So boom. I plan on buying a home next month. I need to put 40k down. I have 32k already by closing . Would it be a bad idea to take out a personal loan for the additional 8k needed? Im trying ti have a super low rate and cannot borrow from my 401k

I filed dispute with Equifax because UNLIKE the other agencies they had some crazy erroneous shit on my report. My scores are 756 and 761 on TU and Experian. On Equifax I’m a 676. I checked to find out why the asinine difference and it was because they have been reporting my student loan closed and 180 days late. But back in 2019! When I had no student loan payments!! My student loan account is open and in good standing. They had TWO different student loan accounts, one open and in good standing, one closed and delinquent. Which is a lie. So I disputed it yesterday. Asked for the false/incorrect account to be deleted (looks like these idiots just invented this closed delinquent account when FEDLOAN Services transferred my loan to AidVantage this year) but what did they do?

They deleted my OPEN, current account instead!!! Now I’m a 660 FICO on Equifax. Can you believe these people? WTF can I do? This has been going on since last April. My first dispute they ignored. In fact they changed the dates so instead of this bullshit dropping off in 2026 now it’s 2027.

I don’t have any “documentation” because the whole thing is MADE UP!!!

It still shows the dispute I filed yesterday is “under investigation.” Does anyone else have any advice on how to get through the thick skulls at Equifax? Can’t imagine I’m the only person who has ever dealt with this. I’m at the end of my rope and I just know the results from this “investigation” will be meaningless laziness and nothing will be changed.

I put a freeze on my Equifax report so no one sees this fucking embarrassment. I’ll take just about ANY advice right now. Thanks

So I realize you need to save up to $500 to withdraw. Can I add $500 and withdraw it once a month? Will that help raise my credit at all?

Not here to make excuses. Life happened on top of poor money management. Currently 28 married with a baby.

I have a good solid job making good money but it’s not enough to ever make headway on high interest rate credit cards.

Around 12,000 in credit cards And a 10,000 SoFi personal loan

Across all the accounts my minimum payments are around 800 a month.

I’m not sure the best path forward. I am currently renting a house that we don’t plan on leaving until we buy something in the future. 2 solid cars so no need to get a new car anytime soon.

Options that I know of are:

• Keep paying the minimum payments and try to make more money….
• bankruptcy (scary)
• debt consolidation stuff but seems sketch
• or let my cards and loan go unpaid and try to settle them myself over the next year.

Obviously want to do what will hurt my Credit the least while being financially reasonable.

Hi all,

Got directed here by another user over on the r/CreditCards page, and I came to the realization that I have the below credit scores and wanted to know if there was anything I could do to possibly fix/change that.

• FICO Score: Citi 675 (FICO 8) - Capital One 757 (VantageScore 3.0) - Chase 754 (VantageScore 3.0)

• Current cards: (list cards, limits, opening date)

  • Apple Card - $3,500 limit, 10/2020
  • Capital One Savor One - $7,000 limit, 8/2023
  • Citi Double Cash - $4,000 limit (Possible increase in a week), 11/2023
  • Chase Sapphire Preferred - $18,000 limit, 7/2024
  • Discover It - $0 limit (closed), 7/2019 (closed 02/2023)

• Oldest account age: 5 years 3 months

• Balances - Paid off in full every month most of the time, will have a balance of a few dollars sometimes if something is pending by the time the payment posts

• Last Delinquency - October 2022 (I think)

  • Debt Settlement through Discover at 60% of total value ($3,000)

I had a 69k total limit until I noticed it dropped to 68k total limit today. I checked all of my accounts and it doesn’t look like any of them dropped so I’m kind of confused.

I have to pay some money towards first credit services. Upon looking them up I have discovered their reviews are terrible. The ask me to pay with my checking account and talk about how checking account is faster than card and there is no fee associated with checking accounts. I was uncomfortable with this and decided to not move forward. What should I do? Would a better course of action be to pay online? I just dont want my information stolen, I am unfamiliar with paying debts. Please let me know if you have any advice or first time experiences with this company.

