Not sure where to start. I've never seen any climbers selling merch. For so many athletes in other sports it's a good revenue sports (maybe even main soirce of income, like in pro-wrestling 😎).

Do any of the climbers have their T-shirts, pants, water bottles etc? Why not?

And if anyone knows are there legal barriers? Maybe National teams do not allow athletes to sell their likeness or names?

I would buy a Janja's T-shirt (obviously with a 🐐), and a t-shirt with some angry cartoon Stasa Gejo

P.s. I'm not talking about collaboration or endorsement products, like TN Pros, or 5.10 models that are associated with Janja or Shauna. Or National team uniform collaborations that profit The North Face directly

I’m attending a small local competition for the first time, so I want to do well. The format is combined lead and boulder, and you get to choose which you start with. I was wondering which one would be smarter to start with.

I’m leaning toward lead, as the bouldering will likely be hard on skin, anyone have good advice?

Twenty climbers climb in mixed teams of two on 180 meter part of 220 meter tall Verzasca dam in south Switzerland. The final route consist of six pitches (sections) with varying degree of difficulty between 6c and 8b. (James Bond bungee jumped from this dam 😉)

They belay each other, that means one climber climbs while the other one is resting and belaying. The key part is speed, the first team topping wins, but with a twist when they fall. They can either be lowered to the start of the pitch and start again or continue to climb from the point they fell, but they get penalty point. Team with the fastest time and lowest penalty points count wins, so it is also about strategy. There are two identical routes, so it's fight against each other in real time.

There were qualifications on Wednesday with four teams getting into semi-finals on Thursday in which were decided teams for big and small final.

Finals will be streamed on Saturday 2.11.2024 at 14:00 UTC+1 (Time zone converter)

Stream - Red Bull TV 🇺🇸 ESPN+

Starting list with all climbers. The small final made Jenny Buckley and Darius Rapa vs Andrea Kümin and Sascha Lehmann, big final Jessy Pilz and Jakob Schubert vs Jenya Kazbekova and Alberto Ginés Lopéz.

Results including qualifiations

Route

Chat

Lets say you don't want to represent your home country.

UPDATE: Start is at 15:30

Climbing without ropes on 18 meters tall wall above deep water. That's Psicobloc. Two climbers climb the same route, the fastest wins. This Sunday live on Red Bull TV or ESPN+ (if you're in U.S.) with Matt Groom's commentary.

Official website

Starting at 15:30 (UTC +1) (time changes in Europe on Sunday)

Time zone converter

Results

Instagram

6 to 8 boulders (all boulders count for points)

10 to 15 max attempts per boulder

There's never enough time to reach max attempts for all boulders. Most of your time is spent waiting in line.

I know there is probably some advanced game theory to apply here, but I'm not that smart lol. Here are some ideas:

1. Position yourself at the front of the group before the comp starts, so you can be the first to hand the queue manager your card and start right away.

2. Start with the easiest boulder.

3. Try each of the other boulders once to feel them out. Rank them in order of difficulty level.

4. Go back to the second easiest boulder if you didn't already top it, and keep getting back in line until it's topped or you've maxed out your attempts.

5. Do the same for each subsequent boulder in order of difficulty, saving the hardest for last (assuming there will always be at least one boulder you won't be able to top no matter what).

I like the idea of repeating the same boulder as opposed to jumping around, but I could be wrong about that being a favorable strategy.

Any thoughts?

It was just a kid’s qualifying event but it gave me new respect for how hard judging is. You’re trying to pay attention to so many details at once, in real time and from 8 feet away while the climber’s body is blocking your view. I understand why judges get it wrong sometimes, especially in terms of “using” the zone, which can be really subjective.

Anyway, it was fun to do and they’re often looking for judges because judges aren’t paid, so it’s a nice way to give back. If you enjoy watching comps, I recommend giving it a try

Hey folks! I've always been frustrated by having to scrub repeatedly through hours-long live streams to find specific climbers. I often don't have the time to sit through the full live stream. So I've created a simple website that helps me with this and I wanted to share it with anyone who has that frustration too.

The website allows you to select a climber and generates a playlist of videos. Each video brings you right to the point when that climber starts climbing and ends when they complete their climb.

So far I've added videos for all Lead and Boulder finals for IFSC World Cups and OQS this season (minus Shanghai OQS Women's Lead Finals as it wasn't uploaded to YouTube). Looking to add the IFSC Championships next.

I built this in my free time as a fun project for myself and the community. Please check it out and let me know what you think!

Website link: chalkist.com

UPDATE: Sunday program is streamed on YouTube

IFSC will test new 4 lane speed climbing format for the first time in Madrid, before the World Games next year in China. It's going to be exciting events, most of the top speed climbers will attend (registrations, Sam Watson got food poisoning and will not compete).

Qualification - each climber climbs 4 times, once in each lane. 8 fastest climbers will progress directly to final

Play-In (repachages) - another 16 climbers are split into 4 groups, they climb once, two fastest from each group will get to final.

Final - two fastest climbers from each stage of final rounds progress into the next one. All the winners will be decided in the last stage of final round.

Qualifications stream

Live stream (only finales)

Results

Schedule (UTC +2):

Saturday 19.10

Speed 4 Qualification 11:00

Speed 4 Play-In 16:00

Spanish Speed Cup Qualification 16:30

Speed 4 Finals 19:00

Sunday 20.10 (to be confirmed)

Speed Qualifications 13:00 (the finals were right after that)

Women’s and Men’s Exhibition Team Relay 15:30

Recently saw this posted on some climbers’ instagram stories and was wondering if anyone knew if and when/where we could watch this?

