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I made a 3d printed holder that lets me scan a sheet of 4x5 film in two passes using my Epson V600. Files and details are available on Printables: [https://www.printables.com/model/1091581-4x5-film-holder-for-epson-v600](https://www.printables.com/model/1091581-4x5-film-holder-for-epson-v600)

To scan, insert the film and push the holder all the way into the bottom left corner of the scanning window. Then, without adjusting crop/scanning area, slide the holder all the way to the right and press scan again. I use VueScan to lock exposure and get identical raw scans, then merge them in Photoshop.

Any feedback would be appreciated! Example scan attached (Foma 100 developed in Pyrocat-HDC)

https://preview.redd.it/ns0zaptjqh4e1.jpg?width=1280&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f3ec1423a1f86970caf13bf1929dc30277ab3beb

[shot on a super-technika V with apo-symmar 120mm f\/5.6](https://preview.redd.it/h8b9l420rh4e1.jpg?width=7411&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=dbd17087fc3d59c6fd4b4223d48a6bcaa0369934)

<div class="md"><p>I made a 3d printed holder that lets me scan a sheet of 4x5 film in two passes using my Epson V600. Files and details are available on Printables: <a href="https://www.printables.com/model/1091581-4x5-film-holder-for-epson-v600">https://www.printables.com/model/1091581-4x5-film-holder-for-epson-v600</a></p>

<p>To scan, insert the film and push the holder all the way into the bottom left corner of the scanning window. Then, without adjusting crop/scanning area, slide the holder all the way to the right and press scan again. I use VueScan to lock exposure and get identical raw scans, then merge them in Photoshop.</p>

<p>Any feedback would be appreciated! Example scan attached (Foma 100 developed in Pyrocat-HDC)</p>

<p><a href="https://preview.redd.it/ns0zaptjqh4e1.jpg?width=1280&amp;format=pjpg&amp;auto=webp&amp;s=f3ec1423a1f86970caf13bf1929dc30277ab3beb">https://preview.redd.it/ns0zaptjqh4e1.jpg?width=1280&amp;format=pjpg&amp;auto=webp&amp;s=f3ec1423a1f86970caf13bf1929dc30277ab3beb</a></p>

<p><a href="https://preview.redd.it/h8b9l420rh4e1.jpg?width=7411&amp;format=pjpg&amp;auto=webp&amp;s=dbd17087fc3d59c6fd4b4223d48a6bcaa0369934">shot on a super-technika V with apo-symmar 120mm f/5.6</a></p>
</div>

4x5 film holder for Epson V600 with 3D printing

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Hi All. 

Does anyone have a link to useful Cheat Sheet cards that I can print and laminate? Ones that have useful info, specifically for large format like bellows extension calculations, zones and similar Useful info. Maybe even a checklist of things to check before taking a shot etc (the dance I believe it is referred to!!) 

I am still new to fully manual photography, and if I had more experience I would have created my own, but not sure what information I might need. 

Thanks. 

<div class="md"><p>Hi All. </p>

<p>Does anyone have a link to useful Cheat Sheet cards that I can print and laminate? Ones that have useful info, specifically for large format like bellows extension calculations, zones and similar Useful info. Maybe even a checklist of things to check before taking a shot etc (the dance I believe it is referred to!!) </p>

<p>I am still new to fully manual photography, and if I had more experience I would have created my own, but not sure what information I might need. </p>

<p>Thanks. </p>
</div>

Large Format Cheat Sheet Cards

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Roast my negative... What's going on here?

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I see a ton of posts about tall tripods, but am having difficulty finding a solid carbon fiber tripod for shorter people like myself (5' 3".)

I'd be using it for a 4x5 camera and was considering a [Gitzo Traveler Series 0 Carbon Fiber Tripod.](https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1328230-REG/gitzo_gt0545tus_traveler_tripod_ser_0_4s.html/specs)

For reference, I've actually been making do with the [Heipi Travel Tripod](https://heipivision.com/collections/tripod/products/w28-tripod?variant=46766264254750), and it's height is near perfect for me without raising the center column. Just want something more robust and sturdier if at all possible.  
Any suggestions?

