Assumed that this was a different, smaller package and requested the package to be held at FedEx facility.
At about 8 and a half feet, not sure if this'll fit in my clarity with seats folded down.

Edit: 101x9x5 inches

First time car owner, I have a 2018 a Honda clarity. Trip in the Pacific Northwest, pulling into various muddy gravel paths. All was good until we’re about to head back at night, and when I pulled my car out the muddy path, I hear a squeaky sound.

We found out it was from left wheel, it squeaks when I drive, making high pitched “squee squee squee” with every wheel turn. It was quite loud, it can be heard from inside quite clearly.

Luckily the motel wasn’t far, dreading having to deal with this tmr, figured I’ll just record those squeaks and see if any one here has an idea… as I pull into motel, bumping on the curb. NO MORE SQUEAKS, somehow that’s worse. What if it come back on the long drive back?

Any ideas guys? And what should I do?

This is my first ever EV, nevermind hybrid EV so I’m trying to learn how to drive this car most efficiently and keep learning new things as I go. I have a few questions if someone can simplify this for me!

I drive 17 miles to and again from work, highway going 65-80 for half the trip. Then my partner takes the car and drives another 25 miles to work (mostly uphill mountain hills). He charges the car at work so his commute home is not an issue.

I’m wondering - what’s the best mode for me to drive in on my commute so he can get the best battery efficiency for driving over the mountain??

Then to add - long commutes? What mode would you recommend for longer commutes on the highway when you know your battery will die?

When is it better to use HV versus HV Charge mode?

Before realizing the “power” reading for battery being used on the dash, a couple weeks ago I was driving up small hills but had zero battery and the car literally could not get over 19 mph. I thought it was it… but now I’m assuming it’s bc I didn’t know how to drive it efficiently and stepped on the gas too fast in HV mode? The engine sounded horrible.

Last question - how do you work the paddle shifters?? In what mode do you use these? I’ve tried and it doesn’t seem to make a difference in driving.

Thanks in advance clarity fam

I live in Florida where are roads are pretty flat, except for your occasional bridge. I drive my 2018 Clarity on the highway to work doing 65-75 MPH every week day and back.

It’s about 30 miles round trip, and I start the trip with “guessometer” at 40 miles EV at 100% battery.

It used to say about 35 when I first got the car used about a month ago, and went up to about 42-43 after I started driving it more.

Am I accelerating the degradation of my battery by doing this?

I charge it to 100% every night after work.

What’s the highest you’ve seen your estimated ev range? Just got mine to 48.5

Sorry, one more question ... a different dealer offered a full 60K services which included stuff like balance and alignment, cabin air filter and engine filters (which I can likely do myself - I'm pretty hand just no special tools. back in the day I used to change my own oil), tire rotation, and other stuff I don't remember AND the oil, brake and transmission fluids for $750. I thought that was outlandish so asked him what was the bare minimum and he said you should at least do the three fluids. How important are the non fluids? Last question, the latest dealer offered a special fuel injection system cleaning. But since I rarely use my ICE I likely don't need that. Thoughts and thanks!

I own a 2018 Touring which I bought new in 2019. It has 68K miles and I've ONLY changed the oil, tires and brakes 1-2 times. I'm not sure if I've changed the battery, but I did it was only once. Wipers once too. I'm about 3 months past due for my next oil change. I've delayed because I very rarely use the ICE. I don't use my car for commuting to work at all. It sits all week. But I do drive it about 20-40 miles on the weekends. So go EV all the way. The only time I used the ICE is when going out of town on average of 5-7 times a year. Is new brake and transmission fluid advised? How important is that? I like to avoid the high cost at dealers, but called to get a quote in case they might do a better job than a mechanic. I was quoted $80 for oil, but $430 for oil, brake and transmission fluid. Why the huge jump? Also, any other services that you as owners recommend? I could look at the maintenance schedule but thought you'd know better and have more experience. I really don't want to spend extra on unneeded stuff. Thanks

As title says, I have this strange problem with my driver’s side door not locking/unlocking especially when it’s cold. It did work recently when I parked the car outside in the sun for a few days, which makes me think it’s definitely an electrical connection problem that perhaps has something to do with a weak solder? I have to manually flip the lock/unlock button or use my key which is super annoying.

