Hi, really new to PCB design, so apologies if this question is dumb/simple. I have a very simple PCB I'm designing in Fusion 360, and after adding PINHD-1x1 holes I'm getting exactly what I want, but I'm noticing the copper pads around the holes are octagonal. Every PCB I see sitting around me right now has circular pads, and since I'll be soldering pogo pins into these holes I was hoping for circular copper pads for maximum contact.

Is there a simple fix to this? Thanks!

https://preview.redd.it/99ziaingi1wc1.png?width=743&format=png&auto=webp&s=0d0baaa3b7833ff3d2d804d7a5165a021de7dce1

Hello all,

I've recently completed the design of a circuit schematic and PCB for controlling an RGB LED string using a NodeMCU ESP8266 WiFi module. The circuit operates on a 12V DC input and utilizes three relays to control the red, blue, and green LEDs respectively. The LED string itself draws approximately 14.4W per meter, and I plan to power a 5-meter long string, resulting in a total current draw of 6A.

In order to ensure proper operation, I used an online PCB trace calculator to determine the required trace widths for the PCB. Utilizing a 1oz copper weight, the outer layer traces should be wider than 3.56mm to handle the current load effectively. Therefore, I used 4mm trace widths for powering the LED string. It might be a overkill since infact each relay powers up one third of the total requirement.

I used bottom layer as GND.

I am open to receive feedback and suggestions for potential improvements or any oversights.

Thank you all.

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https://preview.redd.it/90ad6pydcwvc1.png?width=566&format=png&auto=webp&s=a53e76da49166ad9cfc38854ae307c757bdaa639

https://preview.redd.it/1p5muqydcwvc1.png?width=509&format=png&auto=webp&s=f78d85b5c2e43543b52fd3efda40a106042cca6f

https://preview.redd.it/xyomgsydcwvc1.png?width=1169&format=png&auto=webp&s=c4039f6a1279c263fff6fde171012c7a0fdc35cf

I am really new to all of this and this is my first Schematic i designed. This should be a Step down Converter which takes the 5V Input from a USB-C PD Adapter and Steps it down to 3.3V for my LEDs. It also should have 6 LEDs onboard and has two Connections for PCBs full of LEDs to connect to. The decoupling Capacitor and the Electrolytic Capacitor i added after a recommendation from a different Redditpost a couple Days ago.

I have used the AP63203 Voltage Regulator.

Datasheet: https://www.mouser.ch/datasheet/2/115/DIOD_S_A0007089856_1-2542907.pdf

If all of this works it is for a Project i am working, which is pretty small and thats the Reason for a Custom PCB. And it was alot of Fun to design and learn.

Thanks in advance for the help and if i forgot anything just ask and i will try to add whats missing.

Hello,

I am looking for someone to be able to create a pcb with BOM and Pick and place files so that i can order them from a PCB assembly company complete. I need to combine the RS485 to TTL converter with the SparkFun Thing Plus - ESP32 WROOM (U.FL) . I also need a DC/DC converter added because the project will be powered by 6-36VDC. The input VCC should be protected with a PTC fuse and reverse polarity protection circuit. I do have a PCB board that I created which allows me to solder each of these devices which I have tested and works well for this application. I just would like to have a compete unit instead of my shield/adapter board.

I do not need the battery circuit that is provided on the SparkFun Thing Plus - ESP32 WROOM (U.FL). I also do not need the Qwiic connector. The USB can be micro-B or UBS-C.

I would need (1) VCC (6-36V), (1) 0V (GND), (2) RS485 A, (2) RS485 B, broken out to 5mm screw terminals, so there would be a total of 6 terminals. I also need SPI and I2C from the ESP32 broken out to through hole so I can solder the connections for an TFT display and I2C sensor.

If you are interested, I can provide you with my current schematic which shows what I need broken out and the connections that are required.

SparkFun Thing Plus - ESP32 WROOM (U.FL) - WRL-17381 - SparkFun Electronics

RS485 To TTL Converter Module_V2 - EasyEDA open source hardware lab (oshwlab.com)

For political reasons (increasing support for Russia, human rights, etc, etc) i feel worse and worse about relying on assembly services from China for quick prototype assembly.

Anyone have some tips for good services that are cheaper than western sites?

The context is quick turn around prototyping runs, 5 pcs of modest SMT assemblies with ~100 components maybe. I have frequently been able to get decently quick assembled circuits for 100-500USD from China. Now looking for other options.

Got this built on a PCBA as part of a board.

24V and 3V3 are all good but I'm getting no output (stepper coils aren't energised) from the driver.