<div class="md"><p>I see a ton of posts about tall tripods, but am having difficulty finding a solid carbon fiber tripod for shorter people like myself (5&#39; 3&quot;.)</p>

<p>I&#39;d be using it for a 4x5 camera and was considering a <a href="https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1328230-REG/gitzo_gt0545tus_traveler_tripod_ser_0_4s.html/specs">Gitzo Traveler Series 0 Carbon Fiber Tripod.</a></p>

<p>For reference, I&#39;ve actually been making do with the <a href="https://heipivision.com/collections/tripod/products/w28-tripod?variant=46766264254750">Heipi Travel Tripod</a>, and it&#39;s height is near perfect for me without raising the center column. Just want something more robust and sturdier if at all possible.<br/>
Any suggestions?</p>
</div>

LF Tripod for Shorter People

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I don’t shoot much Ilford HP5, but do enjoy it. Thanks for your help & posing, Greg.

<div class="md"><p>I don’t shoot much Ilford HP5, but do enjoy it. Thanks for your help &amp; posing, Greg.</p>
</div>

Local Film Lab Hero & Friend | Chamonix 45N-2 | Heidosmat 150mm f2.8 | Ilford HP5

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I can’t believe how much information I was able to pull out of a ridiculously thin negative. HP5 is very forgiving!

<div class="md"><p>I can’t believe how much information I was able to pull out of a ridiculously thin negative. HP5 is very forgiving!</p>
</div>

Bait diggers. Chamonix 45F2 / Zeiss 135/3.5 / HP5

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Thinking about dipping my toes into LF.  Intrepid is having a sale this weekend free ship and 10% off. A good deal but nothing ground breaking. 

I have about $1500 ish to spend. When I add the intrepid it’s about $800. I figure $400 for a Nikkor W 150mm f5.6 lens.

Is there something else I should look at? 

Ive also found this Tachihara and while more I’m ok with that or even going over my total budget for something else all together. 

I’m open to suggestions cause I’ll research until the end of time and get decision paralysis 😆

https://www.ebay.com/itm/387599854434?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=vfU1KitLRtm&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=7auNEBAUQTK&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY



<div class="md"><p>Thinking about dipping my toes into LF.  Intrepid is having a sale this weekend free ship and 10% off. A good deal but nothing ground breaking. </p>

<p>I have about $1500 ish to spend. When I add the intrepid it’s about $800. I figure $400 for a Nikkor W 150mm f5.6 lens.</p>

<p>Is there something else I should look at? </p>

<p>Ive also found this Tachihara and while more I’m ok with that or even going over my total budget for something else all together. </p>

<p>I’m open to suggestions cause I’ll research until the end of time and get decision paralysis 😆</p>

<p><a href="https://www.ebay.com/itm/387599854434?mkcid=16&amp;mkevt=1&amp;mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&amp;ssspo=vfU1KitLRtm&amp;sssrc=4429486&amp;ssuid=7auNEBAUQTK&amp;var=&amp;widget_ver=artemis&amp;media=COPY">https://www.ebay.com/itm/387599854434?mkcid=16&amp;mkevt=1&amp;mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&amp;ssspo=vfU1KitLRtm&amp;sssrc=4429486&amp;ssuid=7auNEBAUQTK&amp;var=&amp;widget_ver=artemis&amp;media=COPY</a></p>
</div>

Compact 4x5 

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Tony 5x7

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<div class="md"><p>looking for a durable camera </p>
</div>

Looking for a field camera to a company Pentax 6x7 

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For sale: Nikon Nikkor-M 300 f9

Portrait - Frankenstein 200

Barclay Farmstead - Built in 1816 [Graflex Speedgraphic PH47E, Kodak Ektar 127mm f/4.7, Arista Ortho Litho 3.0]

Winter Wheat | Ektachrome 100 8x10 | Fujinon 240 A f/9 | Intrepid MK2 8x10

No makers mark on the camera at all, there's HE on one of the lenses (540mm focal length marked) anyone have any idea who built it?

