Is there a community like they have in iRacing where real professionals drive and teach?

I love rally racing and hope there's an avenue for my competitive spirit to find glory

geez that sounds so lame but it's true

https://preview.redd.it/g4kgvcpczs6e1.png?width=963&format=png&auto=webp&s=04b56a271333594eee563dd77d57dc8cc3dc4ec7

I've been playing rally games for pretty much 20 years but only recently got myself a wheel + pedals (G920).

This (in the pic) was just the way that felt natural to me.

Since then I've seen some reels of insta of people driving and they do the opposite to me - left foot stays on clutch and the right food straddles brake + accelerator. That seems to be the standard way but just feels weird and uncomfortable to me. I saw a clip of someone doing it in a real car and it made sense there because he had to really sink the clutch all the way to the floor and back, but I feel like in games (or at least, in dirt 2) you can get away with just a super quick touch on the clutch to shift down. Meanwhile it makes sense to keep full control over the accelerator.

Is this bad? Shoudl I try to re-learn the "proper" way?

Well, I know that's the case with every car in every sim but I was wondering if thats the case in real life as well. I was driving the Golf II in RSFRBR, and considering it's a FWD car, it has such a weak FFB (im using a t300rs).. Usually I have to lower a tiny bit the FFB in game for FWD cars, cause it feels too much, but when I'm driving these older FWD cars with much bigger steering rotation, I leave it on maximum, and it still feels weak to me. Automatic wheel rotation is set in the launcher btw.. So my question is, is this the case in reality as well, or it's something that the sim/wheel struggles to recreate?

I notice there's an option for this in the RSF launcher and i don't really know if any of these will work for my wheel. Can someone explain to me the best way to set this wheel up?

Alright all....who here still plays this absolute classic? Well if you do... I need your help. I've been recently buying a bunch of old racing games with the goal to beat them. (For PS1) NFS high stakes was the first on my list. I completed everything to a 100%. McRae 2.0 was 2nd on my list.

THIS GAME IS HARD. It is my first rally game. I'm playing on intermediate setting. The first 3 stages I got gold trophies in. This was super tough. I honestly started to hate the game at some point. 😂

But I made it to stage 4. Which is Sweden. It's ALL snow. I cannot for the life of me do well on this track. I come somewhere between 3rd and 5th. If you have beaten this stage, can you please enlighten me on the set up you had? I'm using the Cordoba as my car.

I think maybe I just suck or don't know how to properly take turns 😂

Id love to hear it from you guys who have beaten this game. And for those who beat it on expert....my hat is off to you.

I'm wondering if there is anything that documents the hard work the amazing rallysimfans mod team has put into NGP 7

Hey,

old man here, always forgetting stuff ... ie. I forgot to buy triples the last 10-15 simracing years and want to change that this year ;-)

... the triple extension for my current stand has already arrived, I want to order the monitors next. It's been VR/49'' up to now. Sim usage this year was like 90% RBR / 10% AMS2/iracing, so the the triplesetup will be for RBR mostly.

Is running the triple plugin easy, do I need to take care of anything I don't think of up to now? ^^ I tend to buy flat IPS panels (Oddyssey G5 G50D) but curved VA would be cheaper (Oddyssey G5 G55C).

How is the stretching on curved panels? I assume RBR will look better on flats but i'm unsure.

Does anyone here have experience with both or a good reason for one or the other?

thx & cheers

Christmas coming up, been wanting a wheel for quite some time now and I want to buy myself a little gift. I have around 60h in DR2, 30 in WRC10, 150 in AC (plus some other games too), and I’ve been playing with a ps4 controller. It works well, but sometimes it’s the minor adjustments that screw you over, plus I want to add some „sim” that sim racing brings to my experience. I’ve been looking at different reviews, all saying the same: „T300RS is quieter, smoother, stronger force feedback, but the G923 is cheaper, steering wheel is leather not rubber, progressive brake pedal, better software and more buttons (plus a gimmick shift light, everyone knows to shift when car loud). I also heard the T300RS has some reliability issues (opinions vary). The Logitech is 260€, whereas the TM is 330€. Need some help choosing, personal opinions too :))

Is there any sequential shifter and handbrake under 50$??

LE: I figured it out. They actually messed up the axis direction of their button activation. The button was initially set down low on the slider in their software like below so when I went to assign the handbrake in the game it first hit the button mapping. Once I set the button activation at the top where the arrow is pointing, the game accepted pulling on the handbrake as the X-axis rotation with granular control. Thanks for anyone who read the post and hope I help at least one other person in the future :)

https://preview.redd.it/3tpqav2qeg5e1.png?width=976&format=png&auto=webp&s=2f1229298085181c15660389c1f1297fa61db11f

Need some help configuring a cheap aliexpress handbrake on DirtRally 2.

