Anyone got good auctions that they like for roof racks that can accommodate a small Thule roof box?

A really odd thing started happening yesterday, and is still happening today. When in EV mode, I starting hearing an unusual hum around 30+ MPH, and the battery & gas level are moving in a way that makes it seem like it's in HV mode, and the ICE is not engaged, which has a distinct sound.

I'm not lead-footing the accelerator which engages the ICE, and the car stays in EV mode the whole time.

Has anyone experienced this, or know what might be happening?

Brought my car to the dealer because of problems with the EPB, ACC. Dealer said the harness associated with it broke and took a picture and showed it to me. They ordered the part but said it may not arrive till next week, they said the car is drivable but I will lose the fancy features for now like ACC, Lane Departure, and the EPB.

Anyone know how much the repair will be?

Looking at buying a PHEV and there's a 2018 Touring available with 130k miles used. This would be my first car, and I might be able to get it for about $12k after the tax credit. Should I go for it, or is this too many miles? Will be able to get to see the car in person on Sunday, but what would you recommend? Thank you!

2018 Clarity Touring

39k miles

Was on the highway last night, something big dinged the bottom of my car. All of a sudden all these status alerts are going on the dash. Loss of power. Luckily I was able to make it to the service road with the momentum I still had. 

First of all whatever the object was it must have been huge cuz it got stuck under the car behind me and it was just dragging sparks.

I checked the front undercarriage and I didn’t noticed anything significant. It took a little more scrutiny to see the dent and where it dragged a bit on the splash guard. There was also bit of damage right where the guard ended. What concerns me is that the electric motor is right above this area.

Car can turn on, but it’s not giving me a reading on the battery pack power level.

I used a BlueDriver to scan what's going on and yikes. Hoping it's just a loose wiring harness. But man it was like a Death Star like weak point that got hit on this car.

9 Confirmed Codes

U1603 F-Can Malfunction (Motor Control Module - Battery Condition Monitor Module)

U0110 F-Can Malfunction (Battery Condition Monitor Module - Motor Control Module)

U1204 ECM/PCM IMA-CAN Communication Line with Lost Communication

U012D F-Can Malfunction (Generator Motor Control Module - Battery Condition Monitor Module)

U12A5 Ep-Can Malfunction (Generator Motor Control Module - Battery Condition Monitor Module)

U1206 LOST COMMUNICATION WITH BATTERY CONTROL MODULE 

U0111 Lost Communication With Battery Energy Control Module 'A'

U1205 LOST COMMUNICATION WITH MOTOR CONTROL MODULE 

U0100 Lost Communication With ECM/PCM 'A'

1 Antilock Braking System Code

U0401-68 (Pgm-Fi/Ecm/PcmSystemMalfunction):E

2 Electric Servo Brake System Codes

U0111- Lost Communication With Battery Energy Control Module 'A': No Sub Type

00 Information

U0401- (Pgm-Fi/Ecm/PcmSystemMalfunction):EventInformation

68

2 Electronic Power Steering Codes

C1432- Vehicle Speed And The Engine Speed: Signal Compare Failure 62

CONFIRMED
U0416- InvalidDataReceivedFromVehicleDynamicsControlModule:EventInformation

68

CONFIRMED

9 Powertrain Control Module Codes

U1603- F-Can Malfunction (Motor Control Module - Battery Condition Monitor Module):

00 No Sub Type Information CONFIRMED/P
ENDING

U0111- Lost Communication With Battery Energy Control Module 'A': No Sub Type

00 Information MIL/CONFIRM
ED/PENDING

U1605- F-Can Malfunction (Battery Condition Monitor Module - Motor Control Module):

00 No Sub Type Information CONFIRMED/P
ENDING

U012D- F-Can Malfunction (Generator Motor Control Module - Battery Condition Monitor

00 Module): No Sub Type Information MIL/CONFIRM
ED/PENDING

U1604- F-Can Malfunction (Battery Condition Monitor Module - Twin Motor Unit Ecu): No

00 Sub Type Information CONFIRMED/P
ENDING

U0110- F-Can Malfunction (Battery Condition Monitor Module - Motor Control Module):

