Hello! So weird question. 2005 Saturn Vue had an antitheft system in it that seems to be throttling the engine down. It will turn over and drive, but it will only go like 15 mph maybe and has no power at all, it just slogs along. Had someone look at it and they said that it appears that a “third party” had somehow manipulated or tampered with the system remotely? Has anyone experienced something like this before? Is there a way to just yank the whole thing out of there or reset the antitheft system?

someone requested a video of what my 2007 2.2L saturn vue with a muffler delete sounds like. lol. cut stock muffler off and slapped on an "evil energy" straight through muffler tip (louder/not as muffled sounding and has more of a growl to it in person, just have a crappy old iphone mic lol)

https://reddit.com/link/1h5diz3/video/ckt7cx2csj4e1/player

Anybody have any suggestions for wheels? 2002 lw300

I have a 2001 saturn sc1 sohc, does anyone know the torque spec for the valve cover bolts?

I am in need of help to get a whipper arm for my car. Driver side arm snapped now need to find a new one but the part is discontinued everywhere

Does anyone know how to remote start it? I clicked the lock button twice and held the restart button on the key but it doesn’t start the car. I live in Minnesota and I want to warm my car from my home.

JK, kinda. Been meaning to check for rust on that side after finding an old dime under the left back seat ate a pea sized hole in the metal but I didn't expect that. Although it's obvious serious, the picture makes it look way worse than it is. 98% of those debris is paint flakes with rust powder on the back. The actual surface is still relatively smooth and even in the pic you can still see unoxidized patches of bare metal, so me pulling back the carpet was probably a terrible idea.

I'm thinking if I sand that rust off with some 80 grit sandpaper and repaint it asap it'll be fine for a few more years as long as I keep it dry, right?

My boy is a 1999 SL2 by the way.

I'm like 99% certain I won't go through with this but I'm still looking to trade in my BMW for something that's still sporty looking but cheap (hence why I like the SC2 so much), but with all the prices I've seen, this seems absurd. Or is it? I get that it's low mileage and all but with the age of the things it just doesn't make sense.

Car in question is here

Has anyone ever tries to build the l61? Everyone hates on it and for good reason there's so many better options out there and it starts with a lsj or even an lnf to stay with 4 bangers but has anyone ever tried to push some good power out of this? I've been reading gm took a l61 and stress tested them woth nitro to see how far it would go and it pushed to 250 without needing anything. Is this true? I found a gm "build guide" for the l61 and it goes on and supercharges the thing but the stress test got a turbo set up made for it so I'm just confused like I said there's better options but unfortunately I want this one. Thanks!

Where is even the location of the horn I took off the whole bumper off my 09 Saturn aura xe and still can’t find itt.!

I could barely get werch on this

Specifically, when the valve cover gaskets around the plug wells leak.

When I did that my last spark plug change, two of the wells had spark plugs soaked in oil.

This afternoon I replaced the valve cover gaskets with a fel-pro set. I'll drive it tomorrow after the dabs of RTV have a chance to set up.

But I was wondering, where does the oil that comes in from the valve cover gasket o rings go? Does it somehow seep down past the spark plugs into the chamber? Kind of hoping so, because maybe that would account for some of the oil loss. Yes, I know all about the potential for valve seals and piston rings.

Saturn ion 2, 2006 - Anyone know what fuse that might be to look at? I’m not very educated on it but would like to see if that’s my issue. If anyone knows please let me know Update: went and got a fuse because the 7.5 looked burnt but not blown and my speedometer still didn’t work, BUT this morning on my way to work it worked like it never stopped, I’m suspecting possibly the sensor is starting to fail or Mabye it was a one time thing. Update 2: it stopped working again and only works on my way to work in the morning again. So odd 3 days of only working in the morning. 3rd update: it’s worked all day today to and from work. Hopefully it keeps going but if not it’s clearly a failing sensor

So weirdly phrased title because I think there are multiple things wrong with my auto 99 SL2. Anyway...

First, we have the "park lock cable", which physically connects the ignition switch to the shift lever assembly. When everything is working properly, the cable is supposed to mechanically prevent the ignition switch from being turned to LOCK unless the shifter is set to P while also preventing the shifter from moving out of P unless the ignition switch is NOT in LOCK.

Next, we have the BTSI solenoid, which is connected to the 10A TURN fuse circuit whenever the ignition switch is in the RUN or START positions and the brake pedal isn't depressed. Technically, it's the brake switch interrupting the normally closed circuit going through slot A of its black connector and slot D of its grey connector that turns the BTSI solenoid off, allowing the lever to move. See this diagram. Personally, I think it's stupid to have a locking mechanism that requires constant power supply, but on the other hand, it's nice that a broken safety feature doesn't disable the vehicle.

