/r/myog
Join our community to learn and share how you make your own gear (MYOG). Tents, tarps, hammocks, stoves, packs and anything else you can think of outdoor gear related.
Tips, tricks and How-To's for making your own outdoor gear. Tents, tarps, hammocks, stoves, packs and anything else you can think of.
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/r/myog
Thrifted 2 sleds, one is larger than the other. Putting grommets around it for the paracord/webbing to hold the stuff down.
Got free electrical tubing to use for the lines between the snowshoer and the pulk.
I've used pulks before but this is my first time making my own- I can't remember how long the leads were between myself and the pulk.
Obviously a minimum to not catch with the stride + snowshoe hitting the sled. But too long makes corners and things a pain.
I have a couple small raised bed gardens ones want to cover. Obviously I could use weed cloth or tarp type material, but then I got the thinking that it might look pretty cool with some sort of thick MYOG type fabric. Especially since I finally have an industrial sewing machine.
I would like to make it so I can cover them in the winter (and potentially other times) and open them in the spring. I'm thinking about using grommets or maybe a combination of grommets and Velcro to close them
Any ideas? The main thing I don't know much about related to MYOG type fabrics is which ones let the most and least light through (or if it's basically all the same or won't really make much of a difference).
Have you found a good place to find discarded outdoor gear like tents/jackets/sleeping bags/kites to use for upcycled projects?
Great, after putting in an incredible amount of time to seam rip stuff I've made and wanted to adjust by cutting the threads on one side of the seams every couple stitches, I just learned there is this super easy and fast way to do it :D
Now I also know what the tiny ball is for.
Just putting this out here as I guess I'm not the only beginner stumbling over this sub while learning how to make my own stuff.
Easy video explaining how to properly do it: https://youtu.be/Aw0ZG_oPN0s
Also, if anyone has more tips on this, feel free to put them in a comment, would love to learn more!
Starting to layout my next major project, an ultra light roll top style backpack. Aiming for 55-65l. I have been skimming around the interwebs for people's write ups and whatnot. I'd like to see what people have made, what you've learned/would do differently and why. Some of my main curiosities are around the frame stay system, internal and external compartments or pockets, and yay or nay on 3d spacer mesh for the back.
I am also sure that I haven't uncovered all of the resources out there for builds, so if you know of a well documented project, please link it! Hopefully this will also serve as a resource dump for anyone looking in the future as well.
I'm 100% new to sewing but have read up on the wiki and think I have a grasp on what I need to order to get started on my project. I thought I'd ask before ordering just in case I'm way off so thank you in advance!
I'm wanting to replace the fastex buckles on a backpack with a higher quality model as they currently make a plastic on plastic noise when the pack is loaded and I'm worried about failure. (image below)
From reading on the wiki I plan to order some 100/16 needles and Mara 50 thread for use with the Brother CS6000i sewing machine that was gifted to my wife a few years ago and never used. Am I on the right track with needle and thread size for this project? I'm going to practice on some similar webbing before actually starting on the backpack itself.
Also is there a preferred brand of needle that's considered the best? Singer, Organ, etc?
Thank you in advance for any help and insight! I'm looking forward to using some of the starter stuff sack patterns after this to really get started making my own gear!
I’ve been wanting to upgrade to a proper industrial for a long time, and some Juki 9010-SHs have popped up for sale in my area so I’m strongly considering picking one up. The only thing is that I’d classify most of the work i do as “light to medium” duty and am worried the SS variant of the machine would be a better fit. I’ve heard the machines can be converted from one variant to another, but I’m struggling to find information online about the exact differences of the machines and how that’s done.
For reference, my projects range anywhere from 2 layers of lightweight nylon, to ~8 layer sandwiches of xpac, spacer mesh, and grosgrain. Would the SH be able to sew just 2 layers of something like 20D nylon without mangling it? Would the SS be able to handle the 6-8 layer mess while working on backpacks?
I’m aware there’s no machine that’s perfect for everything, but anyone that can share some information on the difference in capabilities between the two variants, and information on how to convert between the two would be greatly appreciated.
Anyone have a pattern or a lead on one?
I want to make a pair of shorts and a few fleece hoodies, I have a little bit of cashed saved up and saw a Juki DDL-9000C-SMS variant come up for sale with 212 hours of use on it(is that alot?) for $1200. Would this be a good buy it for life purchase if I want to get one really nice sewing machine?
Can someone please help explain the differences I am seeing between the SMS model I am considering and the SSH, FMS and FSH Juki 9000's.
The digital vs full digital, semi dry vs minute dry lube application, what is are the advantages and drawbacks.
$1200 for a $2200 machine has me enticed and I'd rather avoid a cheapy beginner machine as in most hobbies I've found if I pay a little extra at the start for a mid tier piece of equipment I am usually better served in the long run and avoid selling the beginner stuff off.
The manual says it is intended for #11 needle and #9 needle if I am interpreting the different models correctly which it seems there are four different 9000C jukis?
Can someone please school me on this? I'd like to eventually make cordura wallets and waxed canvas/denim cases and if I am understanding correctly I will need a heavyweight machine for this?
Is there some sort of idiots primer for sewing machine choices and learning how not to be so uninformed on this new terminology?
