Right next to the instant rice I found this gem. Let's see what happens; updates to follow.

Going to do basically the same thing as uncle bens tech maybe different placement of fresh air intake.

I like that these are pre cooked just like the uncle bens rice so with the same logic it should work? I also like that the whole package is see thru. Also you get double the weight for the same price as the instant rice.

Generic instant rice: 249g Potato gnocchi: 500g

https://preview.redd.it/6xo947n96age1.jpg?width=3456&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1ff0a58d158f3bba7458ab85a8d9a6638a9f0bdb

https://preview.redd.it/vj16odbd6age1.jpg?width=3456&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1c81a7f8ebd80cba96afacc9533c352f5cd283c6

https://preview.redd.it/qdyias9j6age1.jpg?width=3456&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=45c5f4bf50f7976c47b478c4ea0896ad047ae065

After a failed attempt at growing pan cyan which I suspect was caused by a lack of FAE, I decided that I wanted to try adding a fan to my grow. I was however worried that that would cause my sub to dry out, and I also wanted to avoid having to worry about misting all the time, especially if I had to leave the house for a couple of days. I decided to build an automated fruiting chamber, and I am really excited to try it out on my next batch of pans which is almost ready to be sent to bulk!

I know that all of this is probably way overkill, so let me emphasize that I am mostly doing this to have fun, not because I think it is the only way to get success. Furthermore, I have added lots of options for controlling environment, not because I want to automate everything from the get go, but because I want lots of knobs and dials so I can experiment and observe the outcomes. In the beginning the tub will be running with everything set to constant values without any automated regulation at all.

The chamber is made of a 75L waterproof tote. For FAE I use a 5v fan with adjustable speed via PWM (Noctua NF-A8). Inspired by the now defunct Mella fruiting chamber, I wanted to try an evaporative humidifier since it seems to have a lot of advantages over an ultrasonic humidifier: (1) it is self-regulating and doesn't put out more humidity in the form of aerosolized water when the RH approaches 100%, (2) it doesn't spread all the minerals and microorganisms that are dissolved in the water around the chamber. The humidifier is made of another 5v fan which sits on top of three cellulose sponges which are submerged in a shallow dish of distilled water. The water level is kept constant using a supply bottle with a couple of holes drilled at the level I want to maintain. I wasn't sure if it would be able to keep the humidity up on its own, so I have also added an aquarium heater to speed up the evaporation if needed and a small ultrasonic wick humidifier as a backup. There is also a heating pad for heating the substrate and four 12v 6500K LEDs in the lid.

After a short test run I was surprised to see that my evaporative humidifier seemed to instantly cause condensation to form on the sides of the tote and the sensor to rise to over 90% RH in just a few minutes, and maintaining it even with the FAE fan on half speed. I am excited to test how well it works in practice, but I suspect I won't need neither the ultrasonic humidifier nor the aquarium heater to be turned on to maintain RH levels even with continuous FAE.

On the side of the tote I have inserted an SCD41 sensor for measuring humidity, temperature and CO2 levels. The sensor is inserted into a rubber grommet in which I have cut a hole. I did this to protect the PCB from moisture, and because the sensor is very sensitive and would (according to the datasheet) be damaged if using standard coatings like silicone or acrylic paint. I do not expect the sensor to last forever since it also sits in a small enclosed space with lots of off-gassing plastics. I also don't care if it is well-calibrated since I just want to know if the CO2 level relative to my baseline gets high since it is an indication that I need to increase FAE.

Everything is controlled by a Raspberry Pi Zero 2 W which allows me control the fans and two MOSFETs toggling the LEDs and ultrasonic humidifier, respectively. As I haven't built any automated regulation I just control these from the terminal over SSH (the Zero 2 W conveniently has Wi-Fi).

This was a really fun project to build, and at the very least I picked up some useful soldering and crimping skills along the way, so I already consider it a success. I also hope that it will actually help me grow some nice canopies :).

Aloha Brothers and Sisters! :) I'm relatively new to mycology and I'm trying to medically dose safely, Knowledgeably and effectively. What would be the closest thing to the "Leafly" app / website, but for mushrooms? Thank you all and God Bless ⚕️🤍⚕️

Hello there folks! I’m hoping to crowd source some advice, tips or tricks on dialing-in or a tent into a fruiting chamber or even decontaminating a tent.

I have the air intake and exhaust and the controllers. I have the fogger and controller. I’m considering getting a small space heater and just keeping it near the air intake.

