/r/selfreliance
Welcome to Self-reliance!
This community is a place to discuss experiences, photos, articles, guides, life-hacks and bits of knowledge on how to be self-reliant, we have the aim to increase a bit more our knowledge in different areas.
Self-reliance is a broad concept, it is our intention to be a platform of knowledge and educational sharing of skills that may give individuals some sort of independence for their lives.
Who we are
This community is a place to discuss experiences, photos, articles, guides, life-hacks and bits of knowledge on how to be self-reliant, we have the aim to increase a bit more our knowledge in different areas.
Self-reliance is a broad concept, it is our intention to be a platform of knowledge and educational sharing of skills that may give individuals some sort of independence for their lives.
Visit our wiki to see a selection of our posts or click here to see our All-Time Posts.
As we are a helping community please be respectful and also avoid the use of memes or jokes.
If you are asking a question in r/selfreliance we ask you to write [Help] or [Question] in the beginning of your post title.
Who we are not
We are not an authoritative source of information; formal expertise, experience, training, preparedness, well-being and safety should be your own responsibility - ultimately that is what self-reliance is about!
We are not "lone wolf" promoters. In most scenarios, you are more likely to be better off with a group of people who help each other rather than being alone - remember, different people have different skills. Also, historically we have thrived by having communities working together - which is why it’s still important to work together while sharing your knowledge and skills with others.
There is nothing wrong in asking for help. Self-reliance is not isolation.
Note: no politics, religion, end of the world/collapse, or agenda based submissions/comments.
Self-Reliance
Being self-reliant allows you to survive the harshest of winters and the most brutal of summers. It gives you a sense of agency over yourself and your decisions. And while it isn’t an excuse to never seek help from others, it means you are no longer at the whim and mercy of those who may have other plans for you.
In practice, self-reliance can look like any number of things. Being able to depend on yourself to meet your basic needs (and those around you) is one of the greatest feelings in the world, and doing so ethically is even more essential. In this community we cover different areas:
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/r/selfreliance
by Niki Jabbour
I live in a region where winters can be long, cold, and very snowy. But, I still enjoy a homegrown harvest from my vegetable garden year-round. The key to a successful winter harvest is to know the right vegetables to grow in winter and pair them with the right season extenders. That means growing cold tolerant crops in structures like cold frames, mini hoop tunnels, greenhouses, or polytunnels.
If you’re new to winter vegetable gardening, start with just a few crops and a cold frame or mini hoop tunnel, experimenting with what works best in your region. Climates milder than my zone 5 Nova Scotia garden, may find success with a simple length of fabric row cover floated over crops on PVC or metal hoops. You can make your own fleece tunnels or buy a tunnel kit for mini hoop houses for quick assembly.
I need more protection in my region so I add a layer of polyethylene film on top of my fabric tunnels to shelter kale, collards, leeks, and hardy salad greens in winter. In colder zones, gardeners should use insulating structures like cold frames and stick to the hardiest vegetables (kale, scallions, mache, and tatsoi for example) to ensure success.
It’s also important to understand that the growth of most vegetables slows once the day-length shrinks to less than ten hours a day. For me, that happens in early November so I need to make sure my winter vegetables have reached a harvestable size by that time. At that point, my cold-tolerant vegetables stay tucked in their season extenders waiting for me to harvest.
There are many cold hardy vegetables that can be enjoyed during the cold winter months. I’m not trying to grow tomatoes, peppers, and basil in unheated structures in winter. Instead, I’m growing cold tolerant crops like root vegetables and leafy greens.
No self-respecting winter garden is complete without several varieties of hardy kale. In fact, as the temperature drops in late autumn, the flavor of kale improves. We grow kale two ways – as a mature crop for soups, sautés and chips and as a baby green for tender winter salads. ‘Winterbor’ is a beautiful and delicious kale that grows three feet tall with deeply curled blue-green leaves. I also enjoy growing ‘Red Russian’, a classic variety with vivid purple stems and gray-green leaves. This is the variety we like to use for kale chips.
For years I’ve tested dozens of varieties of lettuce in my winter cold frames and tunnels. Lettuce is definitely one of the very best vegetables to grow in winter. I’ve had great luck with hardy varieties like ‘Winter Density’, ‘Red Salad Bowl’, and ‘Winter Marvel’. But, I have recently been experimenting with Salanova® lettuce varieties and I am in love! These baby-sized lettuces form dense rosettes of tender green, red, or burgundy leaves. They’re beautiful, tasty, and have performed extremely well in my unheated winter polytunnel.
We affectionally call our winter carrots, ‘candy carrots’ because they’re so sweet after a couple of hard freezes. Like kale, beets, leeks, and many other crops, their flavor improves after a few frosts in late autumn. We sow seed for our winter carrot crop from late July through early August, and deep mulch the bed in late November or early December with shredded leaves or straw. This insulating layer is topped with an old row cover or bed sheet to hold it in place. Whenever we want to harvest, the fabric and mulch are pulled back and we dig as many sweet roots as needed. Best bets for winter harvesting include ‘Napoli’, ‘Mokum’, or ‘Bolero’.
