Looking to get into 22 target shooting and while initially leaning toward the varmint LH I have been gushing over the 457 Lux. I have a major hard-on for bolt actions with good iron sights. I was ready to order but noticed the stock is carved with a cheek pad for a righty.

Anyone have experience shooting this lefty? My chief concerns are achieving proper cheek weld and comfort.

Not something I see a lot in this reddit, I'll let you know how it is after I take it to the range!

Hello everyone,

I purchased a CZ 457 Varmint Synthetic for a good price on eGun. It came with a 25 MOA Picatinny rail. I also managed to get a Burris SIX Xe 3-18x56 FFP SCR 2 on sale. Unfortunately, I haven’t received anything yet besides the scope, so I can’t measure it. I still need rings or a mounting block to attach the scope. Now I’m unsure how high the mount needs to be.

Any tips or recommendations?

I’m considering getting a 17hmr barrel to use for night hunting (thermal). Has anyone tried the lothar-walther 17hmr or lija 17hmr barrel? I’m not seeing many options for 17hmr threaded barrels.

Hey I've got an old 455 I haven't done much but put a heavy barrel on. Does anyone know if there are any drum mags, anything more than 10 rounders, that will fit?

Follow up: anyone suggest a good stock?

Acquired July 23 she started as a stock Pro Varmint and the rabbit hole began.

2nd Gen dawned an Arken scope.

Between 2nd and 3rd Gen she was sit into an KRG Bravo and also had a Petes Pillars MTR Barrell which shoot great and for the price point you couldnt beat it.

Gen 3 was a result of that Rabbit hole going deeper with the addition of an Athlon Midas Tac 5x25x56 as well as the 21 inch Lilja 900 straight barrell...which shoots awesome. I also installed a JARD trigger (3 to 6 oz) and she runs at about 3-1/2 oz.

Gen 4 and to finish her up I added a Harrells tuner, Protektor rear bag 13B (I think) and invested into a better benchrest bipod, the Sinclair F-Class.

I originally wanted to dabble in PRS (I still can) but I found Benchrest to suit me much better. I have been shooting regular local matches as well as a more challenging (much better shooters than I) bi-Monday night benchrest league.

Love me some rimfire :)

Bone Stock

2nd Gen

3rd Gen Athlon Scope-Lilja BBL0KRG Bravo

4th Gen Sinclair front rest-Protektor rear bag-Harrells tuner

I am bored today so I figure might as well post something we all can relax and eat popcorn to...

Are you a pusher or a puller? Why?

Its true, all of us have been there, done that, and finally decided to join one side or the other. Me personally, I am a puller. Always have been. I tried the pusher mentality but I felt I would end up doing more harm than good even with the bore guide.

Some will say that if you are a puller, you may damage the crown...sure if you are in a hurry and not careful or have the right tools for the job. Once I stepped into the CZ Rimfire world I learned quickly that I had to buy the right tools for the job since CZ rimfire barrels are typically a little tighter than the standard barrels.

So without making this another cleaning thread, since all of us have our own way, are you a Pusher or are you a Puller?

I need some advice or knowledge...

I recently purchased a barrel for my CZ457. I do not want to toss the manufacturer under the bus "so to speak" so I am not mentioning names.

Overall at first the barrel was out of the box nice but as time has moved on I am noticing things I am not really happy about so bear with me...

Keep in mind the price point is sub 300 bucks and comes with a match chamber.

The barrel seems to shoot fine and seems to be as good or better than the stock Pro Varmint barrel on paper.

So here is where I have issues and I want some honesty as to if my expectations are too high.

Originally the barrel internally was showing multiple machine marks and scratches, several areas of the internal barrel was showing white spots. (It has not been lapped FYI). I moved forward, seasoned the barrel and continued shooting. Now I am seeing an area in the barrel that looks as if metal is missing from an area in one of the groves. I recently had a similar issue with my Ruger RPR for a spot that is 1/4th the size and Ruger replaced the barrel (as reference). I am now also seeing areas in the bluing that looked like smudges but after multiple attempts to rub them out with a soft cloth or my finger it now looks as if this was a bad bluing job. I am 100% positive that I did not spill anything on the barrel to create this issue since these bluing areas are spread out all over the barrel. I use at best Lucas bore cleaner Lucas oil and clean the chamber with C4 to remove carbon rings. Not once have I ever splashed it on any part of the weapon especially the barrel.

I have contacted the barrel manufacturer yet they seem to bypass my concerns with other questions, so basically no concerns. So again this is where my knowledge/expectations lack.

So please educate me on what a sub 300 barrel and my expectations should be.

I personally feel the bluing should have been better and I "kind of" understand the internal condition but the missing metal in the groove I feel isnt great.

I know you get what you pay for and this was one of those things to where I wanted to help with advertising these barrels but at this point outside of it shooting decent I can't bring myself to saying anything more positive.

