Hi guys,

Was wanting to upgrade my Pacifica with some 57/62 fender pickups. It’s a hss configuration though so I’m not sure what the best way to do this would be. I like the look of the prewired fender pick guard to upgrade the eltronics but not sure if that’s a viable route… any tips? Maybe I could buy the prewired guard and route the body?

Since I changed strings from .010 to .009 on my Fender Strat Plus, the high E string makes a warbly noise ("sitar buzz"). This noise is most pronounced on the open string and the first few frets.

After trying everything to check if the problem wasn't fret buzz or a vibrating part, I found that this can be caused by a worn saddle.

A small groove has worn into the saddle.

Does this looks like the culprit to the experienced eye? Can this be fixed by filing it down a little with a nut file?
Any advice is appreciated as I'm still learning to do guitar repairs myself.

Bought a body from the Stratosphere on eBay and I just never got around to building it because I didn’t know which neck to go with from warmoth. Eventually I ended up getting a STEAL on a strat from FB marketplace that already had SSS pickups.

Anyone know if there’s an easy way to do this? Even if it’s not the PRETTIEST thing in the world it’ll be covered by the pickguard anyway!!

Thanks folks :)

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Hi luthiers, my bass fell off my bed this morning and this happened. Is there any way I can get this fixed? Would it be an expensive fix? I'm not a luthier so I don't really know if this kind of finish (polyurethane?) is something easy to work with, but I'd at least like it to stop flaking. The instrument is a Fender Jazz Bass International Color (Maui Blue).
Thanks in advance for any reply and let me know if this post violates community guidelines in any way

Edit: typo

Hi all, I'm loving this luthier forum. It's a wealth of information.

I'm going to build my first guitar. I got the plans, the tools, and I picked up wood slabs. Sitka, black walnut was my initial plan but when I was buying the wood, I also picked up maple and cherry.

They are around 8ft length and 1.5 -2.5" thick.currently I have them laying in my garage but I'm in Chicago where the temperature fluctuates and it's rainy at this time of the year.

I'd like to rough cut them and bring the wood into the house for stability. As I haven't made a guitar yet, I'm concerned about pre cutting and not leaving myself enough of what I need. Or wasting an unnecessary amount by cutting mach larger than needed and milling them down a ton.

I guess my question is what thickness is ideal for storage, with the ability to saw and bookmatch later. As in, if I cut them into 1/2 inch thickness, leaving myself around 1/4 inch later once sawn, is that going to be enough to work with, or do you leave yourself with more excess?

I know I'm likely overthinking this but if there's a standard for how the wood is prepped and stored, I'd like to get this right first time and without wasting too much.

I did a search here but didn't see the answer to this. Thank you for indulging my anxiety and for any help you can offer!

Hi all…looking for a bit of advice around the best order of checks to make in order to establish the cause of action issues.

I’ve got a 1999 JD Tele and having had it a few months (and shipped it across the world) it’s got buzz from the open strings up. Nothing that all-out stops the strings sounding but enough to ‘feel’ when playing.

The neck is straight, but there was a shim under the neck as close to the body as it could have been - two 1cm strips of veneer, so 0.7mm in total?

So in what order do I test and trial to establish what’s going to get the lower fret action up and the higher fret action down at the same time (or worst case higher frets very slightly down).

I’m ready to add new shims if required, and obviously ready to adjust the action and truss-rod if required. Similarly if the nut needs adjusting, although I think it doesn’t.

Just not sure what to plan, in order to avoid stuff that’s going to be pointless.

Any help gratefully received!

Hello all, once I've finished my paintjob, and want to seal it off, can I use only a High Gloss Acrylic clear coat spray paint as the only layer (multiple coats, maybe 6?)

Is there a need for a clear coat of laquer over the acrylic, is my question?

Y got this Km7 two or three months ago and the spoke wheel was kinda rusted and worn. When I was trying to adjust it it wouldn’t move and then it striped. Do you know any solution??