Asian greens are another plant on the list of best vegetables to grow in winter. There are so many awesome types of Asian greens available to gardeners through seed catalogs. We grow different ones in spring, summer, autumn, and winter, and I’ve found the best ones for cold season harvesting include pac choi, tatsoi, mizuna, and mustard greens. These are very fast to grow and offer a range of foliage textures, colors, and flavors.
‘Evergreen Hardy White’ is a cold season superstar in our winter frames and tunnels. This extremely hardy variety produces long green tops with tender white stalks. I direct sow the seed in September, and the first harvest usually takes place by mid-November. With protection we harvest flavorful scallions all winter long.
Also called corn salad or lamb’s lettuce, mache is one of the top vegetables to grow in winter. The plants form two to four-inch diameter clusters of leaves that are harvested whole by slicing the stem off at soil level. After a quick rinse, the rosettes are tossed with a simple dressing and enjoyed as a salad green. ‘Vit’ is my variety of choice and is direct seeded in late summer. Mache self-sows easily, almost too easily, so pull any leftover plants in spring if you don’t want mache popping up throughout your garden.
Spinach thrives in the cool, shorter days of autumn and well into winter. I sow the seed in my cold frames and polytunnel in mid to late September, as well as in a few open garden beds. Those beds will eventually be covered with polyethylene topped mini hoop tunnels when autumn switches to winter. Try ’Giant Winter’, a variety bred for winter harvesting or ‘Tyee’, ‘Melody’, or ‘Winter Bloomsdale’. I’ve had good success with harvesting all of these throughout winter.
Arugula was the green that first introduced me to the possibilities of winter harvesting, and all these years later it’s still one of my favorite cold season crops. There are two main types of arugula you can harvest in winter; wild and garden. The garden varieties like ‘Astro’ are very quick growing and have strappy leaves. Wild arugula is slower growing, but more cold tolerant, with deeply lobed leaves. It also has a more robust flavor. We seed arugula every few weeks starting in early September to ensure a non-stop supply of this peppery green in our cold frames and polytunnel. The harvest begins in October and continues until we run out.Harvest as a baby crop or allow the leaves to grow full-sized.
Other vegetables I harvest in winter include Swiss chard, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, and broccoli. Plus, many herbs can be enjoyed during winter. My favorites include thyme, parsley, mint, oregano, cilantro, and sage.
Source: https://savvygardening.com/vegetables-to-grow-in-winter/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ZxxA689GHY&t=529s
Personally, I like the Corona fixed blade saw. Most of the Arborists in my area use Corona fixed blade saws.
This was a very controlled and objective test, like all of his are....take it for what it's worth....
I suppose I have multiple questions, really, about logistics of basically returning to a primal living style.
[In North America] (US & CA) is it 'illegal' to settle in a spot long-term as per the "14 day" rule on campsites, even if youre in the deep wilderness where nobody else is around (so you're not "hogging" a spot or anything) and if so, would it actually matter if you did that, if you're unlikely to ever see anyone else to begin with?
Would it be illegal for any reason to live in the wilderness long-term if you're always moving around and not breaking this rule? (For instance would you need to have a 'legal residence' somewhere)?
Would anybody make a fuss if you didn't have a legal residence or over any other issues, and try to track you down or something in the wilderness?
Having weathered more hurricanes than I care to count in Southern Mississippi, I've learned a thing or two about emergency food preparation. After Hurricane Katrina changed everything for us in 2005, I discovered that freeze-dried food storage isn't just about survival – it's about maintaining some normalcy when everything else is chaos.
During those long weeks after Katrina, when power was out and supplies were scarce, my family was thankful for every meal we had stored. But we quickly learned that not all emergency food is created equal. The commercial freeze-dried meals from Mountain House that we had stored were a godsend – especially their beef stroganoff, which became a comfort food during those trying times. However, some of the cheaper alternatives we'd stockpiled sat untouched because, frankly, they were nearly inedible.
For those just starting out, I highly recommend checking out comprehensive reviews at https://consumerrating.org/emergency-food-supply/ before making any major purchases. This site helped me avoid some costly mistakes when I was rebuilding our emergency supplies after Katrina.
This experience taught me that while commercial freeze-dried meals are convenient, they're not all worth your hard-earned money. Mountain House remains a top choice for taste and quality, but they're expensive at roughly $10-13 per pouch. ReadyWise (formerly Wise Food Storage) offers more affordable options, but in my experience, their meals can be hit or miss. Their breakfast options are decent, but some of their entrees lack the flavor profile that makes you want to reach for seconds.
Augason Farms and their warehouse sales has become my go-to for bulk storage. Their prices are reasonable, and while not every meal is restaurant quality, their soups and breakfast items have gotten my family through several smaller emergencies since Katrina. During Hurricane Ida, their cream of chicken soup became an unexpected favorite among my kids.
But here's something I wish someone had told me years ago – you don't have to rely solely on commercial options. After experimenting with my own freeze-dried ingredients, I've found that creating custom meal packages can be both cost-effective and more enjoyable. I now keep basic freeze-dried ingredients like chicken, vegetables, and fruits from various suppliers, which I can combine with my family's favorite seasonings and recipes.
During Hurricane Sally in 2020, we actually preferred our homemade freeze-dried gumbo mix over any commercial option. There's something comforting about familiar flavors during stressful times, and being able to control the seasoning and sodium levels makes a huge difference.
