/r/alpinism

Photograph via snooOG

Alpinism is a style of mountaineering which focuses on "light and fast" climbs using few camps and limited equipment. This is in contrast to "expedition-style" climbs where numerous camps are set up, larger amounts of gear are brought in, and ropes are sometimes fixed.

There is no strict rule in this subreddit as to the type of content allowed. Stories about expeditions on Denali or Everest are fine. Questions from n00bs about how to start out in the sport or what kind of gear is best are fine as well.

Be civil to each other, don't spam, and have fun!

If you have suggestions regarding the content and direction of the subreddit, drop a comment in here perhaps.

For other outdoor activities, see:

New Pacific NorthWest Discord! Link to Join

r/climbing <-Vertical Hiking

r/iceclimbing <- Ice Climbing

r/climbingporn <- Climbing Porn [SFW]

r/trailguides <- Looking for beta on trails? Check this out.

r/campingandHiking <-Camping and Hiking tips, trip reports & stories, and news.

r/outdoors <-R/Outdoors

r/outdoorsgear <-Discussions about gear for your adventures

r/slackline <-Work on the balance and core strength - very fun

r/meditation <-Clear your mind

r/TrailMeals <-What's in your stomach?

r/BuschCraft <- Creativity and ingenuity for survival in the backcountry.

/r/alpinism

80,262 Subscribers

3

Lincoln Peak - X Couloir TR

0 Comments
2024/05/14
18:00 UTC

23

Did you lose an ice axe on Mt Hood?

This worked last time, why do I keep finding gear on Hood/Wy'East?

If you lost an ice axe sometime since the last snowstorm, and can send me a dm or chat describing the axe, and distinguishing features, and vaguely what you were doing/where you were on the mtn when you lost it, I can meet you at the MAX stop near where I work and return it to you. (If you're not local, sorry.) No finders fee or anything, just don't make me work to return it.

0 Comments
2024/05/14
04:23 UTC

2

Long Tent Recommendations for Tall people

Does anyone have recommendations for a 2p 4S Alpine tent that is at least 85"(215cm) long? Ideally looking for a freestanding tent, but coming around to a tarp.

My backpacking tent is a BA Copper Spur HV UL 3. And at 90" is just enough so I don't have my toes or head pushing into the walls. (Edit: and on the note, the Copper Spur Expedition 2 is a leading contender, and maybe the MH Outpost 2 if I can find one)

Thanks

7 Comments
2024/05/13
16:02 UTC

0

Best shoes for Trail and Snow travel?

I’m looking to pick up some hiking shoes with better traction for a San Gorgonio accent this upcoming weekend. I did Cactus 2 Clouds last weekend in some older sneakers and hiked through significant snow to reach the summit. Looking to get some shoes with better tread and a high ankle maybe to keep the snow out. I have a pair of Altra LPs that I could strap some gaiters to, but was wondering if anyone had other suggestions. I’ve heard good things about the Topo trailventure 2 ($100 Amazon). Should I go for something like that or would my LPs with the gaiters cut it? Also looking at the LP mid hikers.

1 Comment
2024/05/13
15:31 UTC

3

Thoughts on bivvy bags for 2 days expeditions?

Hello,

I'm getting a bit sick of having a heavy ass backpack when doing 2 days expeditions (both winter and summer), so I'm trying to lighten my pack.

Usually, I take too much security gear that I don't use but I don't feel confortable getting rid of it (Escaper, 3 Pitons, small diameter 5m rope, 1 quicklink). By it for goulottes/trad/arêtes, they don't leave my pack.

But for the sleeping gear, my girlfriend and I have a rather heavy but comfortable tent (2.7kg I guess?) and I think we could cut some weight here. The prices of ultra lightweight tents are stupidly high and we are not planning on changing the tent. Moreover, where I'm based, refuges are neither big nor comfortable so we prefer to bring a tent.

Hence, I was looking at the bivvy bags.

But I never tried it, so I don't know if it's usual to have one and sleep in one in alpinism expeditions? And there are so many kinds, for winter expeditions, are an "extreme" one, such as the one from samaya mandatory?

I'm based in Pyrénées mountain range, so the nights are not exceedingly cold but can still be up to - 20/25°c.

Thank you for your insights!

6 Comments
2024/05/12
19:32 UTC

137

Alpinists at L'Aigulle du Midi Montblanc

4 Comments
2024/05/12
13:48 UTC

4

New Mountain Podcast: Peak Season

The Peak Season Podcast is a Mountain Bureau LLC Production, based in the North Cascade Mountains. Join your Host, Steffan Gregory and Founder Mark Allen for an interview based podcast. This program will feature a line up of guests who have influenced mountain craft or have made significant contributions to our mountain culture. Listen in to our archive of the world’s most interesting and influential mountain characters.