<div class="md"><p>No makers mark on the camera at all, there&#39;s HE on one of the lenses (540mm focal length marked) anyone have any idea who built it?</p>
</div>

Camera ID- 5x7 rosewood/blass field camera

Morning mist over El Capitan (8x10 HP5+, Fuji W 300mm, Chamonix Alpinist X)

Crown Graphic 4x5 

Has dual infinity stops so you can easily switch between sheet film and instax wide handheld. 

Comes with lomograflok and original spring back for the camera along with lomograflok spacer. 

There’s a 3D printed mask for the viewfinder, though everyone views a little differently so I highly recommend making your own mask out of paper, based on the one provided. 

Shutter is working exceptionally, all speeds sound tip top. 

Modern cold shoe adapter included. Took a decent amount of time to calibrate, but it’s truly one of the cleanest crown graphics I’ve seen.

$700 + shipping within continental USA





<div class="md"><p>Crown Graphic 4x5 </p>

<p>Has dual infinity stops so you can easily switch between sheet film and instax wide handheld. </p>

<p>Comes with lomograflok and original spring back for the camera along with lomograflok spacer. </p>

<p>There’s a 3D printed mask for the viewfinder, though everyone views a little differently so I highly recommend making your own mask out of paper, based on the one provided. </p>

<p>Shutter is working exceptionally, all speeds sound tip top. </p>

<p>Modern cold shoe adapter included. Took a decent amount of time to calibrate, but it’s truly one of the cleanest crown graphics I’ve seen.</p>

<p>$700 + shipping within continental USA</p>
</div>

Sale: Crown Graphic 4x5 calibrated to instax wide AND sheet film 

Trying the Schneider Symmar 135/5.6 as the 235/12 conversion

I recently purchased a lot from an estate of a photographer, and have several pieces of Sinar Accessories I don't need:

Wide Angle Bellows Sinar #455.36

Binocular Loupes Sinar #471.21

2-Light Hood Sinar #531.00

Multipurpose standard Sinar #437.61

All appear to be as new, still wrapped in plastic and the original Sinar boxes. If anyone has any interest, please send a DM  (photos to follow shortly)

<div class="md"><p>I recently purchased a lot from an estate of a photographer, and have several pieces of Sinar Accessories I don&#39;t need:</p>

<p>Wide Angle Bellows Sinar #455.36</p>

<p>Binocular Loupes Sinar #471.21</p>

<p>2-Light Hood Sinar #531.00</p>

<p>Multipurpose standard Sinar #437.61</p>

<p>All appear to be as new, still wrapped in plastic and the original Sinar boxes. If anyone has any interest, please send a DM  (photos to follow shortly)</p>
</div>

SALE-Various Sinar Accessories

Munch museum in Oslo [Portra 100T | Nikkor-W 180mm f5.6 | Ondu Eikan 4x5]

Cambo SC-2 5x7 - Xenar Typ-D 165mm f3.5

Woodland decay ( Busch Pressman 4x5, Schneider Symmar 135/5.6, Kodak PlusXPan )

Hi all. 

I have a Crown Graphic with a Rangefinder that needs a bit of calibrating. I have only ever used the ground glass, but I am seeing more and more people using the rangefinder to focus. I just wanted to know if people who do have a Rangefinder on their camera actually use it, and if so, how good and accurate is it?? Just wanted to see if it would be worth trying to fix the rangefinder, as I have heard it can be a bit of a pain. 

Thanks. 

<div class="md"><p>Hi all. </p>

<p>I have a Crown Graphic with a Rangefinder that needs a bit of calibrating. I have only ever used the ground glass, but I am seeing more and more people using the rangefinder to focus. I just wanted to know if people who do have a Rangefinder on their camera actually use it, and if so, how good and accurate is it?? Just wanted to see if it would be worth trying to fix the rangefinder, as I have heard it can be a bit of a pain. </p>