At the moment I haven't hooked up the MCU to provide signals but I did put in a square wave from a signal generator to the step pin - nothing happened.

From my understanding of the datasheet, DVDD is a regulated output from the driver, but I could pull it high if I need to. I've got a 3V3 test via I can take a jumper wire from.

Other than pulling some signals high I'm not quite sure what else I've done wrong with this.

Thanks in advance.

Aloha, I was interested to know if anyone in this Reddit is in Hawaii, Oahu?

I’m wanting to etch my own PCB’s but I’m not able to find Ferric Chloride.

When I try to purchase from electronics warehouses, Amazon & eBay, I always get a notification that it can’t be shipped to my location.

So, I’m hoping that someone would be able to help or has other suggestions.

I have a simple question and trying to look for the best way to do it.
I have an 8x32 dot matrix module for a project. But for this project, I need to have a small gasp in between four sections, thus making four 8x8 sections.
I have three 8x32 matrixes as it was less expensive than getting individual 8x8 sections, and it does look like they could be cut down and reconnected using wire, which is perfect for this project.
I'm looking for the best way to cut these down without outright breaking.

I've read about using a dremel or a band saw. A dremel I have and would be fast, but I don't think I have an appropriate cutting wheel, nor do I have a band saw.

My question:
What cutting wheel would be good for cutting through the display's board, or would a hand coping saw be better?

This is a carrier board for the "ProPico" (and technically the Pi Pico without fourth ADC) to make it a modern gaming controller. The board is derived from the Alpakka PCB with enough changes that I think the only things left are a few buttons and the edge cuts. However, it will fit the 3D printable bottom shell, triggers, and back buttons from the Alpakka project.

Notes:

There are no keep out areas under the Pico as I intend to use polyimide tape between them, and routing was too difficult otherwise. The solder jumpers on the back are to bind the back buttons to any of the face buttons without using up a GPIO. The button to GPIO mappings are intentional, It would have been easier to route first and adjust in firmware, but the goal was to maintain this specific mapping. I'm aware this would have been easier to do just build the RP2040 in, but a carrier board was my main goal here. My next build will use the RP2040 and not be a carrier.

This is my first board, but I did have help from a few people in the OS community to fix a lot of newbie mistakes.

ProPico - https://github.com/diminDDL/ProPico

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schematic

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pcb front

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pcb back

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3d front

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3d back

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Does anyone know how to get a S#1, S#L, and L#2 file into a project? My computer messed up during lab and a friend was attempting to send me his.

Am looking for a PCB designer to help me with a start-up project. Had hired someone from Upwork but they flaked out after doing some work which is very frustrating. Any good marketplaces or job boards that might have some options for freelancers?

Hi everyone, this is my friend and I's first PCB design and we wanted to share it to get some advice/opinions. We would appreciate it if you could give some feedback on anything, design suggestions, advice on power distribution, and anything else good or bad. We are very new at this and would love to hear what you have to say about the board. Feel free to roast us so we can learn more about our mistakes.

Project Context: This PCB is just the first stage, designed to get the drone working and flying. We're considering adding FPV cameras (Open MV), infrared sensors, a GPS module, and a Raspberry Pi for future stages. Do you think our current board will be able to integrate these additional systems effectively?

Here’s what we’re particularly curious about:

1. Simulations: Is it beneficial to simulate the PCB using a PCB simulator?
2. Test Points: Are additional test points necessary for efficient debugging or during manufacturing?
3. Routing Flexibility: Should we consider alternative routing options for the pinouts to allow for potential future changes in configuration?
4. Form Factors: Should we standardize the sizes of resistors and capacitors, or are there benefits to varying them?
5. Trace Widths: We're using 0.3mm for traces from the controller, 0.3/0.5mm for traces to capacitors/resistors, and 1mm for 5V traces. Our longest trace length is 130mm for 5V. Are these dimensions fine?
6. Vias: It's been suggested that minimizing the distance between vias is beneficial. How soon should I switch layers after passing other components?

Four-layer stackup:
Layer 1 (Front): Signal

Layer 2: Ground

Layer 3: 3.3V (with a trace for 5V)

Layer 4 (Back): Signal

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Images are included below - let us know if you need better or additional images.

PCB Schematic Root

PCB Schematic Power

PCB Schematic Sensors

PCB Schematic Connectors

PCB 3D View Top

PCB 3D View Bot

F. cu Top half

F. cu Bot half

In1. cu Top half

In1. cu Bot half

In2. cu Top half

In2. cu Top half

B. cu Top Half

B. cu Bot Half

Thank you in advance for your time and help!

