I recently got an OLED and was looking to personalize it a little bit with a button change. I like the stock black base for the device, I mainly just want red buttons. I have yet to find red buttons for the OLED version, but I keep coming across this one: https://a.co/d/jc6q37c

Would the buttons listed for LCD be the same for the OLED?

Also, maybe someone can verify for me; the back buttons aren't replaceable without also replacing the shell?

Edit: I compared the pics of the button sets on ExtremeRate's site. It seems the major differences are with the track pad covers and bumpers...

Hey guys! So I just swapped out the shell for my OLED for a custom one. Now the deck powers on and the touchscreen works, but just about every button except power and volume don't seem to function at all. I've tried taking the thing completely apart (minus the screen) and reassembling it again, suspecting that I might have missed a cable, but the problem persists. Has anyone experienced this and/or have any ideas? I'm relatively new to the hardware modding scene and could use some advice. I can confirm that everything was working before removing it from the OEM shell.

EDIT: SOLVED! Turns out the MB cable was loose on the MB side. I had fixed it previously but it apparently jostles out of the socket incredibly easily so it just took a few tries. Thank you everybody for the help!

I really like to play rhythm games on my deck, and I kind of feel like the R1 & L1 buttons feel a little mushy for my purposes, at least on my deck. Has anyone tried shimming the shoulder buttons to make them feel better?

Long story short: my kiddo accidentally dropped my LCD deck, and the screen broke. No huge deal, but seeing as I have to replace it anyway I figured I’d consult those who have upgraded to it.

It’s the same price right now due to holiday sales so I figured it may be worth snagging.

Gonna do a full shell swap as well seeing as I need a new screen anyway.

Just had to play Patapon again after watching the Ratatan trailer! Got me so hyped!

Hi Guys!

So I received my replacement holo effect sticks today, HandheldDIY makes some for the OLED and they're great! I did have a slight click in the left one but honestly could've ignored it, however HandheldDIY sent me an entire extra set! So I went to install my new left stick, and decided to repaste the Deck with some of my other paste as well as putting thermal pads to create contact with the rear EMF shielding.

However, while the shield was folded over, I guess the ribbon/ZIP connector that connects the right and left halves together must've bent as a poor angle and cause failure to book. I took my GF's LCD and pulled the ribbon cable to verify the issue, and sure enough, booted right up. Now, the issue.

Steam Support says they cannot provide the part, iFixIt doesn't have it, and there's very few results on the internet. I'm still in talks with Steam Support to resolve this, but not looking so good right now. So, does anyone know the thickness, length, and # of pins the ribbon cable must be?

I believe it's 20 pins, the part number on there (which doesn't bring up too many results) is AWM 20706 105c 60v vw-1. I ordered this one on Amazon, although seems to be missing the alignment hooks. We shall see. Anyone with more info please let me know either here or DMs.

(attached image is of the LCD cable, which is white, but the black one in the OLED seems to be identical besides routing)

https://preview.redd.it/xlm3fses7d3e1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c6d8e0c589efe172d1e6016f2c087cdcace60bc5

https://preview.redd.it/ys6h0tes7d3e1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=59d896d0b723209281404ebaa367cf9b72408ba1

https://preview.redd.it/zinuhses7d3e1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2a8221da90e2535b4cf669bbd55b44da7b44cd68

https://preview.redd.it/5dotvtes7d3e1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=100d80aec9b81224aeb8e031a159e01e19bf4c1c

on my lcd i have upgraded ssd, repasted, upgraded to 7950 and I have since done the same to my OLED version. Every time I do an upgrade, I seem to not be able to play it immediately after and have to leave it on the charger till way later in the day or next day. Is there something I am missing to do as to why it is not able to be turned on immediately after?

I shell swapped my LCD model for the DeckHD. I'm wondering if there is a known issue with docking the steamdeck after swapping as mine will not connect to my TV now.

Hello! Basically, the title. Since that doesn't paint the whole picture, here goes:

A while ago I got me a Steam Deck, the original LCD cheapest option, before the OLED was a thing. I almost immediately upgraded its thumbsticks with hall-effect alternatives, and upgraded the SSD to something-larger-than-64GBs. I've also added a 512GB SD card.