That said, I still maintain a supply of commercial meals for immediate emergencies. When you're dealing with storm damage and stress, sometimes you just need to add hot water and have a meal ready in minutes. It's about finding the right balance for your situation.
For those just starting their emergency food storage journey, I recommend beginning with a variety pack from Mountain House or ReadyWise. Sample different meals before committing to bulk purchases – trust me, this will save you money and storage space in the long run. Then, as you become more comfortable, consider incorporating some DIY elements using freeze-dried ingredients from companies like Thrive Life or Augason Farms.
Remember emergency food storage isn't just about having enough calories to survive and it's about maintaining some quality of life during difficult times. Whether you're facing a hurricane in Mississippi or preparing for other emergencies, having food you actually want to eat can make a world of difference in maintaining morale.
After nearly two decades of hurricane seasons, I've learned that the best emergency food plan combines both commercial and homemade options. It might take some time to find the right balance for your family, but the peace of mind is worth the effort. And when the next storm comes (because in Mississippi, there's always another storm coming) you'll be glad you took the time to prepare properly. Please heed my advice and experience. ✌🏻
Some aspects of wilderness survival, camping, studying and so forth, does this make sense? Could this increase self reliance in some ways, and when would it be worth it?
Winter is coming. Though we may feel like the warm, sunny days will last a little longer, the first frost and early darkness have a way of sneaking up on you.
And if you have a homestead, your winter preparation is a bit more involved than the average home or landowner. Even if you live in an area with mild winters, you must prepare your home, garden, and animals for the changing of the seasons.
Grab a planner, get organized, and prepare for winter on your homestead.
For most people – homesteaders or not – the single most important aspect of winter preparations is heating. If you use electric or gas heat, your job is to simply check the furnace and turn it on.
If you have a wood stove, however, you have to check to make sure it’s in good condition and ensure you have enough firewood. Get a sufficient amount of firewood chopped and stacked, then store it in a dry place with easy access. You may want to invest in a wood storage bench that you can refill with chopped wood regularly.
Preparing food for winter is extremely important with homesteading. If you try to produce as much of your own food as possible, you should begin drying and freezing food to last the long winter months.
If you choose, supplement your stock with dried goods like rice, oats, lentils, beans, and frozen meat. Then, if there’s a bad winter storm, you know you have plenty of food to get by.
Before winter hits, do a check of your windows and doors to see if they have tight seals. Drafts can lead to a lot of cold air coming in and your heated air going out, but a little extra insulation can keep it cozy.
Passive solar heat is helpful for keeping your home warm in winter. The southern- and western-facing sides of your home will bring in some sunshine, so keep those curtains and blinds open!
Getting your winter supplies ready is a must before the frost hits. Grab your winter coats, gloves, scarves, boots, headlamps, and any other winter supplies you need and keep them near the entry to your home.
Part of your winter food stores should come from the last of the winter harvest. Even if the first frost has hit, you can harvest medicinal roots and greens after the frost.
You should also save seeds from your crops before the frigid winter sets in. Leave some plants in your garden and let them mature, then harvest and dry the seeds for a truly self-sustaining garden in future seasons.
If you live in an area with a mild winter, you may be able to grow cool-weather plants. It takes a little work, but you can grow beets, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, carrots, celery, and collards in cold weather. In fact, some of these plants will grow more flavorful in the cold.
Depending on the type of garden you have, you may need to take extra steps to put your garden to bed. With a no-till garden, you can leave the garden and soil undisturbed and just cut the veggies at the soil line.
Compost everything – except nightshades – to reduce the risk of soil-borne diseases and fungus. Then, give the garden a layer of compost, leaves, and mulch.
If you have a lawn, trees, and shrubs, they need care before winter. Instead of cleaning up all your fallen leaves, rack them into your flower and garden beds and mulch around your trees and perennial plants. This will not only feed the soil but provides protection from the harsh winter weather.
You will also need to bring in your yard furniture and supplies, including your grill, lawn chairs, patio furniture, and children’s toys. You should also turn off your sprinkler or irrigation system.
Winterize your equipment, such as the tiller, lawnmower, or tractor, by running the fluids down, having them serviced, and storing them in a covered area. You may want to add a vehicle cover for extra protection.
All of your animals should have a stockpile of feed and hay to get through winter. Even if you have access to a feed supply store, having ample extra feed ensures that you won’t be short if there’s a bad storm or moisture or rodents destroy some of your supply.
Secondly, put out your heated waterers, heated buckets, or trough heaters and make sure the cords are in good shape.
Chickens need some extra care in winter. Deep clean your coop and put down a heavy layer of bedding. All soiled bedding can be recycled to the garden to protect and fertilize the soil.
Throughout the winter, do chicken health checks to look for mites or other parasites. Damp conditions can lead to skin conditions or frostbite, so your chickens should have regular checkups.
Goats should also have a deep cleaning and extra bedding before winter. They don’t need extra heating unless you have kids, elderly goats, or goats with a medical condition. Before winter hits, have your vet come out to check on the health of your goats.
Hooves are important to watch through winter. The snow and rain can create damp conditions that will rot hooves. Goats may be prone to respiratory conditions like pneumonia during the winter.
Rabbit hutches should be insulated well to hold in the heat. You can use thermal blankets to block any drafts during severe snowstorms or extra cold days, but otherwise, insulation is sufficient.
