Hello and Happy Halloween 🎃 I posted here a couple weeks back about alternator removal in my 69 bug. Wanted to report back that I was able to remove and replace the alternator and the bug is rolling ice again. I appreciate all the advice and encouragement given. Thank you! 🙏

I am looking for a van for my local business. I specialize in vintage industries (upcycling, retro clothing, antiques & vintage wares). Definitely got my eye on a late bay window. I have read up extensively and it seems that the biggest argument against it being a daily is the under-powered and semi unreliable engine. I have found one that has had a professional Subaru engine swap, power steering and disc brakes. Would these factors all be enough to overcome the concerns and use it as a daily for my business?

I've got a single-port 1641cc currently that is mostly stock, so pretty sure the redline is around 4500 rpm. I want to install a tach, knowing that I'll probably do an engine build in the next couple years. How likely am I to need a tach that goes beyond 6000 RPM? Which one would you choose?

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Hello, so I have a 1970 vw fastback and I am having some carb problems... long story short the spring that is jerry rigged to reset my accelerator cable got caught on something and I drove like that for a bit:/ my car is now idling extremely high and I have a feeling it just messed up the tuning of my carbs... my only problem with getting it fixed is I just recently moved to the Clarksville area in Tennessee and cannot find a mechanic for the life of me that works on air cooled/classic cars. Would anyone happen to know of a mechanic or anywhere I could take my vw to? Even something within a two hour drive would be great!! Thank you

Can someone explain to me what these different ports mean/uses/compatibility.

I’m looking to put dual Web idf 44’s on my fiberglass buggy. From the papers I have a 1969 Brazilian case 2165cc with 42x37 heads lots of other details on the receipts but it’s all kinda foreign to me still googling and learning

Currently running with a single idf 44 but looking to upgrade Hoping someone with a little expertise can chime in on what these options mean. And possibly size jets and such I should try

How would you guys go about cleaning the exterior and sealing/protecting the patina? Any product recommendations?

Posting this as a warning to those who don't already know about their unethical business practices. Read their Google, Yelp, and Samba reviews before ordering anything from them.

Yelp reviews

Google reviews

Buyer/Seller feedback from The Samba (snipped to the last 3 1/2 years)

My story is similar to many posted in their reviews - I ordered an engine nearly 2 1/2 years ago. They, at the time, were saying it would be roughly a 20 week build time. They knew they weren't able to get vital components, yet have kept taking peoples' money and promising parts and engines in a reasonable time frame, then stringing people along with excuses.

They've refused to offer a refund, despite the fact that they haven't delivered anything but excuses and empty promises. Their latest was that my engine was going to be ready in September - it's now mid-October, and still nothing.

At this point, I don't even want whatever engine they'll cobble together.

Looking at buying a 1989 Volkswagen Kombi T2 built in Mexico (old school version) with liquid cooled boxer engine, should I avoid it? What's build quality and reliability like for those things?

Thanks,

Matthew

I'm looking to replace these exhaust pipes I think you call them for something steel something harder any ideas.

https://imgur.com/a/IuUr66g

Some of you wanted to see the bees, I wasn't able to really get close enough or get a good picture of the hive itself, but the link above show the little things flying into the vent.

Sill looking into getting a keeper to come out to get them.

From the pics, any ideas where the actual hive might be in the car?

Fixing to redo the engine tins on a new to me 66. My question is should I keep the aftermarket trans oil cooler on the back firewall or remove and add the factory doghouse oil cooler?

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So my pal and I were discussing about the effects of downshifting (engine braking), but particularly as it relates to fuel consumption and engine temp. He’s got a 64 bug with dp 1600 with a 30p3 carb, while mine is a 66 with an sp 1600 with an h3031 carb. We both use old-school condenser points for our ignitions.

