Looking for more info on this k98

Added some more photos including another marking that I hadn’t noticed before (the marking by the bolt handle) the photo of the stock is a little hard to see, but in person in makes out an H

<div class="md"><p>Added some more photos including another marking that I hadn’t noticed before (the marking by the bolt handle) the photo of the stock is a little hard to see, but in person in makes out an H</p>
</div>

Any idea what these are (with additional photos)

It has the stamp but nothing under it. Hole on each side for pin cleaning , has complete round bolt and wood shaved under, flat bolt and number starts with a Z. So maybe they where just getting sloppy, but has like 6-8 numbers on it all match. Also cover over front  site. And the metal butt plate. 

<div class="md"><p>It has the stamp but nothing under it. Hole on each side for pin cleaning , has complete round bolt and wood shaved under, flat bolt and number starts with a Z. So maybe they where just getting sloppy, but has like 6-8 numbers on it all match. Also cover over front  site. And the metal butt plate. </p>
</div>

Is this a M48 8mm? Why does it still have round bolt? All matching numbers on everything, original sling too. It just seems odd. Is it real

The soft point deer box price to almost $80 box and always sold out" guy said ppl stopped using it that area in early 90.My area everyone does slug or 308,223.. and I refuse to pay that for 20rounds .
.
, when other states it's about 22$ box Another store has some lose surplus is 90c round I asked for 8mm they said this would work.  I can go state over and join an outdoor club. And shot. Basically is it safe to shot this ammo ? What are those markings? It chambers and unloads dry. When I got the gun guy said don't shoot it alot, its an auction gun. He was about to. The alone pic is of the surplus about half and half 8x57 IS FA, other is no prime marker on few I pulled just the K8x57IS,  is in most of em. Some primers are worse then others, id prob while em off before I shoot. If I can. Will this this FMJ ammo work? Not work?Or break the gun.. . Thank you. The Gun post on the way.

<div class="md"><p>The soft point deer box price to almost $80 box and always sold out&quot; guy said ppl stopped using it that area in early 90.My area everyone does slug or 308,223.. and I refuse to pay that for 20rounds .
.
, when other states it&#39;s about 22$ box Another store has some lose surplus is 90c round I asked for 8mm they said this would work.  I can go state over and join an outdoor club. And shot. Basically is it safe to shot this ammo ? What are those markings? It chambers and unloads dry. When I got the gun guy said don&#39;t shoot it alot, its an auction gun. He was about to. The alone pic is of the surplus about half and half 8x57 IS FA, other is no prime marker on few I pulled just the K8x57IS,  is in most of em. Some primers are worse then others, id prob while em off before I shoot. If I can. Will this this FMJ ammo work? Not work?Or break the gun.. . Thank you. The Gun post on the way.</p>
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I'm sure you get these all the time but ammo just double in my state so I'm drive a little to an outdoor club so I can shoot this fmj will this work in my 8mm Yugo. ? Also another post coming becaus my Yugo seems odd different. Anyway can I shoot this. New to owning guns but been shooting with fam

trying to figure out what these markings are on my rifle, BNZ 43, plenty of regular markings from what I know (very little), just no clue what these are


<div class="md"><p>trying to figure out what these markings are on my rifle, BNZ 43, plenty of regular markings from what I know (very little), just no clue what these are</p>
</div>

Any idea what these are? 

Hey everyone, I recently acquired this swedish mauser. On a previous post it was mentioned it's from 1917 based on serial number. I'm personally as new as it gets to mauser firearms. I'd like to get a full wood stock for it. What are my options to make that happen? It shoots like a dream. It's just a bit beat up. 
Thanks 

<div class="md"><p>Hey everyone, I recently acquired this swedish mauser. On a previous post it was mentioned it&#39;s from 1917 based on serial number. I&#39;m personally as new as it gets to mauser firearms. I&#39;d like to get a full wood stock for it. What are my options to make that happen? It shoots like a dream. It&#39;s just a bit beat up. 
Thanks </p>
</div>

Interchangeable stock 

Left to right, M24/47 Yugo, M43 Spanish, M38 Turkish, and VZ24 Brazilian contract. 

<div class="md"><p>Left to right, M24/47 Yugo, M43 Spanish, M38 Turkish, and VZ24 Brazilian contract. </p>
</div>

Took some rifles to the range Sunday. 