Unlike larger livestock, it’s difficult to heat rabbit water bottles. You will need to switch their water out throughout the day to avoid it freezing.
If your homestead has bees, they will need some extra care and attention leading into winter. After that, they basically care for themselves.
Each winter, take off the supers and put each hive down to one box, which will have some frames of honey. Place some pollen patties and fondant on top of the hive body in a feeder.
Then, the bees will produce winter bees that are larger and more robust to care for the queen. Their job is to keep her warm, which is why it’s best to reduce the size of the hive and the space to heat. If you’re in a really cold climate, add a hive cover.
If you keep other animals on your homestead, such as llamas, pigs, horses, or exotic animals like deer and quail, the basic rules still apply. Prepare for winter by cleaning out these animals’ shelter and providing adequate bedding, stocking up on feed and hay, and adding heated waterers.
Otherwise, the care of these animals comes down to preference and your climate. For example, some people prefer to blanket horses and llamas over winter, but you can leave them to grow a winter coat.
Unfortunately, winter can come with nasty weather and severe storms that can lead to power outages or road closures. With all your animals and yourselves to feed and care for, you should have an emergency kit.
When you’re first starting out, you likely won’t be growing at the scale needed to last through winter into the next growing season. It may take a few seasons before you have enough growth and an efficient process for winter preparations.
Take what you can from your harvest and freeze it, dry it, can it, or preserve it. Along with the produce from your garden and local foraging, you can purchase staples like potatoes, meat, and vegetables to freeze. If you raise animals for food, have them processed for winter. Remember that you can freeze dairy products like milk, butter, and yogurt.
The hardest part of winter homesteading is feeding a wood stove and watering some of the animals. Otherwise, if you’ve prepared well, winter homesteading isn’t much different than the rest of the year.
Once you’ve prepared your home, yard, and animals for the incoming winter, spend time enjoying the last days of autumn with your family. Then, you have all winter to get your plans ready for spring planting and a fruitful harvest.
Source: https://fairwaystables.com/homesteading/how-to-prepare-for-winter-on-your-homestead/
By chemical products, I mean things like vinegar, alcohol, lye, soap, varnishes, fertilizer, adhesives, creams, minor illness remedies, paint, cosmetics, cleaning products, and so on - generally things that are usually bought at a store, but can also be mixed or brewed at home.
For uses, something that looks like the following guides on this reddit
https://www.reddit.com/r/selfreliance/comments/15utf3b/guide_7_uses_for_hydrogen_peroxide/
https://www.reddit.com/r/selfreliance/comments/146bisq/an_az_of_incredible_uses_for_everyday_things/
E.g., "pharmacognosy", "herbal medicine", "traditional medicine", and books referred as "herbals" for useful medicinal plants, household remedies, the best extraction method for a specific plant/affliction, and best method of application.
I just mostly want to know any relevant keywords I can use to more effectively search resources on my own.
Thanks!
Article by Chelsea Gregori
Chicken keepers wonder every year how to keep chickens warm in winter weather. Cold climates aren’t something I’ve been familiar with growing up in Florida, so moving to Kentucky brought a new experience when the sunny days turned to cold temperatures. Although I wasn’t a new chicken owner, I was worried about the chickens the first winter I was here.
Always keep an eye on the forecast for cold weather to be as ready as possible for extreme winter weather on your homestead. Are the single digits accompanied by a winter storm, bringing heavy snow or ice?
You’ll need to check the projected high and low temperatures, but more importantly, the wind chill. Cold winters can also bring strong winds. This can make it feel much cooler outside than your weather app claims in the colder months.
Here are some tactics, tools and actions you can do and take to keep your chickens warm this season.
Chickens are capable of regulating their body temperature with their downy feathers so it’s very unlikely they’ll need additional heat once colder temperatures arrive. Regardless, it’s still good to be aware of their comfort levels and know what to do if unusually severe winter temperatures in the coldest months make an appearance.
How do you know if your chickens are cold? If your flock of chickens are all huddled in one corner, they might be trying to generate warmth. Your chickens will puff their feathers out to trap body heat, as well, when they’re cold.
Keep a close eye on your flock during extreme weather conditions. Be prepared to address anything that looks off.
These 17 tips on how to keep chickens warm in winter weather will help you keep happy and healthy chickens this winter season. And the good news is you’ve probably already done most of them since many of the tips are generally the best way to take good care of your entire flock, anyway.
Some chicken farmers don’t believe in providing supplemental heating if you have a healthy flock. There are truths to that.
For example, chickens molt in the fall to prepare their bodies with warm, fluffy new feathers just like wild birds do. A chicken’s feathers provide much heat and extra insulation on cold nights.
These new feathers act as natural insulation when the cool weather comes. Additionally, you’ll see a decrease, or complete halt, in egg-laying in the winter. During this time, chickens are channeling all their energy into staying warm and giving their egg system a rest. You’ll see a change in egg production a few times throughout the year when raising chickens.
If for some reason your flock didn’t molt this year, or maybe partially molted for whatever reason, and you have extreme cold days headed your way, then you might want to take extra precautions and provide supplemental heat. If a partial molt has occurred and you know your chickens typically molt completely this time of year, make sure to check their overall health for parasites (you can start by checking their chicken poop).