I’m curious about temperature control. What’s a good temperature to aim for regarding actives?

Also, what’s a good humidity level to aim for?

Is there a chart or list of genetics preferred temperatures and humidity levels? Have the temperature and humidity needs of different genetics been mapped out? Is the a chart or graph somewhere?

I’m finally assembling my baby. I’m looking forward to finallyyy connecting all the equipment. This is the first time I have to dial-in a tent. I’m a little nervous. 😬

First time growing pans in a jar, 5” sub. Almost all edge fruits, but a bit bigger than fruits grown on same spawned sub in 1” food tray.

Side note - it grew great on grain but is struggling to move effectively into either of the sawdust substrates I've tried so far after transfer 🧐

Some backstory: took a plate with G.lucidum culture from 2021.06, made multiple plates with wedges from it. After a few weeks with no life signs re-used plates to make L.edodes spawning plates.

Now about this image: a plate width four wedges of G.lucidum in a square pattern and L.edodes added later. As edodes started spreading, lucidum woke up and they've met in a quite peculiar pattern.

There's not so much to take from this, but I do like how their interaction shaped the myco landscape and that some cultures can stay alive for 3 years and 8 months on Petri dishes.

I ended up with bunch of oat fiber powder and figured I'd give this a try. Oat fiber powder is made from oat hulls, and similar to the idea of using grain water in your agar to familiarize the myc with your substrate and accelerate growth, I'm hypothesizing that this could have a similar effect when it's used to spawn oat grain jars.

My understanding is that the myc should be able to break the fiber down into useful sugars but it will probably be a bit slower. Wood loving genetics may take to it better. If initial tests are promising, I'm thinking I'll try some different nutrient profiles with more readily available sugars, to optimize initial growth on the plate as well as the hopefully accelerated grain colonization.

Has anyone tried something like this before?

I usually have 20-30 bales of 3-Way stock that I use for erosion control. They always get soaked with rain and start sprouting beautiful winter weather and barley or whatever grains are in there. I was just thinking what if I dumped 1-5 gallons of liquid culture on, under and around each of these hay bales? What would be the best strain for that?

Looking for ideas either actives or even gourmet .

Wanted to see what would happen if I put a piece of blue magnolia in a contaminated agar cup that I inoculated a few days ago with Stargazer LC. Just an experiment. Curious to see what will happen. Any ideas? Also the piece of mushroom is from the center of a mushroom I pulled this morning after making a spore print.

I am waiting for agar powder from Amazon. I found this at an Asian Market. Wondering if any out there has seen it before. All they had in powder was Lychee or Mango flavored.

Pineapple Sage coexisting with Pink Oyster. A beautiful sight to see.

<3

Im ramping up to do another 3-4 tubs. Last run I just cased with extra sub. I grabbed some peat while out and was going to do a 50/50 coir and peat with smidge lime. Does any types not do well when cased and is 8 a decent PH for the 50/50 mix. All tips are appreciated. BTW Happy New Year !!

I don’t have any evidence other than anecdotal to back up this theory, but I’m curious what this community thinks. I’ve taken my fair share of mushrooms and every single time except two, they take 60-90 minutes to kick in. The two times I’ve felt their effects faster have been when they were powdered and when they were consumed alongside chocolate.

The time I took powered mushrooms, it was the last morsels of a baggie. The scraps and powder took about 20 minutes to kick in and I had a hell of a time trying to cook dinner.

The other time, I ate dried mushrooms like normal, washing them down with Gatorade. About 20 minutes later, I drank a very concentrated liquid chocolate (think the thickest, richest chocolate milk you’ve ever had). Within 15 minutes of drinking the cocoa, I began to feel the familiar effects of mushrooms beginning to emerge.

I can’t say for sure, so I’m asking you all: have you felt that chocolate speeds up the effects of psilocybin? I’ve only tried them alongside each other once, so it could be correlation instead of causation in that case. Many commercial mushrooms products are made into chocolates, which could be a delicious coincidence, but maybe not. I’ve never taken these pre-made chocolates, so maybe they act faster than traditional dried shrooms. Clearly with methods like Lemon TEK, there are ways to speed up the activation of psilocybin, so I’m wondering if cocoa might do something similar.

Hey folks !! I was wondering if there was any real difference between LC and what I call Myceliated Water or Agar Water, bsically if you shot water into agar and sucked it back up to nocc' up grains. Is there any difference other than LC being more nutritionally fortified. Thanks