Hey guys, my first time here, I want to etch a double sided pcb home but I simply have no clue how can I make vias or even connect a pad on the two layers. Any information can help.

Hello there,

This is part of my very first attempt at pcb design.

I want to make a basic hx711 board with a servo pin input this will act as a pcb relay where a servo connects to this board.

I'm not so sure about the wiring and all the specificities.

Tried to follow this : https://cdn.sparkfun.com/datasheets/Sensors/ForceFlex/hx711_english.pdf

The goal here is to have low noise on the hx711 so it might need something more here ... I also connected rate to ground so it's in 10hz which is better in terms of noise.

I'm only using 1 layer for cheaper pcb.

I hope I formulated everything correctly, thank you guys.

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Top PCB 3D VIEW

Top layer with copper infill

Top Layer without copper infil

https://preview.redd.it/moypc5bzcuuc1.png?width=2728&format=png&auto=webp&s=9f3826784b8bbc5ba0d8a01cfdfd5ebd095fbce4

PinConnections

Main diagram

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Hi all,

I am working on a hobby project to convert a GameCube shell into a PC case for an intel NUC. I wanted to reuse the original GameCube power switch, which is a normally open latching SPST switch. However, the case headers on the NUC require the power switch pin to be pulled to ground momentarily:

NUC Front Panel Headers

I have designed a circuit to achieve this which will replace the original GameCube power switch PCB. I am a mechanical engineer with very limited electronics experience so this was quite the undertaking. I have never designed a PCB before but I have been doing my homework and hopefully what I have produced is passable!

GameCube Power Switch

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Schematic

U1 is connected to motherboard pin 6 (to U3), pin 8 (GND) and pin 9 (+5V). PB4 on the ATTiny85 is pulled high by R1 and connected to the GameCube power switch. When the state of PB4 changes, a pulse is delivered through PB3 for 1s. PB3 is hooked up to the optocoupler which enables header pin 6 to be pulled to ground. H1 is for programming the ATTiny85.

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Working Prototype (without optocoupler)

Here is the PCB layout:

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Top

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Bottom

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3D view - top with components

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3D view - top without components

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3D view - bottom without components

I have a board I designed in EasyEDA. In order to have the through holes NOT get plated, I need to name them all as "pcb.name-NPTH.txt". There are 1521 holes which I need to not be plated so renaming them individually is not sensible. If I select a hole and then choose "select similar" however, the ID field goes away so I cannot rename them all that way. Does anyone know how I can rename all the holes to "pcb.name-NPTH.txt"? Thanks.

I'm seeking a review for the power management aspect of my ESP32 project. The goal is to enable running from the battery when USB power is absent, run from USB and charge when connected, and maintain awareness of battery status. However, I've encountered several issues:

1. The battery gauge consistently shows the battery at 200% full, potentially indicating an incorrect reading from the charger.
2. Controlled 3V3, the idea was to be able to cut off power to peripheral devices when the ESP32 during sleep mode. However, now power is supplied when VOLT_CONTROL is low (i.e., the opposite). Also, the power is not fully cut off (I can see that the TFT backlight is about 50% bright when it should be fully off).
3. There's a minor issue with the vibro motor occasionally starting by itself, suggesting a possible need for a pull-up resistor.

https://preview.redd.it/hdnqzsvi0ouc1.png?width=3859&format=png&auto=webp&s=d203bd6c7635cace9374144dd66174ae8152c33a

Hello,

I have been building this small gadget board based on the Attiny 3224 which purpose is to display little graphics on an oled ssd1306 128x32 screen. It is powered by being plugged into a USB A port but doesn't have any data connections.

I don't have a lot of experience so any feedback is appreciated !

Schematics

Front PCB

Back PCB

3D straight

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3D fantaisy

Thank you !

Hello! I have done some electronics projects in the past, but this will be my first PCB design! Essentially, this is a barometric altimeter based on an ATmega32u4 that will be running on Arduino. As this is my first design, I expect there to be a decent amount of both obvious and nuanced problems with my design, and I hope you guys can help me work through them. Here is some additional information about the project. (feel free to skip the yapping)

This altimeter is intended to be flown in some model rockets that range from mid-power (F motor) to some lower(ish)-high-power (H, J, K motors) ones. This altimeter is a relatively simple one, based on the ATmega 32u4 and Infineon DPS310 barometric pressure sensor, and will just record altitude, store flight data, and serve as a rocket locator on landing. I have created a prototype out of this sensor on an Adafruit breakout and an Arduino Leonardo, and it has worked well but is large and a bit bulky to fit in smaller electronics bays. As such I started to create this altimeter.

