What the size of the O-rings on a stock 11/16 trilogy valve? I rebuilt one for my stepson but it's leaking down the barrel. Stem and cup seal are both in very good condition.

I considered sticking a lazarus valve in it, but then i need to buy a new reg because i can't get the wgp valve lower than 300 psi.

Any help is appreciated.

Could anyone point me in the direction of a spring kit? Everywhere I look seems to be out of stock. I have a couple extra spring sets but I think they're the same. Figured in anticipation of getting 2 guns running it's likely I'll need a kit.

What psi rating hose do I need for the front end? I'm pretty sure it's 1/8" ID but don't know the pressure needed.

Also I'm setup for macro line on all my guns but don't have any here anyone know what works here 1/4" ID 800psi max nylon?

Had a Warped Sportz Dark Autococker 2k3 (Gen 3) along time ago and now back on the hunt for one. Looking to see if anyone wants to part ways and give it a new home.

Swapped the pneumatics for a CCM EZ pump kit. This is something I should have done a couple years ago. It gets used to much more now.

My son started asking about paintball , so I started telling him about my time with the game. We went down into my crawl space and found my old gear. I guess I decided to convert my trilogy to a pump and I forgot. I did a few cosmetic mods but nothing great ( didn't have a machine shop at that time). He's stuck on that cocker pump so AI think I'm going to properly machine it and give it to him for xmas.

I bought an autocockerparts low pressure valve to put in my 2k3 autococker. My stock valve has two holes on either side. The new valve has one and an inset on the other side. Does this inset need to line up with the set screw on the bottom of the body? Any help appreciated.

I’m looking to upgrade the trigger on my Empire sniper and trying to track down an Inception Designs Mamba trigger upgrade kit for it (trigger, pin, return spring and rolling sear) but obviously they haven’t been made for a while and seem to be unobtanium. Anyone have one hiding away they’d be willing to part with?

Just curious what this may go for as is? Most likely needs to be rebuilt to some degree. Found in a used gear lot.

So I need to replace the valve in my Sniper. I’m torn between doing an inception valve and the morph valve. I’m currently fully stock but was planning on getting the inception heavy hammer already. But now I’m thinking just replacing the whole lower tube. It is cheaper to go with the inception lower tube kit but I’m just not sure how well they perform comparatively. Any suggestions?

https://streamable.com/c8ygm2

Hey again, I should say I am new to Autocockers, this marker when I got it was told it has been sitting for 8 + years.

What I have done All new orings on the lower tube assembly New orings on banjo bolt x2 New orings in three way Lpr and ram oiled. Ivg is like a turn and half in.

Any advice/ tips would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

I just won a 2k3 Prostock on ebay. The description only says "Airs up and shoots"

If you bought a gun like this what maintenance would you expect to do, no matter the condition?

I am planing on rebuilding the regulator, timing the gun, and putting in a new set of springs. Is there anything else I should replace while I am at it?

I understand the idea "If it works don't fix it" but I have lots of time to tinker at home, and very little time to actually play paintball, so I don't want to fix anything at the field.

I have a new build that is having some issues. It is using all inception pneumatic, but every now and then the timing rod seems like it is getting stuck towards the rear and not returning forward. I can manually push the timing rod forward and it corrects itself. 3 way o-rings are the correct size, ram was recently rebuilt because it was having blow by. I can't hear any leaks and the reg pressure is about 150ish. Dye laz valve and jenny craig hammer.

This Autococker has been sitting for probably 8 years. It’s new to me. Valve nut is out no issue, the problem is I can’t seem to get the valve guide, exhaust valve, and valve spring out. Any tips.

I recently bought a shocktech pneumatics set for the 03 WGP vert feed cocker I am building. The set came with a low pressure chamber. Will it give a conventional body cocker any advantage? Not so much new to cockers but it's been 20 years since having one and I mostly had stock WGP's with aftermarket regs and bolts. Any advice appreciated.

I've go a few old school barrels (a Dye UL, and Armson rifled, plus a couple of WGP) I'd like to get milled for freak inserts. Super Stanchy used to do it back in the day, but not sure if he's still around. Any suggestions on who I can go to nowadays. Been out fo the sport for a decade and looking to get back in with some of my "relic" markers.

Hey all. New to autocockers and have a basic understanding of how they operate. I bought a trilogy pro second hand about a month ago.

When I first took it out to play it worked flawlessly. But since then every time I air it up it leaks until I manually cock the bolt back, then in fires and cycles as normal. I’ve cleaned and lubed the bolt thinking that might be the issue but it still happens.

What could be causing this?

Thinking about starting on a project cocker, but have general questions about anno/finishing... I see several parts are offered in "raw" unannodized form, which I assume would be easiest to anno... Several body kits I have seen require "minor finishing" prior to anno... Is this something the anno shop would take care of?

Also, lets say you purchase an older cocker and fix it up. Would you be able to re-anno to a color of your choice without issues? Does anyone have an ballpark figure on what to expect price wise? I was thinking a single color, either polished or dust finish, nothing crazy. Thanks!

I don’t know much about autocockers. I believe this is a WGP but unsure of the model.