I had a crappy roommate steal my identity after I moved out and they got a credit card with oportun in my name. I found out about it a year or so later told them it was fraud paid them and shut it down. It wasn’t even sent to my current address they claim it was used after that and that I never said it was fraud and had a new card resent (to my old address) I gave them my current address when I paid and they sent me a bill one month with a zero balance later upon disputing this inaccurate account they sent me two bills for same month one with a zero balance and another with a balance that says amount owed charged to card and closed leaving balance of $600 how is that ? The other shows zero I also see that the account numbers on the bills they sent prior don’t even match but claim to be same account. I keep disputing but they just change the info. At first, they didn’t even have the month that I paid the credit card off as being paid. They had it as being late once I kept disputing that and show proof of payment they change that to being paid, but shouldn’t that be an automatic reason for them to take it off my account never mind the fact that it’s theft. I have also disputed it prior as a collection and had it removed only to have it placed back on. I have wrote to the credit agencies and CFPB to no avail stating all of this. What am I missing here this seems clearly to me a violation how am I the only one seeing it that way?

got cards like amex business, amex blue cash. capital one savor, discover etc etc

all no annual fee cards

about $160k in available credit

wondering what card would be best if I wanted a premium card? I like cashback cards, use citi doublecash and my amex business card mainly currently for 2% cashback

been waiting for the robinhood 3% cashback credit card

any suggestions?

Does the card have an introductory period 0% APR?

I tried looking up online but it won't show up on the website, so I am worried about making my payments next statement

Will making a minimum payment hit my credit score??

Hi!

I’m in an emergency situation

I have to hire an attorney for 5000 for help removing a bench warrant/reopening a case (the court was sending mail to an old address?

When I get my paycheck, I’ll only have 4500

What are the best websites for loans or borrowing money?

At my old job I got behind on card payments so my credit went from 720 to 570 so unfortunately my credit isn’t the best.

I really want to remove this warrant so I can finally get a car/house and just improve my life.. I’ve been living with my parents for a while and finally managed to get a decent job ._.

Hi Reddit

I had a question regarding how I should handle this. I recently had to put a charge of 3,000k on a credit card for person issues. Normally I would let the balance sit until statement close but I feel like 3k is a high balance for me especially since I think the most I have let report is like 500 dollars. This card in question has a no apr period until 1/2025. So what should I do to keep my credit high

In total I have 37k in available credit I have the 3k to pay this card now Do I pay the card early? Pay it over the apr period to show good payments? Or just pay it all when the next due date shows up

So long story short when I was in college my daughter was born a few months premature. After the whole ordeal I fell behind on many of my cards, all low balances, and my credit score dropped. I’m talking like 400’s.

Fast forward 2 years now and I have a 536 right now. A quick run down of my current credit profile. I have a 2 secured cards, 2 low limit decent cards and 3 predatory credit cards. I just got an auto loan for $32,000 with a terrible apr. I got screwed on it, but because I have a really high income now I can pay it off in a year.

I’m still struggling to bring my credit score much higher. I have the income now, but my history weighs me down for things like getting a house. Most of my bad debt was charged off and I paid all my collections in exchange for deletion. I’m wondering now if I should turn to a credit repair agency. To see if they can assist with removing some of my bad history. Would you recommend it? If so what companies would you recommend? All comments appreciated.

I want people to understand that Affirm, Kleo, whatever pay over time app your using is considered a Consumer Finance Account. CFAs generally look bad on your credit report because it means you are “high risk” which can hold your credit score down 10-15 points over the course of 7 years until the account is dropped off your report.

Long story short (warning, it's a wall of text either way):

I was sued for a PayPal credit account. I truly believe I don't owe the money. I discovered payments coming out of my business account. My accountant dropped the ball and thought they were service charges from PayPal - We use them for a payment processor and run 6 digits a month through them, so an extra couple hundred wasn't caught as quickly as it should have been. When I contacted PayPal about it, they told me they couldn't even talk to me or let me make any payments until I verified my identity, banking info, etc. They basically told me they didn't know who I was. It went to collections, and then to a lawsuit. Amount was about $6000.