Looking for information on this rifle and its value. From what I understand, in the early days (1935 or so) the Germans converted gewehr 98s to k98s but this is the first one I've seen. It's a hodgepodge of parts and the numbers don't match, but the bore is acceptable. The barrel and receiver match but nearly nothing else on it does. There's a mark on the receiver that looks like it could possibly be a Russian capture mark, but I can't be sure. It's not import marked. What can you tell me about this rifle and its value? I'm just not terribly familiar with these early conversions.

<div class="md"><p>Looking for information on this rifle and its value. From what I understand, in the early days (1935 or so) the Germans converted gewehr 98s to k98s but this is the first one I&#39;ve seen. It&#39;s a hodgepodge of parts and the numbers don&#39;t match, but the bore is acceptable. The barrel and receiver match but nearly nothing else on it does. There&#39;s a mark on the receiver that looks like it could possibly be a Russian capture mark, but I can&#39;t be sure. It&#39;s not import marked. What can you tell me about this rifle and its value? I&#39;m just not terribly familiar with these early conversions.</p>
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Spandau gew 98 conversion 

Hey all!
Looking to grab this Red 9, always wanted one and think they're cool. Must admit I don't know much about them. Just looking to see how much this rig is worth, they're asking 2500 for it, and if I am legally able to use the stock. Thanks!!

<div class="md"><p>Hey all!
Looking to grab this Red 9, always wanted one and think they&#39;re cool. Must admit I don&#39;t know much about them. Just looking to see how much this rig is worth, they&#39;re asking 2500 for it, and if I am legally able to use the stock. Thanks!!</p>
</div>

Red 9 (?) Value

I was thinking about starting to collect Mausers and I was wondering what Mausers are worth getting for their price and Shoot Ability? Like which ones are the most worth while getting for shooting/wall hangers?

<div class="md"><p>I was thinking about starting to collect Mausers and I was wondering what Mausers are worth getting for their price and Shoot Ability? Like which ones are the most worth while getting for shooting/wall hangers?</p>
</div>

Collecting Mausers

Got a Spanish Mauser I was eyeing for 600 (all matching and very nice wood and bore) and when I took it apart to clean it I found seemingly German markings under the wood. I know that the M44 Mausers were mix masters from leftover Kar98K's and WZ 29's from the Spanish civil war that were re serialized by Spain and given to the Air Force, but is there any way I can tell if this is originally a Kar98k or WZ 29 as well as the year off these few markings?

<div class="md"><p>Got a Spanish Mauser I was eyeing for 600 (all matching and very nice wood and bore) and when I took it apart to clean it I found seemingly German markings under the wood. I know that the M44 Mausers were mix masters from leftover Kar98K&#39;s and WZ 29&#39;s from the Spanish civil war that were re serialized by Spain and given to the Air Force, but is there any way I can tell if this is originally a Kar98k or WZ 29 as well as the year off these few markings?</p>
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Identifying Markings on Spanish Air Force M44 Mauser

So I got this Yugo M48A for $350 about a week ago and the main serial number on top of the bolt handle matches the rest of the gun. (besides the floor plate which doesn’t match) So what’s the deal with the second set of numbers underneath? is it a serial number of a different rifle or just some arsenal marking

<div class="md"><p>So I got this Yugo M48A for $350 about a week ago and the main serial number on top of the bolt handle matches the rest of the gun. (besides the floor plate which doesn’t match) So what’s the deal with the second set of numbers underneath? is it a serial number of a different rifle or just some arsenal marking</p>
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What’s up with this 3 digit number underneath my Yugo Bolt?

I have the chance to grab this for $400, but I know very little about Mausers. Thanks!

<div class="md"><p>I have the chance to grab this for $400, but I know very little about Mausers. Thanks!</p>
</div>

