My fence was installed 3 years ago and the posts are already failing.

The contractor who has a great reputation (and did our other fences which are fine) suggests we must have been overwatering. He went down 3 feet, the holes are 14" in diameter and we used a 5500 psi concrete mix.

We haven’t been watering the area and so my suggestion is it is just a bad batch of timber posts.

My question is - would the contractor be expected to replace my posts? For free? At cost?

A picture is worth 1000 words.. sure am glad the new neighbors put up that fence..lol..i mean they have to know that the tree is going to get bigger, right??

I just bought a house and I can't wait to create a space for our dog to roam freely! :)

I'm envisioning a picturesque wooden fence with brick columns – it's like something out of a fairy tale!

However, I don't understand how to attach the horizontal wooden beams (as shown in the picture) to the brick columns. If anyone has come across a helpful video or online instructions on how to tackle this, or can give me a detail desciption, I'd greatly appreciate it.

Thanks in advance for any advice!

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Welcome to the unfortunate events that is my fence build. This is my first fence btw as a DDYI building the extra D is no mistake it stands for dumb cause thats me..Anyways..

I am building a 6' cedar picket fence with 8 foot doug fur stringers and 8' 13 gauge galvanized steel posts.

I had the posts driven into the ground and the person I hired to drive them hit come concert on a few of them. He got them about 25" in the ground and 2 of them are for a gate..

So I dug them up and poured concert into the hole however I dug massively huge holes. I did not set the posts in concert so there is no concert in the hallow center if that matters..

Anyways one of the posts that I was going to use as the striker side of my gate gobbled up about 180 pounds of concert.. I was shocked at how little it filled the hole. And the concert is about a foot deep and a foot from ground level. Should I mix up 3 more bags and try to fill the hole or is that ok? Keeping in mind the post is about 25" in the ground and has about 12-14" on concert currently in the hole.

The second post I didnt fill all the way with concert is a few posts down from the gate and is about 11" from grade with about 14" of concert in it.

I realize this isnt ideal to not be deep enough but going deeper isnt an option. Nor is it ideal to not be close to grade or have 2 pours of concert in one hole that wont join due to pouring at different times..

Should I switch the striker and hinge gate side as I hear the striker side takes the most abuse?

Thanks for your advice I live in a high wind area, Lubbock tx and the ground is solid clay about 8" down.

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This is the striker side that has about 180 pounds of concert.. I did slope the concert away from the post for drainage. About 12" below grade

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This is the smaller hole with about 120 pounds of concert in it.. about 11" below grade

The other posts I dig up if any I will make a MUCH MUCh smaller hole.. Its crazy how hungry these holes are... Son of a biscuit!!!

thanks for the help :-)

We are getting a 6ft cedar picket fence installed. Most post depth will be 30-36 inches. We are putting the fence over a storm drain pipe. This means a small part of our fence will have 20 inch depth posts. Will this be an issue? In maryland if it matters

I have a few gates where people have smashed the door closed with the drop fork already down and the fork tines are now smashed together and it doesn’t fit around the post anymore.

Is there any easy way or a tool to spread the tines back to their original shape? They are really sturdy and I can’t bend them by hand.

Something like a vise, except it spreads apart instead of clamping together??

Hello fellow fencebuilders,

Can you point out anything wrong with this gate? I've never seem the A shaped design before and that bracing doesn't look pressure treated to me.

Had a reputable contractor come out and replace the rotted backyard fence of our townhome.

The gate posts are 6x6. Gate bracing is 2x4s and the tickets arr 1x4. All sizes nominal.

Thank you all for your time

I went to a fencing store to buy my lumber for 195 feet of fence. I am using doug fur stringers and 4" cedar pickets.

The pickets they gave me had a lot of rot in them. Some were rotted in half. I have had about 40 pickets that I cant use out of 630 pickets. The store said 5% rejection is normal so I over bought that amount but still had to buy more. And I have used several pickets I wish I didnt have to, due to splits and rot and knots.

Is this common to just let the customer eat over $80 in bad lumber?

the 2x4 I got were mostly really good. But I have found about 4 that I cant use due to splits, not a check but massive splits.. Those were $5.

Am I in my right mind to ask for a refund on some of this lumber? Or at least ask to pay cost for it? I mean to pass on bad lumber to a customer is wild to me. Yet alone to make a profit by selling bad lumber..

Is this just how "natural products" are?

I mean it saved me a ton of time vs looking at lowes or home creepo where their lumber is horrible and they dont even sell doug fur or cedar.

I am just spending an awful lot of time and trying to save myself money installing it myself.. Seems like a slap in the face to have soo much money in worthless lumber..

Thank you for reading this and giving your option. I am new to this so it comes to me as a great surprise how this company is dealing with it. No other product on earth do you pay for stuff you clearly cant use and isnt good and cant return..

Can anyone recommend me a product or method for quickly replacing these old nasty privacy slats on my steel fence?

Something I can do myself or hire out?

Thanks!

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I was thinking about trying to buy an empty lot, and wondering about some very budget-friendly ways to improve the land.

I actually used to work in fencing as a helper and I remember when tearing out old privacy fences like picture frame, nail on, or board on board are usually only bad because of a few rotton posts, or because the tips of the lumber wore out.

Shouldn't I be able to pick up some tear out panels and cut the ends off to make just a 3' fence? I should be able to get 5' good feet from most of the posts. isnt most of the wood in fairly good condition even if its weathered?