<p>Thanks. </p>
</div>

Using Rangefinder with your LF

9 versions in the making. Many hours designing and even more hours printing, I believe I finally have a reliable design for a 4x5 reel to use in a stainless tank that I use for developing 4x rolls of 35mm or 2x 120. I previously designed a rotary developer to help with my return to HC-110 after years of using Diafine. I wanted to standardize my process so it was important for me to have a stricter agitation scheme especially for rolls that were pushed. I recently joined the cool kids in 4x5 after an estate sale find. The holders came loaded with unexposed Kodak Super Speed Ortho Portrait from the 1950s that were unusable despite a few attempts. I used this unusually thick and sturdy film for my initial designs that only pinched them from the side. The hearty thickness of the film fooled me into thinking the rigidity and folded tension would be enough to keep it in the channels. Nope, once wet and with the tumbling action of the rotary processor, the film came loose and stuck to the sides of the tank. Images were still usable but not reliable. Then it became apparent that squeezing 4 sheets (in a smaller steel tank) at once would be a challenge as well as precisely loading 4 sheets in a dark bag became the next lesson. Who would have thought finding a razor thin slot in the dark would be hard? KISS. The designs afterwards were silly and overly complicated. Some were obviously bad once printed that they never made it into the dark bag. Frustrated at one point, I tried to scale up my 35mm and 120 Hewes stainless reels and had the first viable reel. Unfortunately due to the height of the negative, the only way I could securely hold the negative was to grab the tops and bottom by at least 5mm resulting in a 10mm loss (along the long side) in image area. It was also unreliable  because since it wasn’t a long spool, each sheet would want to lean out of the tracks. So the 10mm loss of image area from the track would sometimes result in a straight line or wandering smile of undeveloped area. Towards the end, I learned that it was important to fully constrain the sheet to limit movement during rotary development. The wild design with the tear drop holes (a useful strategic decision to minimize waste in 3D printing) was promising at first but while designing, the thoughts of fluid dynamics and turbulent flow were sowing seeds of doubt that proved to be a problem as shown in a few images where the tear drop imprints were caused by stagnation of the developer despite the rotary developer. My final designs in blue basically swung the pendulum the other way so I designed it to be as low touch as possible. It simply slides in from the top with guide rails to help in the dark. A rubber band secures the whole structure so the negative doesn’t slide out during agitation. My latest test sheet is drying but as far as I can tell, the only marks I see are from the rails from the film holder so I’ll count that as a small victory! If you’ve made it this, thanks for coming along this embarrassingly long but fun design journey. 

Sorry the files will not be made available (I’ve been burned in the past) but you’re free to build off of my lessons learned.  

Thanks!

<div class="md"><p>9 versions in the making. Many hours designing and even more hours printing, I believe I finally have a reliable design for a 4x5 reel to use in a stainless tank that I use for developing 4x rolls of 35mm or 2x 120. I previously designed a rotary developer to help with my return to HC-110 after years of using Diafine. I wanted to standardize my process so it was important for me to have a stricter agitation scheme especially for rolls that were pushed. I recently joined the cool kids in 4x5 after an estate sale find. The holders came loaded with unexposed Kodak Super Speed Ortho Portrait from the 1950s that were unusable despite a few attempts. I used this unusually thick and sturdy film for my initial designs that only pinched them from the side. The hearty thickness of the film fooled me into thinking the rigidity and folded tension would be enough to keep it in the channels. Nope, once wet and with the tumbling action of the rotary processor, the film came loose and stuck to the sides of the tank. Images were still usable but not reliable. Then it became apparent that squeezing 4 sheets (in a smaller steel tank) at once would be a challenge as well as precisely loading 4 sheets in a dark bag became the next lesson. Who would have thought finding a razor thin slot in the dark would be hard? KISS. The designs afterwards were silly and overly complicated. Some were obviously bad once printed that they never made it into the dark bag. Frustrated at one point, I tried to scale up my 35mm and 120 Hewes stainless reels and had the first viable reel. Unfortunately due to the height of the negative, the only way I could securely hold the negative was to grab the tops and bottom by at least 5mm resulting in a 10mm loss (along the long side) in image area. It was also unreliable  because since it wasn’t a long spool, each sheet would want to lean out of the tracks. So the 10mm loss of image area from the track would sometimes result in a straight line or wandering smile of undeveloped area. Towards the end, I learned that it was important to fully constrain the sheet to limit movement during rotary development. The wild design with the tear drop holes (a useful strategic decision to minimize waste in 3D printing) was promising at first but while designing, the thoughts of fluid dynamics and turbulent flow were sowing seeds of doubt that proved to be a problem as shown in a few images where the tear drop imprints were caused by stagnation of the developer despite the rotary developer. My final designs in blue basically swung the pendulum the other way so I designed it to be as low touch as possible. It simply slides in from the top with guide rails to help in the dark. A rubber band secures the whole structure so the negative doesn’t slide out during agitation. My latest test sheet is drying but as far as I can tell, the only marks I see are from the rails from the film holder so I’ll count that as a small victory! If you’ve made it this, thanks for coming along this embarrassingly long but fun design journey. </p>