Chickens will burn calories quicker while trying to stay warm. Consider using a gravity feeder to provide your flock with consistent nourishment and a good quality feed. Providing grain all 24 hours a day can supplement these lost calories.
Some folks also like to hang vegetable piñatas, provide black oil sunflower seeds or even give warm mash of fermented feed and scratch grains.
Your flock will eat more in the winter, especially if you don’t increase their protein intake. If for some reason the weather cools and your flock won’t eat, you might inspect them for illness.
As always, make sure your livestock has fresh water in a clean water bowl (or container of your choice). If your chickens have a chicken run, make sure they can access their food and water during the day. If you don’t want to have to hassle with pouring hot water over their frozen drinking water in the morning, you can place the reservoir in their warm coop. Be sure it’s far enough away from the roosts, and not roost-able itself.
My husband put a heat bulb in a cinder block hole, put a smaller/thinner cinder block on top and his 5-gallon chicken waterer on top of that and it never froze. It even provided warm water for his flock!
It was a super easy way to prevent the water from freezing when we were away for a few days. His flock laid fresh eggs all winter and his chicken house stayed comfortable during the cold winter weather.
It’s a good idea to increase protein intake during the cool months when raising chickens. Providing amino acids helps to maintain egg production and support new feather growth. If you can’t provide free feed for your flock, consider buying nicer feed with a higher protein count.
You can also provide a small cracked corn snack at the end of the evening and suet cakes. For the DIYers out there, you can make your own suet cakes for your flock while you’re snowed in the house!
This might be one of my favorite suggestions from a social media group. If you’re worried about your flock and need a list minute type of fix, tent a thermo emergency blanket somewhere in the coop. This provides a warm place for them to go, with ventilation on both sides.
Additionally, it’s not a fire hazard in any way! Just make sure it’s secure so it doesn’t fall over anyone and suffocate them. If you don’t have any emergency blankets handy, try using a thick tarp.
I hesitate to suggest using a heat lamp because it can be extremely dangerous fire hazards. With that being said, I do know that folks still use them. In addition, I occasionally use them as well.
Heat lamps provide sufficient amounts of warmth. This is why they’re so popular when raising chicks. If you do make the decision to use a heat lamp in an enclosed space, do it responsibly. Check that there is the smallest risk of fire possible.
Your heat lamp needs to be away from anything flammable and secured to a base. If you have a small, enclosed coop I do not recommend taking the risk of using a heat lamp.
A great alternative heat source to heat lamps, a heat plate or heat mat could be an option. Depending on the size of your flock and chickens, it might be the best route to take.
The warmth of a heat plate is more centralized, making them a difficult option for large flocks and coops. If you have multiple heat plates, suspend them higher off the ground. This way your flock can walk underneath for heat.
I always recommend using a heat plate when raising chicks.
Another internet find, folks have been bringing their crockpots to the cool weather rescue. I don’t suggest leaving a crockpot plugged into overnight in the coop (fire). But during daylight hours under supervision, this is a great idea.
All you do is plug in your crockpot, add water, and turn it on! It’s best to use a low setting so your flock doesn’t hurt themselves. In a pinch, this would be a great option to help keep chickens warm in extreme weather.
Here’s a quick old-timer tip from Google (can’t say if I recommend this or not as I have never tried it out):
“According to old-timers, cayenne pepper can be added to your chickens*‘ feed in the cold months to help warm up your* chickens and boost egg production. … Cayenne also helps with circulation, which can prevent frostbite in the winter.”
Not for the faint of heart, but for the true chicken lover. This unique approach is sure to put your chickens in warmer conditions.
Bring them inside and put them in a pop up tent for the night! You might need more of a dome tent for larger flocks.
Just add some bedding and a roost and you’ve got a basement coop! This option is a great option if you’re dealing with the other end of the weather spectrum – fire and smoke.
This is something that every henhouse needs, no matter the weather. Plan to seal any drafts and possible leaks in your coop before exposing your chickens in the winter or adding artificial light.
Chickens need great ventilation while minimizing or completely eliminating any drafts. Drafts can chill even the fluffiest of chickens and poor ventilation can lead to respiratory problems from ammonia fumes.
Make sure your winter chicken coop has a top vent, and sufficient pine shavings, wood shavings or wood chips. Warm air rises, so you want to make sure when the heat rises that enough of it stays in to warm the coop, but also escapes to prevent dangerous fumes.
We want ventilation, not air leaks. This is especially important if you plan to practice the deep litter method. Always add dry bedding and monitor how much moist air is being generated from the heat.
The type of material your coop is made out of is important because different materials have different amounts of thermal mass. Clear plastic will have a low thermal mass (will not absorb and store heat well) while tougher materials (think brick or concrete) will have a high thermal mass.
If you’re thinking “this was a great article until Chelsea just told me to build a brick chicken house”, please know that I AM NOT suggesting that. But I AM suggesting that you evaluate the structure of your hen house if you live in a cool climate.
For example, we have a plywood structured hen house, vented at the top, but it is raised off the ground (as seen in the picture below). Even though the roosting bars are high off the ground and we have sufficient bedding, the cold ground can still work against heat retention.
In the winter, we add a tarp to prevent wind chill and cold air coming up through the floor. Similar to why mobile/modular homes have under-pinning, and why the floor is freezing when they don’t! A hay bale or straw bales would also work placed around the bottom of your raised coop.
