/r/alpinism

Photograph via snooOG

Alpinism is a style of mountaineering which focuses on "light and fast" climbs using few camps and limited equipment. This is in contrast to "expedition-style" climbs where numerous camps are set up, larger amounts of gear are brought in, and ropes are sometimes fixed.

There is no strict rule in this subreddit as to the type of content allowed. Stories about expeditions on Denali or Everest are fine. Questions from n00bs about how to start out in the sport or what kind of gear is best are fine as well.

Be civil to each other, don't spam, and have fun!

If you have suggestions regarding the content and direction of the subreddit, drop a comment in here perhaps.

For other outdoor activities, see:

New Pacific NorthWest Discord! Link to Join

r/climbing <-Vertical Hiking

r/iceclimbing <- Ice Climbing

r/climbingporn <- Climbing Porn [SFW]

r/trailguides <- Looking for beta on trails? Check this out.

r/campingandHiking <-Camping and Hiking tips, trip reports & stories, and news.

r/outdoors <-R/Outdoors

r/outdoorsgear <-Discussions about gear for your adventures

r/slackline <-Work on the balance and core strength - very fun

r/meditation <-Clear your mind

r/TrailMeals <-What's in your stomach?

r/BuschCraft <- Creativity and ingenuity for survival in the backcountry.

/r/alpinism

80,991 Subscribers

1

8.0 half or 8.7 Triple for Cascades?

0 Comments
2024/06/20
15:09 UTC

10

Diamox, opinions on taking pre-emptively

Hey folks, looking for some opinions on using Diamox pre-emptively to aid acclimatisation.

We've a 4 week trip with ambitions of moderate routes (D/TD) <6500m. I will be going from sea level where I live in the UK straight to Huarez at 3000m and will likely feel grim for a few days when first arriving.

We've no fixed agenda for our trip and will be taking a slow and steady approach to acclimatisation, seeing how we feel before deciding on specific objectives.

I'm relatively experienced in the European alps and haven't had too much trouble acclimatising with a slow and steady approach i.e. 2500, then 3000, then 3500 over a week or so for >4000m objectives but I'm curious to hear from folks who've been higher than this and if they took Diamox pre-emptively or just kept it in the pack just in case.

Thanks in advance!

23 Comments
2024/06/19
11:20 UTC

29

Descent of the mer da glace, chamonix side, in 1899.

0 Comments
2024/06/19
08:21 UTC

87

Climbing on Mt Andromeda (Canadian Rockies) with a ton of late spring snow

4 Comments
2024/06/19
00:10 UTC

11

What's your FAVORITE glove?

The glove you always reach for

the glove that does it all

the glove that's never too hot or too cold

(I'm in the market)

19 Comments
2024/06/18
21:50 UTC

4

Chamonix in July?

I’ll be going to Switzerland for work and planning to add a couple of days to go check out Chamonix for the first time. I’ve been a rock climber for 10 years with a little bit of ice/alpine experience. Not in the best climbing shape at the moment as I’ve recently been mostly focused on trail running.

Any doable 1 day ascents I should look into? Open to hiring guides as well if that’s the best way.

This will be my first time there so I’m open to all recommendations!

13 Comments
2024/06/18
19:47 UTC

111

Climbing a fun chimney up Mt. Edith in the Canadian Rockies

19 Comments
2024/06/18
14:32 UTC

89

Let's Talk About Legendary Climbers That No One Knows About

Anyone else getting a bit tired of hearing about Alex Honnold and all the big-name pro climbers? In this new episode of The Climbing Majority Podcast they interviewed a local crusher in Lone Pine named Myles Moser. He talked about his self-funded first ascent of Plate Tectonics (grade VI 5.12 C1) on the east face of the North Tower of Torres Del Paine, plus a bunch of other crazy stories and routes that most people have never heard about. Got me thinking, who are some other climbers out there pushing the sport and doing amazing things that don't get enough recognition?

Listen to the episode here

57 Comments
2024/06/17
21:19 UTC

1

Training Club - Week 25 - 29 April, 2024

Join us here to track and update us on your training progress.

About Training Club

A lot of people on r/alpinism train systematically using TFTNA or other approaches. In order to stay motivated and work towards goals, it's useful to share your progress or discuss obstacles; to celebrate your achievements or learn from your failures; and to share knowledge widely about training for the mountains.

New to these training concepts? Uphill Athlete has a condensed explanation: https://www.uphillathlete.com/training-for-mountaineering/

Also recommend:

Members

A weekly thread will be posted every Monday - if it's Monday and it isn't posted yet, feel free to take the initiative! Those who are regularly training can post an update on their progress, and anyone who wants to contribute or ask questions is welcome to. I suggest we should follow an approximate format of:

What did you do this week? This is best itemized into days of the week, but you don't have to. As much detail as you feel is necessary.

