I have recently sampled this beer and was very impressed by it. After googling and searching homebrewtalk I couldn't find any ready made clone recipe. So I now turn to the hivemind to ask, is there any decent clone recipes of this excellent beer out there?

EDIT: I do find a good selection of clone recipes for Gouden Carolus Classic. Any pointers on how to turn this into a imperial dark version?

I had trouble bottling a batch of beer that I made. I used an auto-siphon with a bottling wand and I managed to fill 1/8th of a 2.5L bottle before it just started pumping foam.

Does anyone have any tips for this? Using a keg really isn’t an option for me.

My municipal water is of very good quality (approx. 30 ppm of each mineral except calcium which is 12 ppm) I only use a carbon filter.

But lately I'm using three times as much phosphoric acid as I used before.

People say that phosphoric acid has a neutral taste but I drank the treated water and the taste reminds me of tonic water.

Perhaps in beer it is not noticeable due to the bitterness of the hops.

The citric acid alone tends to leave a slight taste in beer

Has anyone used a blend of phosphoric acid and citric acid?

My idea is to use half phosphoric and half citric to ensure that neither of them passes the detection threshold

Has anyone ever used a mix of phosphoric and citric to achieve the ideal pH of the mash and sparge?

Does it have any drawbacks?

Picked up this hard seltzer kit for $10, would rather try and make mead than seltzer. Any reason I can't use the yeast and nutrients it comes with. They're already mixed together which seems kinda odd. Never brewed before. Is there a chance that the yeast is poor quality and might ruin my batch? Other than the yeast, I'm just gonna use the glass vessel, bubbler, and santizer that comes with the kit. I don't have the necessary stuff for bubbling, and figure flat mead is probably a lot more appetizing than flat seltzer

Welcome to the Daily Q&A!

Are you a new Brewer? Please check out one of the following articles before posting your question:

• How do I check my gravity?
• I don't see any bubbles in the airlock OR the bubbling in the airlock has slowed. What does that mean?
• Does this look normal / is my batch infected?

Or if any of those answers don't help you please consider visiting the /r/Homebrewing Wiki for answers to a lot of your questions! Another option is searching the subreddit, someone may have asked the same question before!

However no question is too "noob" for this thread. No picture is too tomato to be evaluated for infection! Even though the Wiki exists, you can still post any question you want an answer to.

Also, be sure to vote on answers in this thread. Upvote a reply that you know works from experience and don't feel the need to throw out "thanks for answering!" upvotes. That will help distinguish community trusted advice from hearsay... at least somewhat!

If you are pipeline brewing, you might consider krausening. I have a carboy of actively fermenting beer churning happily away, and I have a carboy of fresh wort ready to pitch. You can use the active yeast from the fermenting batch to innoculate the new batch, then repeat without ever buying a sachet of yeast. For those of us looking to safely re-use and recyle yeast and pinch a few pennies per batch, it works great.

Yes, there are sanitation / infection concerns but I have done it lots of times on a homebrew scale with simple clean practices and have never had any problems.

https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/how-to-brew/exploring-the-german-technique-of-krausening/

Bought a Morgan's ginger beer ( not a can but a plastic sealed bag) the other week, I've gone to make a brew and I noticed that about a teaspoon of it has leaked out from the top. It's been pretty warm here around 35° to 40° so I'm putting it down to that. Also, would the yeast that's attached to it be any good now?

This is a hypothetical question - I am not currently planning on brewing anythng but I was just curious

I'm thinking of brewing a red ale for st Patrick's day and maybe a vienna lager.

Whats on your brewing agenda?

I am thinking about getting into home-brewing and want to create a gluten free facto-beer. Also has to be organic. Does such a thing exist? What would I need to get started? Unfortunately not a lot of info online.

Started off planning to do an IPA, and had a bit of mission drift. What do you think this is now?

I wanted to try out using a light Vienna malt and some flaked corn in the base. LHBS gave me a much darker Vienna malt than I thought. Then I added 2 ounces chocolate malt lying around for color correction and dropped the corn. Tried out repitching over my last yeast cake of WLP-009 Australian Ale. Cut down original hop additions to 40 IBUs from El Dorado and Cascade additions.

11LB Durst Vienna Malt 1Lb Carafoam 3oz Chocolate Malt

152F Mash

10g El Dorado @60 10g El Dorado, 10g Cascade @30 10g El Dorado, 10g Cascade @5

WLP009 Australian Ale 60F

OG: 1.053; Target FG: 1.012 SRM 13.5 IBU: 40.9 Est. ABV 5.4

Is this an IPA, a pale ale? is it an Amber, or some kind of janky Altbier?

Has anyone out there had luck brewing with a MIAB and using an all grain recipe? ik the efficiency goes way down and you need to mill the grains finer too. Im planning to make a german pils but want to try the MIAB method

I've brewed 8 batches of beer always reusing the yeast from a previous batch. I started with 1/2 a packet of US-05 in a 1 gallon batch and after the first batch I'm doing 2.125 gallon batches. I leave about 1/2" of beer on the lees in the fermenter, swirl it around, let it sit for 40 minutes, then pour off into a quart jar. A couple of times I split it into two pint jars because I wanted yeast for ginger ale. I just pour the whole jar into the wort for the next batch.