Features:

• ATmega32u4 running Arduino
• DPS310 High Precision Barometer (SPI)
• W25XxxCL Flash Memory (SPI) [Haven't decided on which size memory to use yet]
• USB-C Power and computer interface (no Data Transfer Kit needed)
• LiPo Battery Power (JST-PH 2mm) + USB-C Charging and Load Sharing
• Siren (Buzzer) to locate the rocket

Design Considerations:

• I took some inspiration from some other altimeters I have used, namely the PerfectFlite Pnut and Missile Works RRC3
• I am using the ATmega32u4 because I have used it in Arduino projects and because it has a built-in USB
• No mounting holes as of yet. I will add them soon but the rockets I am using to test these are smaller and don't require them
• I plan to add more features (accelerometer, pyro outputs, servos, etc.) in the future but first want to get both my hardware and software working well
• Size and power are very important, tried to match my power reg. parts accordingly to be as efficient as possible
• "Back" of the PCB will be facing up when mounted, and has no parts on it because of 1. The way it will be mounted and 2. that is where the battery will be (look at PerfectFlite Pnut for reference)
• Extra LEDs added for troubleshooting purposes, will be consolidated into one or two later

Please provide suggestions on:

• Power management, mainly my selection of parts.
• Layout (Did things based on this video but had to change things because of space and my design). How bad is it lmao?
• Trace widths and via sizes. How could I improve them? I understand power should be generally bigger, but some more specifics and critiques would be helpful. I tried to use larger power traces where I could but it was difficult with the space constraints
• Any way to program a board like this using less space than 2.54mm headers?
• Anything else that could improve my schematic or PCB?

Schematic

Schematic

Top and Bottom Copper Layers + Silkscreen

Top Copper

Bottom Copper

Top and Bottom 3D Views

Top 3D

Bottom 3D (flipped vertically to match 2D views)

Hi guys,

I'm doing a PCB with a BGA153 footprint for an eMMC device(0.5mm pitch, 0.3mm pad size). Its a simple adapter board, so there are no other components(just a few passives).

From what I've read, ENIG is the way to go due to its superior flatness over other types of surface finish. But i'm wondering if I can get away with the cheaper HASL, or if I actually need ENIG finish on the board?

Could I "clean up" any height differences like you do with solder wick before you hand-solder a BGA? I don't see why that wouldn't be at least as "bad" as factory-made HASL? The eMMC will be reballed prior to mounting(its extracted from another device), so could I perhaps get around any level issues by using slightly bigger balls?

Thanks!

Hi everyone!

I'm relatively new to the pcb world (I've only printed a couple of simple boards) and right now I'm trying to design a keyboard, which for me is a little bit more complex. For the first attempt, I've reduced the complexity and cost by making just a macropad with all the functionalities that I want the final keyboard to have. Before starting with the pcb part, I would like to know that everything should work as intended.

Since a lot of the things I incorporated are new to me, I would really appreciate a review of my schematic. I tried to make it as easy as possible to follow but it is my first time showing my schematics, so probably I can also improve in terms of "schematic visibility". If so, all critics (with respect please) are welcome.

The part I'm more worried about is the power section. I have searched a lot about USB-C but I don't really know if it is gonna work properly. From what I've seen, the usb-c should be able to deliver 1.5A without any special IC. The only thing is that the source should be able to deliver that amount (usb 3.1).

For the rest, all the comments are welcomed. Thank you to all that reply!

https://preview.redd.it/circ8pnl1auc1.png?width=2700&format=png&auto=webp&s=33a2c630d1e7e214697d0a6778cfe17b9af76f8d

https://preview.redd.it/8b4r4l7m1auc1.png?width=3750&format=png&auto=webp&s=3e246ebb2c6f44f8b1d95b56d4a7f4db8f92f0e0

https://preview.redd.it/0md25llm1auc1.png?width=3900&format=png&auto=webp&s=ee2239bd60f6224694b4963a843834780c7a7cbc

First PCB ever designed, please can someone help check it, it is an amplifie

https://preview.redd.it/1mtk2q387guc1.png?width=556&format=png&auto=webp&s=61fe648e42b87407821565066e32219efc801d4f

https://preview.redd.it/ef1fc4md7guc1.png?width=1169&format=png&auto=webp&s=d742de903a6a490df8714fd29bd77b73b9ab33ed