Good evening all this is my current set-up as you can see. Pls ignore the drilled holes on lower tube as previous owner did that for some odd reason. Currently has wgp lowers and is a gas hog, I'm looking into putting full lower kit from shocktech. My question is should I stick with valve and hammer spring from the kit or change those. I've done some research but want to hear currently what's worked for most of y'all. I'd appreciate any information, appreciate your time.

A friend of my mine is looking to sell his gear. He has this gun. Can anyone tell me more about it as well as what it's value is. Thanks.

Building a pro-stock right now and I'm having trouble with the three way valve barbs leaking at the barb end. All other connections are fine both thread size and barb side. What size thread are ANS three way barbs and would any of you maybe have some.

Anyone direct me to information on this, or know the answer?

Hi everyone. I just scored a new to me resurrection. It’s in real great shape, so I’m real happy. I’ve never owned an auto cocker of any kind, so I have got some questions.

1. When is a complete rebuild required? Right now it airs up perfectly and shoots great. I would assume that it’s sat for a few years, so I’m not sure if I should go ahead and rebuild the pneumatics or just leave them till it leaks. Is there a set schedule to maintenance the pneumatics? Or are they a set and forget sort of deal.

2. What upgrades are a necessary if any? I’ve already ordered a new dye reg and off/on asa, had good experiences with them on my pumps.

Can I use any frame on a resurrection autococker.

What parts can I use?

Does anyone remember who was making new boards for eblades? I remember hearing about it a few years ago. I'd like the ability to shoot NXL ramping in a tournament for the lolz. Thanks!

Karni pfa.

Does the 2k3 prostock pneus shroud fit a 2k4 prostock?

Thanks

So, I recently purchased an autococker trilogy pro sf, don't have it in hand yet, and it's the first cocker I actually own/will be working on.

I understand that the stock board doesn't have any firing modes that are currently useable, and I was wondering if anyone made any boards to fit these frames?

I know I could fit an e-blade on it, but I'm just weighing options for now

Alternatively since this looks like it's just a pneumatic autococker with an electronic sear, is it possible that a spyder t-board could be made to work?

Or if I decide to go mech, is it as simple as swapping the trigger frame since the marker already uses a mechanical 3-way?

Thanks to Bearded Works, she's alive, timed and ready to go! I made the mistake of getting a full size timing rod when gathering all the parts but thankfully Bearded Works ships quick and had a mini rod in stock.

Do they exist, maybe someone has a 3D print file?

Going full ST here, well except for the asa. But not sure what to do with anno. Ideas? Don’t mind the box, I got excited.

Once I get a cocking rod I will be able to finish installing the pneumatics but at least it looks like an autococker now!

Looking to avoid milling anything. Picture added for reference. Also are all hopper feeds sized universally these days?

If I wanted to add a shutoff valve to the side of a duckbill ASA, what would I need. I know it's threaded for 1/8" IPT. But I cannot seem to find a shutoff valve rated high enough for the tanks pressure.

So the impulse buy of an lv2 just lost to this. Anyone want an lv2, lol.

Let’s hear some ideas for this build!

Im working on my first build (and first mini) and was curious if a low pressure chamber was required. I will be running all Shocktech internals and can easily add their low pressure chamber if needed.