00 No Sub Type Information MIL/CONFIRM
ED/PENDING

U12A5- Ep-Can Malfunction (Generator Motor Control Module - Battery Condition

00 Monitor Module): No Sub Type Information MIL/CONFIRM
ED/PENDING

U1206- LOST COMMUNICATION WITH BATTERY CONTROL MODULE: No Sub Type

00 Information MIL/CONFIRM
ED/PENDING

U1205- LOST COMMUNICATION WITH MOTOR CONTROL MODULE: No Sub Type

00 Information MIL/CONFIRM
ED/PENDING

3 Integrated Driver Assist System Codes

U0416- InvalidDataReceivedFromVehicleDynamicsControlModule:EventInformation 68

CONFIRMED
U0420- (EpsControlUnitMalfunction):EventInformation

68

CONFIRMED
U0101- Lost Communication With Transmission Control Module (TCM): No Sub Type

00 Information CONFIRMED

My wife thinks I’m insane for being interested in this, but maybe Clarity owners disagree? The math comes out to approximately 5.7 gallons to drive over 1000 miles but when I filled it up it took around 6.4 gallons of gasoline.

Anyone know what these bars mean? Also the 1-4 on the left?

I had a minor fender bender about 8 weeks ago. I dropped off my Clarity at the body shop for a 7 day repair. At day 5 they called me to tell an important mounting bracket was on national backorder and they couldn’t even sources one second hand. That was 6 weeks ago and still no available parts and my car is still at their shop. The part is unique to the Clarity.

Anyone else have these kind of issues? Is this going to be our future since it wasn’t a widely sold car?

Update: part finally arrived and I got my car back yesterday. So about a 7 week backorder total

152K miles, just bought for $12K. I have error codes from the LKAS, ACC, Road Collision Mitigation, Electronic Brake System, and Brake Hold System. The only thing that actually doesn't work are the LKAS and ACC. I've read through a lot of the advice here and on clarityforum, and my steps so far and plan of action is below. Let me know if I'm missing something or if I'm really just one step away from bringing it to the dealership, which I will if I need to:

Done already:

• Disconnected 12V battery for a half hour

• Disconnected windshield camera and reconnected it

• Vacuumed PRND buttons

• Checked 12V battery health (very healthy)

Next steps:

1. Take it to a Honda-specializing local mechanic to see if it's a brake issue triggering it. In one case I read about, it was a rear brake actuator problem and once fixed, away went the codes and LKAS/ACC came back online.
   1. Ask mechanic, if no brake issue, if they recalibrate Honda Sensing equipment. Try that.
2. Final, last step: bring to dealership. Ask them if fuel pump error may cause these issues, ask them to replace it (I still need that done on this vehicle), and what cost would be to fix these issues.

Thinking of naming her “Zara” or “Zaiah”. Something like this (I’ll take any suggestions).

Past cars were name Skylar, Raven and Girl (I took too long to name this one and always ended up calling it girl lol) hbu??

I took my car in for the fuel pump replacement and now I’m getting this error. At first it gave me the loose gas cap error but that went away by itself after a few hours. I read online that this error might just go away so I’ll wait a few days. I’m just wondering if anyone else has seen this issue.

Is there a cargo cover for the Clarity? If not can anybody share with me any possible solutions for concealing items in trunk? Being that there's a glass window for trunk, I'm uncomfortable with people being able to see in my trunk.

I am able to use the latch under the hood to close the hood, but the hood is not locked when the car is locked. That is what I need to fix. How do I firmly close the hood so it can’t be reopened without using the inside-the-cabin hood release to open it again?

Hello everyone,

I have been searching for a EV plug-in hybrid car for some months now, and am interested in this model.

I have yet to test drive the car, but I was wondering what should I look out for? I know I should do the following:

- Ask for dealership to charge the car battery to full

- listen to any rattling or noises

- Check AC/Heater

Anything else?

Thank you all so much!

EDIT: The car was sold today, bummer, but I will keep a look out for the Honda clarity of my dreams.

Received the official Honda notification via mail Saturday 11/2 stating that the part is now available at my local Honda dealership. Not sure if anyone else has also received this letter? It was simply dated “October 2024” which is pretty vague.

Assumed that this was a different, smaller package and requested the package to be held at FedEx facility.
At about 8 and a half feet, not sure if this'll fit in my clarity with seats folded down.

Edit: 101x9x5 inches

First time car owner, I have a 2018 a Honda clarity. Trip in the Pacific Northwest, pulling into various muddy gravel paths. All was good until we’re about to head back at night, and when I pulled my car out the muddy path, I hear a squeaky sound.

