Hi there,

I have an 03 Saturn Vue, 2.2L VTi, 123k miles. I’ve had it since 2020 and when I got it, it had about 20k miles on it. Serviced regularly.

I went for a drive this morning and the service engine light came on, followed by the Reduced Power light shortly after. I filled up with gas and the reduced power light went off. However, after driving again later this morning, the reduced power light came back on. My mechanic isn’t open until tomorrow, but I left him a message. I’m wondering if anyone has any ideas what the likely cause could be?

I’m honestly terrified of the transmission going out on this car and am aware it’s gonna happen eventually, but not sure if this would be related to that. Thank you!

sigh… I’m back here again with my 96 sc2. I really shouldn’t be putting this much money into the car but it’s all i got.

So the issue is when i try to start the car, you can hear the click of the starter and the dash lights turn on yet it won’t turn over ??

I was thinking the battery or alternator is bad, but have no clue, any info helps

The manifold and exhaust recently rusted out in my (otherwise mint) 1999 Saturn SW1.

I'm looking to upgrade and supe it up a bit, I need amazon links specifically though.

I'm not sure what would be compatible/best, advice and links specifically appreciated.

Thanks!

Yo just a quick question, do the 2001 l200 have the "easy adjust" on the back? Or do I have to take the drums off to adjust them

What transmission will fit on a 2000 lw1 2.2, it does not have the stock trans in it, it has one male and one female half shaft, looking for the half axle that fit! I have the tag numbers, but I cannot find anyone that can read them.

https://preview.redd.it/dw4lsye3jjzd1.jpg?width=4000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8e8e0045e23dbb6ca6bf35185d9435b2ab8b8f8d

https://preview.redd.it/ewam6xe3jjzd1.jpg?width=4000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=43ee71408da02ac23c670d6d74936832f8fee7bf

Got this car a few weeks ago. It was running fine, but it is now throwing a P0301 code. Spark plugs and wires have been replaced. The code went away but it reappeared a drive later, in which the car started jerking every time I shift gears and it gets worse the longer I drive. I’ve noticed a strong egg smell coming from the car. Would it be the cats? It’s not throwing a P0420/430 so I’m not so sure. The O2 sensors are new as well.

I finally replaced my 1999 SL2s plugs this morning and it of course didn't go like I was expecting. My wires/boots were in great shape and the wells were clean and looked dry, but once I unscrewed the plugs and pulled them out, the threads of all four plugs were completely soaked in oil.

Here's some screengrabs from the video I made as I pulled #1 plug, you can see the motion blur of a big drop of burnt oil. As you can see, the actual electrodes look extremely worn out but everything is still there, dry, and the right color. This shows the plugs after I dried the oil off the threads. I tried to preserve the appearance of the tips but I did lightly touch them with my fingernail and can confirm those deposits are baked on.

So yeah I guess I'm asking, since none of the relevant videos I know of actually show the plugs being removed, is my valve cover gasket just totaled shot? Wouldn't there be more oil in the wells if it was the case? The boots make a very satisfying pop, so I know they've been sealed and that oil can't be from occasional spils, so I'm wondering if it's possible the valve cover gasket is actually fine and the oil was from 25 years/145k miles of high pressure vapors slowly sleeping past the plug and condensing. That might explain why it was so burnt since the oil in the case and on the dipstick is pristine.

By the way, I had no codes or noticable symptoms. I only replaced the plugs because I know for a fact they haven't been changed since I bought this car in 2008 with 68k miles on it. When I first started it up after changing them, the rpms were mildly fluctuating by 50 at 1hz for about 10 seconds after settling to idle (50°F cold start so 1250-1300) but then that stopped and I couldn't tell the difference from yesterday morning. The only objectively new things was no smoke at all during the 20 minutes of stop and go rush hour morning traffic and on this really steep hill I normally have to slowly increase throttle while climbing it at 35 mph to keep the trans from needlessly down shifting, I actually started speeding up. My guess is those initial pulses were the PCM recalculating.

i have a 2007 saturn arua SE and when i bought it this little cubby thing ( to the bottom left of the steering wheel, below the knob on the dash)was broken and i would like to get a replacemnt but i cant find anything online, any help?

https://preview.redd.it/f6lkofuqn7zd1.png?width=760&format=png&auto=webp&s=d744461fea1f861c456cde8fd519de341d1381fb

Had this car for awhile gotten the trans fluid changed abt a year ago and it looked fine, when this came up checked the level and it’s not leaking. Any ideas if it’s a module or my tranny is starting to go?

Has had a well treated life but spins tires a decent amount so not sure if that’s killing the trans

Guys, good morning, I would like to ask for a recommendation, I want to upgrade the brakes on the Saturn SC, I have already posted previous photos, I am restoring a Saturn SC in Brazil, I want to upgrade it with hyperventilated disc brakes, which set do you recommend for this model?

