/r/myog
Join our community to learn and share how you make your own gear (MYOG). Tents, tarps, hammocks, stoves, packs and anything else you can think of outdoor gear related.
Tips, tricks and How-To's for making your own outdoor gear. Tents, tarps, hammocks, stoves, packs and anything else you can think of.
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/r/myog
Hello. I wanted to add pit zips on my rain jacket but I can't find a seam sealant tape/liquid in my area. But my zippers here are waterproof. Is it okay to just cut the armpit areaand straight off sew the zippers without worrying about the water going in? Thanks!
im thinking something like tactical-style vests that can have velcro strips or loops to attach and detach smaller pouches to. i would want to try doing this because my 8-year-old is barrel-chested and i want it to fit more to his body type. my 4-month-old is going to have a pretty special body type as well; she's starting to look like a pretty thick-built dog (no idea what breed she is). also just because it opens up so much more opportunity to customize for my needs and goals!
has anyone tried making a tactical-style vest harness for a dog? what kinds of materials and techniques would you use if you were to make one, i.e. what is a breathable yet durable material and a strong stitch?
Like the title says. I've used the SOL breathable bivy and like it, but I'm working on a project too large to just cannibalize one. Any recommendations for a fabric with similar properties?
Hi folks!
I'm getting a 45L maximum carry-on size custom travel backpack made and I was wondering if I could ask y'all for some advice and guidance. Apologies as I know this sub is centered around making your own stuff and is more focused on wilderness backpacking as opposed to travel, I hope it's alright that I'm posting on here.
A little bit of backstory: I initially thought that Cordura or ballistic nylon would be best suited for my needs but after doing some more research I've found that they're very heavy and alternatives like Ultra, Robic, and X-PAC are just as strong and much lighter (though maybe not as waterproof in the case of Ultra at least?). Since I'm a real noob I've found it difficult to understand if I should even be considering these very high-tech performance fabrics as they seem to be more for folks who are really focused on bringing their pack weight down as much as possible and are okay with sacrificing durability.
My question is: what is a fabric that would allow me to strike a good balance between durability, weight, and resistance to the elements (being as water-resistant as can be, as I understand waterproof isn't really possible)? I was thinking maybe I could use one fabric for the bottom of the pack, and then another for the body? My foremost priority above all is toughness, I want the pack to last a long time and not fail on me in the middle of a trip.
Thank you so much for reading my post and TIA! :)
I am looking for waxed canvas but I am more than willing to wax it myself. The backpack would be quite heavy with the things I put in it, probably 20 lbs conservatively. What is a good online (or western montana) store than can sell me good stuff at a reasonable price?
Im looking in to a good material to make a fly for a tent out off and was looking at this fabric and thought it was good, https://ripstopbytheroll.com/collections/waterproof-fabrics/products/1-1-oz-silpoly-pu4000, then I read that the Hydrostatic Head "(post 10x wash)" was only around 500mm.
What is the rough time it would take for the fabric to degrade that much?
I have a box of nice aqua guard YKK zippers that were being recycled. They're all a bit too long for my projects so I need to shorten them – what is the best way to do this? I've watched some videos and it looks to be:
- mark the desired length (from top, not bottom).
- cut using non-fabric scissors between teeth
Now my main question is how to secure it closed – I don't have a hot knife or additional bits that I can clamp onto the teeth to act as a stopper, so I think I need to resort fo sewing it shut. I tried previously and broke some needles doing this, but I didn't hand-crank so I can definitely be more careful...
What type of stitch is best to sew the zipper shut, and what is the method for this?
Thank you!
P
I have an eye on an used Pfaff 1245 for like 600€/$. I want to sew light linen i bought in sweden, thicker cotton to make an outdoor pants and dyneema in future to make a tent. Is it too heavy and too specialized for that? Its made for leather and thicker stuff what i heard. It also has only one sewing pattern = straight and i wondered if thats fine for most things. I also have a cheaper sewing machine with more complex patterns that i could use. I just dont like to work with and am very sure that i will love to with an industrial machine.
I'm using my Sailrite LSZ-1 walking foot machine for some small hobby projects, and am having trouble attaching hook and loop systems. When sewing the hook side, the presser foot always crushes the plastic hooks making them less effective. I'm considering buying a zipper foot, but I'm not sure it will actually help that much. I haven't seen much online about this and I'm fairly new to machine sewing in general so I might be missing an obvious technique for this. Any advice is appreciated.
I keep hearing about fish mesh being a baller fabric for all conditions including raves. I am referring to the mesh that Bryne or elemental sells.
I wondering if I could just use mesh for like the front pockets of backpacks or mesh for the no see ums nettings on tents.
All kidding aside. No one myogs these? I would like to try it for my next snowboarding trip.
Brand new to sewing and this is my first machine. I randomly struck up a conversation with a lady in Joann and mentioned I was looking at sailrites. She gave me a number to her friend who happened to be selling the exact machine I was looking for. A sweet little lady said she bought it a few years ago, used it 1 time to fix her son’s sail then he sold his sailboat and now she had no use for it. She included a hot knife, clamps and a bunch of other accessories she bought with it. Feeling pretty happy about it. I do plan on doing a motor swap for the worker b. Everything else is gtg.
I'm looking to make a flap that will snap down. Easy enough. But I also want to keep it open when open. So my thought is to use the male part on both sides for the flap and the female's at the closed and open positions. So can you put 2 males together on the same piece of cloth (even if not in San Francisco:) )?
How can I save this reel of thread? I've lost the end, had to trim the loopy bits now it's just collapsing, and all the end seem to lead underneath
Anyone have any tips for adding eyelets/grommets to a bike frame bag for frame mounting? My bag is cordura with daisy chain loops on the downtube but I'd like to mount to my bottle cage bolts then will keep 2-3 of the straps above that and maybe one below depending of whether it feels like it still needs the stability.
Grommets material: plastic (if even available in 5mm?), vs brass vs stainless?
The exterior side should be fine I think - I'll keep the daisy chain webbing and make a hole through it and the bag. What about the inside of the bag? Should I protect it by adding some extra material before installing the eyelet through everything (or maybe 1-2mm rubber or semi-rigid plastic sheet), either just a circle at each spot or a long piece covering both?
Eyelets would be 5mm internal diameter I guess, for the M5 bolts. I wondered about using 10mm so that the little nub of the bottle mount would sit inside the eyelet but then I suppose the eyelets would be a lot thicker and would mean making big holes in the bag and finding suitable screws/washers.
Probably overthinking it!
Thanks.