What are you planning to do next week? This doesn't necessarily have to be itemised into days, but just a rough list of the training you plan to do.

What are your Short Term, Medium Term, and Long Term Goals? This will help to keep you on track. What are the STG you'd like to achieve in, say, the next month? What are the MTG (say, next 3-6 months) that these will feed into? What are the LTG (12+ months) that your training plan is helping you work towards? These should be SMART: Specific, Measurable, Attainable, Relevant and Time-bound. The more specific you can be, the more motivated you will be to train.

Some Notes

Posting consistently in Training Club will keep you accountable and provide a useful log of your training journey, so aim to post every week, irrespective of whether you achieved what you set out to achieve.

Anyone who wants to get involved is welcome to. It doesn't matter whether you're making your first forays into the alpine, or whether you're a seasoned expedition veteran. Training is training, and this is a community that's supportive of all the different facets of alpinism.

If you have any suggestions for improvements, changes in format, tips for other users, questions, comments etc. etc. then post them! If you see an opportunity to make things better, if you've got a question about training, or you want to chat with other participants about their activity/goals, then post it up in here!

First time contributors should give a short introduction. Happy to keep it anonymous, but it'd be useful to know a little bit about your background, where you're based, how long you've been climbing in the alpine, and what you're psyched for.

5 Comments
2024/06/17
19:17 UTC

4

Glacier rope comparisons

Hi all, I've been looking at picking up a dedicated glacier rope for ski mountaineering, it will only be used for roped travel, a rescue line, and maybe an occasional rappel. It seems like the petzl rad line is the go-to for this. I've been looking at other 6mm cord and came across the sterling power cord. It seems pretty compelling:

Rad line:

  • Price: ~$6.5 per meter
  • Strength: 12kN
  • Weight: 22g per meter

Power cord:

  • Price: ~$5.5 per meter
  • Strength: 19kN
  • Weight: 24g per meter

The power cord is slightly heavier but for a 50m rope the weight difference comes out to only 100g which is pretty negligible. For a cheaper and stronger rope the power cord seems to be a no-brainer. What other dimensions am I missing that would make the rad line more compelling?

19 Comments
2024/06/17
16:37 UTC

1

A weekend getaway from Amsterdam

Hi,

I am (34 m) originally from Pune, India. I have moved to the Netherlands about 7 months ago and the only thing i really miss here in the Netherlands are some good mountains for hiking.

I work as a techie and I do not have a lot of holidays during this summer. Can someone please suggest or help me plan a comfortable weekend trip into the Alps? Im a millennial who loved watching Heidi. My friends have suggested me to go to Austria or French alps. But i doubt it would be all feasible if i want to wrap it all up in a weekend without making it too hectic.

TIA

8 Comments
2024/06/17
11:03 UTC

10

Looking to buy my first ice axe

I'm looking to buy my first ice axe.

What I'm looking for is an ice axe that is useful in a variety of terrains (glacier travel, snow slopes, easy climbs, graded around PD or AD...)

The two options I've been studying are Petzl Gully and Simond anaconda.

Later down the line I would probably purchase a more technical pair if I end up going for more spicy climbs.

Could you guys recommend if you have experience with either of those 2 ice tools? Or any other options you might consider for what I'm looking for?

20 Comments
2024/06/17
10:35 UTC

0

Why is it so expensive to just hike?

Hi,

We will arrive to the area with a car in mid July, and we are interested to get some good hiking 7-10 days. It could be hut to hut, or just from a base. We already been to Dolomites and Tirol, and we do not care what area to hike, something from the North Tirol till Bolzano or anywhere a bit to the West. (Austria/Italy)

Thing is - prices, it seems that for a couple this 10 days of walking is going to cost 600-800++ Euros. All Airbnbs have ridicules prices, booking is the same. The huts mostly ask around 40 per person, which is 80 for couple x 10 = 800 without food.

If you walk most of the day, why do you need to pay 800 Euros for accommodation ?
Can you advise us any kind of route that will not cost so much? 7 -10 days ?

Thank you.

73 Comments
2024/06/17
10:01 UTC

23

Going to the US soon, what gear is cheaper in the US than in Europe?

Hello everyone, As a poor alpinist, I always try to find the best deal for my gear.

I'll soon be flying in NY for my work and was told that, because of lower taxes, some stuff was cheaper in the US than in France. Thus, I'm wondering if it's worth my time to try to find some nice cheap gear there?