The Peak Season Podcast can be found at www.mountainbureau.com or wherever you get your podcasts or subscribe on Spotify.

Enjoy!

https://www.mountainbureau.com/peak-season-podcast

1 Comment
2024/05/12
04:29 UTC

0

hiking partner

my friend and I are planning to go to Mount Shasta over the Memorial Day weekend. It is gonna be our first time alpine climbing, so we’d appreciate some guidance from more experienced climbers, especially we are gonna use ice axe, crampons for the first time. we both have done Whitney (99 switch backs) with relative easy (day hike) and we are marathon runners. thanks for reading!

6 Comments
2024/05/11
22:53 UTC

31

Anyone know what the peak just right of center is? (AK range)

8 Comments
2024/05/10
13:57 UTC

0

Island/Mera Peak guide recommendation?

I'd like to do the EBC this year, and thinking about maybe climbing one of the "easier" peaks there, Island or Mera. Any guide recommendations please? Past experience is Kilimanjaro.

2 Comments
2024/05/09
16:27 UTC

63

At Everest base camp, April 2024

6 Comments
2024/05/09
13:27 UTC

44

American IFMGA guide seeking students that value mentorship

https://preview.redd.it/x144v7rt9czc1.jpg?width=3869&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f1ef368b9895ab493035f534fb454675bc79a66e

My name is Mark Allen and I run a small shop called the Mountain Bureau based in the North Cascades of Washington State. I also work in Alaska, Peru, Canada, Norway and the Alps. I have come to learn that I really enjoy working with individuals or teams that want to progress in higher level alpinism. I have been a professional guide for 25-years and you can find my bio on my site https://www.mountainbureau.com

I'm currently forming a mentorship program and am gauging interest. I'm gearing up for a big season in the Cascades and then plan to work with several clients in the Alps this summer. If ticking off a peak of your dreams in high on the list, we can do that to. I base out of The North Cascades and Zermatt for the summer and finish on the Dolomites as the Alps get dry late season, then final summer days in the North Cascades.

I get a lot from sharing my craft. I've been climbing for over 35 years in the alpine and want to share this gift with you. Drop me a line. I'm looking forward the connection.

35 Comments
2024/05/09
05:50 UTC

9

Which alpine equipment to bring on an international flight?

As the title says, I’m flying to Chile, this is my first international flight so I’m not so savvy with picking for an aeroplane, I don’t have plans but I like to keep options open and would like to possibly climb some volcanoes while I’m there perhaps.

Would you bring alpine gear on an international flight? Or just count on hiring? I reckon you can be much more spontaneous and free with your planning if you have your own gear. How would you go about bringing it? Ice axe, crampons and helmet (without getting crushed)? I’m figuring camping gear will need to be left behind.

Any help here will be much appreciated, cheers :)

4 Comments
2024/05/09
01:35 UTC

12

What are some good treks to start with in Pakistan (aspire to climb harder 7-8000ers in 12-14 years time)

Basically the title, I truly want to conquer the Karakoram. I want to climb all the K's; K1,K2, K3a, K7 etc. These are all very very hard to climb and some of these have only like 15 successful summits. I am a city person all my life, never trekked, never hiked. I know that I need to start trekking for the next four years (I am 18) and attend climbing courses then build a rapport of easier 5-6-7000ers before even thinking about easier 8000ers like Broad Peak in my late 20s to early 30s.

16 Comments
2024/05/08
22:11 UTC

10

Try and fail - Your favourite piece of gear, clothing or hack

There's loads of general advice out there on "best X for Y", but there are the little things that you figure out over time. Small things, that just become indispensable in your days out in the mountains, and you really wonder how you managed so long without.

It would be great to hear a bit what those "little things" are that work for you, and how they made your life better (or more bearable).

28 Comments
2024/05/08
19:18 UTC

7

Snow conditions in the Dolomites

Hello everyone

I'm planning a trip to the Dolomites in early June to do some hiking and via Ferratas. It's still pretty early in the season so I know there's gonna be some snow higher up, but I would like to know if someone has experience doing some of the higher via Ferratas at this time of the year.

I'm gonna bring cramps and an ice axe if I need to cross some snow section, but since I'll be going on my own and probably won't bring a rope I don't want to do anything too sketchy.

Any advice would be appreciated, thank you.

6 Comments
2024/05/08
14:54 UTC

11

Looking for a partner for Zermatt/Chamonix in mid-July

Looking to link up for alpine routes in the Zermatt and/or Chamonix areas!