Need some help with ID

Ok so I finally snapped some pictures for this odd Turkish Mauser. Through additional research and a recommendation from a comment, I’m pretty sure this is a rifle that started as a gewehr 88, then was updated as the gewehr 88/05, which added the stripper clip cut outs which are actually riveted on the receiver, a cutout notch on the front of the receiver, which some argue that it’s for modern spitzer bullets, others argue that it’s for the original 7.92 ammo (longer projectile than modern 8mm projectile) which made it hard to use the stripper clip without bullet tips hitting receiver. They also added side walls including a feed lip. The bottom of my trigger guard being is normal. I was wrong about this not missing parts, and being en bloc fed, it’s just that the bottom dust cover clip for my rifle is missing. Which does not effect function. Just helps keep the magazine internals and action clean. As you can see it also has the modern upper handguard installed where they removed the original barrel cover. Under the handguard you can see the supposed actual bore measurement if I’m correct. 7.90. In the same pictures, you can also see the groove at the receiver end where the barrel cover originally was held in. My barrel, receiver, and rear sight block all have the same serial number. The top has the standard Turkish markings. Tc, asfa, Ankara. Dated 1939 I believe. I believe this is a 88/05/38 mainly because of the upper handguard, the rear sight leaf, the barrel cover being removed, the Turkish markings, and the fact that the forend cap/bayonet lug does not have a screw holding it in place. There is a long rectangular plate that you push down and it is actually a spring holding the lug in place keeping the stock end secure. To make sure that I was right about the en bloc no longer being usable, and to make sure I was actually wrong, I took some spare 7.62x39 I had, (yes I know it won’t chamber properly) and pushed it into the magazine, on top of the single curved spring. Ok check. All five rounds held in place and is not wide enough for an en block. Then I pushed the bolt forward, and yes the round caught, and if not for it being so short, it would’ve hit the feed ramp. (Also quick shoutout to the original owner for not stealing pieces of the bolt face). But I did notice while loading the cartridges, that it was very awkward to do it one round at a time. The spring holding the ammo with upward pressure was cupped to fit the bullet casing with a round shape. But once the first round was loading, it was hard keeping one bullet on top of the loaded one steady to insert it. This rifle is modified for stripper clips for sure and specifically to use them. Not to just give the ability to use them if they wanted to. I believe what I have, is an Ankara/turkish gewehr 88/05/35. 

<div class="md"><p>Ok so I finally snapped some pictures for this odd Turkish Mauser. Through additional research and a recommendation from a comment, I’m pretty sure this is a rifle that started as a gewehr 88, then was updated as the gewehr 88/05, which added the stripper clip cut outs which are actually riveted on the receiver, a cutout notch on the front of the receiver, which some argue that it’s for modern spitzer bullets, others argue that it’s for the original 7.92 ammo (longer projectile than modern 8mm projectile) which made it hard to use the stripper clip without bullet tips hitting receiver. They also added side walls including a feed lip. The bottom of my trigger guard being is normal. I was wrong about this not missing parts, and being en bloc fed, it’s just that the bottom dust cover clip for my rifle is missing. Which does not effect function. Just helps keep the magazine internals and action clean. As you can see it also has the modern upper handguard installed where they removed the original barrel cover. Under the handguard you can see the supposed actual bore measurement if I’m correct. 7.90. In the same pictures, you can also see the groove at the receiver end where the barrel cover originally was held in. My barrel, receiver, and rear sight block all have the same serial number. The top has the standard Turkish markings. Tc, asfa, Ankara. Dated 1939 I believe. I believe this is a 88/05/38 mainly because of the upper handguard, the rear sight leaf, the barrel cover being removed, the Turkish markings, and the fact that the forend cap/bayonet lug does not have a screw holding it in place. There is a long rectangular plate that you push down and it is actually a spring holding the lug in place keeping the stock end secure. To make sure that I was right about the en bloc no longer being usable, and to make sure I was actually wrong, I took some spare 7.62x39 I had, (yes I know it won’t chamber properly) and pushed it into the magazine, on top of the single curved spring. Ok check. All five rounds held in place and is not wide enough for an en block. Then I pushed the bolt forward, and yes the round caught, and if not for it being so short, it would’ve hit the feed ramp. (Also quick shoutout to the original owner for not stealing pieces of the bolt face). But I did notice while loading the cartridges, that it was very awkward to do it one round at a time. The spring holding the ammo with upward pressure was cupped to fit the bullet casing with a round shape. But once the first round was loading, it was hard keeping one bullet on top of the loaded one steady to insert it. This rifle is modified for stripper clips for sure and specifically to use them. Not to just give the ability to use them if they wanted to. I believe what I have, is an Ankara/turkish gewehr 88/05/35. </p>
</div>

Update on old Turkish Mauser ammo question.

I have a Mauser .22 Caliber carbine.  Serial #42243.  How can I research when it was manufactured and learn more about it?  Thanks!

