Title. Whenever I enter/exit an on/off ramp spiritedly my brake light flashes and my interior overhead light turns on. The brake light I assume is because the fluid in the reservoir is being thrown around and it thinks it’s low but I don’t understand the interior light coming on. Has anyone ever had this happen or know what I’m talking about?

2010 Impreza OBS

I have a 2013 subaru impreza that I bought 2 months ago from a shady dealer, i've only driven 2500 miles with it and i'm having major issues. It's getting looked at this week, but i'm hoping to get a few suggestions as to what it could be so I can prepare for the cost.

The blue coolant light came on about 10 miles after I drove it off the lot but turned off quickly (within the same drive). My coworkers told me this could have been because I was using the AC unit so I didn't think much of it. I have driven the car without issue since then, with the light turning on and off inconsistently - I figured it was a sensor issue so I didn't have it looked at (a mistake). After driving 2500 miles, I was on a longer drive than normal (35 miles) and as I arrived to my destination, the red overheat light began to flash. No smoke. The car remained parked for 4 hours and I drove home with no issue. The next day, I drove 20 miles down the road and the red overheat light came on (not flashing) and the coolant light at the same time while on the highway. Then the oil light came on, the check engine light, and lane assistance light. I pulled off the highway into an autozone, the light started to flash and my car began to smoke. I checked and both my coolant and oil levels were empty - but my oil change sticker still has another 3k until service. The car was full of oil when I drove it off the lot, I was sure to check. I filled them both and let them flow for an hour before trying to drive again, I didn't make it 5 miles until my car began to overheat and smoke again. I had to get a tow.

My warranty was only for 30 days because the car is at 110,000 miles. It has now expired, not like I would trust them to bring my car back there anyways. I am looking into the lemon law and will most likely take legal action, but still need to get the vehicle fixed in the mean time as I am a independent 23 year old trying to scrape by and I need a vehicle to commute to and from work. I also am financing the vehicle and still owe a good chunk of money (8k).

Hey all, out of my depth here because I'm trying to find a thing for my friend who owns the subaru,

I own a madza 3 mps (mazdaspeed 3 outside for the UK) and is have a COBB Accessport, that allows me to map, clear engine codes, read them, as well as have some gauges up for AFR, air temp, battery voltage, collant temperature, and more to customise, and it would all work via the OBD port

My question is, apart from the map part, is there something similar for a Bugeye 01 subaru impreza that you could get specifically for the OBD port, we are trying to purchase off setting up proper gauges for now as my friend has bought a project car that most of his time and effort will go to.

Thanks, (based in UK)

Have a pair of 205/55R16 on my 2013 Subaru Impreza. Looking at a set of 225/45R17’s unsure if they’ll fit

Hey there, so I've got a 2011 impreza 2.5i, and for some reason my blower motor stopped working. My rear belt snapped at some point during a drive and I found it beneath my car once i parked. The belt has been replaced and tensioned, accessories like power steering and the actuator are still functional and I have no dashboard lights. What could cause/have caused my blower motor to stop working? It is winter in Minnesota and having no heat is becoming quite uncomfortable.

I had a big post with examples of all the websites showing reliability of the Impreza, but it got deleted after I accidently refreshed the page.

Can't possibly repost all the web sources I had, so all I'll say is there seems to be some conflicting info out there.

I saw one source say the 4th generation is the worst.

Another source said the 3rd generation is the worst.

Another said the 2015 model year is the best, and another said to avoid it. One said the 2017 was very reliable but another said users reported CVT issues that was fixed in later models.

So basically I'm not sure what to think about all these websites giving seemingly conflicting info. The only exception is that the first generation seems to be very solid, even though they're older models.

I'd have guessed the last model year of each generation is one of the most reliable years you could buy.

I'll go first and say that I'm the 2nd owner of the 2014 Touring hatch. Bought at 75,000 km. Replaced Clutch at 150,000 km, replaced brake pads and rotors at least once, probably twice. Replaced a ball joint or two, and that's pretty much it.

Now at 176,000km.