Another controversial topic, deep litter composting is an old tradition used by many farmers to this day. By practicing deep litter compost, you’re practicing a form of hot composting involving chicken manure.
If you do it successfully, your deep litter compost should provide natural, non-flammable heat and a warm bed in your henhouse and provide great garden material come spring.
The most important thing to keep in mind with the deep litter method is the ratio of carbon versus nitrogen. Whenever you add nitrogen (green materials), add at least 3-4x that amount in carbon (brown materials). This way you don’t end up with a soupy, stinking mess on the ground (or rodents).
Another pre-winter project, but still a great suggestion. Consider adding a sunning room off the side of your coop to trap heat!
If you pursue this adventure, keep in mind you still must maintain good ventilation to prevent ammonia buildup. Fresh air is crucial for the health of your chooks. Depending on the side of your flock, consider building a room with a glass or sturdy plastic ceiling.
You can insulate the walls and add a small door for easing comings and goings. If constructed well, this room will be able to hold some amount of heat. Providing warmth for your flock.
Bedding is another form of insulation in a coop, and it’s not very easy to add too much. Most northern folk in the winter add a little extra cushion, regardless of the forecast.
Adding extra bedding to the coop is an affordable, simple thing to do to keep chickens warm in winter weather.
If on the off-chance you have a broody winter hen, you can consider insulating their nesting box. By using materials you probably already have, you can provide extra warmth for mama and her eggs – for free.
Use cardboard, newspaper, and even extra straw in the nesting boxes for extra warmth.
Your chickens still need sunlight in the winter. In fact, some folks supplement light during the shortest days of the year. The jury is still out on whether that is 100% healthy or not. The best thing to do is do what’s best for your flock.
Either way, your chickens should have the option to get outside during the lighter hours of the day. Providing them a windbreaker means they can seek shelter from strong winds while still having access to fresh air. The walls of your coop will work well depending on which way the wind is blowing.
You can stack bales of straw on top of each other or put up a tarp. Whichever method you choose, make sure the strawbales are secure and the tarp is, as well.
If your chickens are reluctant to go outside the hen house, try putting bedding on the snow outside. Chickens have snow blindness and sometimes need a little “push”.
It’s recommended to shovel an area first, and then put bedding down. This gives you peace of mind protecting their feet. It also gives them something to scratch at to generate body heat!
All chickens need to be able to roost. You should teach your chickens to roost when they’re still in their brooder. Depending on the roost setup, roosting builds strong leg muscles and a pecking order.
Additionally, when chickens roost in the evening, it allows them to get close to each other. By roosting closely to one another, they’re able to generate and share heat.
When providing roosts, you want to use the most beneficial shape. By choosing a flat-surfaced perch, your chickens can sit down completely and cover their lefts and feet with their fresh downy feathers.
If you’re worried about serious frostbite, adding a thin layer of petroleum jelly to your flocks combs and wattles might help. Depending on who you talk to, chickens are either very prone to frostbite or very cold hardy.
Either way, it’s best to be informed about frostbitten chickens. Be sure you educate yourself on frostbite in backyard chickens and what to do about it.
When all else fails, just buy more chickens! More chickens mean more body heat, right? 5 chickens roosting will generate more warmth than 3, so why not have 15 chickens? We all know chicken math is real.
BUT SERIOUSLY. A few chickens huddle together will produce a lot of body heat. If you have only a few chickens and have been interested and can afford more, then this would be a great reason to do it.
If you only want, or can only have, a few chickens and you live in a very cold climate, then you may have to utilize more than one of these tips to keep your flock warm enough in the winter.
It’s always great to have information and tools in your toolbox during extreme weather. From frostbite to preventing eggs from freezing, the winter months can bring quite the challenge and it’s crucial to keep our flocks happy and healthy.
Make it a habit to check chickens’ combs, chickens’ feet and the light bulb you might have added under their water reservoir (or anywhere else in the coop). Even chickens with large combs and feathered feet can become victim to frost bite and should be inspected.
Stay informed and stay aware, friends. How do you keep your flock warm in the winter?
Article Source: https://growwhereyousow.com/how-to-keep-chickens-warm-in-winter/
Couldn't find a subreddit that directly related to the question but figured there was probably some people here knowledgeable about it.
How viable are pedal generators for small scale power? Also, does anyone know where you can buy one that has more than 2 reviews. To elaborate, I'm specifically referring to what is essentially a hand crank generator that instead operates via foot pedals. I went down a rabbit hole from home solar power (not very viable for me, I live in an apartment) to multiple different means of home green energy and if the power production advertised on in some places is even a little accurate than it seems like it would suit what I want it for.
I just returned from volunteering with disaster recovery in North Carolina. This situation has made me very aware of how inadequate my experience is to be able to useful when disaster strikes. I would like to take as many classes, trainings, and certifications as I can to have knowledge and ability in the future.
Some things I'm working on: First Aid/CPR Search and Rescue Wilderness First Aid Basic Wilderness Survival FEMA IS Certification CERT Training
I would love to have more medical knowledge. I'm considering doing an EMT training but I don't know how useful that would really be if we don't have access to equipment. Considering doing an Emergency Medical Responder type of training instead.