I'll be in the Saas valley for mountaineering from June 29-June 6/7 and am looking for a partner (or group?) for the two weeks through July 20/21)

I have experience leading alpine routes rated PD+/AD- and have followed up to D/D+. In general, I'm fine with snow to ~55 degrees, exposure, etc.

I'm not as experienced of a rock climber so none of the routes I'm looking to do have climbing moves harder than UIAA III (not incl. Dent du Geant b/c fixed ropes). Most of my climbing these days is indoors where I can climb 6a on lead and 6b+ on top rope. I don't think of myself as a particularly great climber so I'm fine leading easier pitches or following if there's a rock route that's interesting

In terms of altitude experience, I've been to 6400m and that was fine plus I'll spend the week prior doing PD/PD+ stuff between 4000-4500m so I think I'll be well acclimatized

On to the fun stuff! I have some tentative plans but things on my objective list include (but aren't limited to!):

Zermatt area:

  • SW ridge of Pollux (PD+, III rock)

  • WNW flank aka Swiss normal route of Castor (PD+)

  • Lyskamm traverse (AD)

  • Traverse of the Tops (PD)

  • Zumsteinspitze to Dufourspitze traverse (AD, III)

Note that all of these can be combined in an epic traverse. Pollux and Castor can be climbed individually as day trips.

I'm also open to most of the normal routes in the Mischabel group so happy to discuss those

Chamonix area:

  • Mont Blanc via the Trois Monts or Aiguilles Grises. Could potentially be convinced on the Royal Traverse

  • Dent du Geant SW face aka normal route (AD, IV)

  • Aiguille Rochefort W Ridge (AD)

I'm a bit wary of the other 4000m+ peaks in the area (e.g., GJ, Les Droites) at my experience level but I'm open to various single day routes on whichever aiguille or ridge

If you're looking for a partner and have some similar interests, let's discuss! Thanks!

8 Comments
2024/05/07
21:59 UTC

3

A question about boots and heel space

Hi kids,

I’ve been struggling to find the right boot fit for my big boots. I’ve either found boots that are too big everywhere or found boots that are tight around the toes.

I’ve finally found a boot that feels great length wise and around the toe box (Scarpa Zodiac Tech) but for the first time I’m noticing that the heel has a little space at the sides and I’m noticing that I get a little heel lift when stepping in them.

Should I be worried about them not fitting too snug at the sides of the heel? And also, I’m thinking my foot is more flexible than a B1/B2 boot so is a little heel lift expected or have I just not found the right fit?

Sorry for the boring and mundane question but it’s hard to get this right and the people I’m speaking with in the various shops I’ve been too don’t really seem to be very informative.

Any advice welcome. Thanks guys.

7 Comments
2024/05/05
22:32 UTC

0

Hiking recommendations in Alps

Hello,

Last summer, I had my first hiking experience. We hiked to the highest mountain in Germany: Zugspitze via Reintal valley. This route was not very technical expect maybe the last summit section.

Currently,I don't have experience using via ferrata or the technical knowledge and skills required to do glacier crossings.

This summer, could any of you please make some suggestions that are similar to Zugspitze hike via Reintal valley which had no via ferrata sections or glacier crossings. I live in Germany, I am not from any of the countries with the Alps, so I have limited knowledge on deciding my next hike.

Thanks for your help.

9 Comments
2024/05/04
23:13 UTC

1

Lift wanted - London to Chamonix mid-June

0 Comments
2024/05/04
20:14 UTC

2

Backpack intended for general use and alpinism, volume?

I’ve started a summer alpinism course and I have gotten the advice to buy an Osprey 38L ice climbing specific alpinism backpack.

But I’d rather get a bag that isn’t limited to 1 activity, especially if I’m not sure I want to continue with the hobby after the course. I don’t live near mountains and don’t see myself going alpine climbing every year.

That said, I have a 9L backpack, which I use daily and carry for up to 3 day city trips. I have a 60L backpack, which I use for hiking and camping. I also lent a 28L backpack which was plenty for a couple of weeks in asia, hiking and sleeping in hostels. I like to travel light and compact.

So I would like to buy a bag that is acceptable for summer alpinism, but can also be used for other purposes. We will start our alpine climb every day from a mountain hut or refuge and will only carry essentials. Of course we also need to get to the hut. I am not sure of the size though but I am thinking something around 30-35L. Can a 33L backpack suffice for alpinism? Because I might get an Osprey Talon 33. I would preferably use it as cabin baggage and not as check-in.

