How the hell do I do this.

The recently announced a collaboration with half face blades. Watching the YouTube video I noticed some quality control issues with the sheath. . .

C'mon guys, on the presentation model? 🤦.

Seems every place that does "custom" does not response to emails or messages. I looking for someone that makes hoslters.i would need custom colors but nothing out of the norm.

As the title states, this is a more in-depth guide on getting started in the world of kydex.

Disclaimer: I’m by no means an expert in the art of Kydex holster making. However, after spending the past few years researching, experimenting, and learning from professionals, I wanted to share some insight that could help others looking to get started in this craft. Over the last 2-3 years, I’ve made about 20 custom holsters, focusing primarily on unique items that I couldn't find ready-made solutions for—like EDC flashlights, multitools, and other oddball gear that I carry. Most of my knowledge comes from watching countless YouTube tutorials and talking with experienced holster makers. This guide is meant to provide a comprehensive starting point for anyone interested in creating their own Kydex holsters, whether for personal use or as a hobby.

Before you get started, this website has everything you need to get started. Take the time to look through it and purchase what you need. Find the kydex section of it.

Materials and Tools You'll Need:

1. Kydex Sheet (0.080" or 0.093"): The standard thickness for typical holsters is 0.080" but 0.093" offers extra durability. I typically go for the .80 as it’s easier to work with when compressing. But experiment. 2.      Mold Object: To keep your object safe, wrap it in painters tape. But, keep it smooth and flat to the surface of the object. I never created a mold like a dummy gun like most shops have. I usually use the item that I'm making the holster for. 3.     

Heat Source: Heat gun or an oven set at 300-350°F. Personally, I used both. I would heat the kydex in a small oven for a few minutes and then remove before it curls or bubbles up. Heat guns are for small adjustments and is a little hard to work with for evenly heating the entire kydex. So, small adjustments only. 4.      Foam Press: To apply even pressure to mold the Kydex around the firearm. You can buy it pre-made or build one yourself for close to nothing. You will see different types of foam. The more expensive kind will hold up better and compress better around an object.

• Different kinds of foam presses : KYDEX® Molding Presses & Kydex Press Foam | Holster Making Presses & Forming Supplies | KnifeKits.com
• What I purchased to get started: CKK Sheath/Holster Molding Press (w/Xtreme Foam) - Bench Model - (8 x 12) | KnifeKits.com

1. Clamps or a Vacuum Former: I bought into a press and still used clamps. Use the chain and clamps to get that good form. If you are making your own, make sure you have even pressure all the way around.
2. Gloves: Heat-resistant gloves to handle hot Kydex. I've burnt my fingers way too many times. Not fun.
3. Drill and Bits: For making holes for rivets and belt loops.

8. Rivets and Rivet Setter: To fasten the two halves of the holster together. You can buy the actual machine that will evenly distribute pressure to get that perfect pressed rivet. But, I used a manual ball punch and hammer. Be careful doing the ball punch, you can punch it down and mess up easily. It will come with two parts, the ball punch and the base. Make sure it's straight up and down. If you have the rivet setter machine, it's easier.

• Snap Setters : Snap Setters | KnifeKits.com
• What I purchased to get started : Snap Setter w/Anvil - Hand Setter - (Line 20) - (for Sheath/Holster Snaps) | KnifeKits.com and Snap Setter w/Anvil - Hand Setter - (Line 24) - (for Sheath/Holster Snaps) | KnifeKits.com
• Makes the process easier: CKK Eyelet Flaring Press - Master Series - (For Knife Sheath & Gun Holster Making) | KnifeKits.com

9. Sandpaper and/or Belt Sander: For cutting down the jagged edges after cutting down to size.

10. Dremel or Rotary Tool: For cutting and refining edges.

11. Utility Knife or Kydex Shears: For trimming the Kydex I would typically sand it down to a good part where I knew I had space for the eyelets or spacers would protrude outwards past the kydex sides.

12. Belt Loop Hardware: If you plan to attach the holster to a belt.

13. Measuring Tools and Marker: For precise measurements and marking cuts. You can buy these online and they help out a lot in making straight cuts. I would recommend a white color pencil as you can wipe it away.