<div class="md"><p>I have a Mauser .22 Caliber carbine.  Serial #42243.  How can I research when it was manufactured and learn more about it?  Thanks!</p>
</div>

Mauser 22 Carbine

Saved this k98 from a pawn shop for around $600. Recently found a stock and space parts and looking for a price range and also some info of origin.

<div class="md"><p>Saved this k98 from a pawn shop for around $600. Recently found a stock and space parts and looking for a price range and also some info of origin.</p>
</div>

Any ideas on price?

Updated post including pictures of bolt (underneath and above) and clearer pictures of stock. I live Ballistol oil! 

<div class="md"><p>Updated post including pictures of bolt (underneath and above) and clearer pictures of stock. I live Ballistol oil! </p>
</div>

Update on my K98 Mauser

Picked up this swedish mauser today in 6.5 x 55. I'm curious if it's possible to get the age of it by the serial number provided. Any info is appreciated. Thanks

Top to bottom


Spanish Oviedo M93 7x57. Bubba'd, but matching

Turkish M38 8mm. All matching

Yugo M48 8mm with ZRAK ON-M76B. All matching

Yugo M98/48 8mm. All matching except for a restamped floor plate

German BCD 4 8mm. All matching except for front barrel band

<div class="md"><p>Top to bottom</p>

<p>Spanish Oviedo M93 7x57. Bubba&#39;d, but matching</p>

<p>Turkish M38 8mm. All matching</p>

<p>Yugo M48 8mm with ZRAK ON-M76B. All matching</p>

<p>Yugo M98/48 8mm. All matching except for a restamped floor plate</p>

<p>German BCD 4 8mm. All matching except for front barrel band</p>
</div>

Went from one mauser to five in the span of a few months

So I made an impulse buy today. My local pawnshop is also an ffl and by far has the best guns new and used from any store within 100 mikes from me. My plan was to just get some 7.62x39, make a payment on a layaway item and leave. However, what I thought was a pristine condition 1891 mosin nagant for 340$ caught my eye. I dropped the ammo, checked it out, and realized it was a supposed 8mm Mauser. Guy made a deal and said 250$ out the door so of course I did it. Problem was, the original owner didn’t know what it was, and neither did the pawn shop owners. Judging by the prices of other cheap Turkish mausers in far worse condition, (although it’s very obvious mine was refurnished and reblued at some point) I obviously considered it a steal. Pawn shop guys thought that the magazine floor plate and the magazine follower were missing, except it was not. It’s just an enbloc clip fed magazine. It has the Turkish, tc asfa ankara receiver markings on it. Has a completely flush stripper clip groove even though it’s pretty much useless being an enbloc build. And it has the barrel jacket removed with the upper handguard placed on top under the rear sight. It has mostly matching numbers except a couple nitpicky parts. Right beside the rear sight, 7.90 is stamped into the barrel. Is any of this information good enough to identify what it’s chambered in? I know that’s a long shot question and I probably should slug the bore, but the closest store that sells those balls in 78 miles away from me. I honestly feel like it would be easier to buy various Mauser cartridges, rule out the smaller calibers, and the biggest one that easily chambers with the bolt locked should be the correct bullet. I’d still take it to a gunsmith to see what he had to say. I read somewhere that “most 8mm mausers especially the German ones will have 7.90-7.93 stamped into the barrel.” Idk. I just would kind of figure that more records and information would’ve been recorded about these oddball firearms. I can send pictures when I get off of work in a couple hours. Thank you in advance.

<div class="md"><p>So I made an impulse buy today. My local pawnshop is also an ffl and by far has the best guns new and used from any store within 100 mikes from me. My plan was to just get some 7.62x39, make a payment on a layaway item and leave. However, what I thought was a pristine condition 1891 mosin nagant for 340$ caught my eye. I dropped the ammo, checked it out, and realized it was a supposed 8mm Mauser. Guy made a deal and said 250$ out the door so of course I did it. Problem was, the original owner didn’t know what it was, and neither did the pawn shop owners. Judging by the prices of other cheap Turkish mausers in far worse condition, (although it’s very obvious mine was refurnished and reblued at some point) I obviously considered it a steal. Pawn shop guys thought that the magazine floor plate and the magazine follower were missing, except it was not. It’s just an enbloc clip fed magazine. It has the Turkish, tc asfa ankara receiver markings on it. Has a completely flush stripper clip groove even though it’s pretty much useless being an enbloc build. And it has the barrel jacket removed with the upper handguard placed on top under the rear sight. It has mostly matching numbers except a couple nitpicky parts. Right beside the rear sight, 7.90 is stamped into the barrel. Is any of this information good enough to identify what it’s chambered in? I know that’s a long shot question and I probably should slug the bore, but the closest store that sells those balls in 78 miles away from me. I honestly feel like it would be easier to buy various Mauser cartridges, rule out the smaller calibers, and the biggest one that easily chambers with the bolt locked should be the correct bullet. I’d still take it to a gunsmith to see what he had to say. I read somewhere that “most 8mm mausers especially the German ones will have 7.90-7.93 stamped into the barrel.” Idk. I just would kind of figure that more records and information would’ve been recorded about these oddball firearms. I can send pictures when I get off of work in a couple hours. Thank you in advance.</p>
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Help with model/chamber of Mauser.

