Posting here as a test, for some reason submitting the post just... doesn't work on /r/guitar?

I recently got a new guitar having started playing again this year. It's an ESP LTD EC 1000, and I love it already.

With my old guitars I always attached schaller strap locks. With this guitar being a heavier one, I was a bit weirded out by the new schaller design with an integrated screw that looks a LOT shorter than the ones with the EC, and bought a Daddario Locking Strap instead.

THEN I saw some horror stories of the thing ripping the strap button out of the guitar, and instead took the strap button off, took the schaller buttons of my Epi LP that was my first guitar, and used the ESP's screws to put them on my EC1000. They fit through the button fine and the black looked good to me, and I figured it'd be good to reuse the same screw thread.

The screw on the lower end of the body took quite a lot of effort to put in, but the one closer to the neck was a noticeable amount easier to screw in. I wouldn't say it was loose, and screwed in pretty tight at the end.

Now I am second guessing myself - should I have done this? Is it a big deal re-using the screw, is it a big deal that the new design schaller locks have a much shorter looking screw? I notice I can buy ones with a longer screw separately, at least.

Hi all I really hope someone can help me. I am looking to buy a thickness planer for my husband but I am unsure of the right one for the job. I also only have a budget of around £300. If anyone could recommend a decent one I'd be very grateful. I am uk based.

Also just for future reference what other smaller things can I buy for him that will be of good use.

Currently trying to find an ebony veneer that is 13.5cm wide x 18.35cm long. Anyone have a good source to order from?

I want to build an 8 string sg style guitar. I know this is difficult because sg body’s are very thin so I’m probably gonna have some kind of neck bracing in the back. I also can’t really find any 8 string necks and I’m not comfortable building a neck on my own quite yet. I don’t want to buy some cheap 50$ neck off of Amazon but I also don’t have $900 to spend on a custom built neck for this project. Any tips and suggestions would be greatly appreciated as this project is a little intimidating but I’ve been thinking about it for a while now.

Have an epiphone casino here I'm going to put a switchcraft toggle switch into. Is the hole the same diameter for both? I know I will have to ream out the other holes but the little information I could find on the specs seem to imply they are both 1/2inch (12mm) holes. Just wondering if anyone can confirm this for me.

I like how stevie ray vaughan had his initials on his strat. I'm thinking of doing the same on a LP, but with the letters SDG (Soli Deo Gloria).

I've thought of a few possible methods:

• Sharpie
• Getting a trophy shop to engrave it
• Stickers

What's the best (or easiest) way?

I am part of the way through designing a headless fretless bass and due to the style of headpiece I'll be using there won't be room for a logo on the headstock/nub. I have noticed that Strandberg and others will play the logo on the body, sort of along the top side of the neck. This would work for me, however I am unsure of the process given the top will be stained flamed maple. If I was to inlay onto this surface it would likely involve brass powder or similar being flooded with ca glue then sanded flush. My concern is that some of the CA glue will wick into the surround wood and make it less able to take the stain. Am I correct in this? Would anyone have any advice on how I can accomplish an inlayed logo onto stained maple? Note that I will be using an oil finish as I don't have facilities for spraying lacquer (and just prefer oil).

I've made up a new body template that turned out a little small so instead of the basic tele neck template, I am going to try a bolt on 24.75" scale neck.

I can't seem to find any resources to just download a free template of that.

Thank you

Years ago a local luthier suggested I use a particular guitar cleaner/polish. After years of use there is now build up on the finish. Anyone have any suggestions on what to use to clean off the build up without damaging the original finish? Possibly mineral spirits ?? Also, a brand of polish that may not leave a buildup.

Started working on a second git while I wait for my finishing supplies to come in. Warmoth neck

I'm trying to reattach a LR Baggs bridge plate pickup and need to remove the old adhesive.
How would you suggest is the best way to do so?

Years ago my local luthier suggested I use a certain type of polish. After several years of use it seems to have started to build up. What is the safest way to remove the buildup without dulling/damaging the original finish? Possibly mineral spirits ??

I'm cobbling together a Mustang from cheap and used parts. Assuming the body is routed like a standard Mustang, can I use a Jaguar tremolo unit?

Is it really true that alnico pickups just inherently sound better? I got the Seymour Duncan Omega/Alpha pickups which are ceramic and they sound absolutely amazing. So what does matter about the magnet?

Happy to upload additional pictures and measurements if needed!

I’ve been slowly working on my second build and started with the neck this time.

I got a nice piece of flamed maple, and after seeing some images of more decorative scarf joints, I figured why not try it out. The scarf on my first plain maple neck ended up looking really interesting in a good way, so I’m making this one even more interesting. I’ll be using an ebony fingerboard, so I made a sandwich of ebony/maple/ebony to stick in the joint.

Neck is now trimmed to shape with truss rod routed. Next step is to figure out what I want for a headstock shape. That and figure out some dust collection for my small work shed. I do use a respirator, it’s just so much to vacuum up!

I’m not sure if this is the right sub for the question, so delete if not allowed

I went to my practice space to play my pbass and the strings were very high off of the fretboard (1/2”), which they weren’t when I was playing a few days ago. I’m no expert, but I’ve done most adjustments myself in the 30 years I’ve been playing. I loosened the strings and tried to make some small adjustments to the truss rod, but it had zero effect. I do feel tension while tightening, but I see no results. The bass is kept in a climate controlled environment, albeit somewhat drafty. I had it on a hanger, which is where we usually keep instruments that are currently in use.

How straight should neck be before feet level?

I bought a few Chibson guitars to practice working on before I move onto my nicer guitars. The playability of this first one is really really good but I want to go through the steps of checking everything anyways.

I’ve taken the strings off and loosened the truss rod until there is no tension. Adding tension seems to make the neck less flat but if this is the wrong process let me know.

Anyways, with a notched straight edge, I’m noticing the entire neck is near perfectly straight except around the 1-5th frets. At the 1st and 2nd fret there is about .5mm clearance and as I move up and past the 5 fret, the ruler shows no major light leak or gaps so it looks completely level.

I’ve attached a photo that shows the fretboard backlit so you can get a look at what I’m dealing with. The nut to is the right in this image.

Is .5mm gap a small enough measurement not to worry about it or is that problematic? When I use a rocker tool to test every set of 3 frets to test for a high point, only about 2 frets on the entire neck rock at all. It’s so minimal I don’t think I’m going to even mess with it.

Thoughts?

Hi,i want to change my pickups but my friend told me its better to assembly piskups by connection block and additional cable on switch and grounding insted of soldering pickups cables cuz this will lower pickups price if i woudl want to sold them out. It sounds not bad idea but i wonder woudl this affect sound quality of pickups mounted this way?

Looking at picking this up, all I know is that it’s a Squire so no high expectations. Was just curious if anyone could tell the would type from the little amount of exposed wood in the pic.

hello, bought a new guitar off of a shop and i thought it was just a simple intonation problem but no it isnt, i shouldve trusted my guts' and my uncle's but now here we are.

it is awaiting a full-setup maybe 2-3 days from now, but i just want to know more info about my problem:

• the first frets plays GBE (which is supposed to be G#CF instead)
• the harmonics are in 6th, 8th, and 13th (instead of the usual 5th, 7th, 12th in normal guitars or atleast what i got used to)

so in summary, my open and 1st fret plays the same notes

what i noticed aswell is that the nut is cut very deeply and it is hitting the fretboard (it makes a really puffed out sound, so i would assume this is a nut problem)

since ive tried my best to intonate the thing and it didnt move a note up (until i figured it isnt a bridge problem)

am i correct? has this problem existed before?