What do you think? I'm mostly looking for clothes / ice climbing gear because that's the part of alpinism where I haven't completed my collection, but as you know, we never truly complete the collection so if you know a nice deal, I'm always happy to hear it! thanks!

35 Comments
2024/06/15
21:38 UTC

0

Experience Meindl Sonnalp

I recently stumbled across this shoe and found the choice of a drill binding, which I know more from snowboarding, exciting for a mountain shoe. The model is: Meindl SONNALP MFS GTX (BOA)

Does anyone have experience with it?

3 Comments
2024/06/15
18:25 UTC

121

Phunjo Lama became a fastest woman to scale Mount Everest in the world.

13 Comments
2024/06/14
07:26 UTC

9

Feedback on bugaboos gear - Late summer

Looking for some feedback on my gear list for the bugs late this summer, end of august/beginning of september. Headed out there from Ontario, and looking to climb easy (5.10+ and below) classics. Our toughest route will likely be the Beckey-Chouinard, and we're not sure if we're going to bivy mid-route.

I've put together two lighterpacks - one heavy with everything I'd want to bring, and one light where I cut out some clothes, a small stove, and a few other items. Complete list of removed/changed items is on the light list page. The heavy list has a baseweight of 51 lbs, and the light list has a base weight of 43 lbs.

Heavy

Light

For consumables (liquor, food, fuel), we'll probably do a second trip midweek, where we can also bring things to/from the car that we're not using, or that we think we would need.

The list only really includes my gear, sharing the stove, tent, rope, and rack. My partner is also bringing a rack (~1kg) but we'll be changing what we bring per route. He's got a 30L climbing pack, and a bigger pack to carry gear in.

Looking for specific feedback on the following:

  • Approach shoes vs boots
    • I have a set of aequilibrium LT boots, and tx4 approach shoes. Both are great for hiking and for climbing, but the tx4s aren't waterproof and I'd like to spend as much time not wearing climbing shoes on easy terrain as possible. If I can keep my feet dry, I'll keep my climbing shoes stowed for longer.
  • Pack setup
    • Right now I've got an arc'teryx rescue pack 50 (which is closer to 75L) and a black diamond 15L running vest. I'm considering switching out the 15L for a 25L if we will bivy on-route on the Beckey-Chouinard, since my 15L definitely won't fit bivy gear, even with my partner's 30L pack that he would climb with.
    • I'm also considering ditching both and going with my osprey mutant 38, which I'm happy climbing with. This would mean doing two trips on the first day.
  • Rope setup
    • Right now we've got a 70m 9.4 dry rope, which is great, but we need a system to do full-length rappels. Would we be better off:
      • Getting a beal escaper - I'm not worried it wouldn't hold, but worried about it getting stuck and our rope being irretrievable.
      • Getting a tagline - easier and more versatile than the escaper, but similar downsides unless you pull fat, which comes with its own issues.
      • Getting doubles - probably the best call, but budget is tight!
  • Sleeping bag
    • Currently have a -7C down bag, but considering bringing a 0C synthetic. They pack to around the same size and weight, but I think I'd be smart to have the extra warmth. That being said, there's a nonzero chance the bag gets wet, in which case I'm SOL until it dries.

Thanks for any suggestions or advice.

29 Comments
2024/06/14
02:47 UTC

4

Baruntse next spring

Hello everyone!

I hope all is well with you. In the upcoming spring (2025), we are planning to attempt Baruntse in Nepal, which stands at about 7100m. As this will be my first experience at such high altitude, I would like to seek your advice on clothing.

To start with, do you think G2evo boots will suffice for this expedition, or should I opt for something warmer?

I have been considering down jackets such as Annapurna or K7, but I am unsure if they will provide enough warmth. Is it possible to rent suitable gear in Nepal?

Another concern of mine is regarding my contact lenses, which I use regularly in my daily life and for mountaineering at lower altitudes. I am unsure if there may be any issues with cleaning solutions for contact lenses at such high altitudes. What do you recommend in such situations?

Lastly, if you have any advice or tips for our upcoming expedition, we would greatly appreciate it.

Thank you in advance for your assistance.

9 Comments
2024/06/12
23:36 UTC

2

When is the wind to strong to summit?

Novice mountaineer. Currently looking at Mont Blanc as an example where the winds are around 40-50 km/h currently at the summit. I assume that’s too strong? What is the cutoff normally for a decent safe assent?

9 Comments
2024/06/12
19:43 UTC

17

When do you guys retire ropes due to soft spots? Am I being paranoid?