What’s going on everybody I’ve been highly interested in the fencing business as a excellent part time opportunity. I’ve been doing research watching videos but no real experience in the field. I’ve done plenty of little projects around the house but nothing on this level.my coworker gave me the green light to destroy her back yard and she’s paying but I truly want to be putting up Quality projects any advice ?

A year ago we paid about 12 000$ (canadian) for the installation of a 6' high chain link fence with privacy slats.

The last section which is about 3' long and right next to our house and the door was installed with 2 posts with base plates/flanges bolted down on two individual pavers (no structural intergrity whatsoever).

Now the day they were about to install that portion the foreman gave us two options:

1. Remove pavers, dig 4' deep and fill with concrete and put the posts inside the concrete. Basically what they did to the entire rest of the project.
2. Drill and install ''flanged'' posts directly on the pavers using anchors/tapcons

The foreman told us explicitly that the two options were solid and adequate.

Based on the info we got, we chose option 2. We trusted the advise of the fence ''expert''.

A year later that portion fell because of the strong winds that we've been having.

We're stuck in a situation where they want to charge us 300$ to do it the right way and are playing the blame game.

I am ready to send a formal notice as I know I'm right. I don't want to go into too many details but I have refuted all of their arguments. I know if this goes further I would win my case.

I want to know the opinion of neutral people on reddit to see what they think of this installation (see picture attached).

I have plenty of info to add if you have any questions about their arguments VS mine and the conversations that we had. I know fighting over 300$ and possibly going to court over such a small amount probably is a waste of time but I'm tired of hiring contractors and having problems/being disappointed and quite frankly I'm done taking bullshit from them.

What do you guys think?

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Recently just moved into my first home its a lovely condo that has a two tier deck. With weather getting nicer and wanting to enjoy the deck without being completely exposed to the neighbor, who is nice but has 3 kids and just want the pleasure of some privacy. Was looking to extend the fence up with some uprights screwed into each post with up rights between them as well for extra support. Then lining planks going horizontally. Roughly want it to extend to the height of the bottom if the window. If anyone has some recommendations for me who knows what they are doing would be a huge help. Ill take any suggestions. Just point me in the right direction!

What’s the best way to attach a 2x4 to span between these pillars? Cinder block concrete filled stucco surface.

Hey guys, I did a fence and when mixing the ciment and the dust, some of it fell in the driveway. I used a pressure washer and a brush and nothing seems to be working to clean the concrete off the asphalt. Wondering if anyone has a trick. Thanks !

We live in Massachusetts and were quoted $14K for a fence around the side of our house and entire backyard (cost breakdown below) - is this reasonable or overpriced? For additional context, this would be on a very flat, grassy terrain and they would also be removing our old broken fence around the entire backyard.

$6,700 - Remove and replace approx. 165' of 6' high stockade fence with, 6' high Nashua 7 white vinyl privacy fence, including 1- 5' wide single walk gate. replace approx. 37 ' of 5' high stockade fence with 5' high Nashua 7 vinyl fence, including 1- 5' wide gate, and 1- 5'-6'x8' slope section.

$2,540 - Install approx. 127' of 4' high 2x9 all black coated chain link mesh, including 1- 5' wide single walk gate, using 1 3/8" top rail ,and tension wire @ bottom.

Labor cost - $4,370

So I live in the country and my property that I want to fence in or separate from my neighbors is 2 acres. I don’t think a full size vinyl fence or wood fence would look normal because the yard is so large and part of the fence in area is in the front of my yard. Are there any alternatives that still look classy and neat that aren’t an arm and leg?

Wife’s been asking for goats for years and for this mothers day I’m surprise her. This is our forever home and I want something that will be a great investment. I’m going to fence about a 1/4 acre. The ground is rocky. Would you recommend metal or pressure treated wood? For the wood I was going to rent an auger but for the metal I was told to get a “fence post driver”. My buddy said the metal was the way to go but he’s arrogant lol. He also made it seem like setting the metal posts would be very quick. I’ll put up an electric wire with it later if that info helps. If any of you experience people have some solid advice that could save me some headaches I’d love to hear it!!! TIA 🐐

Hey guys, i recently started a handyman business with my one of my friends and recently got how much we would charge for installing a fence. It’s one straight line (35-40ft approximately) very simple design nothing fancy and the customer is providing the wood. I have worked in the business before but never knew the costs. The job is in the Niagara falls area if that makes any difference. What would be a fair price to charge? I keep seeing very random numbers online and i’m lost

We had a vinyl fence installed. Rails were notched but not locked, so they move back and forth horizontally and the spindles get messed up and look bad as shown. The “middle” rail (rail below the spindles) is what shifts the most (top rail doesn’t really).

How can I fix this without adding external screws into the post (wife wouldn’t like the look of that)? Would I need to partially take it apart, removing post caps and top rails, to then add top rail ties and/or set screws or such on those rail pieces to keep them from moving?

Any recommendations for a brace for taking the bow out of the bottom of a pressure treated gate?

top of gate aligns with fence, bottom bows outward toward the street. I need to bring it back in.

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Would a turnbuckle and cable work?

I need to replace one fence panel and post - will a fence company be able to find an identical one? I was checking on the fence itself but don't see any kind of identifiers to tell where its from (I don't know who initially installed it)

Got a quote for 23 feet of vinyl fence with (2) 6 foot swing gates (making a 12 foot gate for a boat) and was quoted $1600 in central FL. Does this seem high?