Now, I admit, I've also tweaked the heck out of it compared to the Average User, from running your Typical Popular Scripts for adjusting SteamOS's swap, installing Decky, and a crapton of emulators, to formatting the SD card with BTRFS and running my own custom-made Node.js apps on its desktop.

Aaaaaand I have the occasional crash. Not always, and not following a pattern. In its "original state", crashes used to happen only after justified failures: a game freezing - and having to forcefully restart the Deck, a Decky plugin taking down the whole Steam Big Picture UI - and having to forcefully restart the Deck, etc. (...and having to forcefully restart the Deck).

However, after the upgrade, it tends to crash much more often than with the original SSD. One out of every 10 to 20 game shutdowns and boom, fans spinning, screen goes black, restart, checking storage. Swapped from the Game OS to the Desktop and back more than 10 times in a row, zzzzapp, black screen, fans up, restart, checking storage.

Has anyone else met a similar issue after upgrading the SSD? Mine's a Corsair 1TB I got from Amazon.de.

so i did a buttons mod and changed the thermal paste while i was there , and after reconnecting the battery and pressing the power button , the white led started spazing, the fan is not moving , no sound, no haptics - nothing. i tried turning it on with the power cable and battery disconnected but that didn't help either.

can anyone help me to fix this?

https://reddit.com/link/1gwnakw/video/5jh44aj8ya2e1/player

Solved. Apparently it went to some kind of protection mode , and all I had to do is to keep it charging for about an hour.

Hi, I have just printed a set of button for my steam deck. The idea is now to paint then before use it. I need some help on choosing which colors to do. I will give the option with the color in the steam deck order ABYX

1. SNES colors in the original position: Yellow, Red, Blue, Green
2. SNES colors in deck position: Red, Yellow, Green, Blue
3. Xbox colors: Green, Red, Yellow, Blue

My problem is that the colors are the same but in different order. I would like to know what will be the most practical thing to do.

Hi everyone,

I’m replacing my laptop with my Steam Deck, and with a 2TB SSD, space isn’t an issue. However, I want to make sure my data is encrypted.

I’m considering Veracrypt, EncFS, or maybe something else? I’m experienced with Debian Linux and comfortable with the command line, so complex setups aren’t a problem as long as they’re secure and practical for regular access.

Any tips or recommendations from those who’ve done something similar?

Thanks in advance! 😊

I’ve only ever done shell swaps for switch joycons and a switch lite, I was wondering if it would be a wise decision to do the same to my steam deck

Not sure what I did but I can’t get it to look like it used to I don’t like the small square look in my library I looked in CSS loader and steam grid DB but I can’t seem to fix it anybody have any tips

Has anyone looked into Speaker Mods? The Steam Deck Speakers aren’t bad but would love to get them better.

First time doing any physical mod and she booted up perfectly. Had a dream of doing this exactly before attempting 3 days before. Life’s weird huh

Hi everyone, today i recived the rgb shell for my oled steam deck (i bought the oled one obv) but now i put it in and the R1 button doesen’t click like before or like L1. If i remove again the shell it clicks like normal, so the shell is like pressuring the button. Anywone know how i can fix this or should i contact JSAUX? (i did only the back shell swap, not all the shell)

I'm trying to extend the fpc cable that connects the motherboard and the screen. But I would need the pin number and pitch. I believe the pin number is 20, but I'm not 100 percent certain, and I have no clue what the pitch is. Would anyone happen to know these details? Thanks in advance.

May be a stupid question but could I add the laptop version of a rtz 4070 in a steam deck somehow Even without steam os

Hey everyone, I have brought some stuff to mod my steam deck but theres one thing im struggling to source, the buttons, I have an electric volt green xbox controller with the same transparent black shell swap on and id love to make them match. Where have you all brought your buttons from?

For those interested, this is what i have brought so far and would love to hear your thoughts!

• extremerate clicky button kit
• extremerate slate black trans shell (front and back)
• Aknes gulikit electromagnetic joysticks
• extremerate clicky button kit

Thanks for reading!