May calculated apparent attenuations have gone from 80% to 86% on my last two batches. For ales that are supposed to finish at around 1.010 I'm getting closer to 1.006.

Is it because I'm overpitching the yeast? If, so should I scale down to a pint jar instead of a quart jar?

Has anyone else seen attenuations over 85% with US-05?

Looking to brew a chocolate porter for my SO. We input the ingredients we have on hand into chatGPT and asked for a chocolate porter recipe. Any feedback on the specifics would be appreciated!

Chocolate Porter

5.5% / 13.8 °P

All Grain

Batch Volume: 5.5 gal

Mash

Temperature — 152 °F — 60 min

Malts (11 lb 13.1 oz)

8 lb 12.7 oz (74.4%) — Briess Brewers Malt — Grain — 1.8 °L

1 lb 1.6 oz (9.3%) — Briess Caramel Malt 120L — Grain — 120 °L

13.1 oz (6.9%) — Briess Chocolate — Grain — 350 °L

8.8 oz (4.7%) — Briess Carapils — Grain — 1.5 °L

8.8 oz (4.7%) — Briess Roasted Barley — Grain — 300 °L

Hops (1.1 oz)

0.83 oz (34 IBU) — Chinook 12.1% — Boil — 60 min

0.28 oz (2 IBU) — Strisslespalt 4% — Boil — 15 min

Miscs

4.4 oz — Cacao Nibs — Boil — 10 min

Yeast

Fermentis S-04 SafAle English Ale 75%

Fermentation — 68 °F — 14 days

Water Profile

Ca2+

 63Mg2+

 6Na+

 50Cl-

 82SO42-

 100HCO3-

Looking for some critique and insight on how much chocolate malt and roasted barley to use in my stout. Aiming for an Oatmeal stout profile. 4.09 gallon batch size (ferment in kegs)

Fermentables (9 lb 6.4 oz)

• 4 lb - Vienna 3.7 °L (42.6%)
• 3 lb - Pale Ale 2-Row 2.8 °L (31.9%)
• 14.4 oz - Oats, Flaked 1.3 °L (9.6%)
• 12 oz - Chocolate Malt 369.7 °L (8%)
• 12 oz - Roasted Barley 475 °L (8%)

Hops:

• 30 min - 0.5 oz - Hallertau Magnum - 14%
• 10 min - 0.5 oz - East Kent Goldings (EKG) - 5%

Lallemand (LalBrew) Nottingham Yeast

Mash at 149 F 60min

I'm just about to start my first brew, it's a starter brew "Muntons Citra Wheat". My question is about yeast, the temperature range is 18-26°C / 64.4-78.8°F am I right in assuming that the warmer the fermentation the faster it will ferment? Also do we want the temperature towards the lower or higher ends of the fermentation to get optimal flavours? Many thanks for your help.

I picked up some S33 (prematurely, seems like), for a future Irish red ale batch. Home Brew Beer recommended it as a dry alternative for its Irish red ale recipe.

Since then, I did more research about S33 (should have done this beforehand). It appears to have low attenuation, and I have seen a number of outright negative comments about it on Reddit.

If anybody has experience with S33, what are your thoughts about it? What beer styles would you use it for, if any?

Made a ginger beer about a month ago, have opened three bottles, with all three being flat. I'm using glass bottles with caps and using 2 drops per 750 ml bottle ,Wondering if anyone else has had a similar issue?

Hello! I've came up with a question today. There's a NEIPA in my FV, which had a stable gravity for 3 days already - 1.019. But total time in FV is 6 days. I've used K-97 yeast (due to biotransformative properties of that strain), mashed at 69-70°C for higher FG. So, the question is, should i leave it for 8 more days in FV or i am good to bottle?
I took a sample and tasted it: it is green, obviously, but not in the terms of fusel alchohols or acetaldehyde/diacetyl. Only off-flavors i pick are grassy notes from early dry hop addition and yeasty aftertaste due to low K-97 flocculation. So, can i condition (in terms of maturing) my beer in bottles and not in the FV?

For those who gonna advice me not to bottle. I am not a fan of kegs, so i try to reduce risks of oxidation as much as i can: ascorbic acid at mash + ascorbic acid and K-meta at bottling, no priming bucket and capping on foam.

Hello, this was my first time making hard apple cider (from fresh pressed apple juice and sugar).

Used campden tablets accordingly, used fresh pressed juice and proper yeast, but got a buttload of fusel alcohols in my end product as I made the rookie mistake of leaving the fermentation vessel in a place that was far too warm.

I still want to drink it, as it was quite the large batch, and I’ve heard that decanting or even simply swirling the cider around in a wine glass and letting the more volatile fusel alcohols evaporate will make it more palatable and give me less of a splitting headache.