Since at least 2023-01, I've been able to turn the ignition switch to LOCK and remove the key regardless of the shifter position. I know the date specifically because I was staying at a hotel with a really steep parking lot and I was so tired and in autopilot that my brain considered the act of me pulling the parking brake lever 5 clicks like I'd always done but only when parking on an incline as shifting from D to P. When I removed the key, I suddenly had the strangest feeling, and that's when I noticed I'd already rolled backwards about 10 feet. By the way, I still haven't fixed my parking brake,which at present requires 7 clicks to fully engage. When properly adjusted, a single click on the lever should put significant resistance on both rear tires and 5 clicks should be enough. It hasn't been a priority since now whenever I park on an incline, I first put it in N to make sure 7 or 8 clicks is enough to hold it.

I'm actually pretty confident in my understanding of the way the PCM interprets the shift lever position. If there was anything wrong with the transmission range switch, it wouldn't set the parking pawl and there would probably be P07xx codes. Just seems unlikely to me that my park lock cable and BTSI solenoid would both quietly fail without causing any other issues. Then again, the test procedure is supposed to be part of the regular maintenance routine...

What are some good things to check on a 04 ion to keep it going ? I bought this thing for 800$ 2 years ago thinking it would just be a temporary car .. well it ended up being my only daily till this day .. it needed nothing but gas this whole time .. since it showed me this much reliability with no $ invested, id like to think about putting a couple bucks into it an make it as reliable for the next 2 years ..

Does the timing chain ever need replacement? Any re calls on tensioners or guides ?

Its got 155k

This came on in my 2002 lw300, is it coolant? It runs good and doesn't get hit so I'm not sure

Hey all i recently posted about a camshaft position sensor code on my 200 Saturn sl2 only to find it doesn’t have one, shortly after making the post the car was only cranking and not starting but o finally tracked it down to an issue wkth my Fuel system, it just not getting any pressure to The fuel rail when i start it but it did when i put it to the run position, and she tried to start after that so i at least know everything else is doing what its supposed to. My guess is either a regulator or the pump is bad because i can hear the pump running at the run position but cant tell when its cranking. So im hoping if anyone has a fuel system diagram or anything like that that i can use to nail what the actual fault is. Any wisdom and advice is greatly appreciated. Thank you and happy thanksgiving!

So I have the option to either purchase a manual sw2 with semi low mileage or a sw1 postal with kinda crappy paint, needs a new hood and 170k on the chassis and I’m not sure about the engine. Not sure if postals are actually worth that much more to the point it’s just better to take it than the lower mileage sw2 with better paint and what not. Just looking for general opinion

I think the S-series (98 and older) have two different objects in the circuit diagrams called some variation of that profoundly idiotic title "evaporative emissions purge solenoid", but I'm only like 97% sure because the diagrams themselves are only about 97% accurate. According to my understanding, they both use connector 12052643, which is supposedly red sealed metri-pack 150. Both have a pink wire in slot A but one has a dark green/white wire and the other a solid white wire. One's location is "on the fuel filler neck", which I'm guessing means I would have to take the rear quarter panel off to see it, which I'm definitely not gonna do.

The other one - which I thought was the only thing using that stupid ass name - I believe is similarly inaccessible, somewhere around the center of the firewall close to the ground. So yeah, I'm just curious. What the hell are these things, assuming there even really is two of them and the fuel tank version is some kind of error.

wht B version

grn&wht b version

Have you guys got any experience buying replacement headlight bulbs? I want a color changing one, but I was hoping for a less cheap/ugly looking one. And certainly not 300 for a pair. 1996 Saturn SC2

In talks of getting a 96 saturn sl2 for 1k. I was wondering if this car would be a good investment, not looking for a perfect car just a beater that can drive on the highway and get me from point a to point b. Any suggestions or advice? Is it a good investment?

Got a 99 SL2 here that has been driving me up a wall for the better part of a year. Clutch won't engage when car is running. You can start it out in a gear and drive it in that gear, but once you shift out of a gear, you can't put it in any gear again unless the car is off.

So far since I got it, I replaced the transmission, clutch, flywheel, shift cables, shifter bushing with a metal replacement, slave cylinder and checked the synchros. Still no dice. At this point I'm genuinely stumped and out of ideas. Thoughts?