A place dedicated to the brave souls who ride in the deadly British weather

I’ve been told I have to do my a1 before a2 but some people have told me I can go straight to a2 after cbt

Anyone got an Oxford b30 or a kreiga r30?

In the market for a waterproof backpack for commuting and these 2 stand out. Is the kreiga worth £60 more?

TL;DR: I worked in motorcycle gear retail for years up until 2024 and learnt as much as I possibly could about it. It would be a disservice to not know as much as I possible when selling what could save a customer's life. You can get good gear for a great price and fuck anyone who tries to sell the most expensive shit because more expensive does not mean "more better".

I'll try to summarise everything as briefly as possible but it's still a big read;

#Helmet:

• GET IT FITTED. Snug on cheeks, secure but comfortable around skull cap, cannot fit more than a fingertip between forehead and liner of helmet and you are able to wear it without issue for at least 15 minutes, however I stress 1 hour minimum. Provided no discomfort/headaches afterwards then great, if any discomfort/pressure points/headaches for the love of god take it off and don't buy it.
• Head shape is unique! Everyone's head is a different shape. AGV might fit you perfectly but Arai will give you headaches. A bad fitting high quality helmet is still dangerous as the EPS foam inside will not do it's job on impact if there be a gap between it and the surface of your head, some helmets just won't work for us, so try a bunch on!
• LIFESPAN. Your helmet degrades, my god the amount of 6+ year old helmets I saw with "well I've never dropped it so" excuse was worrying. EPS layer degrades and only Arai boast a 7 year life from production, not shelf. General rule = 5 years. After that, ornament or bin, no exceptions.
• Reputable brands only; Arai, Shoei, HJC, Shark, AGV and Scorpion. I won't touch the rest.
• You do not need to spend £1000. Ideal price is ~£150, maybe even £130 for some of Shark's offerings such as the D-Skwal 2 (also check sales you can get some bangers on black friday).
• Rating is just a guideline. That £80 pretty MT plastic thing will not perform the same as an Arai Quantic simply because of the ECE22.06 sticker.
• Trust ECE22.06 and FIM/FIMfrhphe-02 only. The rest are outdated and useless now but still heed the above bullet point.
• Material matters; plastic is fine but fibreglass and carbon composites/carbon are better, lighter, more flexible and will take more stress and also last longer.
• Get a white (lum. yellow too) helmet. You don't see it when it's on and it is more visible https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC387473/

#Jacket/Torso:

• Abrasion and impact ratings (EN17092/EN13595); AA abrasion minimum. Had my crashes, AA & AAA saved my skin. Level 2 armour minimum. Tested level 1 and it was absolutely useless, level 2 did the job with minor bruising as opposed to fractures/sprains. Feel free to meat crayon at 20mph with Single A/Level 1 and let me know how it goes.
• Price: not really one I can suggest, stick with the brands I recommend and find what works for you. Don't forget second hand is an option!
• Material: Complicated, leathers are king for abrasion and heat transfer but careful on brand (stick to my guidelines because RST "AAA" leathers, are not). Rating is much more applicable here e.g darmstadt/cambridge testing - https://www.pva-ppe.org.uk/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/the-darmstadt-advanced-abrasion-machine.pdf but still not be-all, again stick to my recommended brands. Textile are versatile and can boast the same ratings as leathers, depending on the type of crash can even be re-used (use your common sense when gauging the condition please).
• Reputable brands for abrasion only; REV'IT, Alpinestars, KNOX, Dainese, Merlin and Richa (there are probably a couple of other good brands in other countries but this is just UK)
• Waterproofing; Gore-tex if you can afford it (laminated not drop liner). If not, REV'IT hydratex, Alpinestars Drystar, Dainese D-Dry or a bin bag if in a pinch (sweaty but waterproof)
• Breathability; the more flaps the better, mesh is king for airflow and thermal liners are brilliant for the cold. If it's hot, mesh or lots of flaps, if it's cold, close the flaps and don't wear mesh! (KNOX are the kings of breathability and safety)
• Personal suggestion; I get boiling all the time. KNOX urbane pro and shield joggers in the summer/autumn, but my alpinestars ST-7 goretex suit in the winter.
• Sizing; baggy=bad if no other layers underneath, maximum bagginess allows for one hoodie when cold, squish another in if it's really cold. Loose gear means armour doesn't sit in place.

