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Relight copper LAN, pen light copper and brass, LANapple aluminum. Both the copper lights are 519a 3000k dedomed.

SUPER interested in the SK05, but can it EDC with a clip? I can't find anything on the topic so I'm hoping someone smarter or more inventive than me out there has figured out a way.

I recently bought the Petzl Swift RL 1100 lumen headlamp and I cannot for the life of me get it into a red light mode. The instructions say to long press 4s but that just gets it to blink white 3x. I know it has red leds because I have been able to get it to flash red 3x, but this does not seem to be intentionally repeatable. I have youtubed and googled and come up empty. Any advice?

I have a little GT Nano from a few years ago. It's cute and bright but I'd like to upgrade.

- USB-C charging (direct, without removing the battery)

- Bright enough to really incapacitate someone long enough to take further action (3-5,000 enough?)

- palm-corfortable, ideally pretty small (not GT Nano small, but not like a foot long).

- doesn't roll easily, so I don't mind flat shaped or large heads.

- IDEALLY both spot and flood!

- at least a quite-low option, if not a "moon" option

Any ideas appreciated, even if just a brand or a lumen range! Price isn't really an object but let's stay on earth.

Long time lurker. Techie that is about to start this journey. I configure network equipment for music festivals, so I need a couple (3-5) small lights that can be used in small places. Anduril is a bonus but not required.

Looking for small EDC around 1000lm option (can be more) that can be used with both AA batteries and 14500. Must have magnetic tail cap.

I do not have brand preference as these will be my first major purchases for flashlights :)

I've been in this hobby for a long time and of all the failures I've had, all but one was caused by an electrical switch. Recently, it seems like it's getting harder to find new lights that have mechanical switches. So I'm worried.

Is the market for quality lights moving away from mechanical switches?

Normally use an external charger but when I charged the light with the built in charger the cells all read 4.25 volts. My external charger doesn’t even recognize the cells because the voltage is too high. How dangerous is this and should I return it? I tested the cells with 2 different meters and the anduril read out reports 4.3 v

What is the HS10 like with a primary CR123A battery in it? Sofirn as well as several reviewers state that it will run with a CR123A. No mention of the voltage or whether it works with primary 3.3v or needs some other flavor of 123A cells, which of course would not be CR123A.

I am thinking of keeping an HS10 with my pistol that has an Olight Baldr 1st gen that works only with regular CR123As or equivalent size voltage rechargeables.

Has anyone tried one with the CR123A primary cells?

I like the options and enthusiast-oriented design of the Emisar and Noctagon lights on his website, but a lot of them seem to only operate with UNprotected cells, which is what I think the majority of my lights have been using up till now (protected, that is).

Other than stupid things like never fully depleting or leaving the unprotected cells in the charger, what are the non-obvious limitations or extra care one must observe with unprotected cells? (eg: maybe some emitter/driver combos don't work with them?)

Bonus: Please feel free to suggest the best/safest manufacturers of unprotected cells that Hanks lights can use (14500/18650/21700 etc).

Thanks, I'm looking forward to the addiction.

I had a Trust fire mIni 2S, and it was great, it was attached to my keys and I liked it a lot, but one bad turn in my motorcycle and it got dirty with mud and god knows what else on the side of the road, I cleaned it with isopropyl alcohol and busted the battery, It was rated iP68 but I guess the seal was damaged,

Now I'm looking for a similar one. Cheaper and with removable battery, Something with small form factor that can easily be carried with my keys Any suggestions? It was 2.99 US

My Imalent MS03 switch has died, seems a common theme after researching on here, contacted after sales about a repair - no reply, so I’ve given up! What would be a good like for like replacement? I’m UK based TIA

Is there any way currently to source the sft40 4000k I want to use it in a tint mix. From what I can tell it was only sold once on kaidomain based off previous posts.

And for the d4k, what is the angle of the default optic? It's far too floody to be useful, lights like the if25a/ffl x4 series lights etc are more throwy. Are there any after market ways of getting more throw?

I picked up this M21h from Convoy because I wanted a light with a GT FC40. I have to say, I'm pretty underwhelmed. The host is very nice, although the switch isn't the best. Also, the charging port is opposite the switch and roughly the same size and material; it is easily confused.

The UI is my biggest gripe. I doubt I'll use this light much if at all. The ramping is bad. It's slow and inconsistent. Also, it tops at 100%. Over 100% actually. The light dims with a double click at full ramp.

The stepped mode also tops at 100% (4 steps). The steps aren't spaced well IMO.

It's too bad. This light seems very well made. It looks great, and it has a great beam.

One more negative: the USB charging is wonky. It won't work with my expensive Google or Anker USB c bricks, only with dated USB c and USB A chargers.

I see the new FFL E04 Surge is using the Lume1 driver, but the FFL X4 Stellar is using the Lume X1 instead. So what are the differences between both?

It's that time of year again. I am curious about which products or developments, whether flashlights themselves, or things like new emitters, you all have found most interesting this year.

Last year, people recommended me the Acebeam Terminator M1 and I am very grateful for this recommendation.

Health warnings acknowledged! 😉

I was looking on the Convoy website and saw a C8 UVC derivative that uses this Ali Express emitter 3256807657791048 which apparently needs to be used with two 18650's to run.

Germicidal and Mineral UVC emitters seem to be very inefficient and produce a lot of waste heat so, I was wondering with all the post-Covid19 effects if a better flashlight capable UVC emitter has emerged.

Hi! I've got a TS10 v2 (6000 K) at Black Friday sale and it's my 2nd EDC flashlight now. My first EDC is Olight i3t 2 and its low setting, rated at 5 lm, is very useful to me. So, I wonder what floor level should I set up on TS10 to get similar brightness with a single 1H press?

I have been using a Wurkkos FC13 as a general flashlight and I love it. However, I want specifically a thrower, around the same size as it, with usb c. Even better if it's on sale with black friday.

I need help identifying LED PCB. I have no idea about the parameters or dimensions. Saw one of these being used in remote control car. I have only one picture to show.

https://preview.redd.it/enim5hkyag4e1.png?width=477&format=png&auto=webp&s=86d6fd788f31fbb6e59b65670c27774faf060660

Clicking 3 times just changes which led I am using, not changing it back to ramping mode.

The leds are, Ch 1 SST20 5000K, Ch 2 SST-20 Deep Red 660nm, and Ch 3 UV 365nm if that helps at all

Hi, I just bought the sc13 and I love it, I only have one complaint about it, and that is the fact that it's only rated for 17 hours on the 10 lumen mode (which is 2nd highest, above moonlight). This is especially strange because when compared to lumintop, both sofirn sc13 and lumintop 3.0 aa are rated for 150 lumens at medium mode, and both last about as long as each other (3.5 to 4 hours), BUT, sc13's 10 lumen mode is only rated for 17 hours, whereas lumintop 3.00 aa's 20 lumen mode (obviously more lumens) is rated for 37, over twice as long with twice the lumens....

Tl;dr: sc13 and lumintop last the same at medium mode (150 lumens), but lumintop lasts way longer at lower mode even with higher lumens.

What could be the issue? Inaccurate 'official' runtimes? They can't be trusted or is there anything else going on? Thanks.