I brew a fruited (haskap) witbier, 200 lbs for 1000 liters of beer.

I pasteurized then I put them in puree with an immersion blender.

When I transfert to my bright tank I use an inline filter but it takes so much time and lose so much beer, what else (other type of filter) could I use to filter to remove mostly the skin of the fruit)?

Anyone know what this hop might be? We acquired hops from a brewery that just closed and these were part of the lot from their walk in.

Hey all, just curious if anyone has ever done this. Historically (for uni-tank fining) I’ve built a decent sized rig from bullet filters or other, purged, poured biofine by volume, bubble purged the fining and pushed it into the tank. However, it occurred to me that you could fill a 1/6bbl keg or corney with biofine, purge, bubble purge and then keep store it indefinitely and push in by mass rather than volume. Would make it cleaner, faster and potentially more fool proof and I’m just curious if anyone else here’s ever done it this way?

I noticed my tanks all seemed to be a couple degrees warmer than their set temperatures this morning, so I took a look at my chiller controller's data archive. Turns out that at about midnight last night temperatures started rising. Then at about 9:30 a.m, this morning it self corrected pretty quickly. That image below is of the return line to the chiller. Unfortunately, the send side temperature probe went bad and I haven't gotten around to replacing it. Notably, the time period that the chiller acted up is also the time period that temps here dropped below freezing for the first time this season. However, the temperature on briefly dropped to and slightly below my chiller set temperature in the middle of this period. Set temp is 29°F and I think the outside temperature got as low as 28°F for an hour or so last night.

The main troubleshooting tip that I find for something like this happening is an incorrect glycol/water ratio. Manufacturer recommends 35%. I checked and read 27.1 Brix which a chart in the chiller's manual says puts my ratio about about 36% glycol. So that doesn't seem to be the problem. And I had the chiller serviced back in august and everything seemed to be in check. And if there was low refrigerant and the chiller's evaporator coils (or whatever sort of heat exchanger it uses to cool the glycol) froze up, I wouldn't expect it to just self correct as quickly as it did.

The glycol return temp probe is inside the building, so if the pump stopped, I could see that section of glycol warming up to about 40° like it did. It's almost like somebody turned off the unit and turned it back on this morning. But we closed well before midnight last night, so nobody would have been here to even flip a wrong switch. I'm stumped. Anybody have any wisdom that might help solve this mystery and save me from dropping a few hundred dollars on a service call?

https://preview.redd.it/81cf2km5vcyd1.png?width=1080&format=png&auto=webp&s=3876c3f641c32489edebc2cf7226cda7abb631dc

Hey Everyone!

I am working at a taproom what is looking at cleaning their tap lines in-house. In the past, I’ve worked at a brewery where the brew team would clean their tap lines. I have assisted on a couple occasions.

The current establishment I’m working at has two bars, each on separate floors with a cold room on the first floor. The tap lines split so that each keg has beer pulled from it for both tap towers.

My question- when cleaning the tap lines with splits in them, how would the process differ compared to cleaning lines that go to only one tap tower?

Thanks for the help!

We ended up buying a used yampa line and have been using it a few months. I’m needing whatever manuals and such it would have came with for maintenance and adjustment, the guy we got it from was supposed to send it to us but hasn’t after several attempts to remind him, and we have contacted twin monkeys themselves three times now and they haven’t been of much help. Just wondering if anybody out there may have copies they could send over!

Update; I got one via email last night! Thanks all for the help!!

Hey all. Anyone got a Brewmation Gladiator Keg Washer? I bought a used one and have a couple questions. The brewery I bought it from is out of business and it seems like Brewmation might be too because I can’t get response from anyone there.

1. Does anyone know the little watch-type battery in the computer touchscreen? Mine is missing and I cant find the ID number to replace it.

2. Could anyone provide a screen shot of duration settings for each step of the rinse clean Sam purge cycle? Just as a starting point. I’m guessing because the battery is gone it won’t save any settings.

Thanks-

I’ve never made this style before and looking for advice. I think I’m going to brew a golden ale and kettle sour it. No clue on how much fruit to add and when to add it in the process.

What yeast strain is appropriate? What is your fruit/beer ratio? Are you adding the fruit inline during brite transfer and dosing the fruit with potassium sorbate?

Cheers for any feedback.

Hiiiiii. I'm pretty sure I don't have any air trapped in my 1hp Blichmann pump cart (I ran water through the whole hose via gravity) and the tank is not impeded (manway open) and I'm still not getting this pump to work. I'm just working on running tests/ water right now and have now problem circulating larger volumes of liquid, but when I try to run a CIP amount of liquid, no dice. I bled the air out of a hose clamp, but don't have a bleed valve as such. It's only the second time operating it. Who works on these pumps, what do I google to find someone local to take a look at it? Any other words for me?

Nut rolls? Funny meme? Here is the place to share it.

Anyone here have any luck passivating tanks with Citric acid? We have an open fermenter we need to passivate, but we're trying to find an alternative to our regular chemical (Compound CR-120N from Madison Chem) that's a little safer to use.

