YES! I have just watered my three potted fig trees, which I winterized by positioning them adjacent to the foundation of the house and wrapping them with a concrete curing blanket. The soil is not frozen and the fig trees appear to be in good condition. I administered water to them and covered them as well. This is excellent news!!!

Additionally, please note that I retained approximately 3-4 feet worth of branches and wrapped them with water pipe insulation. Who's thinking?

Watering potted figs in February https://youtube.com/shorts/8_I86YCvGng?feature=share

Does anyone know an online store that has Smith rooted trees available? I’ve been looking and haven’t had much luck. As a side note I have had bad luck with cuttings which is why I prefer finding a rooted tree.

It's Michigan. In Feb.

This is a cutting from my Ponza-Geno that I've raised from water rooted cuttings from the mother plant. Mother was brought here from the island of Ponza over 50 years ago. Still produces 2 fruitings every year with hundreds of figs each time.

Yes, I'm going to pinch that fig off, but thought it was funny enough to post first.

I like The Millennial Gardener, Phil’s Figs, and Lazy Dog Farm.

I planted this little miss figgy last year and am confused about how to prune. The two tall ones in the back really shot up over the summer. Thanks!

I am completely new to this. I covered it outside for winter. Am I cooked? Or will it come back spring time

Is there a type of fig that won’t die back in zone 7? I just would like to be able to turn one into a smaller tree. Thanks in advance for your knowledge on figs plants.

My sister went away for two months and asked me to watch her fig plant. I've had it for a month. It's been kept indoors, in a warm room (about 70 degrees Farhenheit) with a window, and I've watered it once a week.

Today, I went to water it, and it had dropped seven leaves since last week. I'm freaking out, I think I may have killed it. The leaves that are still on it look healthy, but I don't know why it would suddenly drop that many leaves when it hasn't been dropping more than maybe one a week.

Do they do this at this time of year? Is there something I should do to check on it? It doesn't seem to have any pests or anything like that. The other plants I have in the room with it are fine, they aren't losing leaves--I have an aloe vera, a spider plant, and a parlor palm in good condition.

Last figs ripened on the Olympian, 2 tasted like honey, the last on the left like a bell pepper.

Newbie to fig rooting here. I’m trying to root cuttings according to the notorious fig YouTube guide where it’s in a 4x9” pot with a plastic bag wrapped around to contain moisture. It’s been about 3 weeks on the heat mat and I see some new buds coming out but the top soil feels dry.

How do I know when and how much water to add in if they’re still wrapped in the plastic bag?

Hi all, I'm a fig beginner. I'm looking for some advice as to what fig to plant here in zone 7a. Here's what I'm looking for:

• A not too sweet fig (berry?). I'm not a fan of sweeter and separately darker varieties (like Mission figs).

• A prolific and early-producing variety. I want to eat as many figs as possible for as long as possible. I want a ton of figs.

• Something well-suited to our climate here which can have feature lots of rain and humidity at times and occasional cold snaps in the winter (below 25 degrees).

Thanks in advance for your suggestions!

Second attempt at fig cuttings.

First was via some Etsy I258 cuttings that were a major fail (on my part).

Second attempt is with some random fig tree in town that I asked to take some cuttings from. Ended up with eight and started about three weeks ago. These are mixed with a bunch of perlite and coco coir and a bit of potting mix. All in a big plastic bin and on a heat mat.

I know the green growth doesn’t necessarily mean roots, but I’m pumped to have gotten this far.

So this cutting was cleaned with the 9 parts water one part bleach solution back in early December. I pulled it out of storage a few days ago. No indication of mold growth during storage. I wrapped it up, and I'm still getting mold on the tops. Am I missing a step? Do I need to clean again after pulling from storage?

Hi All, I am new to propagating fig cuttings, but not new to gardening. Growing hot peppers is my hobby.

Anyhow, I am attempting to propagate about 6 different varieties from cuttings. I have them in 4x9 tree pots, with indoor potting soil 40% and perlite 60%, the tops are wrapped in parafilm. They have been in a dark area of my house with the heat mat set to 78F for about two weeks. I have several full spectrum grow lights I can use quite easily.

When should I start giving the cuttings light? I do not want to pull the cuttings out of the pots in fear of disturbing any potentially developed roots. I have searched online and see mixed opinions on both. Some say it will push leaf growth but not have roots to support, or some say the roots will die because there are no leaves to photosynthesize. It would be nice to hear some opinions of the experienced fig cutting propagators out there.

Thanks in advance!

What are the best sources for reasonably-priced fig cuttings? The few I'd like to get are listed below, and would like to get them from reliably healthy sources without losing an arm&leg:

• Strawberry Verte
• Desert King
• Cold de Dam
• Black Madeira

Getting ready to prune this year and I’m worried the branch just above the red line is too large. Any opinions on whether I should chop the whole thing off? Thanks

I got a bunch of fig pops that have root systems similar to this but zero leafing. Do yall think they are ready to be potted?

I recently up potted two figs . Wm#1 and sunfire .

Both were looking good pre up potting . Hoping it’s just transplant shock and they’ll bounce back

I also started putting my cuttings in some indirect sunlight, maybe these two got to much sun exposure

Whatever the case . I hope they bounce back

I have them outside still but completely protected from the sun

I bottom water my cuttings ,so the top of the soil may look dry but the bottom half is moist