Pretty stoked. I’ll test it out soon. Just need to fit a bucket lid with my cooling coil. Or wait til my 17 gal stainless is ready for a cold crash.

Did all the woodworking, wiring, and everything. I can’t post the video I took of it but I’m stoked.

I’ve been out of the brew scene for about a decade and wanted to know what today’s standard equipment looks like for 30 gallon batches.

When I was regularly brewing H.E.R.Ms was all the rage with a copper coil for ionization, plate chiller, ss magnetic pumps, and a raspberry pi for the control of 2x 15A heating elements, valves and pumps all ran from a website.

What’s today’s crème dele crème ?

What pressure setting do y’all use for hard cider looking for suggestions thanks

I have 20 or so 32oz swing top bottles that I will give to the first person who wants them. We have way too many bottles and we are kegging all but aged beers. We prefer the 16oz bottles.

So I looked these up online and they are worth about $100. They are yours free just DM me and we can make arrangements.

Hey everyone. My best friend and I just decided we want to get into brewing beer. For our first batch, we think it’s best to buy a brewing kit and recipe kit. Does anyone have recommendations? Thanks everyone.

Welcome to the Daily Q&A!

Are you a new Brewer? Please check out one of the following articles before posting your question:

• How do I check my gravity?
• I don't see any bubbles in the airlock OR the bubbling in the airlock has slowed. What does that mean?
• Does this look normal / is my batch infected?

Or if any of those answers don't help you please consider visiting the /r/Homebrewing Wiki for answers to a lot of your questions! Another option is searching the subreddit, someone may have asked the same question before!

However no question is too "noob" for this thread. No picture is too tomato to be evaluated for infection! Even though the Wiki exists, you can still post any question you want an answer to.

Also, be sure to vote on answers in this thread. Upvote a reply that you know works from experience and don't feel the need to throw out "thanks for answering!" upvotes. That will help distinguish community trusted advice from hearsay... at least somewhat!

Welcome to our weekly flaunt your rig thread, if you want to show off your brewing setups this is the place to do it!

I stopped brewing for a while and ignored my yeast collection. This WLP001 was my oldest and has been in the fridge since May 2021.

Early last week, I poured off as much of the black layer as I could and put together a weak starter with 40 g DME, 800 ml water, and a little yeast nutrient. I let that chug away on the stir plate for a few days, cold crashed, poured off most of the clear, and added another 800 ml with 80 g DME.

My WLP066 came back just fine too, but it was only in the fridge for a couple years.

I split the WLP001 starter and will be brewing with half this weekend. The other half will go back in storage, hopefully not for another 3-1/2 years this time.

https://i.imgur.com/nEDQhKs.jpg

So I have an imperial stout cold crashing on raspberries (store bought, frozen). It’s been crashing for about two weeks now. Unfortunately, I had a bad sciatica/back flareup on brew day and am still in no condition to keg the batch, nearly three weeks later. Ferm chamber is set at 36F, final gravity of the beer was 9%. I’m sure all flavor that can be extracted from the raspberries has been, but now I’m starting to fear the mush will start to turn or negatively affect the flavor. Anybody have experience with extended contact time like this?

Hi! I've recently gotten into homebrewing. Just made my first batch from a Northern Brewer kit which turned out great!

I used Kveik yeast since I live in a hot climate and don't have climate control in my house. I was wondering though if anyone had any recommendations short of adding air conditioning to my home (saving up for mini splits!) I've looked at Keezers and potentially converting a fridge to be used as a fermentation chamber but most of these seemed to be more for use in running a kegerator.

I'm hoping to open up the options I have for yeast but also for bottle conditioning and storage. It's rather hard to get anything shipped out here so I'm usually at the mercy of Amazon as other sites will want 2x the price of the item just for shipping. Sadly our only local home brew store I was aware of recently closed (hopefully temporarily). Ideally I'd like to keep it small for now. I'm just brewing 5 gallon batches and will be starting my second, a belgian tribel my brother has made, in a few weeks.

Thanks!

[UPDATE] Thanks for all the great recommendations! I grabbed a 4.4 cubic foot mini fridge, a thermowell, an inkbird, and a heating pad (Bonus: I can also use this as a proving drawer for bread when not fermenting beer) all for just over $100! Weirdly everyone on fb marketplace and Craigslist wanted as much or more for their dirty mini fridges as the new one I snagged on sale. I’m super excited for the amount of control this will bring to my brews! I will see how this setup works out and if needed I’ll upgrade to a reptile heater and add a PC fan. I’m hoping to avoid any electrical work or soldering for this first go. Wondering if the direct heat of the pad may work just as well though.

Today I took my first step back into brewing after a decades long hiatus. Scored a grainfather and followed all the directions to the "T" and still came out below my expected OG. I believe it has to do with my boil off calculations since I put almost 6.5 gal into the fermenter from the batch. Just bummed about the whole experience and looking for advice/encouragement.

