Hello! I'm hoping someone here has some experience with drafting hanging sleeves, and could offer me some advice!

I'm working on a robe (not a historical recreation, just using historical design inspo) that's meant to have hanging sleeves, similar to this gown X , but it seems like no matter what I do, there's a massive amount of bagginess in the underarm, and it doesn't... hang nice. I can't seem to find any guides on how to pattern one of these (which seems insane, but google DOES absolutely suck nowadays, so ultimately unsurprising). Everything i've found says to essentially just make a normal sleeve pattern, but slash it open at the top, but that's not working at all, so I must be missing something extremely obvious. Does anyone know of any good guides for how to pattern something like this?

The structure of the robe is a lot like a simple 4 panel medieval kirtle with a gored skirt, which i know is not a style that typically supports sleeves like this, but there's a lot of structure and interfacing in it to support any structural issues arising from the lack of boning.

(I can edit this post to include an image of my issue when I have an opportunity!)

I recently read a newspaper ad from 1804 (in German) that lists for sale "East Indies 3/4 tosatiés" and I cannot find any reference to what "tosatiés" might have been. The term looks French but that hasn't yielded any results. Does anyone have any ideas, or suggestions on resources that might have historical terminology? I can also attach the transcription and original image here.

"Aaron Levi Sohn aus Cassel, empfiehlt sich dem geehrten Publicum; zum erstenmahl mit seinem asortirten Lager; von weißen französischen Waaren, als 7/4 und 10/4 Jaconetts, Bastist, Mouseline, brochirte und brodirte Mouseline, glatte gage Mouseline, Dimitys, Glinghams, Franz und Bock Linons, feinen Batist, ostindischen 3.4 Tosatiés, alle Sorten mouselinen Tücher, feine Calica, 7/4 ordin. Cattune [...]"

https://preview.redd.it/q56uhegd4v7e1.png?width=1640&format=png&auto=webp&s=13f2d371c9cadd371fe176473c20a2bea9dca22a

Scored 10yds x 24” of sheer eyelet lawn. Quite crisp, early 20th c by the selvage. Pattern ideas? Would love 1910-1920 ideas for an XL size.

I’m looking to start an Edwardian gown in the new year and I’m trying to find the best place online to purchase multiple yards of insertion lace? Any recommendations?

I need help NAMING this fabric. Victorian Era- Wool. It has those reds dots that are weaved into it. I just cannot think of a name for it. I need this name for research purposed so ideally if anyone knows of a historical accurate name it would be lovely. Thank you for anyone helping in this detective work.

https://preview.redd.it/rs63h0p3ys7e1.jpg?width=1470&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2baad24c65c537e0828c5492f248e3dda3e01ba8

https://preview.redd.it/a7m125c4ys7e1.jpg?width=2220&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f6db28a9173880bf3b83ec92b51b16ff64cd6cab

https://preview.redd.it/dsxszjv4ys7e1.jpg?width=982&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=12e303d91e71c5ee0a0636d2a7f6fd029ae7212e

I'm about to go out to buy fabric for a Chemise à la reine-inspired (non historically accurate, i want to base it off Bernadette's version)

People say either muslin, Lawn or voile. Which one should i use?? I know there are some differences between them but they are similar. Most sources say muslin. Bernadette used lawn. And voile is similar again. If I could go for the least sheer, strongest option, that would be ideal.

They are all on sale for about $10/m BUT I think I can get 90cm width muslin for like $3 and just piece it at the bottom to make the skirt longer. That way it will be cheaper. So that's a point for muslin.

But I've heard Lawn is a bit sturdier and more tightly woven, which would be preferable, right? Muslin is RIDICULOUSLY sheer and I don't have the proper understructures yet-- I do have a knee length linen shift but no stays :(

I'll be making an underdress for the Chemise out of a less sheer cotton-- I was thinking broadcloth, what do you recommend?

Besides a skirt , petticoats and a bodice, the moy gown and the shinrone gowns..is there anything else to Irish dress besides chitons? I want to do something Irish for my sca garb

Hello :) I am a beginner-intermediate sewer and I'd like to make a pair of half-boned 18th c stays (between 1760 and 1790 preferably)... but I am not quite sure how to start. I want to be on the more accurate side of things in terms of patterns and materials, even if I do end up using my sewing machine for some of it!