#Trousers

Same prinicples as the jackets, however Oxford Approved AA jeans and ladies leggings are incredible for the price and I've tested them both (yup even the ladies before the KNOX shield joggers existed) in crashes and they saved my skin, all for £130 which are the cheapest of the bunch (that aren't shit).

#Airbags (not quite black and white)

• Any airbag is better than none, however Bennetts did indepth testing and the MotoAirbag V4 came out as the winner. I would only wear that now. Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C0219r4QPLs

#Gloves

• Good leather only, no exceptions. From brands I mentioned. Feel free to use textile but uhh don't crash mate.
• Gore-tex only for waterproofing, or hand guards. Your hands take brunt of wind and rain, far more stress for the material than your jacket. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dtCdQfbLw7o
• Gloves usually don't fit snug to your finger tips. This is deliberate as it allows trapped air to stay warmer. Otherwise the rest of the hands a comfortable but snug fit. Leather expands remember.

#Boots

• Track/racing/adventure boots give best protection, anything else and your foot is fucked (been there done that with what I thought were great mid length road boots).
• Gore-tex only for waterproofing, mate they're like 6 inches from the wet road, don't skimp.

Final notes: you can get a fantastic set of gear for £400, search around, look for sales, even second hand for anything EXCEPT helmets. In fact I've kitted people out for far less too.

#What do I wear?

• Helmet: White Arai Quantic for any longer journey or commuting. Shark Spartan RS for trips to the shop, or maybe my HJC R-PHA 71. All exceptional lids but Arai is king.

• Summer/warmer & dry: KNOX Honister AAA mesh jacket (with chest protector), KNOX Shield AAA joggers (yup, AAA joggers), Alpinestars Fastback V2 Drystar boots, REV'IT Offtrack mesh & leather/Richa Rock leather gloves

• Winter/cold and/or wet: Alpinestars ST-7 gore-tex laminate 2 piece, cost me my kidney but it is worth every single penny. It does not leak. At all. Ever. Not to mention the ventilation is fantastic and I could actually wear it year round! Richa City gore-tex leather-palmed gloves, same boots and one/two hoodies under my jacket with the thermal liner in depending on temps.

#Verdict

Follow this advice if you want. Eh it's your life and your safety at the end of the day, all I can do is share my experience and knowledge in something that probably 4 people will read and I'll check back later to find a bunch of down votes, but I'd rather that and save even 1 person making a dangerous mistake, but hey ho.

If you have specific advice send me a message.

Edit: Comment section gettin' spicy, probably worth me disclosing that I strove to learn as much as I could but I don't in fact, know everything, hence "Follow this advice if you want.".

My keys are stuck in the ignition and unable to be removed (2019 CBR650R, 12k miles). Apparently this is quite a common issue on Honda 650s, I’ve met people who have been through 2 ignition switches.

I’ve tried graphite before as it gradually got worse, moving the handlebars etc. Any ideas before I go get a new ignition switch? Apparently the vibrations of the bike destroy it, the wafers etc

Is it possible to have the camera auto connect to my phone once the bike is powered on? Having to start my bike, then sit and manually connect to the wifi on phone is going to get pretty annoying fast.

Google isn't giving much of an answer.

Also how do I update the firmware? Innovv site says something about using a card that is 32gb, my card is 120-something...so does this mean I need to purchase a card just for the update?

I've noticed a bit of a thing recently with people who are new to riding buying big bikes but cheaping out on equipment.

The same concept for motorbikes applies with motorcycle gear, buy cheap buy twice or pay the cost in the long run. A decent helmet should be the top of people's shopping list, it is easy to find the helmet safety ratings online with a simple search, do your research before buying, why take a risk for the sake of a few extra ££s.