Hey y'all,

Our brew team has been working with Ekos for over 2 years now, and we've had issues from the jump with the usability of the software (shocking, I know). Regardless of the difficulties, I realize the reporting aspect of Ekos is the driving motivation for keeping it around. I've spoken with other friends in the industry and they've all mentioned using Ekos in conjunction with other software to track what Ekos cannot, or does so poorly. My main concern is noting brew day data (temperatures, timing, etc.), wort/beer volume, fermentation and cellaring schedules (i.e. when we set the beer to different temperatures, harvesting yeast, dryhops, etc.) and making sure those tasks get done when necessary and done so correctly while inputting valuable info that I can go back and check out EASILY. At the moment, we use SharePoint for our brew day targets, and I was thinking of using that for this purpose BUT I'm concerned I'll ultimately be making more work for myself/my coworkers, and potentially creating more opportunity for error through Ekos reports.

I guess I'm asking for inspiration here. If you use a different software for the actual PRODUCTION side of beer, what do you use and how does this work in conjunction with Ekos? Have you found a non-tedious way of using two separate sites? How can I maintain confidence in our reporting through Ekos if I'm asking my coworkers to the same task twice- if that's even what I'm asking?

HELP.

thanks guyssssss

We've been using an M+F Keg-Technik Micromat A 4/2 for years and recently realized that the 1/2 bbl keg DO's are way higher than we would like (log DO's are fine though). Has anybody else had the same experience with this machine? So far our plan to remedy this is to have the program edited to increase keg purge time (working on having them send us a custom plug and play chip with this program modification). No idea until we try it whether or not it will make much of a difference, but so far that's all we've got for ideas. Anybody have any other thoughts on this?

Hi, I decided to make alcohol free beer and I found one source that can provide yeast for this type of beer but it was too expensive. So anyone here have used this type of yeast and where did he get it from? Thanks,

Have some lagers I need to make space for new cans - so giving parents a beer when trick or treating with the kids. The reactions are priceless - got rid of a dozen already 🤣 👊

Hey all, I’ve been given the task to purchase our first forklift for the brewery. I’ve driven many different kinds but have never purchased before. It’ll be used for spent grain removal unloading and loading trucks and moving pallets around. So indoor/ with a little outdoor usage. Is electric the way to go? Is there less or more maintenance and issues with that? Just curious what you all think.

Got a head scratching problem that you can't get to the bottom of? Just solved something that took a while to figure out? Teach us Obi-wan!

I feel like something weird is going on with my mash.

Todays beer was 10bbl, in the mash was 1095L (290gallons) water. 175kg (385lb) 2-Row, 125 (27%) Pils, 40 (88) Spelt, 17 (37) Naked Oats Malt.

To get the mash to 5.3 I needed 660ml (22oz) 85% phosphoric acid.

That seems like a lot, but at this place I'm at thats pretty normal.

Most recent water test we got was..

7.7pH, 236 TDS, 3,7 Cations
46ppm Sodium, 2 Potassium, 25 Caclium, 4 magnesium, 82 Total Hardness, 8 Sulfate, 37 Chloride, 101 Bicarbonate. 83 total alkalinity

My efficiency is crazy bad as well, is there something I'm missing? Is that a crazy amount of acid? is that affecting my efficiency?

We are trying a new beer and a new measurement device with the brewbrain float. We are now for the first time seeing the profile of fermentation but it seems to slow way down and still far above the FG we had in mind. Should we be concerned and or is there anthing we need to do?

The syle is a belgian strong ale. With wyeast 1338

Explain to me how you're deriving wetting pressure, what rotameter you're using, and how you're using it. And is it worth it?

If anybody has any left over from an install hit me up. I 'm looking for some spare ones to replace a couple that are leaking on me.

I needed to shoot some video, didn't have my tripod, but this worked great!

Hey! Question to yall.

I have this west coast pils that is turning hazy. It’s been packaged in kegs for now 2 months.

I’ve noticed lately the bottom 3rd of each keg looks like a hazy, the first 2/3rds haze developed a little haze.

It was super clear when packaged. It was crashed for 11 days prior to packaging. Biofin’d too. Like I said, it was clear going into the keg.

I don’t have a way to check D.O levels in the beer; but doesn’t taste oxidized. Can usually sniff it out pretty easily.

It still tastes good, smells good.

I’ve never had a beer do this.

Curious what factors could be at play here and maybe I can track down what happened. Besides this haze lately, it has been my favorite hoppy beer I’ve produced.

Thanks in advanced!

Edit: so after sampling a few kegs, the color does look darker ( oxidation). Would that impart a haze too?

Discovered a cross-flow leak today from cold to hot. Time for gasket replacements. Any suggestions for ABE 4x6 plates that might save a bit of money compared to ABE direct? Thanks!!

Hey team,

I'm a brewer from down under and recently I had an awesome opportunity to try some proper fresh American beers, including Pliny, Breakside & Sierra Nevada.

One thing that stood out to me was that compared to our local WCIPA, the actual US ones have this very assertive bitterness that surges early in the palate. It then yields to a malt sweetness mid, and finishes with a lingering bitterness.

I feel like we're there with the mid and late, but how do we hit that super early bitterness? It was obvious before I even put my glass down.

Am already using CTZ hop oil at 60m, controlling for preboil pH @ 5.25, 150-200ppm sulf, and yet, I can't taste the bitterness till later.

Cheers!

From a brewers perspective: Straight to jail or no big deal?