If I follow my own suggestions listed above, how much can my cider improve by? Are swirling and decanting fusel-contaminated ciders effective methods? Are there any other effective methods other than the two I listed and waiting half a year or more for the fusels to become esters?

Welcome to the Daily Q&A!

Are you a new Brewer? Please check out one of the following articles before posting your question:

• How do I check my gravity?
• I don't see any bubbles in the airlock OR the bubbling in the airlock has slowed. What does that mean?
• Does this look normal / is my batch infected?

Or if any of those answers don't help you please consider visiting the /r/Homebrewing Wiki for answers to a lot of your questions! Another option is searching the subreddit, someone may have asked the same question before!

However no question is too "noob" for this thread. No picture is too tomato to be evaluated for infection! Even though the Wiki exists, you can still post any question you want an answer to.

Also, be sure to vote on answers in this thread. Upvote a reply that you know works from experience and don't feel the need to throw out "thanks for answering!" upvotes. That will help distinguish community trusted advice from hearsay... at least somewhat!

The once a week thread where (just about) anything goes! Post pictures, stories, nonsense, or whatever you can come up with. Surely folks have a lot to talk about today. If you want to get some ideas you can always check out a [past Free-For-All Friday](http://www.reddit.com/r/Homebrewing/search?q=Free+For+All+Friday+flair%3AWeekly%2BThread&restrict\_sr=on&sort=new&t=all).

Pure Clover Honey, 40oz, Good & Gather™️

Just finished fermentation, and have moved the beer into a fridge to cold crash it for a few days. But I decided to try some of it and it’s super bitter.

Is this normal, smells coming from the bucket are really fruity, but then you taste it and get a long lasting bitter taste that sits on your tongue.

Just wondering if anyone else has had this and will it improve over time?

I’ve brewed cider and wine. I bought a John Bull pilsner extract kit, whilst not the tastiest beer Ive ever had I’ve been served worse in a pub.

Bottling day is rapidly approaching.

I’m using coopers carbonation drops which recommend 2 drops for 750ml.

I’m using 650ml bottles which will probably be 620ml by time I leave space at the top of the bottle, my question is will 2 drops result in great bottle bombs or a nicely carbonated beer ?

Sorry if this question has been asked a 1000 times

I’ve just got a coopers lager extract kit with some brew enhancer 1 for my second brew.

Any recommendations for my third batch ?

I’ll be going to all grain eventually I just want to get comfortable before go in to quick.

Hey all, I poured one of my favourite beers the other day "collective arts brewing good monster" and it had alot of yeast in the bottom of the can. (I poured it into a glass) Instantly though I might be able to use this so I let it sit a few minutes and poured off the beer into another glass to drink and put the yeast aside and created a 1L starter. It started off very slow and I didn't think it was going g to go but a little after a week it took off and finished leaving a very healthy amount of yeast. I cold crashed it and decanted it so it would fit in a Mason jar. I always taste the "beer" off of a starter so make sure nothing funky happened but this one has a tangy taste. Not bad but not good and I'm debating doing a other starter and seeing how it goes or just toss it. I really want to try using this yeast but don't want to ruin a batch. The beer off the starters are never good but I'm always looking for off flavors in case it goes bad. I always overbuild starters and save 1/3 for another brews. I have 4 or 5 yeasts on their 5 or 6th generation still going strong.

I started with 3 liters (thinking im gonna end up with 1.75L) I mashed 200 grams of pale ale malt and 50 grams of wheat malt for roughly an hour at 67°C Then I took out the grains and boiled with hops for roughly 70mins but ended up with less wort than I had expected, so I added around a cup of cold water and put it in an ice bath until around 19°C and pitched 1.5 grams of US-05 directly (I should probably rehydrated it first)

There was some lag time Im not sure exactly how long it was but probably slightly over 12h Then the high activity phase which ended faster than I had expect (its been around 53h and the krausen has already settled back)

I took some wort out a few hours ago and replaced the cover to something more airtight and put the sample in the refractometer which reads in ALCOHOL content instead of gravity... (it read about 22% which is insane and I assume inaccurate?) It smelled REALLY good but tasted like soap... My questions are: is it gonna turn out okay? And is it possible to convert the refractometer reading to gravity without buying a new refractometer?

Has anyone tried making a fermentation chamber out of a portable AC unit? I'm thinking about trying it with one of those A. C units that are on wheels and surround it with foam board, they use for housing for insulation. Of course, I'll leave a cutout for the exhaust air and possibly some sort of vent for fresh air. Has anyone tried this?

I’d like to try making a soda in aluminum cans (Basic 33cl can).
Since I started researching, I’ve only found machines costing at least €500, like this one: Link
Or the Gorilla Can Seamer,  Prices can be even higher as you know.

I also found a slightly cheaper option: Link

but it seems to be designed only for specific PET cans, not aluminum.

Is there a more affordable, possibly DIY solution for sealing aluminum cans? Or is it necessary to invest in an expensive machine?

I know it has been already posted in a way but I’ll give it a shot

Thanks!