Something worth mentioning :

(First, under normal “static” carb tuning at idle at 850 rpm, and timing is 7.5° before TDC is one atm (14.7 psia ) above throttle plate and about 16 inches mercury remove below the throttle plate (6.839 psia). Under load at say 2,500 rpm, timing advanced to like 29° while vacuum pressure drops to say only 10 inches mercury removed (9.787 psia), while case pressure becomes positive. BUT under engine breaking, the exact opposite happens at 2,500 rpm. Vacuum pressure surges to say 24 inches mercury removed (2.908 psia), timing retards to say 0° TDC, while case pressure becomes negative.

From a thermodynamic POV only, the point I make is that GENTLE engine braking acts as a heat pump to cool the engine from from WITHIN the cylinder. The fuel air mixture being introduced via the carb’s idle circuit (throttle plate closed, but greater vacuum below it due to engine braking) essentially serves as the refrigerant.

During the intake stroke it absorbs heat from the ports heads and cylinder walls.

During compression stroke it’s temp rises as it’s pressure reaches stoichiometric equilibrium at TDC without pre-detonating (assume 91 octane).

During power stroke, spark goes bang at TDC, which is inefficient so incomplete fuel combustion. When piston goes downward, the flue gasses cool, and we are at vacuum at BDC. This vacuum pressure draws oil vapors from crank case (facilitated via intake air above carb going downwards via vent tube into the case) then into the CYLINDER via blow-by. This “negative crankcase pressure” is evaporative in nature, acting to cool the liquid motor oil within the case.

On the exhaust stroke, all that heat is thrown out.

My friend understands and ‘mostly’ agrees, but adds : Using the idle circuit that way will draw even more gas because the closed throttle plate essentially behaves like a secondary choke - needlessly enriching the AFR.

I said “YES, but” that’s assuming 1 atm above the carburetor. But the negative crankcase pressure now DRAWS IN air from the oil bath cleaner above, meaning a low pressure. The now-lowered pressure created above throttle plate offsets the increased vacuum pressure below throttle plate due to engine braking.. so we’re back at around 16 ish inches mercury anyway.

Which of our opinions makes more sense?

Upgraded my carb but haven't been able to get started. All of the adjustment screws were bottomed out. Does anyone know the baseline settings? (e.g. back off 1½ turns, ¼ turn, bang a teapot, sacrifice a chicken....)

Hi everyone, I have a 1968 VW beetle, 1300. It currently won’t start on its own but does start with a little easy start and then will idle absolutely fine for about 2 minutes then will cut out altogether and then won’t start again without easy start. I’ve changed the inline filter recently as it was in the engine bay and scaring me a bit after hearing a horror story of someone else’s bursting into flames. I’ve moved it behind the fan housing near the gearbox out the way and replaced the pipes from it to the fuel pump and from the pump to the carb.

It also absolutely stinks of petrol while I’m cranking it but there aren’t any fuel leaks. If anyone has any ideas I’d very much appreciate it. Cheers

I am looking to purchase a classic VW van for my local business which will include transporting goods around my town plus country roads & some motorway possibly. I have already heard all of the comments about how a classic daily van will require maintenance and upkeep and be slower than modern vans etc. My mind has been made up that it will be an older panel van. I have driven classics and kit cars all my life so I know what to expect (headaches haha).

So with that out of the way, from what I understand the t25 is light years ahead of the t2 when it comes to safety, drivability, reliability and handling. Plus, they are more often cheaper and can have upgraded engines (sacrilege I know but practicality might necessitate this). However, for me at least, the t2 is certainly the prettier vehicle. I know it's a superficial thing but if the vehicle is going to be my 'brand ambassador' then this is important too. I'm just not sure that looks should come at the cost of everything else mentioned. Although I have seen some VW documents that suggest the 1973 onwards T2 has the Y formation chassis which vastly increases cab safety in the event of a collision.

Keep in mind I am looking for a panel van for transporting, not a camper, so it will be more of a work horse.

I would love to hear some opinions.

TL:DR - VW T2 vs T25 pros and cons for a regular use panel van?

Hi, I'm looking for a couple of new brushes for the alternator in my 912. I shop nearby sells brushes for early beetles, buses and the ghia. Do they fit the 912 as well? Thanks