The same also goes for gloves, boots and clothing, upgrade for better protection, buy the inner back protector for your jacket, hip protectors for your jeans and armoured gloves, better to know you have it in the worst case scenario than live to regret it.

This is inside of my YBR 125’s airbox. Any ideas ?

Hi all,

Just want some insight on what to add to my current motorcycle security setup. (If anything)

I live in London down a residential road that has a dead-end, so the only reason somebody would be going down my road is if they live there.

The bike (CBR500R) is stored in my front garden and my current setup consists of two alarmed disc locks (one crappy REAPP one, and one Oxford Alpha XA14) on my front wheel as my rear disc doesn’t fit them. I also have a 16mm Oxford chain for my rear wheel secured to an immovable post. I also have a ring doorbell that has full view of the motorcycle at all times, and the pathway leading to my front garden is extremely narrow, making it a ballache to get the bike in and out. The bike is also covered by a tacky cover at all times when it’s parked.

What are some extra security devices you think I should add (if any)? I was thinking of getting a hiplok dx1000 with a ground anchor for the front wheel, or maybe even a thicker chain for the rear. But at the same time part of me thinks I’m being too paranoid about security.

It’s also worth noting that the bike comes with Honda HISS, which I’ve heard can be effective at slowing down thieves.

Thanks in advance!

been riding for a couple of months however a few weeks ago a friend of mine got into a serious crash because of some ice on the road and i’ve been struggling to build the confidence to go out whilst it’s sub par riding conditions. Any advice ??

I'll be heading on my first road trip abroad this year in the late summer, down to the French Alps for about 2 weeks.

Is touring-specific kit worth it? At the moment I have:

• bog-standard road helmet (with a thin piece of duct tape along the visor to block the sun when the visor is open)
• good leather jacket with vents
• armoured kevlar leggings
• urban riding boots (not waterproof but comfortable on and off the bike). I have RST boots for the track but don't love them... find the velcro on the inside of the calf catches on the pegs when moving my leg around.

I'm very tempted to buy new kit because shiny new things are exciting but wondering if I actually need to. Particularly about the longer boots and the peaked helmets? Or is it all just marketing malarkey?

-- Thanks for all the replies! Will pack waterproofs, look at proper boots, jeans and definitely nix the peaked helmets.

As the title says I lost 4th on my 125cc 2 days ago, I can still get about but I just have to skip it. Taking it to the garage Wednesday but I still need to commute 😭. Will I make it much worse?

it was also due for an oil change about now anyways.

Cheers!

edit: Yep! you guys are right. Was dreading the 4am wakeup but its better than losing my bike. Thank you!

It's so annoying 😡

Now that I've finally sorted out a bike and insurance, cost me an arm and a leg. I was posting in hopes of finding people around my age in London to ride around with(25m). Not a lot of young riders about that I know and I did see a post the other day about not that may soo thought I would post and see where It goes.

Hello everyone! I'm going to purchase my first bike very soon and I have a few questions regarding security. I will keep it as short and sweet as I can.

I am based in London, new to the area but I think it isn't average crime wise. The bike will be kept in a private garage, which is not visible from the main road, it is behind the apartment complex. It has one of these on the door. I have a Hiplok DX1000. I also plan on purchasing a Monimoto 9 tracker. I will not be commuting with the bike, I will however want to explore beyond London, visit friends, ride about.

• What other, portable security should I purchase? I'm thinking some sort of chain?
• Should I purchase and carry with me a cover if I don't leave the bike out for more than a few hours?
• What would be the best way to carry these security devices? (Yamaha XSR125)
• How badly do you think I should install a ground anchor in the garage? For context, I am renting the place, and I was given permission to install one, but the A1000 from Hiplok is £180. A lot for something I can't take with me. Do you know of any ground anchors compatible with the DX1000?
• Anything else security wise I should consider?

Thank you very much for taking the time, any advice is much appreciated.

Hiya, I’m looking for a decent motorcycle trainers in west London to do my full licence.