I initially responded denying all. I spoke to their attorney and offered a 50% settlement if they would dismiss with prejudice as my time is valuable and we could both feel like we won. They refused to settle for less than 80%. Now it's worth my time to risk losing the additional 20%. I told them I would file a motion to compel arbitration or, again, we can settle. They said "good luck, go ahead and make your motion." So I did.

----
Plaintiff responded to motion with this:

"Plaintiff, by and through counsel, opposes Defendant's motion based on the grounds that under the terms and conditions of the arbitration agreement, the party electing arbitration must start the arbitration process. Plaintiff chose a court of law.

Accordingly, it is Defendant who is choosing arbitration, and it is Defendant who must initiate the arbitration by paying the required fees: "The filing fee must be paid before a matter is considered properly filed." AAA Consumer Arbitration Rules R-2(a)(3).

Defendant has not provided evidence that he has initiated arbitration or paid the required filing fees. Accordingly, the matter should continue on the Court's docket until such time as Defendants actually initiate arbitration and pay the fee pursuant to the AAA rules. Otherwise Defendants have not truly initiated arbitration as provided in the contract. Alternatively, Plaintiff has no objection to the Court staying this matter for 90 days to allow Defendants to initiate the arbitration.

Therefore, because Defendant has failed to initiate arbitration, Defendant's motion should be denied."

----
Well, I thought that was total BS and replied to their response:

"1. Plaintiff elected to disregard the arbitration provision as provided in the contract and pursue court action. Defendant has provided notification in accordance with the contract (previously filed with this court, by Plaintiff) The contract allows “...notice can be given after the beginning of a lawsuit or in papers filed in the lawsuit”. Defendant responds to Plaintiffs request and elects JAMS to administer the arbitration.

2. Plaintiff misrepresents AAA Consumer Arbitration Rules R-2(a)(3). Rule R-2(a)(3) provides that

“If the arbitration is pursuant to a court order, the claimant (Plaintiff in the instant case) must send...

-a copy of the court order

-a copy of the arbitration agreement...

-the proper filing fee.” (emphasis added)

Defendant has elected JAMS and thus JAMS Comprehensive Arbitration Rules & Procedures Rule 5(a)(iv) applies in the instant case. ”The arbitration is deemed commenced when JAMS issues a Commencement Letter based upon the existence of one of the following: (iv) A copy of a court order compelling arbitration at JAMS.”

3. The contract provided to this court by the Plaintiff provides in Section 10 of the arbitration agreement “We will pay arbitration costs required by the administrators rules or that are necessary for this Arbitration section to be enforced”. Section 11. Governing Law. “This Arbitation section is governed by the FAA. Utah law shall apply to the extent state law is relevant under the FAA...”

Relevant Utah governing Statute:

2023 Utah Code Title 78B - Judicial Code Chapter 11 - Utah Uniform Arbitration Act: Renumbered and Amended by Chapter 3, 2008 General Session

Section 107 - Validity of agreement to arbitrate. (1) An agreement contained in a record to submit to arbitration any existing or subsequent controversy arising between the parties to the agreement is valid, enforceable, and irrevocable except upon a ground that exists at law or in equity for the revocation of a contract.

4. Defendant submits that Plaintiff, even as an assignee, is required to pay all required fees pursuant to the Arbitration Agreement. The governing credit card agreement in the instant case is a contract of adhesion and Synchrony Bank/PayPal had superior bargaining power. Contracts of adhesion are generally interpreted in favor of the non-bargaining party (i.e. the consumer).

"Unconscionability is determined by reference to the relative benefit of the bargain to the parties at the time of its making, the nature of the methods employed in negotiating it, and the relative bargaining power of the parties." Manuel v. Honda R D Americas, Inc., 175 F. Supp. 2d 987, (S.D. Ohio 2001)

“It is well recognized that "[t]he assignee [stands] in the shoes of the assignor.” Sunridge Dev. Corp. v. RB & G Eng'g, Inc., 2010 UT 6, 13, 15, 230 P.3d 1000)(citing John E. Murray, Jr., Corbin on Contracts § 51.1 (rev. ed. 2007))..