It’s kinda trippy to see one of these Saturns with those useless tiny narrow doors without handles

I'm assuming the "NAT" 18 way connector's R and Q slots power the bulb. Specifically, R would be positive and Q negative, with the light coming on in wagons normally when the DK GRN wire running from Q to the liftgate switch on circuit 146 gets connected to ground.

A simple test would be to check for continuity across terminals R and Q of the connector. If it's there with a functional bulb inserted and not with it removed, then rigging the telltale to work for the trunk lids of sedans and coupes are open would be a piece of cake.

By the way, by "gen 2", I mean 97, 98, or 99. 98 is when the digital odometer was added and 96 has a different RKE system, I think, so the slots might not match, although I will see after I do some stuff this morning.

04 saturn ion 3 2.2l manual my tac either works or doesnt i cant find what sensor reads RPM and sends it to the tac is it crank shaft position sensor or?

any help is apricated

also the gauge cluster works fine i know its a sensor cause when i use the function test on my scan tool it works perfectly

Looking to stay away from remanufactured rack and pinion . What a good brand to purchase new for 2002 Saturn sl2? Thanks in advance

E: do NOT use any of this info. I've already found a major mistake in the FSM and my initial assumptions about the slot next to the RADIO fuse were wildly incorrect. I'm just going to wait until I've totally mapped out the internal circuits with confirmation.

I'm mapping out the internal connections of the 1999 IPJB, primarily so I can reduce the load on 402 and at this point, I have done everything except draw the actual copper interconnects. Specifically, I have a graphing book with the wires on one page, the inner circuits on the next page, and the fuses on the next. This allows flipping the middle page around to see both "sides" and also allows easily overlaying the fuses and wires.

Already I've found several things:

• circuit 4, which begins with the 14g brown wire going from the ignition switch to BLK68[F12] (btw, get used to that notation), has an additional empty fuse slot. If you take the front cover off, you'll see two pins next to the RADIO fuse's. Just put new sleeves on those pins and put a wire in BLK68[A12] and that wire will be hot only when the key is in RUN, just like the wipers and radio. Note that circuit 4 is already borderline overloaded so I strongly recommend using this only to power a relay coil.

• circuit 458, which nominally connects the trans fuses to 402 when the fuel pump relay is energized, nominally exits the IPJB from BLK68[B2]. However, the GRY68[A7] slot next to the fuel pump wire in A8 is directly opposite the other FPUMP pin.

here's the map so far

If you aren't familiar with the design of these fuse boxes, that probably looks completely incomprehensible, but I'll assume it does even if you are familiar. The first thing you need to know is the vertical arrow points up and the horizontal arrow points forward - toward the front of the car. This isn't really important when looking at the photos I took but when I'm rapidly flipping the papers around trying to visualize a 3d circuit it's extremely helpful.

The grey pencil dots represent silver pins, which cross through the entire board, while the orange ones represent gold pins, which are unique to one side. Inside the actual boxes, the silver pins are connected by uninsulated copper wires that fit into tight grooves in the sides of the pine while the gold pins are connect to thick gold wires built in to the substrate and like the silver pins, a bit of gold wire on one side means on the opposite side of the board is also gold. Some of the silver pins come in horizontal pairs and I'm like 95% sure based on pictures that there's a single triplet but I won't know for sure for a while.

Not exactly sure how the gold pins connect physically to the gold wires. I'm guessing there are 4 unique "gold circuits": 402, 300, 3, and 4; each beginning with a wire running from the ignition switch to the leftmost column of the back of the IPJB (what I mean by BLK68). Specifically, F5 is 402, F10 is 300, F11 is 3, and F12 is 4.

I have an 03 ion with a 2.2 that needs a crankshaft or an engine. I've noticed parts for the 2.4 are cheaper and seem more attainable. Has anyone here done the swap or know of any issues? Just exploring ideas.

Right now I am working on fixing the door locks and currently trying to find replacements for Strattec parts 690048 and 690049, I have sent an email to the aftermarket division but have yet to hear back if anybody has anything on where I can find replacements for these it would be much appreciated

Just looking for advice, just replaced the shifter cables on a 5 speed Saturn vue. The cables are basically resting on top of the exhaust outlet. Should I position them differently? I can’t find anything on where they’re intended to rest. They do have a heat shield around them, it just worries me considering the heat might cause premature failure.

97 SW2. Car just got a new fuel pump and was running and starting great. Went to start and no crank nothing at all. I've had the chime module under the radio going off randomly when the cars off, no key in ignition, lights off and it will continue to beep. Do you think this could point to a bad ignition switch? Thanks

I should also mention about a month ago I had smoke from under the steering column one time. It never did it again