Outside of just climbing.

Should I be incorporating more tension board climbing? Hangboarding? Antagonistic, or any form of push, training? It's no surprise that although my biceps, forearms, and posterior chain have seen great development in the past few months, my push muscles have suffered. I've done close to zero strength training, and my pushing strength levels (as well as muscle definition) have taken a hit.

Would appreciate any insight into how climbers more advanced than me train (for climbing generally, but competition climbing more specifically)!

Stats, for reference:

I'd consider myself to be a v5 boulderer -- I recently got my first v6 and v7 (only 1 each!) and can typically send 1, sometimes 2, v5(s) over the course of a single session.

I have about 6 months of climbing experience (3 months last year, 3 months this year with a 12 month gap in between due to a meniscus tear I suffered from a fall while climbing). I climb 3x a week for 2-3 hours. I generally take about 20-30 minutes to warm up and hop into the sauna afterwards for recovery.

There is Deutsche Meisterschaft Lead 2024 if there isn't enough climbing for you today :) The qualis were broadcasted too. I haven't check it too much, but I saw Yannick Flohé and and Nagel are competing.

Live streams and replays

Today at 13:55 semifinal, finals at 19:55 (UTC+02:00)

I was watching Toby's prague debrief and I noticed that during quali athletes will do the same boulder side by side. So how does this work in terms of athletes getting beta off each another climber? Couldn't this potentially give an unfair advantage to a climber depending on who they were climbing alongside?

https://usaclimbing.org/yeti-national-championships/

Livestreams for semis/finals like past years will be on https://www.outsideonline.com.

Sat: Speed. (Quakes/Finajs) Women’s Lead Qual. Sun: Men’s Lead Quals Mon: Lead Semis/Finals Tue: Bolder Quals Wed: Boulder Semis/Finals

The very tippy top US competitors will not be attending (Colin, Jessie, Brooke, Natalia,Annie and Sam Watson).

But do expect to see other top US competitors who are trying to gain points for the right to attend next year’s world cups and win the national title.

Bonus: Chris Sharma is competing in the men’s Lead.

Hey everyone, I posted a few days ago a little bar chart race I made showing athlete Elo rankings over time. I'm grateful for the feedback you all gave me, and I've updated and improved the visualization. I recommend reading the readme before looking at the visualization to get some context, but the TLDR is this:

Elo-MMR is a skill estimation technique that gives a universal ranking for players of a game whose contests can have lots of participants. When a competition happens, the contestants Elo gets updated based on their rankings and the Elo of other athletes in a competition. You can filter by discipline (only lead and boulder right now) and gender (female, male). The Elo-MMR calculation is done independently over the four combinations of filters.

I added a filter to remove athletes who have not competed for at least two years before the date that is currently displayed, because it was confusing to see athletes like Sachi Amma still among the top male lead athletes in recent years. The first version I posted also had boulder and lead switched around (facepalm) so I fixed that. Let me know if you guys have any other suggestions. Also mods let me know if this counts as spam, I can update the older post if you need me to.

The sport climbing (boulder, lead) competition will be held this weekend in Saga, Japan. Earlier this year, each prefecture selected a team of two athletes per category to participate in regional ("block") selections, and the highest ranked teams of each "block" were selected to participate in the main competition according to the quota given to each region.

Saga, as the hosts, were automatically qualified for each category:

• Masahiro Higuchi, Taito Nakagami (Men)
• Serika Okawachi, Yuka Higuchi (Women)
• Ritsu Kayotani, Yuta Kayotani (Youth Men)
• Ayaka Kaji, Miyu Kuga (Youth Women)

Schedule (UTC+9) and where to watch:

Note about the livestreams: No split screen, but there are two video feeds showing different parts of the wall, for all rounds except lead finals. VODs will be available several hours after the livestream ends.

Programme book: https://www.city.taku.lg.jp/uploaded/attachment/18591.pdf

Startlist, live scoring: JMSCA results service

Official results, route diagrams: Official notice board

The Asian Championships start tomorrow. The whole Japanese and Chinese team are there, surprisingly no Koreans.

Schedule (UTC +8)

Local time zone conversion (hope this works)

Replays with subtitles

This link seem to work for every stream (thanks u/jumpjumpswingswinging)

Replays and live streams also on pdnews.cn (thanks u/aeggli)

Live results

I just noticed he seems to say this whenever she’s in a comp (just heard it at around 3:04:30 in Seoul boulder finals replay now when she looked at her palm for a flapper). Haven’t seen it on any of the Matt Groom bingos so far but I might have missed it!

Janja still does not have the highest number of gold medals or total podiums in either boulder or lead.

Lead: Jain Kim 30 gold, 56 podiums (Janja 29 gold, 44 podiums)

Boulder: Anna Stohr 22 gold, 45 podiums. Akiyo Noguchi 21 gold, 58 podiums (Janja 17 gold, 22 podiums)

Important to remember who the other contenders for GOAT are. Janja still has a few big records to break.

EDIT: I agree Janja is the greatest our sport has seen, but people often say that without the context of others who have held that title.

Almost every single comp I watch has more women tops of both boulders and lead climbs. What is with that? Is it some kind of bias from the setters? And even in the Seoul comp the women timed out rather than being unable to do the moves. Surely they can’t consistently underestimate the women’s and/or overestimate the men’s abilities every single competition? Or can they?