<p>Sorry the files will not be made available (I’ve been burned in the past) but you’re free to build off of my lessons learned.  </p>

<p>Thanks!</p>
</div>

If at first you don’t succeed, make sure you have enough filament and iterate until you do! My design efforts towards a 4x5 reel for a stainless tank.

Very mint Horseman 45HD kit with:
65mm f7, covers 4x5.
105mm f5.6
180mm 5.6.

3p 4x5 filmholders (2 are Toyo excellent condition).
1 box Fomapan 400 unopened, 25 sheets.
1 box retropan 320 opened, 21 sheets left.

All 3 lenses in original Horseman boards, with caps and shutter release adapter.

Price: 1000euro.

Fujinon T 400mm f9 (also very good condition).
Price: 400euro.

Everything is super mint, shutters works and lenses looks about new. Camera have no real signs of use. Very small and perfect for travel or backpack hikes.

Selling because I have stuff to pay and I only need one large format camera.

Can also contact at instagram (https://www.instagram.com/jonassubvert/profilecard/?igsh=MWFuOXR2Y3BxbmRnaQ==)

Br,
Jonas

<div class="md"><p>Very mint Horseman 45HD kit with:
65mm f7, covers 4x5.
105mm f5.6
180mm 5.6.</p>

<p>3p 4x5 filmholders (2 are Toyo excellent condition).
1 box Fomapan 400 unopened, 25 sheets.
1 box retropan 320 opened, 21 sheets left.</p>

<p>All 3 lenses in original Horseman boards, with caps and shutter release adapter.</p>

<p>Price: 1000euro.</p>

<p>Fujinon T 400mm f9 (also very good condition).
Price: 400euro.</p>

<p>Everything is super mint, shutters works and lenses looks about new. Camera have no real signs of use. Very small and perfect for travel or backpack hikes.</p>

<p>Selling because I have stuff to pay and I only need one large format camera.</p>

<p>Can also contact at instagram (<a href="https://www.instagram.com/jonassubvert/profilecard/?igsh=MWFuOXR2Y3BxbmRnaQ==">https://www.instagram.com/jonassubvert/profilecard/?igsh=MWFuOXR2Y3BxbmRnaQ==</a>)</p>

<p>Br,
Jonas</p>
</div>

Sale: Horseman 45HD kit

Phipps Conservatory [Kodak Ektar | Horseman HF | Schneider APO-Symmar 135mm f5.6]

Moody Falls on an Intrepid Mk II, 135mm Optar | HP5 

How to scan 8x10 film with a digital camera

Trying to scan 8x10, this is best we've come up with so far. 

Rainy Days, Long Island
Linhof Technorama 612 PCII | Schneider Kreuznach APO-Symmar 135mm f5.6 | Kodak Tmax 100

Testing my new-to-me Busch Pressman 4x5 in the woods

I’m making the jump up to printing 5x4 bl ask and white negs on my De Vere 507 with my Varicon head. Was looking for some recommendations on which lens to buy as I don’t own one. 

<div class="md"><p>I’m making the jump up to printing 5x4 bl ask and white negs on my De Vere 507 with my Varicon head. Was looking for some recommendations on which lens to buy as I don’t own one. </p>
</div>

Which lens to use when printing 5x4 

For practitioners and for those who are curious about large format photography.  Ask questions, post your photos, anything goes.

<div class="md"><p>For practitioners and for those who are curious about large format photography.  Ask questions, post your photos, anything goes.</p>
</div>

<div class="md"><p>A community for large format photography of all kinds.</p>
</div>

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