I’m a big DIY’er, and I have my own set of plastic pry tools but I know there’s a lot going on inside those doors so just wanted to check before I open this thing up 🤔

This was in the old sub but making a new post so it doesnt get lost.

I just successfully added a second fob (seller only provided 1 key) for around 100 dollars following the process in this link:

https://blog.lincomatic.com/?p=2243

Im mostly posting to increase visibility of this method since even after finding it I had trouble finding it again to reference

Matrials needed:

Key fob, i bought a used oem one off ebay

Autel MaxiAP200

Important: after getting the dongle you need to email their support to ask for the beta version of the Honda software.

Without a doubt a sharp car that would last 20 years but within 10 minutes I counted about a dozen things I couldn't live with over my Clarity. It's dumb random stuff like rearview mirror view has a full reflection of of rear window, black piano plastic everywhere, 22 mph and below has a loud EV external alert whirl noise that is very loud in the car cabin - ever single time you slow to a stop you have to hear this whine, the shifter stays locked for almost a second after you apply the brakes, the dash board is a cluster-f of 3 letter icons, the display has paragraphs that you are suppose to read while driving, info display is awful, there's weird carpet on many vertical surfaces, the engine is loud (ok, not as bad as the Clarity), the seat is cheap, the plastics are really cheap, the storage was lacking.... On and on ... Somehow this passed for a modern car design. The Clarity is amazing.

An earlier version of this sub is located at r/Clarity. The old sub is now open for viewing in read-only mode. If you’re looking for specific information that can’t be found in this sub, please visit the old sub and try searching the archived posts there.

I see that the r/clarity sub is finally back up. Yay!

Please create a pinned post on this sub or add it to wiki , so that people go search there first before posting here since that has a longer history.

I bought an '18 Touring new and it has almost 57k miles on it and am thinking about selling it and some of my other used cars now that my needs have changed and getting down to a couple registered vehicles. Since I don't drive 20k miles a year on one car I don't see any reason to keep it but want someone to be able to take advantage of the tax rebate if possible. I guess that might not be available as a private party sale?

I used to get charge status notifications (IIRC charge complete, but maybe car unplugged--I think maybe not car unplugged). This hasn't happened for the past few months. Does anyone know if this feature was explicitly removed, or is this just another idiosyncrasy of HondaLink breaking things?

Wondering what the fuel use is for overnight sleeping in the car using them temp control - would be nice on my trips if it was too warm or cold outside. Don't mind paying for a few gallons as it's cheaper than a hotel room

If I mostly drive on highways when I'm driving on EV mode, will the EV range change/decrease at full battery capacity? For example, if tomorrow i start driving mostly on streets, will the range increase at full battery capacity?

Im asking this bc I recently bought a Clarity about 3 months ago with ~50k miles. At first, it gave me ~37 of EV range at full battery capacity. My commute is mostly highway, i only drive about 20 miles everyday, and i charge every night to full capacity. But now, my range fell to ~30 miles at full battery. Is this a sign that i should change the battery? Or is it just my driving habit/conditions?

I've followed the correct procedures to start the remote climate control feature

1. Lock the car
2. Hold RCC button for 5 secs (the front yellow lights flash once, then after a couple of sec flashes a few times more, also a red light inside the instrument cluster flashes as well)

But when i get inside the car, the AC is not turned on, it does nothing.

2020 Honda Clarity Plug-In Touring Edition

I am looking to purchase this vehicle with 45,000 kms. They completed a Battery Pack Capacity test and it came back at 48.3 Ah. Should I be concerned and reconsider the purchase or would you proceed?

I'm looking at buying a used clarity and would like to know capacity before I buy.