“Therefore, ‘[t]he assignee is subject to any defenses that would have been good against the [assignor]; the assignee cannot recover more than the assignor could recover; and the assignee never stands in a better position than the assignor.’” Id. (citing SME Industries, Inc. v. Thompson, Ventulett, Stainback and Associates, Inc., 2001 UT 54, 16, 28 P.3d 669).

“It is well settled that an assignee of a contract obtains his rights from the assignor and, thus, "stands in the shoes" of the assignor and acquires the same rights and liabilities as if he had been an original party to the contract. See Union Recovery Ltd. Partnership v. Horton, 252 Va. 418, 423, 477 S.E.2d 521, 523 (1996).

Pursuant to the Federal Arbitration Act ("FAA"), 9 U.S.C. §§ 1, et seq., "[a]written provision in ... a contract evidencing a transaction involving commerce to settle by arbitration a controversy thereafter arising out of such contract or transaction ... shall be valid, irrevocable, and enforceable .... " 9 U.S.C. § 2. Section 2 of the FAA is a "liberal federal policy favoring arbitration." AT&T Mobility LLC v. Concepcion, 563 U.S. 333, 339 (2011}(internal quotations omitted) (quoting Moses H Cone Memorial Hospital v. Mercury Constr. Corp.,460 U.S. 1, 23 (1983)).

The FAA "requires courts 'rigorously' to 'enforce arbitration agreements according to their terms, including terms that specify with whom the parties choose to arbitrate their disputes and the rules under which that arbitration will be conducted."' Epic Sys. Corp. v. Lewis, 138 S. Ct. 1612, 1621(2018) (quoting American Express Co. v. Italian Colors Restaurant, 570 U.S. 228, 233 (2013)).

CONCLUSION

1. The cost of arbitration was considered and known when drafted by the Synchrony Bank/PayPal. PRA now stands in their shoes. The contract is valid and should be enforced without changes.
2. This credit card agreement was an agreement of adhesion and favors the drafter and was drafted with full knowledge of the JAMS/AAA fee structures at the time of drafting. Synchrony Bank/PayPal determined it would be in their overall benefit not to litigate all claims detailed in the Arbitration Agreement.
3. Plaintiff is bound to contract as written and agreed between Defendant and Synchrony Bank/PayPal. .
4. FAA is a "liberal federal policy favoring arbitration." AT&T Mobility LLC v. Concepcion, 563 U.S. 333, 339 (2011) enforcing arbitration agreements.

Therefore, pursuant to the Arbitration Agreement provided by Plaintiff, Defendant pleads Court issue Motion to Compel Arbitration and order Plaintiff to file the Arbitration request along with any required fees with the JAMS Arbitration Administrator."

----

We had a court appearance today, via teleconference, to address the motions and/or schedule a trial. The Plaintiff failed to appear. The judge asked me what I wanted to do, since I was the only party that though it important to appear. I asked it be dismissed with prejudice. He said - essentially - that this wasn't going to trial anyway based on the motions, and even if it did, he felt comfortable dismissing with prejudice at this time based on the evidence presented. So, case dismissed!

My gut feeling is they knew if they showed up to the hearing, they would be ordered to begin arbitration. So they decided to let it go and maybe I wouldn't show up either. Who knows exactly. But they had to know they intentionally misrepresented both the contract and the AAA arbitration rules. I would have loved to have heard the Judge's thoughts on that.

They first sued me back in February, so this whole process took just over 8 months. I did all my own research and my own filings, so I was only out time. Feels good, man!

