I recently sewed a backpack with removable shoulderstrabs. They connect via webbing to triglides onto the pack. I used the inside out method for the strabs but cant figure out how terminate the strabs at the end… In the picture you can see the end of the strab terminated with binding ö but I don’t like the look of it…. Any suggestions?

I found a ward signature uht j276b at a yard sale, got it to replace the motor on a different restoration im working on. Thing is a unit, cast body and has a gear box running the shuttle! Tested it before I took the motor off and it runs fine. As all old machines do sure it could use some timing adjustment. The dog drop out knob seems stuck but probably something some penetrating oil could fix. Not that there's much free hand embroidery going on in myog anyway... Needs a foot pedal/dual outlet box as well it didn't come with one. The light work and reverse feed work.

Already got my moneys worth from the motor so if anyone wants this vintage tank its yours for the low low price of whatever it costs to mail it.

Sorry if this is against the rules, not trying to advertise or make a sale here, would simply ask for a venmo for the shipping fee.

https://imgur.com/a/mDQs3ra

Was told by r/sewing my question might be better answered here. Is there a difference in application for triglides where the center bar is fixed versus when it slides around?

3D spacer mesh gets full of snow and moisture when using a snow pack in wet conditions or when it's dumping.

A lot of ski packs are using some kind of black fabric material that sheds snow off (see Raide LF 40L backpack for example). Does anybody have an idea what it is? I searched on the sub and other resources but I couldn't find anything. Hoping this sub will help!

I'm also considering just using the main pack material for the back panel, but I'd really like something more breathable to minimise sweating when skinning.

Preparing for winter time running, I was looking at potential changes for my waist light setup. Currently have a waist light that is on some elastic webbing and I’d like to add a fanny pack pouch that can be removed pending the adventure.

Idea is to have a 5mm foam filled backing sewn to the fanny pack pouch, with an opening to run webbing through the center. Thought is that the rigidity of the foam backing would be held in place by the tension of the webbing. While the pouch would be on the other side of the webbing with storage for a phone, rain jacket, gloves, and snacks.

Is this plausible? Or will it just bounce and jump around the entire time? Plan would be to replace the elastic webbing if nylon webbing is needed, but I would be limited to 1” webbing to fit the light housing.

Opinions are welcome!

I’d like to design a 60L ish pack for carrying some fairly substantial weight, let’s say 50-60lbs (camping gear, food for 7 days and camera gear). It’s really important that it is comfortable. I don’t mind the pack weighing an extra 300g to make it comfortable.

Does anyone have any ideas/resources on how to go about designing a frame and back stiffening system? I can make the frame easily enough from carbon stays and 3D print connectors, but I am less sure on the back stiffening. In particularly I want to avoid ‘barrelling’ of the pack when it is full. I do have some packs to refer to but they all have incredibly substantial back systems, huge bits of plastic etc.

Any help or ideas much appreciated!

I'm looking into things like the telogreika and the hanten, quilted winter jackets for Soviet soldiers and Japanese Edo-period commoners, respectively. I'd love if there was some book(s) that already covered quilted winterwear around the world and throughout the ages, ideally richly illustrated... And then I got to thinking, "I want that for all workwear - what are some convergent-evolution-type setups that keep popping up? Maybe people found that when you're in X climate, whether it's on this side of the globe or the other, you want Y features in your clothing." Discussions of materials and techniques, and again, just tons of photos to show examples...

I'm aware that probably nobody's written a multi-volume work on workwear design & history, but still, any recommendations you have along these lines would be greatly appreciated.

I was thinking about designing and making my own fastpacking style backpack (rolltop with lots of pockets on the straps), and I started thinking about when to make straps with foam and when without foam - like in the running vests. Is it dependent of the final weight? And if so, when would you recommend to add the foam? I plan to make something between 20-30L pack, and probably 10kg of gear at max

With so many newer fabrics out there it can be a bit overwhelming to try to research what would fit my goals best. Price isn’t the main focus but keeping the total under $400 would be good. Ultra-light isn’t the main focus but being as light as possible while still being strong enough and giving me the features I want is the main goal.

1: first the easy one: poncho. I made my last one 9 years ago out of 1.1 oz silnylon which was great. Still love it, just time for a redo. Repeat with 1.1 oz silnylon or is there something better now? I don’t want to trade for something that is “crunchier” sounding. Also- any favorite products for seam taping silnylon? I did paint-on silicon on my last one which was ok but it looked pretty homemade, haha.

2: Backpack. I want to re-fit to an existing internal frame/ suspension that I love. Existing pack is 20 years old and has a lot of heavy (cordura classic?) fabric on it that has lasted for over 4000 miles, but I want to lighten it up. It’s ok if this one doesn’t last as long- if its good for 1000 easier miles at 25 lb weight I’d be happy with that. Loads will be up to 40 lbs at max but usually under 25 lbs.

