Basically got bored and decided to change up the color of the klr 250. I've only done the from half.

My left turn signal, and fairly certain dash illumination(the thing that lights up your tach,speedo, and temp) have gone bad, and im wondering the bulb model for replacing the both of them. Help is appreciated! Thank you!

I think it’s an uneven air gas mixture, not enough gas. I have to use starter fluid to even make it start and I just installed a new carb kit. Let me know if y’all have any ideas.

So im currently working on my forks (ordered 1l 10w maxima fork oil, hope its enough) and I was wondering which level would be better to fill to for prob 70% on road, 30% off road use. Ive seen people recommending 170mm from the top, but im not sure whether to choose that or the 190mm stock option.(5'6 140lbs)

Howya, I've got a 93 klr250, so long story short when i open up full throttle the bike will start bogging at about 5500rpm then she will pull with full power after that, the carb is clean and set, 122 main, 35 pilot, float level is 17mm from bottom of carb bowl to top of float level.

Any ideas as she is still bogging?

Not sure if this is something unique to engines with auto decompress, but on my old 125cc pitbike, it would start first kick on any stroke of the engine. On the KLR, it flat out refuses to start if kicked on other strokes, unless I first push it to the compression stroke, where it starts first or second kick.

So basically, my KLR 250 front rotor is starting to get pretty scored, but the only rotors I could find, were either used, or costed 100$

I'm working on restoring my 1988 KLR 250 and I'm wondering if redoing the paint and the tank to the original will increase resell value? Or maybe repaint the whole bike black if it's not worth it? Not sure how I feel what would you guys do?

I can only find black ones for the KLR 250 online, and cant seem to trace another color.

I am routinely breaking my clutch and brake levers lol what guards do you guys use or recommend for the KLR? I ride a 1988

Milk crate is love, milk crate is life

I own a KLR 250 that my dad swapped a 650 shock onto, the bike has been sitting for a while so I pulled it apart and noticed the intake hose was rubbing on the shock pretty bad and bent the hose all outta shape. Is there any way I could use asymmetrical spacers to move the shock over so it clears? Or would I be better off just running the original shock?

So basically, people were telling me "this bike won't run right" with the knockoff Ebay carb that seemed a bit smaller than the Oem carb. (I got this bike used without a carb) it seems to idle run and full throttle fine, so I was wondering if there is something to be had if I saved up 200$ for an oem carb?

So basically, every time I turn my bars, the clutch cable rubs against the kill switch connector, which is fixed in place by a bracket. This causes the kill switch to disconnect, and as a temporary measure, I pulled it out of the bracket, which works, but causes the cable to flop around. Any ideas?

Does my carburetor not have a pilot screw? This is a cvk keihin carburetor off of a 1988 KLR250. I thought under that silver circle would be the screw but it doesn't come off. Does anyone happen to know? Thank you

So working on my project bike, the foots pegs are a bit effed up. I'm planning on using Cnc footpegs for the klr 650 on the front, since I heard they also fit the 250. I know for a fact the passenger pegs are a different size than the main pegs though, so I was wondering if there were any aftermarket pegs that would fit other than the ugly rubber stock ones.

Since my project KLR is missing a few plastics, and a couple bolts scattered around the bike, I was wondering if there is a way to find them for sane prices( found USED plastics for 100$ and a pile of random rusty bolts for 20$) Jesus.

Since its hard to find new 250 cush drive rubbers, I was wondering if 650 rubbers fit, since they look almost identical.

So in a nutshell, the supposed compatible with klr 250 carb is a bit different than oem. It's missing the push cable for throttle, and seems to be a bit thinner diameter wise. Main issue is that it's a bit shorter, causing the original air filter boot to not fit, but a pod won't fit in the space in the frame either.

Front pads seem to be in supply, but I can’t find anything for a rotor. Any recommendations or company’s that supply?

The yellow box is where the issue is, the worm gear doesn't spin the other gear. Any way to change out the worm gear/fix the issue without having to buy a whole new speedometer? Really wanted to see my bike click over 10k

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Trying to fix the timing on my 88’ klr250 and the only cam sprocket diagram I’m finding Is this one, when I set the sprockets in TDC on this setting the bike won’t start. Does anyone know if this year of the bike has a different sprocket setting ?

So a 2001 somehow found her way home with me today, and am trying to get her cleaned up and ready to party. Didnt get many maintenance records, so i plan on changing all the fluids and filters. Shes a bit faded and i was thinking about hitting her with some rustoleum but wonder if the there is replacement stickers online to be bought. Shes a silver and green one, and the tank is perfect. Bake brake switch was rusted open, so a new one is on the way. The throttle was pretty much stuck but with some spray lube, and a rub and tug, it works perfect again. I would like to get a new chain, but not sure which one to get. Have a new sparky plug coming too. She is a little sluggish but i hope once she gets some new liquids in her, she will perk up. I know she is only a 250 so I am not expecting huge gains. Not sure if a new slipon would help. Pretty happy she still had the original manuals and tools (non rustee!) anything else i need to think of?