Somewhat unrelated question:

In your opinions, is it better to buy a newer model with higher mileage, or an older model with lower mileage when both cars are roughly the same price?

Example: 2016 with 60,000km, or 2022 with 220000km, both being ~ $13,000.

ive spent quite a while on wonderfull forums and a whole bunch of time on nasioc and im still looking for help and recorces on this topic. Most people are converting the sti’s too rallyish builds, but im doing just the 2007 wrx limited. For some reason the 07 sti and wrx have different OEM offset, and almost every manufacturer seems to not have 15x7 5x100 and a 50-55+ offset. They all have 15+ and as im not supposed to differ more then 5mm i haven’t found one. Only the Method MR501 VT-Spec 2 rims are close with a +48 offset. Any other suggestions and help would be great as i can still get black fryday discounts!! Thanks

Just bought cross bars for my ‘24 Impreza but it came without the screws, ended up figuring out their code (SOA367027) but turns out Subaru is completely out of stock. Anyone know the size and thread of the screws by any chance?

Ok so any tips on bleeding the clutch? I get that you pump it. But after a hour of trying and it still just spring to the floor it’s a bit annoying. Usually have a buddy help but he and I don’t speak anymore so

Hi all, I am looking to add an aftermarket stereo to my 2013 impreza. It does not need to be fancy, I just want to be able to use apply carplay and obviously still use my backup camera, a volume dial is a plus, however.

My two questions are: 1. how difficult is it to swap myself, is it better to go to a stereo shop or is it relatively simple and 2. is there a generally favored brand thats relatively inexpensive, I don't want to spend like a thousand dollars on it. My research has lead me to look on crutchfield but was curious if there were any favored brands around here. Thanks!

So basically my girlfriend got a minor scratch on her 2024 Impreza rs fog light bezel and wants it replaced but doesn't want to do it herself without detailed instructions. I could easily do it but I'm a couple hundred miles away so i was wondering if anyone had a video or forum link on how to replace it or could give instructions on how to pop out the fog light bezel (57731FN140) TIA

Parked my car, came out 5 minutes later and when I started my car these lights appeared. Tried to turn the car off and back on, no avail. Also my heat stopped working

Hello I've got a lovely subaru impreza GX sport 2003 2.0L non turbo.

I have an issue where if I put my foot to the floor in 1st gear the car will move off at a normal pace then at around 5mph Ill get this sudden surge of power and the car accelerates as if I've only just put my foot down. This is only in 1st and it's every time I pull off even if I don't put my foot to the floor. But it feels like after I hit a certain speed in 1st the car actually kicks into a good acceleration.

My car usually has some high revs sticking to 1100RPM then settling to 500rpm.

For background info i bought the car as a non runner fixed it up. It has a decat exhaust and I've found that I have a lambda sensor 1 code and the sensor has actually been cut off. I wired one in myself but looking at the scanner there is no live info and still the code.

My question is this sudden surge in 1st is that supposed to happen? Or is that due to an issue with that lambda sensor?

Started getting significant shaking in the car and the steering wheel at low speeds and vibration at highway speeds. Research suggests the most likely candidate is imbalanced wheels.

Which seems likely, but there are times where it seems completely fine for a stretch of road and then it returns. Does that still make sense?

I’ll be getting it to the garage as soon as possible regardless.

Not perfect since it’s my first go, and I’ll probably sew some new ones. But these are nice for the time being. Now I have to get a new knob. I’ll clean her tomorrow 🥲

How bad is this?? His insurance should pay for it but hoping everything just cosmetic bs

For a while now my 2009 Subaru Impreza has had the check engine light, traction control light, and cruise control light come on all at once and then randomly turn back off. Does anyone have any idea what this could be?

I recently got a 2022 Premium. It did not originally come with remote start. But when I was handed the keys, the salesman and I were both surprised to see the extra remote start fob on the key chain.

Only problem is my fans and heated seats don’t turn on! Only the engine runs. No matter how I set the fan, they never blow while remote started. Is this normal for a vehicle that has been equipped with remote start outside the factory?