Is there a difference between flat, coned or rounded hammer lugs? If so what are the applications best for each?

Looking to purchase an autococked body to do a mech build and I'm seeing a lot of body's drilled for eyes. If I'm just using it as a mech, will the holes for the eyes give me any issues?

Stuff you can't see: AKA Lightning Bolt & CCM Internals

Starting a new custom build. All the parts are in and waiting to go to anodizing. Parts list: Mozak body ID ripper, asa, pneumatic, bolt Profile feedneck Aftershock acculok barrel Aka sidewinder Shocktech cooking rod, ivg, beaver tail, detent Dye laz valve Jenny craig hammer Valkyrie 1911 grips

I am working on suping up a WGP 2K2 prostock and I am looking to replace the lower tube internals. Does anyone know what is a good valve/hammer to use for this marker? Thanks!

Does anyone have a chart with the bolt lengths for Autocockers? I just bought a trident bolt from ebay that was advertised as 2k+ length, but it's almost an inch shorter than all the other 2k bolts i have.

Quick question- I need a new bolt for my 2k5 prostock. It has a “p block”. I’m looking at the Inception Designs bolt. Is the Evo size correct or is it a Full Body 2k+ version?

Thanks!

Hi guys,

I'm an old player who is getting back into the game and looking to give my old pump gun a bit of a spruce up. I've got a 2k1 right feed that I converted into a pump back in 2003ish. Love that thing and never want to replace it, but I'm thinking I'd like to replace the full lower tube internals with a new valve kit, and I'm looking for suggestions. Any input is greatly appreciated!

I’m putting a Shocktech Rat valve in an 04 Prostock, and the valve-retaining setscrew won’t flush up. Is this a common thing with rat valves? And am I gonna have to special order this stupid screw since the local Ace Hardware doesn’t seem to carry too many 5/16-24 set screws?

Anyone has one and tested this valve. Compared to others, what’s the performance? Please do tell!

My Trilogy Sport I'm working on for next year with the Scenario team.

• CP regulator, barrel (.685 back), and ASA
• Lazarus valve
• TechT adjustable 3-way rod and lightweight back block
• 32 Degrees drop forward and grip
• Axe 2.0 barrel (.688)
• HK Army micro gauge on my regulator
• planning on getting the body milled for the Empire feedneck. Also planning on doing a purple lightning hydro dip for the body and hopper

Hey guys, I am looking at picking up an orracle that has a stock feedneck and was wondering how complicated is it to put on a clamp style? From my understanding the oracles are “pressed on”? Will that cause any complications and are there any specific feedneck clamps you guys recommend?

Got my autococker back from Docfire paintball. Cant wait to shoot this thing again. For the first time in 15 years. Also these 68ci HK Army tanks are too short for an autococker lol.

Going through some old stuff and came across this, is it still worth anything / does anyone need it for a build?

I just picked up an ANS 3-way on ebay for $5. Does anyone have any experience with these? Seems very similar to the shocktech bomb 3-way. Except this seems like it will be a little harder to time. Any input is appreciated.

Just got back into the sport thus year and found I like teaching and tuning my markers. Rebuilt my old RF pump. Pic attached and rebuilt both of my brothers older markers, one DM7 and one DM5. Was looking to build my own autococker and I am looking for recommendations for the build. Should I go 11/16 or 9/16 for my valve size? Internals? Pneumatics? Regs? I already have the body picked out and will do a custom anno.

Pick attached of RF pump: Delrin bolt Shocktech lowers Inception asa Dye UL frame Dye UF reg Sconi feedneck Acculock barrel kit (not pictured)

Any one know what size the standard BB size in the bolt pin detent is?

I popped the nipple off my lpr like a dummy and I’m curious if anyone knows the size of the nipple replacement, or better wheee to get these? Thanks!

Ok people way smarter than me, I have a leak on a old cocker I’m trying to get working . I attached a photo of the location. I did remove the solenoid and put dow 33 on all the orings . Thanks in advanced you gurus!