Hey - as the title suggests, need some more informed guidance on when a soft spot is too soft. Here's two photos from my 8.9mm single rope used for multi pitch / alpine stuff. Any thoughts?

https://imgur.com/a/tsfelyb

28 Comments
2024/06/12
16:22 UTC

5

Rope Length for North Cascades Alpine Rock Climbs

What’s the standard rope length for alpine rock climbs in the North Cascades?

Examples would be the North Ridge of Mt Stuart, the East Ridge of Inspiration Peak, or the Triple Couloirs on Dragontail Peak.

Do you own a 30m for non technical glacier, and a 50m, 60m or 70m for technical climbs? Double ropes or singe? Is there a workhorse rope you use to cover the majority of your more technical alpine rock/ice objectives?

35 Comments
2024/06/11
23:24 UTC

5

Mountain Hardware AGM 75

I’m looking for packs in the 50-80l range for multi day trips and the Mountain Hardware AMG 75 seems like it checks all the right boxes. What are your opinions on the pack? Also, what are some good alternative packs in that range?

12 Comments
2024/06/11
21:19 UTC

15

Mount Fairweather - Carpe Ridge

10 Comments
2024/06/11
19:45 UTC

86

Lost GOPRO HERO 10 with tons of footage in Chamonix (read desc)

lost a go pro from my first trip to Chamonix and it had tons of quality footage on it from my Marbre Traverse and trip up the Midi. (see video from Marbre)

I dropped it on the street inbetween the Super U and Hotel La Verticale, and came back for it literally seconds later but someone had picked it up and taken it.

There was so much cool stuff on it, not to mention some funny videos of my friends being stupid while abroad.

Pretty upset about the footage and less so the camera.

Just putting it out here in case anyone has come across it.

I want my FOOTAGE, you can keep the camera 😩.

8 Comments
2024/06/11
15:51 UTC

6

Approach mid shoes without GTX lining

As per title..

Do you know if exist a mid-height approach shoes without a gore tex (or others) membrane? I don't want to use it in summer season.

In the past I used the La Sportiva Ganda Guide and 5.10 Exum Guide but both are out of production.

Thank you

Davide

19 Comments
2024/06/11
06:49 UTC

8

Sleep system for summer overnight climbs in Chamonix

For a couple of routes I'd like to do this summer it's common to bivy as part of the whole ordeal:

  • peurterey integrale
  • walker spur
  • charmoz-grepon traverse

with the right partner I'd go for the in a day approach, but assuming I'm planning on sleeping a night outside, what would be good sleep systems for these routes? I guess one assumption would be that the final decision to do the route would be made day of/day before, when we can be quite confident about weather (if the weather's iffy, probably choose a less huge objective).

There's a matrix of variables and choices here:

  • share a sleeping bag?
  • foam pad + inflatable vs rope pad + inflatable vs sleeping on the rope like a hard MFer?
  • rope system? (some of these a single+tag line makes sense, which could replace the foam pad for one partner)
  • tent? tarp + bivy? just bivy? just tarp? this choice of course affects the ability to share a sleeping bag
  • big down belay puffy as part of sleeping system?
  • and then of course, the bivy spots on route affect this as well, bivy sacks having the smallest footprint
10 Comments
2024/06/10
10:29 UTC

0

Which are the best down jackets in 2024?

We are planning several tours this year. Our plans include the Großvendiger, Mont Kazbek (Caucasian), Breithorn. I have all the needed equipment except a good down jacket. It is really hard to tell which will be warm enough for these climbs. Currently my aim is to get a Mammut Meron IN down jacket, the specs seem to be okay for these. Do you think it will be warm enough in -15 -20 °C as well? Will it be too much? Are there any other good options to consider?

13 Comments
2024/06/10
09:23 UTC

6

Mont Blanc outfit, tips for layering? Unsure if good enough

Going for Mont Blanc next month, still slightly unsure about outfit/layers. Thoughts? I'm mostly worried about strong winds and warmth. Unsure if this is adequate?

(Gloves, neckwarmer, ice axe, harness+crampons is already taken care of)

My current outfit;

Baselayer; Merino wool long sleeve

Midlayer; Patagonia R1 air full zip hoodie

Outer; Puff jacket H20

Pants; Fjällraven Keb trousers M regular

Shell; North face rain jacket (just in case of strong winds and rain)

(Shoes are well tested with crampons, i have done other 4.000's with no problem in them. cAmp shoes)

https://preview.redd.it/ixanebhlsk5d1.jpg?width=274&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=eadafe36869bc59163f5e8de4c612f4c1378f99c

https://preview.redd.it/rhtbpo92tk5d1.png?width=1425&format=png&auto=webp&s=2b9e46f3d5063c4dc3082bd2782ae992157e55af

26 Comments
2024/06/09
16:58 UTC

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