I have to paint window frames up to the silicone cap bead used to seal the window units. How do you paint up to the silicone without getting paint on or and creating a headache down the road?

Thanks!

It is it simply drying at different rates? will extra coats cover?

Does chalk paint stick well to highly polished metal?

I don’t do professional work (I can’t spend all day painting)

I have been painting the same floor plans for 5 years lol

I’m pretty quick at rolling the walls most time I only need to cut in the bathrooms and kitchen and I don’t tape anything

I have a decent paint sprayer So I was thinking spray the big walls 3/4 of the way roll the last 1/4 + back roll then finish the bathrooms closets and everything else with the roller

The prep for spraying will be easy as I have a bunch of shower curtains people have left behind

My questions are

Is covering the floor 4ft from the wall enough for overspray

Will I get paint on the ceiling if I keep my fan 2 ft away from it

Am I stupid for wanting to spray and roll

We are coating this t&g cedar in my shop. One coat of vinyl sealer and one coat of high build clear. The contractor that we are doing it for is wanting it done for 1.25 a foot. There is over 6000 feet here. I was expecting this job to be a little more than double what he is wanting to pay. So I was blindsided when he said he expected to pay 8k for this work. Am I off on my price of 2.50 to 3.0 for a two coat process on this?

Best paint for coverage so I don’t do 2 coats and there’s a dark purple room that’ll probably need it, recommend a white paint and best patch up for smallish holes thank you

I need to paint one section only of an 18 ft wide steel garage door with original factory finish. The section has "wood grain" texture, not smooth. Will wash first to remove chalking and dry thoroughly. Which of these 3 exterior paints (any or all) would have the best color retention (SW Emerald Acrylic Latex, Emerald Urethane, or BM Aura) in AZ sun? Also, I plan to brush. Have seen many comments on how quickly these paints dry. Should I paint the section top to bottom or cut in the perimeter and then brush to fill? Or I can cut in and roll but for such a small area I'd rather just brush.

I am repainting my bathroom and accidentally did the normal interior Sherwin Williams paint first. I want to seal my bathroom ceiling from moisture as there is no fan. Is it possible to put clear Killz on top of this existing paint? Or did I mess up by not using it as a primer? I think the previous owners did prime with Killz but I’d like another layer to be sure.

3/8 vs 5/8 nap roller

Is one better than the other? Which do you prefer? Or does it depend on use case, like wall vs textured ceiling ?

Does a 15mm / 5/8 leave more texture ?

Are microfibre rollers the best? I feel like they leave the least texture on the wall, maybe im wrong .

I'm painting some aluminum closet door hardware. I want a red that is almost black. I was thinking of a dark red spray paint with a dark tinted clear coat on top. Maybe I'm just making things up, but is there a product like this?

My highly intelligent ex girlfriend put up this thing on my wall. It is essentially cardboard hot-glued to the wall. I’m wondering how I can get this down with minimal damage as I’m a renter 🤦‍♂️

Hi! I'm looking for a recommendation for wall,l and door paint, for rooms in a biotech laboratory facility. We will need to regularly wash and sanitize the walls and doors with a damp mop, using a dilute hydrogen peroxide based sanitizing product. Surfaces will need to be resistant to the dings that could come from the mopping process itself, as well as to repeated cleaning product application.

Walls are drywall, doors are metal. Both currently painted with Benjamin Moore Regal Select Interior Acrylic Paint, but we clearly need something tougher.

I'm looking at Scuff-X semi gloss, Advance high-gloss, or COMMAND Waterborne Acrylic Urethane - Gloss. Would you choose these, or something different? I'm the facilities lead, not a professional painter, but may end up doing this painting myself - so ease of application is a factor. I’ll need to roll-on, I don’t have a sprayer. This is an indoor facility, so fumes are also a consideration. I care much more about toughness of final product than aesthetics. Thanks in advance!

I recently refinished an old Handrail, Balusters, and Newel posts. Use BM Advance Satin. Sanded well with 150, primed, sanded again with 220, then two coats of BM Advanced with light sanding of 320 between coats. Running a box fan for the first hours over railing system in 70 degree home with ~45% rh. Waited 48 hours to apply second coat, and touched up 24 hours after second coat.

Project came out really well, and paint laid great. Handrail is so smooth, like a fresh stick of butter.

I also detail my own cars and use a Ceramic Coating, which is like a micro layer of glass over the car, which can be applied to the plastics, glass, and trim as well....it does not discolor or visible chip. It does require some understanding and experience in application and polishing. I've also used it on shower stalls with a high degree of success.

Not knowing all the intricacies of interior paint products, would there be a reason that this would not work on interior paints just like it does on most other products to provide an added layer of protection/durability, especially on a high traffic handrailing?

Appreciate all feedback.....

https://preview.redd.it/ftpc33gto5yd1.jpg?width=528&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3940ec50629be1ed291de103769f52a4cacd431c

https://preview.redd.it/6bouy2gto5yd1.jpg?width=588&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6dfee11b351ba109de49c792e52b4ca4acb12d7d

https://preview.redd.it/iv4o23gto5yd1.jpg?width=729&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=94f8f45726c802bd37b944379345cc89823c91a8

https://preview.redd.it/68ha03gto5yd1.jpg?width=447&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f4bbeeb96b58979d57f1b3d7e638b83a0db844e3

I'm a handyman running my own business and have recently been taking on larger jobs. I have a client asking for an estimate to paint the interior of their house (roughly 4000 Sq. Ft.) and they want every room painted except the laundry room, powder room, and closets. I've done many one room painting jobs before and I do a professional job, but I've never had to quote for a job of this scale and I feel a bit out of my depth. I don't want to give the client some absurd estimate, but I also don't want to low-ball myself.. for context I work alone, but I keep up a good pace. I forgot to mention but I'll also need to do some prep work (remove led strips, outlets, art, photos, etc.) I hope this is an alright place to ask this, I wasn't sure where else to turn as I was getting wildly varied answers from my Internet searches.

I hope its ok to ask this here. I just built a run for my chickens. I used ground contact wood for anything on the dirt and regular kdht 2x4 for the rest. what is a good outdoor paint and primer or stain and sealer that i should use for this? also is there any reason to use stain over paint?

Thanks so much!

I am currently working on a cabinet job and I am about to spray my BIN Primer but when I was at home depot I tried to get them to tint it as dark as they can, which I believe the most they are allowed to put in is two ounces of black, which I had them do but it still came out white, like nothing was added at all. In the past, back when I bought my BIN from Kelly Moore I was able to get them to tint it to at least a neutral gray. So I don't know whats going on here. They told me I could buy my own black pigment at PPG but if I add too much it wont cure. I have also read that you can use TransTint Dye Concentrate - Black to tint Shellac. Anyone have any experience with that?

How Can I get my BIN Shellac Darker?

Here is a photo of the two different tinted BIN's I've gotten. You can see the one on the right is much darker and is what I was hoping to get from Home Depot but what I got was the BIN on the left with them saying they couldn't tint it any darker.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1MQSGfelp00oO1j4GFeER0yiwTZayoTGr/view?usp=drive_link

Any suggestions for painting a basement wall that was painted decades ago then had water issues (since fixed). I noticed that some products like dryloc say not to use them on previously painted walls. What is best here?

Thanks