Any one knows about this mauser? ... more pictures. 

All original numbers, milled floor plate, #7846 with Nazi eagle throughout, cracked stock repaired (probably in the field) with dowel? I’ve attached a WW1 “Butcher Blade” bayonet since no original bayonet came with it. Some blueing remains on the bolt. Purchased for $300 in 1997. 

<div class="md"><p>All original numbers, milled floor plate, #7846 with Nazi eagle throughout, cracked stock repaired (probably in the field) with dowel? I’ve attached a WW1 “Butcher Blade” bayonet since no original bayonet came with it. Some blueing remains on the bolt. Purchased for $300 in 1997. </p>
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1943 K98

If anyone has any information on this rifle, its my first milsurp and iv just started collecting. Any info would be awesome.

<div class="md"><p>If anyone has any information on this rifle, its my first milsurp and iv just started collecting. Any info would be awesome.</p>
</div>

Ceskoslovenska Zbrojovka Brno VZ 24 (BR 82) 1939. Stock has BR23266 ON IT

Any one knows about this mauser?

I have a buddy who’s selling a really clean Argentine Mauser in 7.65x53, he’s asking 500 for it. Is that a good price for it or should he ask more or less for it? 

<div class="md"><p>I have a buddy who’s selling a really clean Argentine Mauser in 7.65x53, he’s asking 500 for it. Is that a good price for it or should he ask more or less for it? </p>
</div>

Argentine Mauser price 

Hello, through all the beautiful old mausers that is on this reddit I hope I am allowed to make a post about a new model. So I just took delivery of my out of the box Mauser M18F. It has the 3 stage safety, but somehow it stage where the bolt its locked (The right white dot) wont engage. Also when the trigger is pulled, the bolt requires much force to unchamber. Have any of you had any similar problem or know a solution? Sidenote, im new to guns.

<div class="md"><p>Hello, through all the beautiful old mausers that is on this reddit I hope I am allowed to make a post about a new model. So I just took delivery of my out of the box Mauser M18F. It has the 3 stage safety, but somehow it stage where the bolt its locked (The right white dot) wont engage. Also when the trigger is pulled, the bolt requires much force to unchamber. Have any of you had any similar problem or know a solution? Sidenote, im new to guns.</p>
</div>

Safety wont engage - Mauser M18

To start off, I know absolutely nothing about these guns to bare with me. I put a bid on a gun at an auction not thinking I would get it, but looks like no one else was really interested. Just looking to see if anyone could give any info / value guestimate about it. Marked swp45. These are all the pictures I have for now until I get it in possession. 

<div class="md"><p>To start off, I know absolutely nothing about these guns to bare with me. I put a bid on a gun at an auction not thinking I would get it, but looks like no one else was really interested. Just looking to see if anyone could give any info / value guestimate about it. Marked swp45. These are all the pictures I have for now until I get it in possession. </p>
</div>

Swp45

Yugo Mauser M24/47

New to me VZ-24

Received it from an estate, also came with a leather holster with a certain nations insignia on it.

<div class="md"><p>Received it from an estate, also came with a leather holster with a certain nations insignia on it.</p>
</div>

Any information on this?

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<div class="md"><p><strong>Rules:</strong></p>

<ul>
<li>No soliciting or advertising without consent from the moderator.</li>
<li>Posts must be related to the Mauser family of firearms.</li>
<li>Follow site guidelines and <a href="http://www.reddit.com/wiki/reddiquette">reddiquette</a>.</li>
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Interchangeable stock

Collecting Mausers

Mauser 22 Carbine

Help with model/chamber of Mauser.

Argentine Mauser price