People mention that they scan it with OBD ii but not all readers work. Is there a particular reader/app that work well?

Update: the dealer submitted the report and it was accepted. I got emailed the confirmation and completed form. So I'm all set!

I just recently bought a Honda Clarity from a dealer at an amazing price. They told me they only did the tax credit on new vehicles at the point of sale and that I'd have to do the tax credit come tax time. They provided me a sales report.

Just now reading through more stuff, I see that they had to submit the sale within 3 days to the IRS which I asked the sales manager and finance guy about at the time to be sure. They reassured ms that the sales report was all I needed. I think I'm screwed and have until tomorrow to return the car.

I'm gonna raise he'll tomorrow morning at that dealer. With time I don't have cuz of work and other stuff. FML

I want to know if anyone else has been able to get the credit with a late submittal or if there's anywhere else I can ask this.

The original r/Clarity subreddit has been made public again. Please post new questions here in r/HondaClarity, but the legacy history is available for searching.

I am so bummed.

2018 Touring bought new has 90k miles. I'm down to down from 48-50miles on the guessometer to 28-30 in the summer. Living in UT, I'm guessing 23-25 this winter. Dealer told me today the battery is at 86%.

Add to the blown AC I have a cracked windshield that I haven't been able to replace for 6 months. Insurance will replace it at zero cost to me, but can't find one! Dealership told me they'd give me $10k cash or maybe a bit more on a Prologue (which looks great, but I'm feeling a bit burned by Honda cancelling the Clarity)

Has anyone else had a non-dealer replace the evaporator core? I guess you have to pop the dash to get it done. I don't want to drop $2500 on the car, but, I also don't want to buy anything new. (I drive 100 miles/day 3x per week and access to the HOV saves me about an hour a day commute time.)

Again, love this car. I really don't want to give it up. I feel like the car has given up on me...

thoughts? Anyone?

Per Carfax report, no accidents, original AC still working haven't been switch out yet.

I'll probably ask the dealer to pre charge the car so I can see how much battery is left, or should I get a OBD reader to check it out?

Anything else I should check out?

background:

Living in west coast Canada. have level 2 charging at home. (its about CAD $0.22/kwh or USD $0.16/kwh to charge, gas her is about CAD $1.70/L or USD $4.80/Gallon
I want a sedan PHEV so it can surivie in the cold weather.
Currently driving a 2007-2011 Camry hybrid version with 330K Km on it and it has a coolant and engine leak. need to switch out soon. I do about 10-15k per year, mostly city driving

I got my car used over a month ago and I’ve tried to connect with the app multiple times and no luck. I already did the first part successfully where you verify you’re inside the car, but the second part of authorizing that it’s Mine and not the previous owner… it keeps telling me I need to pair with Bluetooth.. but it’s already paired and connected?!?

When I click the HondaLink (in the car settings) it displays the weather and messages (there are none) and other options but no option to click “enable” like the guide tells you to…

Am I missing something?? Please any ideas… thanks 🙏🏼

Hi all! I have been trying to research this issue i've been having and thought maybe someone here knows if this is an issue and what it might be causing it.

When I'm driving my 2018 Clarity Plug-in Hybrid without a charge there is a strange high tone sound (still well within a human vocal range) that lasts maybe a second when the combusion engine starts running. Strangely, this only occurs when the car is moving, and then only maybe half the time. I hear the combustion engine start, and then the strange tone, presumably as the combustion engine is engaging with the rest of the car engine in some way?

I tried looking up how the engine works, and I am guessing it maybe has something to do with either the clutch or the "transmission"? (Transmission in quotes because I guess it's not really the same thing as a normal transmission?)

Does anyone know what this sound is, or if it's something bad? I don't understand cars on a good day, I just try to do the recommended maintenance and hope it keeps working, so I am very perplexed and would appreciate any help you all can give me! Thank you so much in advance!!

I really would like bug/rock hood deflector for my Clarity but I'm having no luck finding anything that would fit. Is anyone using one?