A bit of a background, I’m 30, used to ride extensive in India - in the UK I’ve got my CBT & theory test done. Looking into doing my full licence but as it’s a massive commitment (I was quoted £1200 - 300x4 days - for Mod 1 & 2 training & test days), I’m looking for some references from the members here.

I looked into WLMT, Twickenham Motorcycle Training, NLMT and a couple of other schools online - but I’m not sure which one to go with.

Any advice for schools/test prep/good starter bike to practice would be lovely!

TIA

Edit: thanks so much to all who replied! It has certainly helped me with the references and I feel more confident about deciding to go with either of the schools.

Passed my MOD2 yesterday and very chuffed. Obviously first thing is to look at changing bikes...

I got my CBT 30th sept, on advise from the bike training for practice, I bought a Honda CBF125 23 plate from superbike for £2200 with 4k miles plus they added an admin charge after. I felt this was a little steep but happy with this.

Within the 4 months I've done almost 1k miles using the bike going round Matlock and Derby where possible to practice. I have however had a full service in this time as well.

I went today to look to trade this in for a ninja 650 which seems like a good bike to start with in bigger bikes after riding z650s for the training and tests. However superbike offered me £1200 for the bike. This seemed very low to me, so I asked what they can do with my min acceptable amount being £1800. They managed 100 off the ninja itself only, so I left this. I then did a lot of online valuations of the bike however what I've learned here is that most places just go back to superbike for this :( with the same price. I did find out that they'll sell the bike at £2000 tho.

Looking on auto trader I can sell this bike for easily £2000, so will do this

So my position now is to look for the ninja 650 I want but sell the bike separately which I was hoping I'd do without.

Sorry for the rant, it's been a frustrating day where I was happy to buy a bike :D Any advise is greatly appreciated 👍

I'm a 15 year old girl, I turn 16 in May, I'm applying for my provisional today, and I plan to buy a moped or 50cc bike to get me to and from school when I go to 6th form, I was wondering if anybody had any advice on absolutely anything that could help? Gear, bikes, courses, license routes? This is pretty much a plea for any of you to throw your advice at me. I've saved around a grand from doing odd jobs, but at 15 it's hard to get a job to find this kind of thing! I'm hoping to get a higher cc bike at 17 or 18, but could do with something for my 30 minute commute to school. Thanks in advance for any advice you can give!

Looks like I went too hard with the super glue and poured it all over the throttle tube, now it’s not coming off :( Any tips to remove it please ? Currently trying acetone

I was going to buy a VOGE 125r initially but having passed my Full A license I can choose anything…

I was heading towards the hornet 750, cb650r but insurance is a killer for me in London….

I’m very very close to getting the forza 350 (2024)….great deal on finance …

Do any of you fellas have it, had it? Is it good?

City riding and maybe very light touring around England would be my reasons for getting it…

Just like the title, how do you keep the bling br blinging on your motorbike after the winter?

I'm deliberating over what second bike to buy. I am a big fan of sorts riding and also touring. Right now I would probably get a nice adventure bike and then later on, if I have the money, a sport bike.

However I would get a sport bike first if track riding is easily accessible? How much should I be looking at spending? I would also like some training on track to make me a better rider. I've had a look on trackdays.com but there are only a few training sessions posted on there, maybe I'm looking in the wrong place.

Any advice is appreciated.

Hello, i been thinking of buying and installing a Black widow exhaust system on my GSX-R125 but i wasn’t sure if it was a good idea or not, also is it a road legal or would i get in problems doing so?

So I've had a lexmoto assault 125 (2020) for 5 months. I am considering replacing the exhaust system as it's rusty at the header joint and I wanna learn to do something new.

I've seen many judge 125s that are loud as hell but, likely being naive, I don't understand the judgment of it. Is it really that obnoxious? Does it really sound that bad? I ask this as I've been considering getting the lextek YB4 exhaust sytem...

Either way I was wondering if you guys would have any better suggestions on what after-market exhaust system I should get to make it sound nicer without it becoming an obnoxious 125 on the road.