We found out it was from left wheel, it squeaks when I drive, making high pitched “squee squee squee” with every wheel turn. It was quite loud, it can be heard from inside quite clearly.

Luckily the motel wasn’t far, dreading having to deal with this tmr, figured I’ll just record those squeaks and see if any one here has an idea… as I pull into motel, bumping on the curb. NO MORE SQUEAKS, somehow that’s worse. What if it come back on the long drive back?

Any ideas guys? And what should I do?

This is my first ever EV, nevermind hybrid EV so I’m trying to learn how to drive this car most efficiently and keep learning new things as I go. I have a few questions if someone can simplify this for me!

I drive 17 miles to and again from work, highway going 65-80 for half the trip. Then my partner takes the car and drives another 25 miles to work (mostly uphill mountain hills). He charges the car at work so his commute home is not an issue.

I’m wondering - what’s the best mode for me to drive in on my commute so he can get the best battery efficiency for driving over the mountain??

Then to add - long commutes? What mode would you recommend for longer commutes on the highway when you know your battery will die?

When is it better to use HV versus HV Charge mode?

Before realizing the “power” reading for battery being used on the dash, a couple weeks ago I was driving up small hills but had zero battery and the car literally could not get over 19 mph. I thought it was it… but now I’m assuming it’s bc I didn’t know how to drive it efficiently and stepped on the gas too fast in HV mode? The engine sounded horrible.

Last question - how do you work the paddle shifters?? In what mode do you use these? I’ve tried and it doesn’t seem to make a difference in driving.

Thanks in advance clarity fam

I live in Florida where are roads are pretty flat, except for your occasional bridge. I drive my 2018 Clarity on the highway to work doing 65-75 MPH every week day and back.

It’s about 30 miles round trip, and I start the trip with “guessometer” at 40 miles EV at 100% battery.

It used to say about 35 when I first got the car used about a month ago, and went up to about 42-43 after I started driving it more.

Am I accelerating the degradation of my battery by doing this?

I charge it to 100% every night after work.

What’s the highest you’ve seen your estimated ev range? Just got mine to 48.5

Sorry, one more question ... a different dealer offered a full 60K services which included stuff like balance and alignment, cabin air filter and engine filters (which I can likely do myself - I'm pretty hand just no special tools. back in the day I used to change my own oil), tire rotation, and other stuff I don't remember AND the oil, brake and transmission fluids for $750. I thought that was outlandish so asked him what was the bare minimum and he said you should at least do the three fluids. How important are the non fluids? Last question, the latest dealer offered a special fuel injection system cleaning. But since I rarely use my ICE I likely don't need that. Thoughts and thanks!

I own a 2018 Touring which I bought new in 2019. It has 68K miles and I've ONLY changed the oil, tires and brakes 1-2 times. I'm not sure if I've changed the battery, but I did it was only once. Wipers once too. I'm about 3 months past due for my next oil change. I've delayed because I very rarely use the ICE. I don't use my car for commuting to work at all. It sits all week. But I do drive it about 20-40 miles on the weekends. So go EV all the way. The only time I used the ICE is when going out of town on average of 5-7 times a year. Is new brake and transmission fluid advised? How important is that? I like to avoid the high cost at dealers, but called to get a quote in case they might do a better job than a mechanic. I was quoted $80 for oil, but $430 for oil, brake and transmission fluid. Why the huge jump? Also, any other services that you as owners recommend? I could look at the maintenance schedule but thought you'd know better and have more experience. I really don't want to spend extra on unneeded stuff. Thanks

As title says, I have this strange problem with my driver’s side door not locking/unlocking especially when it’s cold. It did work recently when I parked the car outside in the sun for a few days, which makes me think it’s definitely an electrical connection problem that perhaps has something to do with a weak solder? I have to manually flip the lock/unlock button or use my key which is super annoying.

I’m a big DIY’er, and I have my own set of plastic pry tools but I know there’s a lot going on inside those doors so just wanted to check before I open this thing up 🤔

This was in the old sub but making a new post so it doesnt get lost.

I just successfully added a second fob (seller only provided 1 key) for around 100 dollars following the process in this link:

https://blog.lincomatic.com/?p=2243

Im mostly posting to increase visibility of this method since even after finding it I had trouble finding it again to reference

Matrials needed:

Key fob, i bought a used oem one off ebay

Autel MaxiAP200

Important: after getting the dongle you need to email their support to ask for the beta version of the Honda software.