Does anyone have recommended patterns or other resources that would be okay with my lack of experience? I've made a modern pair of stays before and that went well, but obviously this is much more complex :)

Thanks!

Hi everyone :) I'm hoping to attend my first Ren Faire next year, and I'm thinking I'll do a 12th century bliaut-inspired gown. I'm honestly really excited!

I just haven't been able to figure out which support garments, if any, would historically be worn with a bliaut - naturally I'll have a shift/chemise/equivalent as a base layer - but in addition to that, I suppose I'm looking for something equivalent to a corset or stays, for bust and back support.

If no such garment exists, I may just wear a modern bra - it is only historical-inspired after all :)

Any insight anyone might have is super appreciated 🩷

I am looking to make a dress reflecting what a woman would wear as an every day dress in California of the 1860s. What should I look at regarding colors and prints on fabric?

Hi group. I am working on a project to grade up a pattern for an 18th century “hessian” regimental coat. I’ve read and watched numerous tutorials on grading via the “slash and spread” method. The tutorials show making three verticals cuts on the “bodice” pieces.

The problem is that the back bodice piece of my coat is extremely narrow. The question is: do you always make three vertical cuts or can you do with two so long as you include the neck and shoulder?

Hi everyone! I'm hoping someone might be able to help. I need to make better under/support garments for my natural form ball gown. I came upon a post that references a train supporting hoop from "Fashions of the Gilded Age Vol 1." Her image here...

Problem: I don't have 250 USD for the one copy that seems to be available online, and I've tried my local libraries -- one copy is MIA and the other literally has the undergarment section ripped out. The next closest copy is several hours drive away.

I was wondering if anyone has the book on hand and if you could tell me if there's more about the garment than just this one image? And if so, is there any possibility you could send me a picture of it? I'd be so very thankful.

Hello all!

I've been looking into adjusting a few of my historical commercial patterns for a better, flatter look. Understandably big pattern companies want to cater to the masses who probably won't be wearing actual 18th century stays like us awesome people and draft their patterns as such. Resulting in a weirdly modern profile with defined uh... boob cups? I.E; M7965. Interestingly, simplicity 8161 doesn't have this problem, god bless you American Dutchess.

Please note I'm not asking to get rid of Princess seams in the bodice, I'm just trying to make it more flat with wayyy less boob definition with the intention of wearing stays underneath.

Has anyone tried this? If so, what method did you use? Would a simple SBA work?

Thank you!

Hi all, I'm sewing a pair of stays(loosely based on an Elizabethan pattern but historical accuracy is not priority) and realized it needs more support. I should have known it was not enough but now I am halfway through sewing the boning channels and it is apparent it needs a thicker fabric. My question is: would sewing a heavier lining material along important seams cut it or do I need to resew all the channels. Its not that any of my fabric is silk or delicate, just that the piece itself could use heft. The fashion fabric is a medium cotton but I used plain linen to to line and interface. This is my third pair of stays, but I am pretty new to sewing, having done a ton in my youth(mostly altering and such), but not picking it up again until earlier this year at the ripe age of 35.

Hi! I'm looking to learn specific embroidery and learn how to create the Folk Dresses of my Polish ancestors. Here's the issue, they came from border towns where multiple historical regions of Poland meet (Kujawy, Z. Dobrzyńska, Mazowse, and Łęczyca). Very Central Poland lol.

Does anyone know how people from border towns determined what folk costume they would wear? Would they be inspired by one another?

This maybe a stupid question, but it has been on my mind for a while. How come hooded clothing, such as hooded coats never really caught on in 19th century America? Was there some societal taboo about it? I mean outside the arctic explorers I never see historical hooded clothing from this time period. It's not like hoods weren't invented yet, people wore them for centuries. I fancy myself something of an amateur local historian and whenever I see photos of people like cowboys, I can't help but think that a hooded coat would have been very effective for an environment like Montana.