The unit technically has a push feature so than when pushing against you, it registers as a button press (button 1). I think this particular unit was sold by someone who copied the simruito design and messed up the programming of the board as the push isn't registered after calibration. They shipped a faulty control unit, then another faulty replacement, then a third unit that at least works as a basic handbrake, without that push option.

Even with that mess up, in AC it works normally when pulling.

My actual problem is that in Dirt Rally 2, it's got the axis inverted so that when pulling, it thinks it's activating that push button functionality. Sure, it technically locks the wheels at 100% but I would like the fine control of a regular gradient handbrake.

I've tried altering the device id in device_defines_xml of other handbrake devices hoping it would piggyback on that configuration but I'm not sure I got the correct hardwareID out of the entire string or if I should create separate actionmaps for it.

Any idea how I can flip the direction the game maps the axis?

Really appreciate your input.

https://preview.redd.it/8mg0bf926g5e1.png?width=986&format=png&auto=webp&s=2469568685027c4e4f5a079553bc9cd48eb359d5

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https://preview.redd.it/8v6jszv66g5e1.png?width=2500&format=png&auto=webp&s=34f426939f46392879912977627695b4cca8b9a6

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The game is simulation oriented, everything feels really good and the setting is just top notch.

Really recommend it! It's on Steam.

Gameplay trailer: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dZEhi7OTnks

Our second rally for RallyDiaries eRally Championship Season 6 is live! Have fun and good luck everyone!

RallyDiaries eRally Championship: https://www.rallysimfans.hu/rbr/bajnoksag2.php?b=reszletek&bajnoksag_id=306

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Hey all, I'm having an issue in RBR when after playing for some time in the middle of a rally, my FFB just stops, The only thing i could find to bring it back is just restarting the game completely, I have a PXN v99 and I do have to enable the whell through the custom registry in the control settings in the launch menu to play with FFB, any info on why this is happening would be great, i cant seem to tweak the settings and fix it but maybe im missing something. Thanks in advanced!

I had to figure this out on my own. So, I thought I'd post about it.

I'd come to the conclusion that unlike in track racing you don't need heavy FFB to stay connected to the road in rally. My main objective was actually just to keep control of the car. And I couldn't do that if every time I hit a bump or went around a corner I had to fight the wheel. This was especially important because I'm using a sequential shifter and have one hand on the wheel at times.

So, I would turn my Self Aligning Torque down and make the wheel really light. But it still didn't feel good. I still wanted to feel the torque and bumps, I just didn't want to have to fight the wheel. I ended up taking another look at Wheel Friction, having previously written it off as a useless effect that just made my wheel heavier.

I figured out what Wheel Friction is actually doing is holding the wheel steady. I turned it up more than I thought was prudent and suddenly I could control the car again even with higher Self Aligning Torque. It didn't try to jerk my wrist when I went over a bump or around a corner and I could spin the wheel to its max rotation without worrying about it not wanting to come back the other way. In other words, my wheel was no longer trying to kill me. I could still feel the torque and bumps, but they no longer controlled my wheel.

TLDR: Wheel Friction is a bit like power steering when set properly. Balance control with feel for ideal results. Don't listen to the F1 bros with super stiff brakes and 20 nm of torque. Rally is its own beast.

Name: Chunker Munkers Age: 2 1/2 Years Old. Hometown: Somewhere In North Carolina Down in the bottom right of you look closely we have a backseat betty chilling out.

Hi guys, I am having some troubles drifting continuously with RWD cars in RBR. While I can drift on individual corners, I can't do multiple donuts for example. I tried different things, throttle early-late, strong-weak, but one way or another I either spin the car or I don't have enough power, I can't find a balance. I am not a pro drifter, but I have no problem with drifting in AC, no matter if it is a front engine drift car or a stock mid-engine car. I mostly drive AWD cars in RBR, for fun I decided to try drifting and I am stuck with it. Are there any people among you who can drift on AC and RBR ? Can you please give me some tips ?

Hi, I recently discovered on RBR that visually I can’t see the weight transfer. Im having high FPS the games feels too smooth. I thought maybe I could motorise the seat belt and feel how much I brake is applied.

I wonder how much force would be reasonable and not too much to brake my collar bones 😀 Did anyone did similar things and know maybe which kind of motor to use?

[video below] I'm using RBR RSF, first time on a wheel controller, I've put in a couple of hours in the Rally School, now I'm doing the first advanced lesson, handbrake turning.

I'm using a Renault Clio R5. When I see the demonstration I just don't get how the guy slides as if on sand. But that's not the main problem. Right now I'm trying to understand why when I'm exiting the corner the engine shuts down even though I'm always keeping the throttle at least 50%. The RPM just slides to 0...

I'm using the clutch pedal as handbrake btw.

I've been itching to ask also another question, I've been using the 2 metal plates behind the wheel to gear up and down without using the clutch, and it seems to work ok, does it automatically press the clutch in the background?

https://reddit.com/link/1h2t8rl/video/nn5usufd2w3e1/player