I've always loved the the scroll basses les claypool used, but I want to buy a scroll body blank, and I'll add a bolt on neck, anany one know who mmight sell one?

Hi,

Looking at getting Clear Brite Tone as I'm not a fan of other toxic options. I know it's not as tough as other finishes, but is it good enough? Does it at least pass the fingernail test? I'm planning to just brush it on, then sand and buff, because I want a fairly decent finish on an opaque colour.

Any other thoughts?

Thanks!

hello everyone, how would i go to sand down the neck so i can play the higher frets easier? its very chunky and it honestly feels like a hassle to even play solos.

Galera blindei a telecaster inteliguei as cavidades e soldei no potenciômetro de volume, porém continua com muito chiado como se não estivesse blindada, quando coloco a mão piora

Hello ive noticed yesterday that my action was a little higher than usual so i tried to adjust the truss rod and noticed that the wheel is loos it moves freely when i shake the guitar and the metal circle above it is also loose and i wanted to ask how to fix it Majesty 7 ~2014 S.N M06038

Note: I am not a luthier, I've done a partscaster and some basic stuff.

So I bought a Greco 335 off reverb from a reputable shop but didn't find out it required a neck reset until after my refund period ended while it was at a luthier shop. Seller didn't know(?) and assured me it "plays fantastic". Luthier diagnosed the neck problem and quoted me 1600 USD with the possibility of damage... the guitar goes for 1000 itself.

Past the 12th fret, it's slightly out of tune and the action is kinda unplayable there too. I can't sell this guitar if I am transparent with people, unless I cut my losses and do it for 300-500 (or I "lie" like the original seller).

On the other hand, I'm open to attempting a neck reset myself and seeing where it goes, the cost of equipment would likely be less than what any tech wants.

It's a bummer because I bought this guitar as a dream instrument in mind and it's been a complete sh*t show the past year for me. I'm a rhythm player so it's great for chords and it's otherwise an amazing sounding guitar and looks fabulous. Frankly, the excitement of the guitar also caused me some tunnel vision towards it's overall quality as an instrument, sunk cost, being an idiot, etc..

Just looking for some wisdom because I have no idea what to do here. The simplest of advice would be invaluable. I'm thinking of just going to guitar center and taking it as a financial beating to not be such an idiot in the future.

Hi, I'm trying to increase the break angle between the tunomatic and bigsby. I remember seeing an attachment that goes onto the tunomatic bridge posts and pulls the strings down between the vibrato and bridge but can't remember what it's called!

Looking for a good luthier/tech who’s very familiar with metal guitar setups. I’m wanting to increase my gauge size a bit, but I know the saddles & nut will need to be filed as well as being re-intonationated. Which I’m not comfortable doing on my guitar (it’s brand new the most expensive I’ve ever owned, I’m scared to do it myself)

It’s a 27in scale baritone, tuned to Drop A. Currently set up with Darddio Baritone Light EXL 158’s (13-62) and I’m wanting to a step up to the 157’s (14-68).

Hello!

I'm new to setups and am working on a MiM strat, 95-96ish era.

After adjusting the truss rod and setting the low E/high E action to 0.06/0.05 inches respectively, I've used a 9.5 inch radius gauge to set the action of the other strings. As can be seen in pic 1, the high E saddle is super low against the bridge and doesn't match the fretboard radius. What could be causing this issue?

Pic 1: High E saddle

Additionally, the intonation is skewing a bit sharp across the strings, and the guitar doesn't seem to want to hold its tune after playing for a short while. Pic 2 shows how the G saddle spring is pulled almost all the way up to the end of the bridge. The tremolo is floating and I'm not sure if it's fighting me when trying to adjust the intonation.

Pic 2: G intonation

Any suggestions would be helpful!

Thanks!

Ended up with a bunch of luthier stuff. I don't build guitars or violins. Thought maybe one of you could do something with it.

Some pickups (one new looking Hot Rail, two single coil Strat), large assortment of tuning pegs, knobs, potentiometers for the knobs, bridges and parts that I don't know.

DM me if you are interested.

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