For those curious I used the grainfather app with the default profile for the 110v G30 and the following recipe: https://web.brewfather.app/share/q0SHx8b8EeQCKN

This is my first time brewing at home and I used a kit from craft a brew. In the instructions it stated to put a hose in the carboy and the other end in a glass of water for the first couple of days. After a couple of days I put on the air-lock on but I haven’t seen anything happen in the last 2-3 days. Did I mess something up?

I am going to ferment an IPA in a regular 5 gallon keg and was hoping to use the CO2 from the fermentation to purge a secondary/serving keg by pushing Star San from the secondary/serving keg to a third keg. Here is my proposed method, hoping for some feedback:

1. Brew approximately 4.5 gallons of wort, pitch yeast, put a few drops of FermCap in, place in 5 gallon corny keg with floating dip tube installed.

2. Create 5 gallons of Star Sans and place in secondary/serving keg.

3. Place gas jumper from fermenting keg gas post to secondary/serving keg gas post.

4. Place liquid jumper from liquid line post in secondary/serving keg to liquid line post in third keg.

5. Open PRV on third keg OR place quick connect on gas line and just leave it unconnected to anything.

6. After 2-3 days - once Star Sans has been pushed from secondary/serving keg to third keg, remove the gas jumper between fermenting keg and secondary/serving keg, and replace with spunding valve.

7. Set spunding valve to appropriate PSI.

8. Verify FG is reached after 10 days (or whenever).

9. Cold crash over 48 hours. Add gelatin?

10. Pressure transfer beer from fermenting keg to purged secondary/serving keg by using CO2 tank to push beer out with the secondary/serving keg gas valve opened fully.

Question A: Is transferring the (partially probably) carbonated beer from the fermenting keg to the secondary keg an issue? Is it better to transfer before fermentation is complete?

Question B: If I wanted to add gelatin, when would I do that?

Question C: What's the best way to release the pressure on the third keg? open PRV? Gas disconnect?

Sorry for the long post, thanks for any feedback y'all!

I am new and ready to get to home brewing and honestly I am impatient and do not want to wait until my next check to get Star San. Can I use some old moonshine (not homemade, store bought) that I have to sanitize my equipment instead?

Me and my brother are getting into home beer brewing and we started preperaing our first mash and added 700g too much of pilsen malt. How screwed are we? Will the product be drinkable? (We are following the recipe the NEPA recipe on Brew father and we are doing 25l batch in Brew monk B40)

Hello, my danby dkc644bls seems to think that the internal temperature is around 34-38F, but when I put a thermometer inside it’s realistically closer to 55F. I think I may have a busted thermostat, how do I go about fixing this?

Hey folks. Long time beer lover and newbie kombucha brewer here.

I’ve been brewing my own kombucha recently and developed a couple of flavours I really love. One of those being mixed berry (strawberry, blackberry, raspberry and blackcurrant).

I generally bottle, crown cap and drink mine out of a 330ml lager bottle and that got me thinking about hops, and whether I could ferment it with a hop which would pair nicely with the mixed berries to add some depth and I could use it to sit and drink on an evening mid week.

I’ll be honest I know next to nothing about hops. Other than they’ve given different flavour profiles to the many beers I’ve loved over the years. The only one I know the name of is citra.

Any help appreciated and if anyone has any recommendations I’d be most grateful.

Hello!

Midwest Barrel Co. is offering an additional 15% off our already discounted sale prices on our full and large format selection of barrels. Today and Tomorrow only the website will automatically discount orders of 4 or more barrels but if you use the below discount code you can purchase anywhere from 1-3 small format barrels and get the same 15% off! Make sense?

DISCOUNT CODE: REDDITOCTOBER15

Midwest Barrel Company Available Small Format Barrels

Also, a quick reminder that I’m a vendor, so I want to be transparent that I stand to benefit from these sales.

Cheers, and happy brewing!

Ive heard so many different things online. People have claimed that as long as you drink it within a week you won’t notice anything, even if oxygenated. I’ve also heard even a trace amount will ruin a beer within days. What have you guys actually experienced?

So I’ve been carefully and slowly siphoning into a growler that I’ve more or less filled with co2, but obviously I take the top off to siphon into it. So obviously oxygen mixes into the growler to some extent. I then seal, purge a few times, and into fridge for a week then drink.

To me with this process, my beers taste good. Am I technically oxygenating my beers too much and I simply can’t taste the difference? Or is a week timeline not enough to ruin with my process?

So I guess my question is: Does the oxygen I introduce with my process ACTUALLY make a difference and I simply can’t taste it, or is the small amount I get + the fact I drink quickly make it a non issue?

Hi, This is my first brew and I am following a recipe that says it should take 14 days to ferment. I have a Tilt in the fermenter that says my SG is at 1.005 in 4 days.

What would you recommend I do? Do I give it more time, or is it ready to keg?

I will try to attach an image in the comments.

Hey guys, I've seen a kg of apple powder for wine making online and was wondering if anyone had any experience or opinions on it?