 -----------------------------------------------

Step-by-Step Guide to Making a Kydex Holster

Step 1: Design and Plan
Before you start, decide on the style of holster. Measure your object and choose the desired retention level.

1. Choose the Kydex sheet size based on the object dimensions and holster style. A general rule is to ensure the sheet is at least 2 inches wider than the object on all sides to accommodate trimming and molding.

Step 2: Preparing the Mold

1. Prepare the object or mold: tape it to protect the finish, but make sure the tape is flat as the imperfections can show on the inside and outside if it’s bulky. 2. Block out areas: If you want space for accessories like buttons or raised areas, use foam or small objects to "block out" these sections so they don’t mold too tightly. I used the T metal mold inserts you can find online or use popsicle sticks. If you have something that protrudes, it will get caught and hard to remove from the holster. No matter if you loosen the screws for less retention around the button part, it will be loose at some point.

-I mainly used these when creating light holsters.
https://www.knifekits.com/vcom/mountingdrilling-template-fits-safariland-els-p-10012.html
https://www.knifekits.com/vcom/mountingdrilling-template-combo-jig-p-10365.html
https://www.knifekits.com/vcom/mountingdrilling-template-straight-fits-rcs-overhookstrut-thin-p-11943.html
and various other ones. Those T metal inserts will help you get a flat surface to mount your clip to the holster.

Step 3: Heating the Kydex
1. Preheat the oven: Set it between 300-350°F
2. Heat the Kydex: Place the Kydex in the oven to warm it until it becomes flexible and pliable. This usually takes about 2-3 minutes in the oven or a few minutes of constant heating with the heat gun.
*** Avoid overheating as it can cause the Kydex to bubble. As soon as you see the corners bend inwards or curl. It’s time to remove it. Best to quickly add it to the object and press it as soon as it comes out the oven.

Step 4: Molding the Kydex
1. Place the object on the foam press: Position the object or mold on one side of the foam press.
2. Quickly remove the Kydex from the heat and place it over the object.
3. Press firmly: Immediately close the foam press or use a clamp to apply even pressure over the Kydex for about 15 minutes. This helps the Kydex mold to the exact shape of the firearm. Be careful when removing after 15 minutes as your object can still retain that heat since it's being insulated.
***Avoid making any adjustments once its down. You may be able to make an adjustment but keep it compressed. When released, it may look funky. But, that is where you will need to do the trimming.

Step 5: Cutting and Trimming the Kydex
1. Remove the object from the molded Kydex carefully once it has cooled and hardened.
2. Mark the outline: Use a white colored pencil to outline where you want to cut. Follow the objects contours.
3. Cut along the outline: Use a belt sander, utility knife, Kydex shears, or a rotary tool to cut out the shape of the holster. Be sure to leave extra space for rivets along the edges. I would use a band saw, rotary saw, or Dremel for this action as it was quicker.

Step 6: Drilling and Riveting
1. Drill holes for rivets: Place the two Kydex halves together and drill holes for rivets. DO THEM TOGETHER OR THEY WON'T LINE UP.
2. Set the rivets: Use a rivet setter or hand press to secure the Kydex pieces together at the drilled points. Spacers can be used to widen the holster for the desired retention.
3. Test the fit: Before moving on, insert the object into the holster and check the fit. The retention should hold the object in place without making it too difficult to retrieve.

Step 7: Sanding and Refining Edges
1. Sand the edges: Use sandpaper or a belt sander to smooth out the edges of the holster. Pay special attention to areas near the belt loop holes and any sharp edges. 2. Polish edges: To give the holster a more professional look, you can polish the edges with fine sandpaper or a rotary tool attachment. Be careful using a dremmel. With the speed up high you can create dips and burn away some of the kydex.

Step 8: Attaching the Belt Loops or Clips
1. Drill holes: If you’re adding belt loops, drill the holes for the attachment hardware. Use care to place the loops in a balanced location.
2. Attach the belt loops or clips: Secure the loops or clips with screws or fasteners. Make sure the holster sits at the proper height and angle for your preferred carry style.

Step 9: Test and Adjust
1. Insert your object into the holster and check the retention again.
2. Make any final adjustments to the fit, sanding, or placement of belt loops. If the retention is too tight, use a heat gun to make minor adjustments.