If this is an expectation of a sub 300 dollar barrel then so be it and I will move on. But if there should be a little more quality built in then please let me know.

Thanks and please dont beat me up to badly, my next barrel will be a much higher quality. I just wanted to help a brother out ya know

​

She started out as a CZ457 Pro Varmint with the Boyd's stock

Since she has acquired a KRG Bravo chassis (with rimfire adjustable LOP), Arken SH4 G2 6x24x50, Area 419 30 MOA rail, Jard trigger with the 3 to 6 ounce spring (averages 4 ounces) UTG Recon 360 Bipod, 240mm Arca rail and recently (not pictured) I decided to try out Pete's Pillars MTR barrel (Blued).

Jury is still out on the Pillars barrel however it seems to fair well compared to the stock Pro Varmint barrel. I did score a 596 (out of 600) 30X in yesterdays recreational rimfire match. Externally the barrel is pristine and the fit n finish is awesome, however internally the barrel is run of the mill. For the price its shoots fine and honestly I am not giving it full credit. For someone on a budget that wants a match chamber to replace the stock (non-match) barrels I would say go for it. I feel that is what Pete is aiming for on these 457 barrels. I want to pop at least 500 more rounds through it before making a solid decision. Currently I am at about 300 rounds. I will however say that I have not noticed any cold bore shots like I have seen on my stock Pro Varmint barrel. In yesterdays match my POA and POI was almost spot on :)

​

https://preview.redd.it/kgcucn46aa4c1.png?width=1356&format=png&auto=webp&s=3e9cd1f4601a8843684f3600a4071cafb060a8b9

I would ask if you could please look over the video below and tell me if this is what I should expect from a new barrel.

I will not mention the barrel maker I just need some sound advice please.

The barrels external finish is pristine, but I personally feel it needs some work inside.

There are multiple spots in the rifling that looks like tool marks and other areas what looks like lead.

I personally feel like I cannot give positive feedback in its current condition however I do not know anything about barrels so please educate me.

Please mute video I have the flu and my nose is going crazy

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fXzSZIKwmw8

​

Glad I found this CZ Rimfire area.

Quick question, CZ USA sells a chassis for the CZ457

Does it accept a MIL Spec buffer tube or is it the Commercial spec?

The only thing the website mentions is that it accepts AR style hardware and there are no mentions

of MIL Spec or Commercial.

Thanks

I’m assuming this is from the old trigger and not needed anymore? Not sure where it fell off from

I want to get into rifle shooting. Rather than get that fancy center fire rifle first I want to train with a rimfire for a while. Being left handed I quickly settled on a 457. Should I get the american or varmint? 22LR or 22WMR? This is focused soley on training to eventually move up to long range (1000 yard+) center fire. Thanks.

Hi,

Im a new shooter looking to buy my first .22 lr pistol. I live in Greece, so availability in good .22 lr pistols is a bit complicated as the market will not import everything from everywhere.

Having tactical controls is a must for me as i have a small disability and i arm my gun using my belt buckle. So my gunsmith recommended to me CZ P-07 Kadet.

Overall i really like CZ P-07 Kadet. Specially reliability of the gun. Very good quality CZ product. Unfortunately it is a litlle left behind on features such newer designs as the Taurus TX22 or SIG P322.

Biggest of these is the low mag capacity, lack of aftermarket suppressor height sights (for better gun handling), non threaded barell out of the box.

So dear community do you have links to aftermarket products that will solve the isues i find with it?
Should i buy a CZ P-07 Kadet .22 lr or wait CZ to bring another .22 lr pistol platform on the market?

Also another matter is 9mm support. Can i convert on the fly a CZ P-07 Kadet .22 lr to 9mm with slide + barell kit? I know that vice versa is possible.

Asking for your opinions. Every response is welcomed. You will help me a lot!

looking to upgrade from the diamondback 2-7 on my cz455.

Im mostly a vortex guy, but it seems as though the AO skips the diamondback line. i want nicer glass than the crossfire line, but im not trying to spend money on a viper, nor do i want a 30mm tube.

i can be flexible on some of this, but ideal world:

4-16.

40mm objective

adjustable objective. doesnt have to be a side focus.

1" tube

non exposed turrets.

better glass than crossfire. thinking $150-$300 range.

Thinking about putting one of Boyds Gunstock's Agility stocks on my 457 LUX. Anyone have any experience with this model? I have an At-One that used to be on my Savage 110, and the At-One is pretty similar, but with much sharper edges.

I have a new (under 1000 rds) 457 LH. I am having trouble with the extraction/ejection cycle. The spent case is pulled from the chamber but seems to be Dropped before it is Ejected. Not every round but 1/5 minimum sometimes 3/5. I have run three or four different brands and have similar results. What steps do I take to resolve this? I prefer to understand the issue and fix it rather than just tearing it down and putting new parts in. Or is this a warranty issue?

G