Fabric parts for backpack:

• light but strong and abrasion resistant for the frame, bottom and hip belt attachment areas. Cordura again? Can 300d work or is that too light? Or I keep reading about polyamide?
• main compartment: Seems like dyneema 210 Gridstop is a popular choice? Or X-pac?
• flex panel: I’m going to have a zippered panel and my experience is that a flexible fabric on the panel will make the zippers flow smoother. Any recommendations for a waterproof (or nearly waterproof) stretchy yet strong material? A thinner neoprene?
• side pockets: considering stretch mesh, or? Recommendations on top binding for mesh that is stretchy?
• webbing, compression straps: Is the Venom or hybrid Venom worth it? Or stick with nylon?
• grosgrain: in the seams on more loaded areas of the x-pac/ gridstop: Grosgrain needed? Or are there other tricks out there I don’t know about like sewing in Amsteel/dyneema cordage into the seam?

Thank you for any advice you are willing to share!

I got some alpha direct 120 . If I sandwiched in wind proof fabric . Think that would work and b warm ?

thanks Thom

Does anybody know any nice ski boot bag pattern? It seems there are none and also on the /myog there are mostly ski bags. If none exist, what could be a good base to start modifying? Thanks!

Hi all

I'm looking at buy some meters of Dyneema fabric (not sure which one yet) in the UK, however I just can't find anywhere that will sell me a few meters. Is there a supplier that will do this? Ideally one I can buy several meters from at some point.

Thanks :)

Hi everyone,

I’m a 23-year-old student with a passion for sustainability and fashion. I’m in the early stages of starting an eco-friendly clothing business and want to focus on using fabrics like lotus silk, cotton, hemp, bamboo, milk, pineapple, coconut, and other plant-based fibers.

I know Vietnam is known for producing unique materials like milk fiber, coffee fabric, and lotus silk, but I’m struggling to find reliable sources or suppliers. Can anyone recommend any fabric suppliers, websites, or contacts? Any links or references would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks in advance for your help!

My HMG ultamid 4 zipper is no longer functional. It is a two way that is permanently connected at the top of the zipper. I am looking for advice on how to proceed. It appears the bottom zipper slider is no longer functional - the zipper does not join the teeth consistently anymore. I have cleaned/lubed the zipper and attempted to adjust the broken slider by crimping it with pliers. The top zipper slider does continue to work - it is possible to keep the bottom zipper joined (after very carefully joining the zipper with the broken slider).

Question - is it possible to replace this zipper slider without replacing the entire zipper? What kind of zipper should I be looking for? Also, advice for replacing the entire zipper if that is necessary is also appreciated.

Is there anywhere in the US that sells 8mm (5/16”) webbing?

So funny to see instagram brands doing this. You can essentially get the SAME thing from Senchi, Squak, for 1/3 of the price. Better yet, the supplies to make your own for ~60. #myogforthewin

I'm thinking of designing/ making a lumbar pack but I haven't used them much—if anyone on here has made these before, I'm curious what your thoughts are on the constraints/limitations.

What I'm imagining:

• good padding placement is important to comfort
• junction where hip bends and connects to thigh is lower limit for hip straps
• highest parts of hip bones are upper limit for hip straps
• obviously heavier items should be as close to body as possible

Have I missed anything important? Any other tips?

Thanks!

Hello all !

I'm riding a Brompton for commuting for few years and I'm using a medium Brompton bag.
I'm planning a Bikepacking trip with my Brommie and the front 17 liters bag is too small.

The large Brompton bag were not matching my taste and I was thinking for many year to build my own. So, I ordered fabrics and started the Project on my Singer Prima 20.

The pattern is inspired by my current roll top bag but larger and with a double daisy chain to accepted additional pouch if needed. And I made 2 straps to wear it as a back pack.

Volume should be almost 30 liters.
Some part were really not easy with my sewing machine but I'm quite proud of the final result.

External shell is X-Pac® X11, laminate with organic cotton-duck and lined with Challenge RBC200™, 200den Recycled-Polyester PU-coated.

https://preview.redd.it/e1bas6sx27td1.png?width=1536&format=png&auto=webp&s=500335519d24db28e4f6d3fa037c29794713cb9e

https://preview.redd.it/tsxx4drx27td1.png?width=1536&format=png&auto=webp&s=f153dd4dfdbf84e71f43c2d58a31bfad4ea8bce8

https://preview.redd.it/1hpdwdrx27td1.png?width=2048&format=png&auto=webp&s=f502017342023fff094d6eedf2de4bbb0b09d5f9

https://preview.redd.it/trha4drx27td1.jpg?width=1536&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=608300295c3cc023435d3607579e0c5528a3c5e0

This is the hood from the Roy Robinson poncho-tarp-tent

I was able to blow up the picture on a copier to get it close to 1x1 inch squares.

Can someone post a pic of a finished hood? Especially the front w visor and the extended neck

The instructions only show afar away pic used as a tent.

Thanks