Patience is key when crafting the perfect Kydex holster. Achieving an ideal fit can take a few attempts, but don't get discouraged. One of the great things about Kydex is its flexibility—you can reheat and remold it multiple times. However, if your Kydex has a printed design, be cautious, as repeated heating can cause distortion.

I also recommend examining some pre-made holsters to get a feel for the various styles and techniques used. Pay attention to details like spacer sizes, attachment methods, and other design elements that you may want to incorporate into your own creations. If you're making a knife sheath, it might be a bit easier since you'll typically be using eyelets rather than rubber spacers.

Hopefully, this guide helps anyone just starting out with Kydex. With a small investment—usually a few hundred dollars—you can dive into this rewarding hobby. It does take time and practice, but the results are worth it.

Happy Kydex crafting!

So I want to start making holsters for my own gear and possibly my friends. What system do yall recommend? Thank yalll

I need to be able to cut kydex into long strips of uniform width, preferably without leaving a ragged edge that will require more finishing. Besides a scroll saw with a fence, is there any other methods you can think of to do it?

I’m looking for a place to get a vacuum former membrane. I’ve been looking all morning and cannot find one. My box will be a 14”X14”. Suction provided by my large shop vac.

I am going to try making mouse gun holsters and knife sheaths. I went looking at holstersmith and found multiple makers of gun molds. I have no clue about what to look for, which mold makers are considered good, and even why some molds are labeled “natural” while others are labeled “prepped”.

Any guidance on picking pistol molds will be appreciated!

Noobie Starting Point:

I will be using Kydex 100 (0.08), which has a very smooth side and a slightly textured side to it. I expect to run the smooth side out. I will probably give the faintly textured side a bit of silicone spray after the holster or sheath is formed. Or at least that is my plan at the moment.

I have a convection toaster oven lined up, will get molds from holstersmith, and a press too. Anything else I need? I already have some harbor freight clamps laying around.

Note: mouse gun = very small pistol, usually 25/32/380 calibers

I have a Raven Concealment Phantom Light bearing holster for a G19 that I no longer have the gun for. I bought a Glock 17 and put a Radian Ramjet on it. I've been using my G34 holsters for it because that's what they recommend given the little bit of extra length from the comp.

Found the G19 holster in my holster box while looking for something else. I decided to take my heat gun and warm up the muzzle end of the holster and when it got pliable shoved the gun in there. I wore gloves and pressed around on the muzzle end and above the light so it would have some shape.

My question is it doesn't snap on and hold like it did with the gun it was made for. What can I do to try to get a little more retention on it.

So I’m thinking on buying a sidecar holster and I might have to get a heat gun to adjust the fit of the sidecar part that hold the magazine. The magazine I need it to fit is the same shape just a tad bit thicker. How hard would this process be and what kind of heat gun would I need to do it correctly?

So the first several times I used the Swiftpress I bought, it worked amazingly. But since then I have not been able to get enough suction through the mold. Same everything, except now I have even purchased a not inexpensive Robinair 15800, and still same issue. Any suggestions? The kind of definition I'm gettng seen on the sheets behind. Thanks for any help.

https://preview.redd.it/rrv3xuxm3igd1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=79524722ef712be1ea20fab5ba13d00c6f956ccc

I bought a holster molding prop (on target™ g19 p80) from knifekits.com and when I used it to make a holster for a customer, the actual gun did not seat well into the holster. I measured the width of the triggergeard and it a 2mm thicker than the actual gun.

I need advice on which brand has the best dimensions for their molds.

I am looking for a source of “Kydex 100” for making a composite holster. The holster will be formed for smaller guns like Seecamp 32, KelTek P32, and Beretta Tomcat.

So would .060 or .080 be better? These will be AIWB style and the backing will be thick horsehide.

I can’t find any vendors that specify the actual type of Kydex they are selling. So I can’t tell which variant I will be getting.

Yeah, I know I could just ask them and I will, but if there is a vendor out there that includes this in their description, I would like to throw some business their way.

As title says, looking to make my own kydex molds but cant seem to find a material to use. Any suggestions?

I need to find a maker or business who does custom work in ohio, preferably around central ohio

looking for OWB pancake style

thanks for the help