I’ve struck gold, although 100000kms it’s in great shape, gave her a scrub tonight, de-gunking fluids and a fresh battery tomorrow

As the title says, just wondering if spending 100$ for this thing is worth it lol. What lifespan can I expect from the KLR anyways? Currently at 12k MI.

So i bought this bike a year and a half ago, and it's been a pain in the ass to start cold or at least myself. Im 150lb and my dads 280lb and can kick the shit outta it and fire it up. I did fix most of the main issues, like old, cracked parts. When it's hot, it's perfect. 2-4 kicks, and i can start it. This bike has the air box mod & drilled cover, 22cent mod. And a big ass main jet. This bike has an issue with high idle and couldn't even idle it down to less than 2,800 rpm before it dies. I'm guessing lean condition when idle but rich when riding. I don't remember the pilot jet size before I rebuilt the carb, but the main jet was 150 written on it. That's huge compared to the stock 118-120 and the 122 they recommend to size up.

I do have spare main jets ( 115-125 ) and a few main jets i drilled out. The biggest is 177.8 or 178 i have is.

Im wondering if a 45 pilot jet to fix my high idle & my drilled 178 main jet could make my bike more rich so i could get those pops and bangs on Decle again when I found out I had a cracked carb to airbox tube.

Or should I just buy $100 of different jet sizes and dial it in myself?

Was thinking of added auxiliary Led lights and a GPS. Question is, does the stock stator have the oomph to drive them?

Wanting to rebuild my carb but there’s so many options on eBay that I don’t know where to start or how well they’d work. Does anyone have a link to one that worked for them? Thanks

I'm thinking of attaching one to my pannier rack, and I need to find a way to pump it. I'm thinking of getting one of those 2 gallon diesel heater gas tanks, which means I would need a way to pump the gas, and more importantly find a way to connect it to the carb without somehow flooding the main gas tank, as I want them to drain without needing to transfer gas from one tank to the other. Is it easier to use an electric, or hook up a vacuum pump on the klr?

So bought a klr 250 not too long ago. Had it running multiple times. It won't start now. Checked valve clearance. Wont start. Checked if flooded and cleared that out. Checked timing(more times than I should). Checked compression. I have spark, I have air, I have fuel(not even starting fluid will make it fire). Who is the mastermind that can help me.

so basically, there is no visual play when I push the bars with the front brake, and there is also no obvious movement or clunks from the headset, but the bars seem to jar my hands a fair bit when going over quick small bumps when off road. It just seems odd to me that a fully rigid steering system would jar this much.

Is this normal, or should I check it out?

Basically, due to my own poor reading skills, I accidently torqued the upper subframe bolts on my 250 to 33ft/lbs instead of 18ft/lbs, as I was relying on a klr 650 manual, but it was for the gen 2. To access those bolts, I need to remove my panniers, which is a pain in the ass, so I was wondering if it was worth correcting, or should I leave it, as I didnt strip anything.

Can anybody tell me what they've used to attach the dampers under the fuel tank? I mean the orangish half circle ones, not the round black rubber ones at the front. Mine were significantly disintegrated and the new ones haven't arrived yet. For all I know, they're peel and stick, but I'm betting they're not. I'm just hoping to figure it out before they get here so I can get them on as soon as possible.

So while changing my countershaft sprocket, I noticed the inner part shaft was oily, and smelled like motor oil. There was no motor oil leaking anywhere else, just a thin film on the actual shaft itself. I was just wondering if this is a countershaft seal leak.

Basically got bored and decided to change up the color of the klr 250. I've only done the from half.

My left turn signal, and fairly certain dash illumination(the thing that lights up your tach,speedo, and temp) have gone bad, and im wondering the bulb model for replacing the both of them. Help is appreciated! Thank you!

I think it’s an uneven air gas mixture, not enough gas. I have to use starter fluid to even make it start and I just installed a new carb kit. Let me know if y’all have any ideas.

So im currently working on my forks (ordered 1l 10w maxima fork oil, hope its enough) and I was wondering which level would be better to fill to for prob 70% on road, 30% off road use. Ive seen people recommending 170mm from the top, but im not sure whether to choose that or the 190mm stock option.(5'6 140lbs)

Howya, I've got a 93 klr250, so long story short when i open up full throttle the bike will start bogging at about 5500rpm then she will pull with full power after that, the carb is clean and set, 122 main, 35 pilot, float level is 17mm from bottom of carb bowl to top of float level.

Any ideas as she is still bogging?

Not sure if this is something unique to engines with auto decompress, but on my old 125cc pitbike, it would start first kick on any stroke of the engine. On the KLR, it flat out refuses to start if kicked on other strokes, unless I first push it to the compression stroke, where it starts first or second kick.

So basically, my KLR 250 front rotor is starting to get pretty scored, but the only rotors I could find, were either used, or costed 100$

I'm working on restoring my 1988 KLR 250 and I'm wondering if redoing the paint and the tank to the original will increase resell value? Or maybe repaint the whole bike black if it's not worth it? Not sure how I feel what would you guys do?

I can only find black ones for the KLR 250 online, and cant seem to trace another color.

I am routinely breaking my clutch and brake levers lol what guards do you guys use or recommend for the KLR? I ride a 1988

Milk crate is love, milk crate is life

I own a KLR 250 that my dad swapped a 650 shock onto, the bike has been sitting for a while so I pulled it apart and noticed the intake hose was rubbing on the shock pretty bad and bent the hose all outta shape. Is there any way I could use asymmetrical spacers to move the shock over so it clears? Or would I be better off just running the original shock?

So basically, people were telling me "this bike won't run right" with the knockoff Ebay carb that seemed a bit smaller than the Oem carb. (I got this bike used without a carb) it seems to idle run and full throttle fine, so I was wondering if there is something to be had if I saved up 200$ for an oem carb?

So basically, every time I turn my bars, the clutch cable rubs against the kill switch connector, which is fixed in place by a bracket. This causes the kill switch to disconnect, and as a temporary measure, I pulled it out of the bracket, which works, but causes the cable to flop around. Any ideas?