Just curious what this may go for as is? Most likely needs to be rebuilt to some degree. Found in a used gear lot.

So I need to replace the valve in my Sniper. I’m torn between doing an inception valve and the morph valve. I’m currently fully stock but was planning on getting the inception heavy hammer already. But now I’m thinking just replacing the whole lower tube. It is cheaper to go with the inception lower tube kit but I’m just not sure how well they perform comparatively. Any suggestions?

https://streamable.com/c8ygm2

Hey again, I should say I am new to Autocockers, this marker when I got it was told it has been sitting for 8 + years.

What I have done All new orings on the lower tube assembly New orings on banjo bolt x2 New orings in three way Lpr and ram oiled. Ivg is like a turn and half in.

Any advice/ tips would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

I just won a 2k3 Prostock on ebay. The description only says "Airs up and shoots"

If you bought a gun like this what maintenance would you expect to do, no matter the condition?

I am planing on rebuilding the regulator, timing the gun, and putting in a new set of springs. Is there anything else I should replace while I am at it?

I understand the idea "If it works don't fix it" but I have lots of time to tinker at home, and very little time to actually play paintball, so I don't want to fix anything at the field.

I have a new build that is having some issues. It is using all inception pneumatic, but every now and then the timing rod seems like it is getting stuck towards the rear and not returning forward. I can manually push the timing rod forward and it corrects itself. 3 way o-rings are the correct size, ram was recently rebuilt because it was having blow by. I can't hear any leaks and the reg pressure is about 150ish. Dye laz valve and jenny craig hammer.

This Autococker has been sitting for probably 8 years. It’s new to me. Valve nut is out no issue, the problem is I can’t seem to get the valve guide, exhaust valve, and valve spring out. Any tips.

I recently bought a shocktech pneumatics set for the 03 WGP vert feed cocker I am building. The set came with a low pressure chamber. Will it give a conventional body cocker any advantage? Not so much new to cockers but it's been 20 years since having one and I mostly had stock WGP's with aftermarket regs and bolts. Any advice appreciated.

I've go a few old school barrels (a Dye UL, and Armson rifled, plus a couple of WGP) I'd like to get milled for freak inserts. Super Stanchy used to do it back in the day, but not sure if he's still around. Any suggestions on who I can go to nowadays. Been out fo the sport for a decade and looking to get back in with some of my "relic" markers.

Hey all. New to autocockers and have a basic understanding of how they operate. I bought a trilogy pro second hand about a month ago.

When I first took it out to play it worked flawlessly. But since then every time I air it up it leaks until I manually cock the bolt back, then in fires and cycles as normal. I’ve cleaned and lubed the bolt thinking that might be the issue but it still happens.

What could be causing this?

Thinking about starting on a project cocker, but have general questions about anno/finishing... I see several parts are offered in "raw" unannodized form, which I assume would be easiest to anno... Several body kits I have seen require "minor finishing" prior to anno... Is this something the anno shop would take care of?

Also, lets say you purchase an older cocker and fix it up. Would you be able to re-anno to a color of your choice without issues? Does anyone have an ballpark figure on what to expect price wise? I was thinking a single color, either polished or dust finish, nothing crazy. Thanks!

I don’t know much about autocockers. I believe this is a WGP but unsure of the model.

Recently had a marker teched by well known tech. Marker came back working flawless. They suggested I put qevs. Ok no big deal. So I do, wait a day come back to air it up, now the solenoid is leaking. Bad qev? I did not adjust anything. Just remove hoses. Remove barbs. Replace barb with qev. Replace hoses with new hose. That's it. I'm at a loss

I’m another 30 some year old who would like to come back to the sport now that I’m an adult and live close to paintball fields. I miss my beautiful autococker that I sold when I left the sport. Anyways money is a bit tight and rather than spend money on some entry level cocker from twenty some years ago I figure I can just buy it piece by piece. Is there a good online guide for building your own and does anybody have a parts master list so I can see how viable building one from scratch would be? Thanks

Can anyone confirm the model/year of this AC? It has a serial number 95006.
When i looked at a serial chart it says 2000 but i dont think thats right based on other pics ive seen.
I was thinking it was more like a '97?
Im looking to start paintballing again and wanted to pick up a project to mess around with and shoot.
Also could somebody tell me common issues with this particular model?
Thanks

https://preview.redd.it/brc38rz1nkpd1.jpg?width=1599&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=324e1c73c0c5ab271ecc846766d7ebcd8f28672f

I have a Vigilante reg on one of my autocockers I'd like to turn into a pump. Seeings how it is an uncommon HPR to have I figured it would be cool to use it if I can. The gun has sat around for 20 years since I was a kid. Looking for any info or if rebuild parts are available. I emailed Immortal Air which claims to support AA stuff but they never got back to me. Any help appreciated.

Is there a difference between flat, coned or rounded hammer lugs? If so what are the applications best for each?

Looking to purchase an autococked body to do a mech build and I'm seeing a lot of body's drilled for eyes. If I'm just using it as a mech, will the holes for the eyes give me any issues?