I would love to hear any feedback or suggestions on what would be the most useful and can be completed while also working full time. In other words I'm not going to seek a degree especially since I have no plans to do any of this as a paid career.
By Survival Jack
Winter is coming, which means it is time to start winterizing and preparing for the new year. While winter on the homestead is a time of rest and planning, there is still much to be done. The problem is that, in all the seasonal fun, we can lose track of the things that need to be done in the colder months. If you don’t get these things done, you will regret it come spring. Your crops will suffer, your animals won’t thrive, and you will miss out on opportunities to practice sustainable living.
Don’t let these winter chores fall through the cracks!
The cold weather won’t allow you to do as much outdoors as you do during the other seasons on the homestead.
Many homesteaders enjoy this season because they get a bit of rest. However, don’t rest on your laurels. Use your downtime to learn new indoor homesteading skills. Consider learning one of these skills during the winter months.
Candle making
In addition to using your extra time to boost your homesteading skills, spend some time reading books to boost your homesteading knowledge.
October is when you will do the last of your harvesting and the beginning of your winter preparation.
As the cold weather approaches, it’s time to make sure your crops and livestock are prepared to survive.
In the midst of holiday celebrations, take some time to do these important tasks around the homestead.
Hooray! A new year is here with lots of opportunities for your homestead to flourish.
Spring is right around the corner, so February is when you wrap up all your winter preparations.
Many of the tasks on this winter homestead to-do list depend on the climate and environment (or your USDA zone) where you live. For example, most homesteaders wait to harvest brussel sprouts until after the first frost. This will vary by location.
Make sure you adjust this list based on where you live.
Source: https://survivaljack.com/2022/10/month-by-month-winter-homestead-to-do-list/
Losing blood far away from proper medical care is never a good thing, I’ve been looking into different clotting dressings but can’t determine which type would be best for a given application. I’ve seen mostly Kaolin and Aginate based dressings available and I get the impression that they are meant for specific scenarios but anyone with first hand experience giving some insight would be much appreciated.
Edit: OMG, ChatGPT is so infinitely more useful for providing information. I may keep Reddit for idea exposure but I think learning anything directly from here is probably at an end. And I’ll post what I got as a response, in the event anyone else goes looking for clotting gauze as an emergency essential to add to a first aid kit.
AI response follows:
Both kaolin and alginate are used in wound care products, especially in gauze designed for clotting, but they serve different purposes and applications: 1. Kaolin: • Clotting Mechanism: Kaolin activates the body’s natural clotting cascade by initiating clotting factors in the blood, which leads to rapid clot formation. • Applications: Kaolin is typically used in trauma and emergency settings where rapid hemostasis is critical, such as in military field kits, EMS, and emergency rooms. It’s especially helpful for high-flow arterial or venous bleeds. • Advantages: Fast-acting and highly effective for severe, high-pressure bleeds. • Limitations: It may not be as gentle on sensitive or delicate tissue and isn’t ideal for superficial or slow-bleeding wounds. 2. Alginate: • Clotting Mechanism: Alginate is derived from seaweed and interacts with sodium in blood to form a gel-like substance that absorbs exudate while promoting clotting. It doesn’t activate clotting factors directly but rather works by concentrating platelets and cells at the wound site. • Applications: Alginate dressings are commonly used in wound care for moderate-to-high exudate wounds, such as ulcers, burns, or post-surgical sites. They’re particularly useful for keeping wounds moist while managing exudate and promoting natural clotting in less urgent situations. • Advantages: Alginate is gentle and maintains a moist wound environment, which promotes healing and can be left on the wound longer. • Limitations: Alginate isn’t as fast-acting for severe bleeding as kaolin and is not typically used for emergency or high-pressure bleeding.
Summary
• Kaolin is best for fast, emergency clotting in cases of severe bleeding.
• Alginate is better for moderate to light bleeding, especially in wound care settings where moisture retention is beneficial for healing.
Choosing between them depends on the urgency of the bleeding and the type of wound.
We also have 2 freezers packed with veggies, fruit and cider. A lot of work but very satisfying to feel food secure. There’s a hanging screen tray with garlic in pic too.
I'm looking to start preparing for a situation where access to food and supplies might be disrupted for an extended period of time, such as during a conflict or other major crisis. What types of foods have a shelf life of at least a year and provide good nutrition? Additionally, what non-food essentials would you recommend for a stockpile? Any advice on specific brands or storage tips would also be helpful. Thanks in advance!
?
A tsunami is a series of enormous ocean waves caused by earthquakes, underwater landslides, volcanic eruptions or asteroids. A tsunami can kill or injure people and damage or destroy buildings and infrastructure as waves come in and go out. Tsunamis can:
IF YOU ARE UNDER A TSUNAMI WARNING:
Prepare NOW
Survive DURING
Be Safe AFTER
Source: https://www.ready.gov/tsunamis
Guys - I'm in the north east but we only get about 10-15 freezing days in a year. Are there any all in one car emergency kits one can buy or you'd just have to go out buy individual items to make it up? If it's the latter, few questions
- any long-term food that doesn't spoil so I don't have to replace it every 6 months?
- same question for water
- any flashlight with a battery type that doesn't drain out through winter & summer
Thanks
I’ve never enjoyed mushy bland veggies. I prefer to roast fresh. As my garden expands I’d like to begin canning to prevent waste.
