/r/R53
A subreddit dedicated to the R53 Mini Cooper. This includes the Mini Cooper S from 2002-2006. We also encourage posts of the r50 (2002-2005 base cooper) and the r52 (2005-2008 Convertible Cooper). This sub enables people to share their knowledge, pictures, ideas and experiences with other 1st Gen Mini Cooper enthusiasts.
A subreddit dedicated to the R53 Mini Cooper. This includes the Mini Cooper S from 2002-2006. We also encourage posts of the r50 (2002-2005 base cooper) and the r52 (2005-2008 Convertible Cooper). This sub enables people to share their knowledge, pictures, ideas and experiences with other 1st Gen Mini Cooper enthusiasts.
/r/R53
Man fuck BMW my clutch slave cylinder on my r53 just exploded from sitting, any other parts that would do the same? Don't want that plastic one :(
Per the title really, my coil pack terminals are looking a little crusty so is it worth the extra 50% for the MSD coil pack or is a decent brand name one fine?
Mine has a ~15% pulley, intercooler, injectors so sort-of JCW spec if that matters.
I’ve had a ton of fun with my r53, but i’m looking for a faster car. It currently has 83k miles and i’m planning on selling it in the spring for another car. I think i’ll have roughly 7k to spend in total (car + other cash) by then. What are some cars that are similar with better tuning potential. Preferably I would want an F56, but i’m just not there financially. So what have any of you gone to after you r53, maybe even a car you own along side your mini
Got offered this wheel for $100. It was removed from an r53. Anyone know it?
I’d love your help. I have a ticking noise coming from drivers side (right hand drive) which comes in around 2000 rpm.
It gets louder as revs increase but the noise stops when I push the clutch in to change gear. Once the car is in gear it starts again.
Really struggling to diagnose. Can anyone help?
I can’t for the life of me get this to seat back into the screw/ green gasket fitting. Has anyone ever had this issue. I’ve already broken 1…
Tach goes to 0 & info screen goes blank intermittently. Car runs fine otherwise. Is the tach 💀?
Just had these installed and I’m already impressed with the wet traction. 205/50/17 is the smallest size available and exactly what was taken off, so I knew they would fit. This size makes the speedometer more accurate too.
Per the title - after a few minutes driving sometimes the red handbrake warning light ((!)) comes on and stays on.
The handbrake is definitely fully off, and according to the manual the only other thing it's linked to is the brake fluid level but I've checked that - plenty of fluid, connector is fully home, no damaged wires that I can see.
Is there anything else that could cause it to come on other than a faulty switch/sensor or a wiring problem?
Changed : super charger pully Harmonic balancer Engine mount Belt Plugs
Battery went dead. When attempting to jump start, this happens. Including the fun window dance No new codes. Anything obvious that causes this?
Hi everyone, I went and had 2 worn out tyres changed yesterday that flagged up on the MOT, front and rear passangers. So the tyres wear evenly I asked the tyre lads to put the rear passanger wheel with the new tyre onto the front axle. New tyres fitted and away I go, about 2 miles down the road I get the tyre, abs and dtc lights appearing in Amber. I got to where I was headed, stopped off for 30 minutes and when I restarted the car the tyre light was off, and within 30 seconds the abs and dtc lights went out too. Today those lights stayed out, UNTIL, I took the same route to the same location, I hit the long sweeping bend about 35mph and come to a controlled stop at lights, when all three lights come on again, in more or less the same location they had yesterday. Again I stopped off for the better part of an hour, got back in the car, tyre light was off, and the abs and dtc went off practically in the same place I was at yesterday.
I'm pretty perplexed what's going on here, I've had suggestions of failed sensors and/or bearings, wondered if anybody has had similar experience or any suggestions?
Thanks :]
Looking to order from Amazon
This my my third post about the surging/yo-yoing problem I’ve been having. As it turns out, I was going nuts putting on a smaller belt and examining the tensioner and replacing the bypass valve…all the while, there was just a small hard water plastic tube putting pressure onto the bypass valve actuator arm.
I discovered this by taking a video of the valve while I drove (wedged my phone between the intake tube and frame, genius I know lmao) and watching the video, it’s obvious what was happening.
I tied the hose out of the way and took it for another drive. The problem was gone…FINALLY! I’m praying it stays gone and this isn’t another false hope moment but I literally can’t see it being anything else at this point.
Thank you all for the help and for following me on this insane journey to what should’ve been an obvious problem!
I’ve got an 06 r53 mini cooper s Who has an interment misfire on start up and it only happens when the car starts Changed the coil coil wires and the all the spark plugs but no fix yet ? I was thinking of replacing the fuel pump filter and injectors next any other suggestions of what it could be ?
Any recommendations for interior mods.
Mini started doing this after finishing my clutch job, warmed up fine ran for about 10-15 minutes then won’t stop doing this weird idle thing.
P1242- secondary upstream manifold air pressure sensor to high in deceleration
Additionally car wont let me change gears when running but shifts fine when off.
Anyone know a good way to seat the new bushings onto the control arm, it's just such an awkward shape I can put it in the press or anything.
Any help is appreciated!!
So I recently made a post proclaiming I finally solved my surging/yo-yoing under acceleration. Well…after a couple days the problem is back again! I took a video of the boost pressure during WOT. You can see the boost randomly fluctuating between 10-15psi. When it drops to 10, it pulls way less (obviously) and the supercharger whine drops off quite a bit.
I’m still suspecting a slipping belt, but I JUST put on new heavy duty belt and have triple checked that it’s staying tight. I also made sure the pilot is tight and not able to spin on the supercharger shaft.
The bypass valve is also brand new, a reworked version from GTT mini with “improvements over stock.”
My last and only guess given how sharply the surging occurs is that the crank pulley is out of round and under certain conditions, allows the belt to “skip.” My evidence of this is seeing the tensioner vibrate at idle. So, next up is a solid aluminum crank pulley.
Anybody have any other ideas? Thanks…and sorry for the long post lol
Can anyone tell me what this sound might be
With the belt on, I get a slow/weak crank with no start.
Belt removed starts right up quickly.
Don’t mind the heat shield rattling.
Since I last drove in June, I’ve had the SC rebuilt, new WP installed a Milltek catless header and a new alternator installed. Hasn’t been mapped yet.
Also keep getting a code for internal fault processor ROM
Heya I let my 03 r53 sit for a while because of work and collage and now it refuses to shift into gear when running.
Anyone know why? any help would be great :)