Hey all, I have recently (1.5 months ago) replaced my radiator and hoses in my sl2 and I keep getting coolent leaking from the hoses by the clamps. Very small leaks, mostly noticeable when car gets up to full tempurature. I have noticed coolent 'steam' coming from hood after long drives about 2 weeks ago.

Haven't tried new clamps, current ones are 'worm gear' type. Readjusting one of the clamps about 2 weeks ago got ride of the 'steam' issue, but still small leaks.

I'm thinking I might just be driving the car too hard/ much, or the old clamps are just not up to snuff for max temperature conditions.

Any thoughts or recommendations on what to do is appreciated! If I didn't add enough detail say so too. :) Thanks

Hi, I have a 99 saturn sl2. Car has been having a rough/high idle that will drop to normal after warming up. The other day I was driving (had the heater on for 15 mins) stopped at a red light and the car kind of stumbles when the idle lowered. Didn't stall, drove fine to where I was going. I parked and ran the car for a bit and when the idle was normal you could feel the car stumbling or shuddering a little big. No loss of power/no stalling/no check engine light and no codes.

I have previously cleaned the throttle body but did not change the idle air control valve. I was wondering if this is maybe a bad TPS, IAC or the PCV valve maybe?

Thank you for your time.

I got a 2005 4 speed automatic saturn ion 3 the frame is junk. motor and automatic trans are good. I found a body that has a Manuel but the motor doesnt run. Is it just as simple as dropping my engine in. Connect all the wires and presto?

Hey guys, I'm currently doing a clutch change on a 96 sl2. What kind of fluid does the MP3 take and how much?

Does anyone have problems with the power pump in the last 2 years i have replaced about 3 times. Can anyone explain why this keeps happening.

My battery frequently dies, no indicators on the dash. Usually after idling, even if for a short period of time, got a new alternator and battery not too long ago. What could be wrong?

I have a 97 SL one last night I came out and noticed that the horn kept beeping every second or two very softly. The battery was dead. I jumped. The car started at nothing happened with the horn came out to my car this morning. I could hear the horn going off and the battery was dead. Seems to be happening every few seconds when the car is off and the horn sounds really soft. Where should I start and how should I start diagnosing what’s causing this?

I want to change the amp for a new one but have no idea where it is or how to change it. Tried YouTube but got nothing

Having a problem with my tire deflating around the rim the dealership is telling me it's from the weight clip on the rim, as far as I know they are oem clips and was just wondering if this was an actual issue and I should change the weight or if it could be something else?? They scrubbed the rim already and tried tire seal but it won't hold air for more than a couple days

99 SL2 automatic without ABS, by the way.

When my old boy hasn't warmed up yet, a bunch of things loudly vibrate, most intermittently, depending on ambient conditions, but there was always a particularly loud source coming from under the left dash that I was never able to find until yesterday.

One thing unique about this car is the brake pedal has always had to be pushed another ~½cm after the brake switch is toggled before resistance from the hydraulics is felt. I actually liked this because it allows me to tap the brake light switch without actual applying the brakes, but if I had to choose I would rather have a silent pedal.

The brakes and brake switch otherwise work fine. The BTSI solenoid I repaired last, the brake lights, and of course the cruise control module and PCM are all responding to the brake switch signal as expected. The pedal instantly springs back and there's still a gap wide enough for me to stick my left foot under the pedal with the wheels locked. In this clip, which is pointless to without sound on, I'm pushing the pedal until I feel hydraulic resistance and then show the rattling sound it makes when bumped from the side. I'm betting it's that side-to-side floppiness that's responsible for the noise but the change in pedal feel is something I can live without.

Before I pull the dash apart for the five hundred and fifteen trillionth time, is this something that can likely be fixed just by tightening some nuts/bolts, or is it more likely, as I'm afraid, that the problem is the brake switch is broke in a particular way that doesn't affect functionality?

Some people liked the inside so heres the outside of my 09 outlook. Probably wrapping the car in a month so any ideas for color or specific film wouldn't hurt. I'm thinking a black metallic of some kind.

I’m going for the “badass 4cyl” build so I’m trying to keep it as close to the stock 2.2l L4 I have. So would supercharging or turbocharging help me with that? It’s a 2003 ion 2

It wouldn't start and run , just died on me , replaced fuel filter, crank shaft position sensor, and fuel filter and new plugs, now it's flooding out and won't start running, what did I miss

I am researching an older S-Series. I have the VIN. Wondering if there was a way to lookup what it came with? Like leather, sunroof, power windows, etc... Thanks.

Hi I own a 1995 Saturn 5-Speed. My cables keep breaking. They aren’t twisted. I put them in all pretty and shit, and they break every 2-3 months. It’s not a cheap part. But it’s a Chinese part (no original parts available). Am I installing it wrong or am I just dealing with poor craftsmanship? I don’t want to get rid of my old girl, but it’s not worth it to me to buy this part over and over again. Also gonna probably try making my own redneck attachment so I will post that, but in the meantime I could use some advice thanks.

Re did my dash with a new wrap some of yall might enjoy. It's an 09 outlook xr