How should I go about inspectingbthe machine before buying it?
Thank you all very much
Hello! I'm trying to find a nice quality of polar fleece fabric for making Patagonia style zip fleeces.
I had some vintage/second hand fleece that has a great texture I thrifted but need about a half meter more for the body of the sweater. I ordered anti-pill brushed fleece from fabric land 280 gsm. I washed it and it just feels yucky and cheap and more plasticy than my second hand material.
Any suggestions on where to find a nicer quality fleece fabric in Canada? Or what to look for other than the gsm for a nicer texture?
Thanks!
Another pack made to test out new version of this pattern.
Approx. 20-30L Main compartment weighing at 13.6 without the waistbelt:
This one is for also sale at the geartrade section: https://www.reddit.com/r/GearTrade/comments/1h4zpt6/wts_myog_ultragrid_pack_2530l_136oz/
Hey again legends, does anyone know how to adhere Goretex (or any non-fraying coated nylon) to a natural fibre like cotton canvas or cotton linen without stitching, like in this picture? I asked the dude at one of my local fabric shops and he said to use UV adhesive.. which seems like maybe a more industrial process. I know there are products like Aquaseal and Seam Grip, though these seem to be more for repairing rips and/or sealing seams rather than fusing fabrics together, and most seam tape seems to be only one-sided. Worse comes to worse I can just topstitch the pocket on, but I really like the no-seam look. Thanks in advance!
Hi r/MYOG,
I'm a beginner sewer keen on learning how to make my own gear. I have an idea for closed cell foam seat that I can sandwich inside of climbing pads so that I have a place to sit when out at the crag. I want to make the bottom out of 1000D Cordura as its durable on rock surfaces and the top out of XPac because its light, durable, and I think would look kind of cool! (Let me know if that's a bad idea)
Is there anything I have to know when sewing Cordura to XPac?
Are there preferred machine settings, needles, or thread that would help this go off without a hitch?
What am I missing if anything?
For context I own a heavy duty singer machine.
Hey Folks! I'm currently making some ultralight crampons, and I recently did some load testing on LU10 cordage tensioners, ( https://us.apparel-x.com/item.php?itemid=1086194 ) because they've been the best cordage tensioners I can find for actually getting a decent amount of tension, besides cam buckles, which are heavy. I thought I'd share! Check out my blog post here:
https://geckogear.co/blogs/news/engineering-insights-gecko-crampon-tensioner-testing
Key takeaways about using cordage tensioners in general:
-using cordage/webbing at the upper limit of a cordage tensioners rated diameter is almost always preferable, for LU10, 3mm cord works best. This is doubly true for webbing tensioners - you can't put 10mm webbing in a 15mm tensioning G-hook and expect it to work well.
-Active cordage tensioning systems such as the LU10, or cam buckles are easier to generate higher tension in vs passive, like a pair of D rings. Depends on what you need in your project
-Lubricity + smoothness matters a lot! Dyneema is much much more likely to slip than nylon, and rougher surface texture of the fiber are much more likely to hold, this can be good or bad depending on your needs. It just takes experimentation. This also goes for the surface of the tensioner, polished stainless D rings slip much easier than an LU10!
Engineering wise, the blog post goes into detail about specific data on LU10 cordage tensioners, and why they're a good choice for your next project, and how you can use a second tensioner to generate mechanical advantage.
If you're curious about how I'm making my own ultralight crampons check out the website here.
Hey, I’m super new to all this. I bought a book years ago about sewing your own gear, and it suggests buying an older machine with an all-metal feed. This machine is on sale locally for $50 and it feels pretty solid to me. Google says that it has an all-metal feed. It appears to have a 1A motor. Any ideas if this would make a good beginner’s machine? I’d love to make backpacks and small bags out of Cordura, possibly small organizers out of leather. Thanks!
Hey! Major backpack aficionado here, have made several posts in lots of backpack subs on the topic.
I finally got what is the closest I can find to my dream bag - a Greg Kiro 22. I like the materials and everything except if it had one more interior pocket for sorting stuff I think that would be the cherry.
TNF Borealis has three major compartments and the smallest outside one has like pen holders and zippered pockets and sleeves for phone n tablets. I would like just simple separation, like a mesh zippered pocket inside of another - like a pencil case.
The Greg bag has a laptop sleeve and a major compartment. Outside it has a smaller one that I use for sunglasses, and inside a similar one but just those two make up the two options for sorting things.
My question is how would I add, with the nice materials and zippers and stuff - an organization pocket to the inside of the main compartment like the borealis? Pic related.
My first post here, I hope I’m in the right place!
Doing a custom diaper bag type pack for a family friend, and I’ve been looking for these ports for a hot minute. I’ve tried Amazon, eBay, AliExpress/alibaba. Not sure if I’m just not using the right terminology. I’ve been searching for “sew in usb ports” “covered bag cable passthrough” “plug in bag ports” and haven’t found a single result.
I’m making another batch of fleece hats for local community assistance organizations:
Post your questions, reviews of fabrics, design plans, and projects that you don't feel warrant their own post!
Did you buy too much silnylon? Have a roll of grosgrain, extra zipper pulls, or a bag of insulation sitting around that you want to get rid off? Post it below and help someone else put it to use!