I am in the market to buy a VK, ideally a Calais, but open to other VKs for the right money/condition. What this the consensus of the price guide should be. I want something that can drive or be registered almost straight away, not show room conditions but nice or requiring little work. It seems they market is still inflated for them at the moment. Just wanting other people view on it.

Hi everyone just wondering are the hj tonners and hq fronts actually the exact same like interchangeable, cheers

As title suggested. I’ve got the option but I’ve never used it - way to scared

VE SV6 Series 2 - Automatic, 156,000kms on the clock.

Hey guys, turning to you guys for some help as you all know the proper ins and outs of these cars.

I've had this issue the last few weeks, and my constellation of symptoms are just a bit different to everyone else's that I've read up on. Also, I'm sorry in advance for the wall of text.

Two weeks ago, after stopping at a long redlight (Cambell Road and Princess Highway intersection in Sydney if anyone else knows my pain) I was bewildered at my stability control turning off on its own. It happened just as I plugged my phone into charge. Once the light turned green, I placed my foot on the accelerator as you do (with the normal amount of pressure you'd use to move smoothly to 50kms) only to see that the RPM needle stayed firmly put and it took about three seconds of additional pressure to get the car moving. Stability control turns back on, the fault moves off the screen, but the car feels sluggish, and I can literally feel each gear shift up, and every shift down had a clunk. I pulled over turned the engine off, the engine finally cut out 3 seconds after turning the key and it shuddered to a stop. Opened the driver side door which resets the computer, waited about 10 minutes and drove back off. It was fine till the next very long light, where the same issues happened again. I was about a ten-minute drive from my house by the time I got home the check engine light was on. I didn't drive it for three days between then and when my mechanic could squeeze me in. The code was for Rich Fuel Mixture. He cleared the light and asked me to bring it back if it happens once again because then we'd have confirmation of an issue. That was on the 18th of November. I drove off and everything was fine, nothing out of sorts with the transmission, car turned off normally as well.

Reading up about this sort thing online showed that these cars do go a bit hey wire when the battery is faulty or dying, or when a sensor is screwing up. Given that it first occurred when I plugged my phone, I assumed an issue with the battery.

Today the same thing occurred as the other week. However, everything was worse. The car after idling for a while at a red at one point just would not move, the RPM needle dropped to 0, as if the engine was off. Turning the car off and on let me get moving. The gears shifting down entailed a louder clunk. Mind you all, turning off the car and giving it 30 minutes to rest would lead to about 10 minutes of normal driving and normal transmission until the stability control has its error again. Anyhow the check engine light came on once again, I called up roadside assistance as I didn't know if it was a transmission code and if it was safe to drive the car to my mechanic. The code was P0172-00, which the NRMA bloke said might be from a faulty O2 sensor. He believed the downshift clunking was the transmission on its way out. From him I also found out my battery was at half regular capacity however and was likely to die in next few months.

I suspect the battery as I have a pretty engery intensive dashcam and I switched my headlights recently to LED.

Has anyone encountered this sort of issue before? How worried should I be about the transmission?

To save questions, maintenance on the car since I bought it last year include:

• Transmission and Diff Service - Feb of 2024

• Spark Plugs - July of 2024

• Oil changes every 5-7.5k kms.

• Injector Cleaner every 5th fill up (only using 98)

• Throttle Body Clean

I really like both of them maybe the vf more looks wise I don’t know what the difference between the 2 other then price if someone could help me choose if I should save a little bit more for the vf Btw this is my first car

Probably not related at all but I change my alternator a few days ago on my 2013. Now all of a sudden my AC isn’t working…

Plan on and have already started on making it a Clubsport Wagon she needs work but she is my baby

I may be bias, but I’ve had 3 sv6s in my life (VX,VE, VF2) and the vf2 by far is a different level for Holden.

The exterior looks timeless tbh. For coming onto 10 years old, car holds its own.

Interior is definetly the nicest looking, although mylink is garbage.

Engine is solid Feels nice to drive Performance is good for an SV6.

Anyone else agree?

450rwhp Manual-3.9 Truetrac diff gears

Hi everyone just wondering if a hq statesmen front(double headlight) can be put straight onto a hx Ute? (Guard ,bonnet, front nosecone,).

What oil do you run in your 5L?

Hey I’m selling my Holden Captiva LX 2013, it’s got Bullbar & light bar on it & only 60,000km;

What sort of price can I expect to get?

Bought for 12k at 30,000kms + 3.4k for the bullbar

1994 VR Commodore V6 Auto Stratos Blue

Just wondering what sort of offset fits a vz clubsport

Hey guys trying to figure out why I’m getting a clunky noise from the back right when I’ve just installed new springs and shocks. Happens when I drive over uneven ground or bumpy roads. And can also replicate the noise by lifting car from wheel well.

Hi all, I’m looking into buying a secondhand car. One of the options is my area is a 2017 Holden Barina. Could I please get opinions and feedback on whether or not it would be a decent car? My initial google searches on it turn up very mixed reviews, trending negative. Thank you!

Hi everyone just wondering if Wb bumpers can be put on a h series (hx Ute). Are the chassis and bumpers the same measurements through out h - w series? Cheers