I’m just starting and want to make sure I don’t mess up.

new collections account for 3 year old debt? do i pay for delete, settle, dispute, nothing?

hello adults who are likely more financially responsible than me -

i had a large unexpected dental expense in 2021 and set up a payment plan with the dentists office, stopped paying it, remaining owed is $515. i believe the first missed payment is from january 2021.

any idea why it’s barely been send to collections and reported to a credit bureau now?

and when does the 7 year fall off come into play? does today start that 7 year clock or is it the first delinquent payment date, so january 2021?

what should i do for minimum credit score impact? i can pay in full if that means my score takes the lowest hit.

i’ve heard i can potentially ask for the original creditor to recall the debt so it’s no longer on my credit report.

or that i can settle & request a pay for delete, but it’s not always guaranteed, and legally a little dicey.

i’ve spent a lot of time, work and getting finances in order, and finally am up to a 650 score with experian, and i’m sure this is going to tank it. 😞

I Have a question: A few months back, I placed a credit alert with Experian and of course, it was picked up by the other credit bureaus. However, I think it's causing me some harm. I do know when you have that alert it forces companies that you may be applying for for credit to have to contact you or more information or something to that effect. It seems they can't easily retrieve it from the credit bureaus with this alert in place. I went to apply for a Amazon Visa card and it was going to be a soft pull as they stated. I got an alert back immediately that they can't retrieve my information. A few weeks ago, I also tried for a Discover secured card to help build my credit and I was rejected for that. That was also supposed to be a soft pull. I have a feeling this alert is causing some problems for me. The reason why I put this alert on is because a while back I got an alert from Credit wise that my Social Security number was found on the dark web. It had a name attached to it that of course was not mine. From what I understand, this happens to many, many people. I'm just wondering if I should take this alert off?

My wife and I are preparing to apply for a mortgage and want to raise her credit score quickly to qualify for better rates. Her current score is around 670 across the three bureaus, with less than 1% credit card utilization. However, she has a charge-off from a SoFi loan from 4 years ago, as well as four late payments on a closed Amex account, also from 4 years ago.

We’re now in a stable financial position, with enough savings for a down payment and emergency funds, and are aiming to close on a home by December. We’re already working with an attorney to settle the SoFi loan charge-off, but we’re unsure whether it’s better to settle this immediately or wait a bit longer. I’ve read posts where settling charge-offs has caused credit scores to drop, which has made us nervous about timing.

There are also discrepancies in the reporting of the closed Amex account’s late payments across the bureaus. However, we're hesitant to file a dispute since correcting these issues could potentially lower her score.

Any advice on the best timing for settling the charge-off or whether we should dispute the late payments on the closed account would be greatly appreciated!

I moved out of my old apartment in Jan 2024 and paid the final electricity bill for that month through ComEd. I received phone calls from Firstpoint Collections starting in March 2024 that I hadn't paid the final meter reading to ComEd and that it has been sent to collections. I lost access to my ComEd account in Jan when the apartment's utilities were taken over by the new tenant, so I was not able to see the bill and did not receive any form of notice regarding this meter reading until the collections agency called me.

When I spoke to Firstpoint, I offered to pay it on the spot as long as it did not hit my credit report. The rep said that it would not, so I paid it. However, now I see the collections hit on my TransUnion and Equifax reports.

I called Firstpoint today to work on getting this removed and sent over screenshots of the collection showing on my reports because the rep said she did not see that it was reported to them.

What is the best way to move forward with this? I feel that I should dispute it with the credit bureaus, but how can I provide proof that I was not contacted until it hit collections?

I’ve been reading this sub and saw that I should be waiting till my statement posts and then pay the balance in full to get CLI. Well, I found out that two of my credit cards report to the bureau the same day the account posts the statement. So, should I carry a balance on my credit report every month cause the cards won’t clear or post my payment until the next day, right? Or should I keep on doing what I have been doing and pay the balance in full the day before my account is reported to the credit bureau’s?

My wife and I have very good credit and we are in the process of buying a house

About 6 months back, we moved out of a house. The landlord company did a walthrough and signed us off. About 2 months ago, they contacted us and said that there was an error and we owe one months rent. We went back and forth but got nowhere

Today we received an email from Hunter Warfield about that debt.

Should we just go ahead and pay it, ask them to validate the debt or something else?

We really dont want our credit report to take a hit.

The title pretty much says it all... I'm working to right the damage I've done over the past 15 years or so of irresponsible or downright detrimental behavior especially in terms of my finances now that I'm sober. Any advice would be very much appreciated.