I'm open to all advice.

Hey gang,

After quite a nasty crash coming off at 35mph and skidding on asphalt in shorts and t shirt (unbelievably stupid I know, I don’t recommend it) I’m deciding to get back on a bike and do things properly this time.

I’m looking to get some leathers, particularly a jacket and pants, not a full connected suit.

I’ve tried on some stuff from AlpineStars and Dianese and wow I could barely get my calfs inside. I’m quite a low body fat fella, but I’m 5 foot 11 and have a stocky rugby player esque build. So finding clothes in general is always a nightmare for me.

Does anybody have any good recommendations for gear for slightly stockier lads? It seems the gear these days is more geared towards that MotoGP slenderish build.

Any help more than appreciated!

I’ll keep this brief because it’s ongoing but I’m going to get shafted and it’s so frustrating…

Had an non fault accident earlier in January. Driver accepted liability at the scene and there were two independent witnesses who saw it and were ace, the driver initially wanted to do it all privately but quickly bailed when we showed him the damage and a witness, who was also a biker, backed up my initial guesstimate. So here we are…

Contacted my Insurers “claim line” which turned out to be nothing to do with them but goes straight to 4D. Now I’m not totally naive, I know that the insurance company are nothing more than brokers so expected this. I would quite like the bike back for numerous reasons.

So 4D collect the bike and assess the damage. The damage was not, imho, substantial and certainly not the £4500 figure they’ve managed to generate, the bike is a low mileage model from a high end manufacturer. They’ve also massively down valued the market value of the bike. I guess this is their business model, inflate the repair cost and go for the lowest market value they can find. The frustrating thing is the Broker doesn’t appear to give a hoot.

Thankfully I swerved the 4D £250 a day hire bike because a) it’s immoral to escalate the claim value like this and b) I hoped declining it and this revenue stream might speed up my repair.

Post inspection, an estimator calls with the news. They have said the third party insurers won’t pay the full value of the repairs, maybe 60-80% of it so I either don’t get a fully repaired bike back, or i have to claim on my fully comp policy. So I go with the latter….

Now I am second guessing here but i guess there are two possible outcomes,

1. my insurers look at the repair list and associated costs, and the 4D market value figure and decide it’s a write off. I get a derisory payout nowhere near the bikes value, my insurers claim off the third parties insurer, 4D keep the bike.

2. My insurers agree to the repairs, 4D fix it, I get my bike back and my insurer will claim off the third parties insurer

Can anyone with a similar experience advise which way this is going?

And if anyone from 4D is reading this, these bikes are our lives and our passion. We have no choice but to entrust them to you in these scenarios so please treat the owners with respect.

The only fixed objects at my workplace to lock the bike to are the bike racks, so it’s already not ideal, however I’m looking at 2 locks to hopefully help secure my new scooter…

Hiplok DX1000 or the ABUS Granit Extreme 59.

My only concern with the Hiplok is that it probably wouldn’t be able to go through the tyre and attach to the bike racks, it’s likely just be a tyre lock? If that’s the case I could get a cheaper thick chain just to attach it to a fixed object to add 30-40 seconds to the thieves attempt before they get to the Hiplok..

Other option is the ABUS chain I mentioned which is 140cm long so would easily fit through the bike tyre and through an object whether that be the bike rack, or a street light post (but this is out of sight of cameras).

The bike will also have a front disc lock, and I’m getting an alarm fitted.

Looking for recommendations Uk 🇬🇧 Ireland 🇮🇪 and Europe

Hi guys, i just wanted to ask if it's safe to use aluminium mirror caps without them seizing? i know it's bad to use aluminium tyre valve caps and was wondering if there would be a similar issue here, they seem to be by far the most available option rather than plastic etc

Thanks

Hello,

I’m an American motorcycle rider residing in Northern California. I am very interested to visit the UK on two wheels, planning to visit in May. Mainly I want to see Scotland. Can you provide some suggestions on where to rent a bike or any recommendations in general?

PFA✌️

Thank you in advance.