It costs around £17 and claims to make 60l of wine, I'm planning on using it for cider.

Could anyone give me any reccomendations on how to use it, or if I should at all?

Cheers.

Welcome to the Daily Q&A!

Are you a new Brewer? Please check out one of the following articles before posting your question:

• How do I check my gravity?
• I don't see any bubbles in the airlock OR the bubbling in the airlock has slowed. What does that mean?
• Does this look normal / is my batch infected?

Or if any of those answers don't help you please consider visiting the /r/Homebrewing Wiki for answers to a lot of your questions! Another option is searching the subreddit, someone may have asked the same question before!

However no question is too "noob" for this thread. No picture is too tomato to be evaluated for infection! Even though the Wiki exists, you can still post any question you want an answer to.

Also, be sure to vote on answers in this thread. Upvote a reply that you know works from experience and don't feel the need to throw out "thanks for answering!" upvotes. That will help distinguish community trusted advice from hearsay... at least somewhat!

I prime the beer and bottle it without expelling the o2 from the bottle with co2, is refermentation capable of considerably reducing the level of 02 inside the bottle?

Just adding a bunch of things to corny keg cart but just looking to get my home seltzer water setup going so no more Costco runs just for loads of cans to recycling bins.

https://cornykeg.com/products/copy-of-10-lb-co2-cylinder?variant=43792693919970

https://cornykeg.com/products/copy-of-corny-keg-2-5-gallon-ball-lock-keg-ss-2?variant=43750968787170

https://cornykeg.com/products/taprite-dual-gauge-regulator?variant=37692884353214

10lb co2 tank is what I can swing for my space setup right now. 2.5 gallon keg that sticks in the fridge and should last us a week. Taprite regulator any other suggestions would be great along with necessary tubing and attachments to get the gas going to the keg. Or any suggestions to make this setup more efficient for daily use. Like is there a beer faucet option where I could dispense conveniently from the fridge? Thanks

I brewed an ESB Sunday. The recipe called for 2 oz hops in whirlpool and I forgot. It accounted for 5 IBUs. Do I steep the hops in 2 quarts of water and add it to the fermenter, do I just throw the hops in secondary or do I forget it and RHAHB?

Hey Guys!

I have a Wee Heavy with a big grain bill planned (about 19 lbs).

I am working with a 120V 10 gallon Clawhammer.

I have done a NEIPA with 18 lbs of grain but it was a major pain and I had my kettle topped out. The beer turned out great but I’m wondering if there’s an easier way (besides upgrading to a 20 gallon lol)

I am considering a reiterated mash but I am wondering how I should adjust water. Is it as simple as cutting the 8 gallons in half? Anybody have advice on the Clawhammer and reiterated mashing?

Thank you!

Anyone snag the riptide pump on sale? 25%off once it hits your cart. Still humming and hawing for my setup.

https://www.blichmannengineering.com/riptide-brewing-pump.html

Hi! I’m making a batch of cider and primary fermentation has started about 8 days ago. I live in a small apartment and the temperature is too high, as I’ve read that low and slow is the way to go. I was wondering if it would be safe to put my carboy in the building’s locker room because it is underground and quite cool. The thing is I’ve had mold on some of my things that were stored in the locker in the past. Since then all moldy items haves been cleaned/removed. I know my carboy is “supposed” to be air tight but I’m also concerned that I might ruin my batch. Let me know what you guys think!

Has anyone had issues closed transferring from brew buckets to kegs with a floating dip tube and a filter? The idea is dry hopping in a keg with a FlotIt, and then pushing out of that keg into a serving keg.

My usual kegging practice w/o floating dip tubes is to push StarSan out of the keg to flush it, then vent as much CO2 as possible while keeping it sealed. I then take the CO2 and connect it to the gas post on my brew bucket. It starts to leak at ~2PSI, so need to get the pressure in the keg below that, otherwise it just blows gas into the fermenter when I open the ball valve. Once the beer is set and flowing, I'll let it run until it sounds like flow stops, then will connect a jumper from the keg gas to fermenter gas. This eventually equalizes the pressure between fermenter and keg, and beer will keep getting pushed, albeit a little slowly.

When I try and do this with a keg with a floating dip tube and filter, I get basically no flow. If I vent the keg completely and push CO2 into the fermenter, it'll flow into the keg for a little bit, then stop. It also seems to help if I close the ball valve, take the liquid disconnect off the post, vent the keg, and then reconnect it all and start again.

All I can think of is that the filter creates enough resistance that the 2PSI isn't sufficient to push from the fermenter. It takes ~10PSI or so to push from the dry hopping keg to a serving keg when I've pushed StarSan out to flush.

This happened during a recent kegging, where I couldn't get the beer out of the fermenter into the dry hopping keg. Short term solution was to closed transfer to a keg with a standard dip tube, and then push the beer from the transfer keg to the dry hopping keg at higher PSI. In addition to being a serious pain in the ass, that's a lot of moving the beer around.

Anyone have any ideas for ways around this?