My Experian credit report on my phone app reads 585 which should have gotten me approved for the medical credit card I was applying for to get a dental procedure, however the denial letter they sent me clocked me in at a 467. The documentation they sent said they also pull from Experian, so this discrepancy led me to dig deeper into mistakes of the past. It's funny, I can see from my credit history when my addiction started taking over. I was a responsible adult at one point in my life...

Below is a spreadsheet of all of my outstanding debts, amounts, and date they should fall off. Of course I see some low hanging fruit of smaller balances that I could pay relatively quickly, but unsure if there are other ways to easily give my credit a boost. I am working at a new, well paying job (and sober of course, or else I wouldn't gaf about my credit), so I really want to get this under control, or at least be able to get credit for this procedure. It seems it would make sense to have the associated interest rates but that would take me a while longer to track down. Let me know though if that makes a huge difference and I'll look into finding them. I've also heard that paying a settlement amount isn't the best course of action, though I get frequent offers.

My student loans are another issue entirely... Though I know I'll have to figure out how to deal with them eventually, my main focus right now and purpose of this post is to try and boost my credit.

Thanks so much in advance for any advice you might lend (haha pun not intended but keeping it).

Long story short I went through a divorce and she racked up the Amex card to 20k I called Amex today to see what they would settle for and they said 15k it’s been charged off for a year now. Does this seem like a good settlement to take or what should I do?

Changing my previous post (I think I did something wrong sub rules and it was removed, my bad!)

Simplifying my question - Has anyone had experience with Shepard Outsourcing debt collector? I've received a number of texts, I dont recognize any of the debt, but I just dont know if its legit or not.

Thank you in advance!

I have been trying to recover my credit from a nasty divorce and stupidly accepted several small predatory cards in my attempt to establish a positive credit profile, but the “annual fee”, “monthly maintenance fee”, “fee for having a fee” made sure I always had a balance and I ended up being nickel and dimed to death with payments. I just had some medical issues that put me in the position that I had to choose between paying household expenses and the payments on these cards.

My question is this: what will be easier to recover from- multiple 30 and 60 day late payments or bankruptcy?

Who is it that a debt collector uses as a witness during a lawsuit? The debt collector is currently trying to have our hearing with a zoom meeting because the lawyer and the witness are out of state. Is it someone from the original creditor?

I had a medical procedure last year that I have an outstanding bill on. I haven’t been too focused on it, just throwing a little bit at it each month since it’s no interest.

Well apparently the bill is split between multiple “accounts” and I’ve been paying towards the large “account” while none of what I’ve paid has gone towards the $164 account that I didn’t know was separate. I didn’t know it was separate because my online portal just shows a total amount owed, and I make a payment toward the total amount owed.

I got mail from a credit collector that they sent that $164 to collections (I didn’t know about the separate account thing until I got this letter and called the hospital to see what was going on).

Separate point but I thought that they couldn’t even send medical bills to collections under a certain amount anymore legally.

I paid it off and it hasn’t hit my credit yet, but how bad is it going to hurt me?

The only reason that I even care that much is that my car is starting to have more problems than it’s worth and I’m going to have to look at cars soon.

Hi people of the internet

Unfortunately for me my job slowed down BADLY, it’s a commission based job so I had to prioritize my bills. I paid my housing, car, and insurance because they are more essential to me than credit cards. Now I got another job to help pay more bills but now I am 2 months going on 3 behind on about 3 different lines of credit and one personal bank loan. PayPal and the personal bank loan closed the accounts. Then the other 2 credit cards are reporting delinquent payments. Is there anyway I can try and remove the delinquent payments from my history and what should I do about the 2 closed accounts. I intend on paying all accounts to good standing within a week because I am getting a paycheck from the new job. My credit score dropped over 150 points to the low 500s :’(. Any advice would be appreciated!

I made a big purchase on my credit card because I wanted the cash back. It was basically maxed out but I didn't think it would matter if I pay it all before the due date. Anyways I literally paid it the same day but it took a few days to post and update and what not. I guess my credit score was updated in those days because it's showing like 96 percent usage and my score dropped like 40 points. I keep waiting for it to update again because I'm car shopping pretty annoyed. I guess live and learn