How do I prepare canned veggies so they taste good when they’re eaten?
As the weather cools and days grow shorter, it’s time to start preparing your farm for the upcoming fall season! Fall brings a variety of challenges for farmers, including changing temperatures and unpredictable weather. Planning ahead can have a huge impact on your readiness and help to ensure continued success of your farm. Below are 10 tips to help you prepare for a smooth and efficient transition to fall.
Begin by removing any dead or dying plants and debris from fields, garden beds, and walkways, composting what you can to enhance the soil for next year’s crops.
It's a good idea to go through your property and dispose of anything you no longer need or use. Remove any scrap metal and other clutter. A thorough cleanup not only helps prevent disease and pest infestations, but also makes your farm more organized and welcoming to visitors! You’ll be glad you did come spring!
To prepare your equipment for storage, start by giving each piece a thorough cleaning. Remove any dirt, debris, and residue that may have accumulated during the growing season. You should also lubricate all moving parts to prevent rust and other forms of corrosion.
Once your equipment is clean, drain fuel from tanks and carburetors to help prevent any deterioration that could cause starting problems in spring.
Make sure your equipment is in good repair. This includes checking all belts, hoses, and electrical connections for wear and tear. You should also inspect tires and replace any that are worn or damaged.
Don’t forget to cover equipment against dust and moisture. A good quality cover will help keep your equipment in top condition so it’s ready to go when you need it next year.
Fall is a crucial time for farmers to harvest and preserve crops. Depending on the crop, you may need to harvest manually or with the use of machinery. In either case, properly storing and preserving your crops will ensure they last longer and remain fresh.
There are various methods to preserve crops, such as canning, drying, freezing, and fermenting. Consider the type of crop and its specific requirements when choosing the preservation method and keep in mind that each method has its advantages.
To start planning next year's crop rotation, review the crop yields from this year to identify any problem areas or successes. If you have livestock, think about incorporating a crop that can serve as forage or pasture.
You may want to consult a local agricultural extension agent or farmer's cooperative for advice on crop selection and rotation. They can provide valuable insight into what crops grow well in your area, as well as any potential challenges to look out for.
Ensuring animals have access to fresh, clean water and plenty of hay and grain is essential to their health. It's important to start providing extra feed in the fall to help your animals build fat stores before the winter – so they have enough insulation and energy reserves during the colder months.
To keep your livestock happy and healthy, it’s also the perfect time to schedule a visit with your veterinarian to check on their overall health and update any necessary vaccinations.
Stock up on bedding materials such as straw, sawdust, and shavings. These materials are essential for keeping your livestock warm and dry.
In addition to bedding, it's important to have other essential supplies on hand including salt and mineral blocks, water trough heaters, and any medications or supplements your animals might need.
Store all of your winter supplies in a dry and secure location. You don't want your feed and bedding to get wet and moldy, or for any supplies to be damaged or stolen.
The first step in winterizing your barns and buildings is to assess their condition. Inspect the roof, walls, and doors for any signs of damage or wear and tear that may need repair. Make sure all the windows are sealed properly to prevent drafts and ensure adequate ventilation.
Insulate your barns and other buildings to prevent heat loss and save on energy costs. Adding insulation to your walls, ceiling, and floor will help keep your livestock warm and comfortable, while also helping to maintain a consistent temperature in the barn.
Don't forget about your water sources, which can easily freeze in the colder months. Make sure your water pipes and troughs are well-insulated to prevent them from freezing and protect them from damage.
When it rains heavily during the fall your farm's drainage systems can be overwhelmed with excess. This can cause standing water in low-lying areas, increase the risk of disease, and cause damage to your fields.
To avoid these potential issues, clear out any debris, leaves, and other materials that may have accumulated in your drainage systems. This can be done manually or by using a high-pressure water hose to blast out any blockage. Check the condition of your drainage pipes and ensure they're free of cracks and leaks to ensure water flows freely away from your farm.
Have your heating system inspected and cleaned by a professional? This will help identify any potential problems before they become bigger issues later in the season. A well-maintained heating system will also operate more efficiently, saving money on heating costs.
Don’t neglect to store fuel for your heating system. Whether you use firewood, pellets, or oil, make sure you have enough on hand to last through the season.
Additionally, remember to check your smoke and carbon monoxide detectors to make sure they are working properly. These detectors are essential for keeping your family and animals safe while indoors.
You've planned for the care of your animals, buildings, and equipment for the winter, here are a few safety guidelines to keep yourself safe:
A. Wear protective clothing and equipment, such as gloves, boots, and safety glasses, when working with machinery or handling animals.
B. Use caution when climbing ladders, working on roofs, or operating heavy equipment.
C. Keep fire extinguishers and first aid kits in a handy and prominent location.
D. Don’t operate damaged or malfunctioning equipment.
E. Stay alert for slippery or uneven surfaces, especially when working outdoors.
F. Create a communication plan in place for emergencies or unexpected situations.
G. Keep children and pets away from hazardous areas.
H. Be aware of weather conditions and adjust your activities accordingly.
By taking these precautions and reviewing your safety procedures regularly, you can minimize the risk of accidents and injuries on your farm during the fall season.
Source: https://www.fm.bank/blogs/blog/2023/09/18/10-tips-for-preparing-your-farm-for-fall