Hey all, I have a 2007 Tiburon, front wheel drive (if it makes a difference) and the leather on my seats is worn and tearing, so I'm looking for some new cheap seats to replace them, l'm not fussed on the type of seat it is but just wondering what other cars (e.g. elantra, sonata, other hyundai models) have compatible seats that will fit in my car and are preferably straight bolt on?

I'm looking to buy a Tiburon to be a daily (ideally GT with 5 or 6 speed) and I found one for $800 but she says it jumped timing and no longer runs. From my research these have interference engines so there's a chance that the piston and valves made contact, but how much does it usually cost to fix it? I know the timing belt is decently cheap (I was expecting to do that myself on any of these cars anyways) but what sort of damage is usually done on these cars when the timing jumps?

EDIT: adding on to this, I do expect to have to do some bigger maintenance on this car specifically as it is at 190k miles. When I asked her how low she could go on the price, she did say the belt broke while driving, so there's potentially more damage than just if the belt slipped

I realized today that my car heater only works when I’m accelerating , once I stop for a little bit at a red light, the air cools and during the summer my ac wouldn’t really work either , just produce air and there’s also a weird smell after having the air system on for a bit ?

Recently bought my first tibby, 2005 automatic V6 2.7 OBD scanner and mechanic said canister purge valve needs replaced, easy fix. I buy part, mechanic say he doesn’t do emissions work, is this something I can do myself and if so how? I’m not super car savvy but I’ve done a few things on her already. Please help!

https://www.autoscout24.nl/aanbod/hyundai-coupe-coupe-2-0i-16v-dynamic-benzine-zilver-9ca107a8-1b0d-4cf6-ac76-edbb3c2edce1

Hey everyone, my tiburon is up for sale in The Netherlands.

Hey everyone, if you need a manual for your tibby check out the link. It has everything you need.

https://charm.li/

Hey all question for you fine folks. So I am working on an 2003 2.7 gt. Very basic bare bones. Love the car. So the previous owner screwed up the Left door locking cable and actuator. I got a new cable and the old owner had a new actuator. Got it all installed. Now here is my question. So I can lock the door from insid now, however it doesn't un/lock the right door. I try the right door and it will un/lock both doors. Any ideas what I can be missing? Why would one side do both but the other just does it self.

Hey I have a 1.6 petrol engine in a right hand drive car I found and engine thats the same 1.6 but from a left hand drive would there be any issues if I put in the lhd engine in my rhd car ?

Pls give me suggestions for spoilers with LED brake (prefered from other cars ) I cant find the high stock one în my country (dont have money for a new one )

As maybe some of you know, my already Supercharged 2.0 is getting twincharged. I have made some very professional bleuprints and the shop said it was possible (got inspiration from a eastern european instagrammer who did it the same way with a BMW) Now its time to measure and order parts, i have already a Turbo and headers. Most of the piping is already there, so its getting traction. In Theory reaching 300Hp or littlebit higher.

Add ons/Tips are always welcome

My inspiration: https://www.instagram.com/reel/DBtwkuotY-4/?igsh=NGM5a2hhcXBlNWxh

Having an issue to where my clutch is not fulling engaging and it's hard to put in gear at a stop and ruff to shift while driving. Dang near impossible to put in reverse.. is there a clutch adjustment. It's a 06 2.7 6 speed manual.. the fluid is dark i recently had the clutch throw out bearing pressure plate and fly wheel done so that should still be fine only bn like 6 months . I personally changed the slave cylinder and master. Had a really hard time bleeding it and even getting it to work had to take it where I had the work done and have them bleed it. So without some good suggestions on how to with that I'm worried to even mess with trying that because atleast right now it still moves and if I can't bleed it properly I'll have to pay to have it towed trying to avoid that $$$ !!! So is there any other adjustment on the system or does anyone have suggestions on what I should do to address this issue b4 it's completely gone out. Thanks !!!

Just as the title suggests, although it's one of 2 things I did. Car would occasionally tick loudly like a bad bearing and it came and went on it's own. It started out just when it was idling for a while but started to do it while driving and was loud enough to have been rod knock which was very concerning, but then it would just disappear. For a good 15,000 miles I actually had figured out that it only ticked before 3400 and if I kept it under 3,000 rpm while driving it wouldn't tick at all and if something changed and the tick came around I could hold the RPMs at just where the ticking stopped for a few seconds and it would go away for a good long while in the same drive. This got worse over time though until I could no longer control when it stopped ticking and it really made it unsettling to drive.

Driving on a hot day of 94°F down the highway, the radiator blew and it got very hot before I saw the steam and pulled over (I think the obd readout said 265 before it was shut off) and I found that the head gasket had gone which allowed combustion gasses into the coolant which caused steam pockets which caused the water pump weep hole to open which caused low coolant, and thus way too much steam which blew the rad. The car had over 200k miles but is in relatively good shape so I decided to tear it down and do the head gasket, water pump, timing belt (again), and all due diligence in between. In doing this job I found that the previous shop that had done the job when the timing belt broke 40k miles previously on my cousin who owned the car at the time had stripped the timing belt tensioner arm threads in the block and applied a helicoil, and they did not torque the rear head well at all. 3 bolts were much much easier to remove and by that I mean maybe 50% of the torque on them. Nonetheless, I put a new helicoil in and went through the process of putting it all back together over the course of 2 weeks. PitA with the engine in vehicle and things being stripped but it's fixed.

The TL;DR part is here: The Hydraulic Valve Lash Adjusters were removed and cleaned with an air compressor and the oil paths through them were pretty gunky. Most of them had nasty thick oil stuck in them but still had flow. At least 3 had actual blockage in them.

The other part of this that may be the cause of the tapping and my personal belief is the timing belt tensioner armature. When fully seated on the block, I could still wiggle it back and forth slightly on its bolt up against the block and when I did so rapidly, it very much resembles my ticking noise using the block as a megaphone.

Upon inspection, I found that the tensioner appeared to have had a rubber bushing around its center bearing sleeve that also covered the ends at the bolt head and the block but these were completely worn away. I think when the engine hits a certain harmony in vibration that it would cause this arm to rock back and forth slapping the block to the bolt head rapidly and if you could rev it just right and separate the two frequencies, the ticking would disappear. The obvious answer would be to replace the arm itself with new, but I was working in a borrowed space at the time and couldn't wait another week so I did some shaving of the old arm inner bearing to be slightly shorter than the outer and then used a very precisely sized washer to shore it up flush again, and then another washer between the arm and the block so it can still actuate with the tensioner. I've got a good 1-2k on the work done so far and the only ticking left is the cold oil tick in my current 14°F weather, the cold injectors for a few minutes on startup, and my throw out bearing reminding me it's still there.

So the story is my handbrake folds the car when it's standing but any hill or any speed it's absolutely useless like actual nonexistent I been trying to tighten it at the handbrake adjusting bolt but there's no help at all what could I try to fix the issue it's a 2007 1.6 petrol fx

Reading a little🦈📖

I want to turbo it but I’m concerned about getting poor mpg after doing so does anyone have one that has a turbo and if so how bad is the mpg now?

Today morning my car did not start. Tried jumping starting but it did not work, did a little digging and found it might be because of a bad starter. Does anyone know where to locate it? I have a 2006 tiburon 4 cylinder. I just need to start it once so I can drive it home or to a mechanic. Thanks