22 Comments
2024/05/03
21:13 UTC

2

Georgia, Country - Best tour operators for a Kazbek climb? (2025 )

Hi all,

We're a team of two french climbers, aged 24 who aim to climb Mt Kazbek next year. We were supposed to this year but it has been delayed. It'll give us a year of properly preparing. We're seasoned, climbed Mont Blanc last year and train regularly. Two friends, one from Germany and the other from the UK may join us on our ascent.

As such, I was looking for the best tour operators, thinking it'd be a safer bet than attempting a solo climb, we lack the expertise to do so I think.

As such, I wondered if anyone attempted the climb and could recommend a tour operator? We have quite a few shortlisted (Alpinism Project, Wild Guru, Explore Share....)

Thank you!

3 Comments
2024/05/03
10:13 UTC

3

Any suggestions for a first pair of crampons?

Hi, I've done three seasons of climbing and now its time to get my own crampons. Looking at my next trip(s) I need some 12-pointer, classic / technical , steel, preferably lightweight crampons. Strap on system doesn't really matter as my boots can do all of them.

My next climb is Ortler in South Tirol, Italy. Some mixed climbing, with quite steep ice and a snow plat on top. Looking to climb Mont Blanc, Matternhorn whenever I am ready for it.

When looking around in shops and on the internet I came across:

  • Petzl Vasak

  • Blue Ice Harfang Alpine.

Now just looking if people have suggestions or have any experience with these two mentioned crampons.

14 Comments
2024/05/02
10:55 UTC

0

Via Ferrata In La Drome, France

Hi Everyone, I will be visiting La Drome in France and Olargue outside of Montpelliers for two weeks (one in each) in June. I was told that there are lots of via ferrata routes out in the Drome but I haven't really been able to find much on the internet as to where these via ferratas are located. I have my own climbing helmet, sling & locker, and harness and was wondering if I should even invest in getting my own Via Ferrata Sling given that once I'm back in the States, there won't be much of an opportunity to use them.

3 Comments
2024/05/01
14:00 UTC

6

Climbing after ACL Reconstruction

I tore my ACL in January while I was skiing. I got it reconstructed in the beginning of April with a hamstring autograft. Does anyone have experience with climbing/mountaineering after an ACL reconstruction? How long did it take to get back to climbing?

10 Comments
2024/05/01
05:50 UTC

5

Training Club - Week 18 - 29 April, 2024

Join us here to track and update us on your training progress.

About Training Club

A lot of people on r/alpinism train systematically using TFTNA or other approaches. In order to stay motivated and work towards goals, it's useful to share your progress or discuss obstacles; to celebrate your achievements or learn from your failures; and to share knowledge widely about training for the mountains.

New to these training concepts? Uphill Athlete has a condensed explanation: https://www.uphillathlete.com/training-for-mountaineering/

Also recommend:

Members

A weekly thread will be posted every Monday - if it's Monday and it isn't posted yet, feel free to take the initiative! Those who are regularly training can post an update on their progress, and anyone who wants to contribute or ask questions is welcome to. I suggest we should follow an approximate format of:

What did you do this week? This is best itemized into days of the week, but you don't have to. As much detail as you feel is necessary.

What are you planning to do next week? This doesn't necessarily have to be itemised into days, but just a rough list of the training you plan to do.

What are your Short Term, Medium Term, and Long Term Goals? This will help to keep you on track. What are the STG you'd like to achieve in, say, the next month? What are the MTG (say, next 3-6 months) that these will feed into? What are the LTG (12+ months) that your training plan is helping you work towards? These should be SMART: Specific, Measurable, Attainable, Relevant and Time-bound. The more specific you can be, the more motivated you will be to train.

Some Notes

Posting consistently in Training Club will keep you accountable and provide a useful log of your training journey, so aim to post every week, irrespective of whether you achieved what you set out to achieve.

Anyone who wants to get involved is welcome to. It doesn't matter whether you're making your first forays into the alpine, or whether you're a seasoned expedition veteran. Training is training, and this is a community that's supportive of all the different facets of alpinism.

If you have any suggestions for improvements, changes in format, tips for other users, questions, comments etc. etc. then post them! If you see an opportunity to make things better, if you've got a question about training, or you want to chat with other participants about their activity/goals, then post it up in here!

First time contributors should give a short introduction. Happy to keep it anonymous, but it'd be useful to know a little bit about your background, where you're based, how long you've been climbing in the alpine, and what you're psyched for.

8 Comments
2024/04/30
14:01 UTC

1

For those who have climbed in Nepal, what was your most memorable summit and why?

For those who have climbed in Nepal, what was your most memorable summit and why?

11 Comments
2024/04/29
03:54 UTC

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