten too technical and expensive. Goin to start shooting traditional equipment only!

Hey guys

So I've had this conundrum in life for awhile and wanted to verbalize it onto a thread to get some feedback.

Sling portion:

For 6 years I've taught myself from the ground up how to sling, majority of the time from experimentation, slinging.org forums and YouTube videos. I've gotten to a point where I can sling reliably and hit what I'm looking at so long as I keep my rocks and strength of cast consistent.

Though it is a difficult sport, I've recognized that I got from point A to B all by myself with zero professional training and solely determination and effort.

The conundrum:

I have shot archery for coming close to 10 years. I am self taught with no professional training and enjoy the concept and goal of learning it so much that I carve and make my own 45lb and up self bows that could hunt game if I wanted.

The problem is that in all this time , the progress of understanding how it works and completing the shot process is neither consistent nor really advancing anywhere. I'm not even sure if I fully understand back tension or how hard I should be trying to complete a shot, so there is almost no accuracy or progress as a whole etc.

Is it just me or is slinging actually easier than the bow, and the bow is simply overblown as being "easy to use" but only when it is taught to you? Or am I just insane and bitter from it not working??

So i have recently picked upp archery again after a long break. The 3d target i used back in the day is quite worn out and i was curious if anyone on here has any experience with repairs/fixes, as buying a new one is a bit too pricy. Thanks for any advice 😊

Hi ! :) I have this mongolian fiber glass bow

Length: 55inch
Draw weight 20lb

my draw length is 24"

what arrows should I get?

thank you so much :)

My club is open year round and I am looking forward to shooting the field course as it gets colder (temps in the low 40s, high 30s, F). One piece recurve, maple core, glass laminated bow, carbon arrows.

The one that shoots the best is the Sanlida Royal X8.

50# at 60", 7.5" brace height using Black Eagle Vintage carbon arrows cut to 30.5" with 125 grain tips. 414 grain total weight.

Not noisy, crisp let off to the point it is satisfying. No twang, with just a bear hair rest and rubber strike plate with fur string silencers. I am extremely pleased with this $130 bow.

I also shoot:

1994 Martin/Howatt Super Diablo Zebrawood recurve 60"/55# 7" BH

White Feather Lark ILF recurve 66"/50# 8-1/4" BH

Fleetwood Summit III recurve 60"/50# 7.5" BH

Oberon longbow 62"/50# 7.5" BH

The last great hurrah of the English Longbow. Sorry to any French archers reading this.

So a good month ago or so. I made myself a new 16 strand B55 flemish twist single loop string for my 60-65 pound english longbow.

Now I feel like have twisted and retied the bottom nock more then i ever have in my life. and it keeps stretching and stretching like there is no end. have I done something wrong in construction of the string or what ? because I am at wits end.

I have a Smock Mind 50, and I am trying to wrap my head around how to properly make and attach a jum-tong (the wrapped handle). I have a rough idea on how tall it should be and that it's center should be just above the bow center, but I just need a bit more information...

Anyone able to point me anywhere?

I'm fairly new to archery I have a draw lenth of 29, I was looking at a black hunter 60" is this bow to small for me? If so what bows do you recommend?

As the title says I'm tall, I also have a proportional wingspan. I have not shot a bow since I was a kid and I really want a traditional bow but am not sure if my long draw length will make finding a traditional bow and arrows difficult. Any recommendations would be appreciated.

After an unfortunate accident with a dog I lost the tip of my middle finger and have to take a hiatus from traditional archery. I need some recommendations on none shooting drills and exercises both physically and mentally that you all practice when not slinging arrows. If you have any book recommendations I’d love those all the more. Once I get this bulky bandage off I’m going to pull on my compound for a while till the tip is weight bearing for finger release.

I currently have a takedown recurve that I've been shooting barebow, I love traditional archery and would like to get a horsebow and wanted recommendations. I just want something that shoots nicely, feels traditional, and looks nice on display when not being used. Budget is £120 max, like I said its more for fun and enjoyment so I dont want to spend too much. I found these on huntingdoor but not sure if they are any good:

https://uk.huntingdoor.com/products/arch-moon-mongolian-recurve-bow?variant=37295353462983

https://uk.huntingdoor.com/collections/traditional-recurve-bows/products/46-inch-toparchery-horse-bow

https://uk.huntingdoor.com/collections/traditional-recurve-bows/products/rosewood-bow

I did however however see that Samick also have a horsebow range, I've heard a good rep for their takedown recurves, are they any good at horsebows/one piece bows?

I've seen people saying that Manchu bows are best suited for heavy draw weights, typically around 80lb+, because that's where supposedly the layout benefits outweigh the high mass of the siyah. Now I know that's not 100% accurate, but still does anyone even make heavy Manchu bows?

Here are the models I know of, focusing on laminated models, because those interest me the most:

• Alibow Xongkoro: max 45lb @ 35"
• Cinnabarbow Qing Dragon 2: max 70lb @ 36"
• Kadys Bows Short Manchu: 60lb @ 28" (max draw of 34")

Then there are the full fiberglass models, but even those don't seem to reach truly high poundages:

• AF Archery Mongolia Bow: 70lb @ 28" (claims 34" max draw, but it doesn’t really get there)
• Alibow Yarha II: 80lb @ 35"
• Alibow Imperial Strength Bow: 110lb @ 28" (max draw 31.5"), but this one doesn’t count since you can’t shoot it.

A friend bought a compound bow for his son and later his son and him found out that they both like recurve instead of compound.

Now can the compound bow be any useful in their practices with the recurve now or should they just sell it?

Sick and tired of changing my shooting glove every 2 months and I’ve been doing it for years….has ANYONE found a glove that fits snuggly forever or atleast longer than 2-3 months? Feel free to comment what you use see if I’ve used any of them.

I’ve had conflicting information on this. I shoot instinctively/gap shoot with a traditional wooden recurve and was wondering which hook is “better” if you’re not string walking like barebow shooters do.