As the Title says... But knife sharpening (almost always an EDC style folder) has been a major hobby of mine for awhile now & have always used the KME.. I collect usually pretty expensive "high-end" folding knives that are hard to come by.. l've used the KME full diamond stone set.. Venev Resin Bonded Diamond Stones (favorite) along with the lapping film kit..

Basically what I'm trying to get at is what are some stone comparisons to the 50Grit BEAST??? Looking to switch it up a little and what are your suggestions or what's your go to for reprofiling a blade???

I always do a total reprofile of the knives I buy and I'm curious as to what else is out there that I could get into and try different things out??

What's the most aggressively cutting stone out there? Or your personal favorite for when you need to remove more than usual amount of steel???

I am still awaiting my KME from the US (Amazon "same-day shipping" is some kind of racket that I haven't worked out yet). I have a few 25-30cm blades on machetes and choppers (that I use in the garden). They are not fancy blades, is it worth the effort on the KME or should I just rough those up with a whetstone?

Maybe it's just because I'm new in the land of KME, I don't know. I find myself becoming increasingly concerned as I wander the shops and purveyors of all things KME looking for this or that add-on that it appears there are a VERY large number of KME branded supplies that are "Out of Stock" or "Sold Out" with no one able to even give an estimate of when it might be "Back in Stock"... Is anyone else noticing this? Is it just seasonal? Or should I start looking around for another system already...

Situation; a couple Leeks that were at 15 degrees and my KME can't get down that far. I thought of a blade extender like the WE but haven't found anything except by Leading Edge but they are only at Gritomatic and Gritomatic isn't stocking them. Any ideas or other solutions? Thanks in advance.

Is it possible to sharpen this on a Kershaw Ken Onion Worksharp? It seems the belt is hitting the thick part of the blade. It also seems that maybe the edge is rolling since I can only sharpen on one side. What should I do?

I’m shopping for a KME sharpening system and I’m going to buy a black Arkansas to go along with it. I already have a freehand strop with stropping compound up to .5 microns. I’m planning on buying .1 micron compound in hopes to get a perfect mirror finish but I want to know if I also need lapping film.

So I just got my KME in the mail today and I'm debating whether I'm going to keep it. I started in the guided sharpening world with the first precision adjust and decided the KME would be the next jump to better quality. With the worksharp i upgraded the stone holder to the gritomatic one, 3 dmt stones, and an angle cube and I was pretty happy. The KME feels a bit sturdier but idk if the price difference justifies it. Does anyone have any experience in both or extensive experience in either and can offer some advice as to why one is better than the other.

I just got three kangaroo leather strops and gunny juice 1um, 0.5 um and 0.25 um. I loaded the strops and just used the 1um and i have never seen a compound cut that fast. I did 4 passes per side and I could see the polish showing up within the first 2 passes. Best sharpening purchase since my kme. 10/10.

I don’t have one. I do have lapping film. I was thinking about putting lapping film over my 1500 stone.

I love the KME system, but I absolutely dread tightening and untightening the clamp. To get it properly tight, it's literally painful. And then to get it loose again afterward can be the most frustrating thing ever.

There must be a good aftermarket mod which makes this process easier.

Going to take this one to 600 then strop for a nice working edge.

Thinking about doing an experiment. I know the KME isn't for thinning or regrinding.

I ordered a Mule Team in AEB-L, and this steel excels with thinness behind the edge.

I know I can hit 14ish DPS if I flip the eyelet on my KME.

How low have y'all gone? Thinking if I clamp the spine as far as possible and I stop before the stone touches the clamp I can get down to 10-12dps and then throw on a 15dps microbevel?

Edit:

Depends on how you learned but I know for some primary bevel = edge bevel; I mean the shoulder or setting a large thin bevel behind the edge aka the shoulder.

I've been practicing with the KME and feel like I can consistently get a very good edge with a lot of my knife steel varieties. It's really tedious having a few dozen brands and trying to find the proper angle on every one.

My initial thought was to just keep a spreadsheet with each model's specs and use that for my sharpening guide, but then I wondered what you guys do.

Have any of you decided to just reprofile a large quantity of your knives to have them all at the same angle and do less adjusting between knives? Is this just a foolish man's way of being lazy? Are there a lot of pros, a lot of cons? Any advice or input would be helpful!

So like the dummy that I am, I didn’t have a precision screwdriver today and decided to try the tip of my Spyderco instead, resulting in two small chips as shown here. To grind these out, do I need to start on a super low grit/reprofile it or should I be able to start at 300 working up and get it out? Any advice before I dive in would be much appreciated!

I just had the strangest thing happen while sharpening my s45vn pm2 for the first time. I was able to match the factory bevel exactly so I thought I would be apexing almost immediately but I didn’t feel a burr forming. I sharpened for a while on each side and I think I felt the very very beginning of a burr so I kept going but it never extended. I got frustrated and just ran through the rest of my stones because I was over it and when I was done it was laser sharp. Has anyone else experienced this? I think the burr was breaking off as I was sharpening it. On a side note, Spydercos s45vn seemed rock hard compared to my s45vn Sebenza so not sure if this played a role.

I’m just wondering how long the gold series stones will last before they need to be replaced? I don’t sharpen super often so I would imagine they’ll be good for quite a while. How can you tell that it’s time to replace?

Is the abrasive just surface level or throughout? How do you know if it’s too worn down and needs replacement? Thanks in advance!

What’s the best way to sharpen a skinny blade on the kme? On the mini case knives the blade doesn’t seem like there’s enough for the clamps to grab on to without the stone hitting the clamp.

Ok so I’ve sharpened a couple knives on my kme, a Crkt Pilar and a Gerber Paraframe, and both came out a lot better than I though they would for my first couple sharpenings. I have a few more budget blades that I could practice on first but my CRK Sebenza is starting to get kind of dull. I’m tempted to sharpen my sebenza next but what do you guys think? Should I practice more before I start on my higher end knives?

Hot damn that thing is awesome! Took a super dull CRKT Pilar to shaving sharp pretty quickly! Definitely happy with my birthday present! Just gotta practice more before I break out the expensive ones 😂

Hello! I was gifted a KME system after expressing an interest in sharpening my own knives, and I couldn't be more excited! I tried it out yesterday for the first time (ESEE 4), but I noticed the spine was a little thick for the clamps, and it made it challenging to keep tight, regardless of the tension. I also noticed some slight wobbling during the process. Any tips to help mitigate the wobble or for using blades with a thicker spine? I have a dozen more questions, but I thought I'd keep it to the overall functionality to start. Thank you all in advance!