I am exploring creating a bluetooth tracker by inserting a deconstructed AirTag circuit board into a 3mm enclosure shaped like credit card.

Since it will be inserted into wallets I want to avoid standard li-ion chemistry in favor of LFP chemistry for safety reasons. Such a solution (even if it never leaves the prototyping stage) must be safe in the event of puncture or folding.

At first I was considering a design using multiple CR2032 button cells but I believe a lithium ion battery would be much more efficient leading to probably approaching 10 years of battery life (considering one CR2032 can provide one year).

My question is do any such extremely thin LFP cells exist, produced at scale, in the industry?

Is LiPo even possible in LFP form while retaining the LFP chemistry benefits?

i picked up a battery pack from the junkyard (from and industrial ups) and i wondered what the hell is this.I cut the by 8 cells.

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I've painstakingly filled a matrix with the estimated battery wear levels of all combinations between from [25%-99%] and to [50%-100%], as shown by AccuBattery for my phone (partial charge cycles seem to lead to partial wear cycles, so we could optimize our life style to improve overall battery health/life).

I've also configured for myself a couple of LlamaLabs Automate flows:

• one polls every minute or so the battery level and updates a persistent notification, indicating up to what level I should charge my phone from the current level
  • not using this one anymore for now, it felt a little too intrusive
• the other reacts to the phone being charged:
  • when plugged to charging, it shows a notification indicating the levels I should consider for charging the phone
  • when unplugged from charging, it hides the notification

I was thinking I could organize the information in a research paper like format and then publish it - here or in any online resource of such kind.

I do not want to do it just for the lols. If my understanding of the matter is correct, I only want that information to end up present online somewhere that's sufficiently visible and where it could get some level of authority, strictly due to the correct understanding of the matter.

As in, I'd anyway put a post here (either in r/LithiumIon or in r/batteries) with my findings, Automate flows and associated files, as I'd want them (the conclusions) reviewed by the community and I'd want to better my knowledge / get educated if so needed.

That said, such a post remains a social media resource, which will either sink under many other posts or just not get the visibility I hope it'd deserve (again, depending on its merit).
But... would that be pseudo-science (publishing it in that format and maybe in any online journal)? or would that be a reasonably relevant piece of info?

As in, I'd state one should charge their phone a certain way, as a rule to maximize their battery life. I do not want to mislead anyone.

I’m looking to subscribe to newsletters about the lithium, batteries, and electric vehicle industries. I’m particularly interested in sources focused on South America, but I’m open to any recommendations. Thank you!

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Hi all, I had a question on safely storing lithium-ion batteries in a vehicle. Earlier this year I purchased two of these to keep in the trunks of my two vehicles for emergencies. The case that comes with them is not anything safety/fire resistant rated as far as I can tell from looking at it. Should I be concerned about a fire hazard with these? I see a lot of soft sided cases online that claim to be fire resistant for storing lithium-ion batteries, anyone have experience with those cases able to offer recommendations?

Hello everyone, was curious about something and couldn't find proper answer

Recently i saw a LinkedIn post from fellten CEO about arrival battery modules (with specs 400V and 3kwh capacity) they had 16 of these in the van connected in parallel, in the post comments i saw many of them comment on how complex the design is , needing individual bms contactors etc etc which i couldn't wrap my head around. I feel this is a good arrangement as they can add as many modules in parallel to get desired current output without needing to redesign and entire pack for a different drivetrain config

Like in case of lucid they use 36.3V (10s 30p)modules where the base air has 18 or so modules and 22 in sapphire which means they might have a slightly different voltage rating . In case of arrival they can keep the voltage constant throughout different configurations which i feel is an advantage

and as for expenses wouldn't a scale production of these modules make them cheaper as they will be producing 10s of modules per vehicle compared to 1 complete pack for 1 vehicle which might reduce the cost of the complex bms(as mentioned as a con in comments)

Another con mentioned is needing precharge circuit and contactors which consume energy, cant this be solved by reserving 1 module for this? But i also feel that since the current is small (10-15amp) wouldn't the energy needed be lower as well? Another con would be since its high voltage handling will need protection which even 8 agree with

This has been itching my brain for some time now and i wanted the members opinion on this battery config like is it bad or good ,what could be made better etc. iam a not well informed in this topic and any info and opinions would be much appreciated

I was keeping a camera dev board with a 420 mA LiPo battery I didn't trust in the oven because it seemed like the best place for it to be in case it got hot. I always remembered to remove it before I used the oven. Until tonight. I baked it at 400 F preheating for a pizza. Then I put it in a bag surrounded by clay oil absorbent, double bagged it and put it on top of a baking stone in my Weber Grill. Is that enough of a safeguard for the baked battery? I'm going to go out and move the grill farther from the house in a minute. And get a better containment system for suspect batteries going forward.

I made a lithium ion battery for an ultima LCD 
 2KVA EURO ups The battery was as follows: 30 cell bak high drain 4.2 v 3 A 5. The batteries were placed in 5 columns and 6 rows and nickel tape was used for spot welding. The problem is that in a few seconds, not more than a minute, the battery gets extremely hot and smoke begins to appear. Please explain the error

Hello, I am interested in building a lithium ion battery pack for a custom application where there are > 1 strings in parallel. I am curious how one would wire the cell balancing leads?

Does each string have its own load balancing leads?

(It seems that if you were to connect the leads across cells in each string then current would flow between them which is also not really valid.)

Thanks!

I bought this battery for an electric go kart project, I got it from a buddy who owned it for a short time before upgrading, when I try to charge it though it emits a loud buzz when connected to the battery. I asked my buddy about it he said he figures it's just the fan but upon taking it apart l've seen that the fan does not cause this noise and it sounds like it's coming from the transformer. Additionally, when I tried charging it in the house the frequency being admitted caused very amounts of static background interference with my speakers I had set up on my desk. Is concerned about? This group does not allow me to attach the video but it is very evident that there is interference with the speakers coming from the charger when the batteries this group does not allow me to attach the video but it is very evident that there is interference with the speakers coming from the charger when the battery is connected

I'm looking for insights into the operational challenges of battery systems. Whether you're in automotive, consumer electronics, or another field, what issues do you regularly encounter in the operation and maintenance of battery systems? How do these challenges impact your work and what steps do you take to address them?

The batteries in my speakers were extra spicy pillows so I bought replacements on eBay. I put the first one in and there were just three bare pins and I had to guess which way the connection went. On the second speaker there was a plastic housing around those 3 pins that only allowed the connection to go one way which made me realise the first one was the wrong way round. The led was blinking red so I am hoping that means it detected the error but is it possible I damaged the first one in those few minutes it was connected the wrong way round?

I just did a full charge test and the speaker I initially connected incorrectly actually lasted a little bit longer than correct one so I am hoping the speaker had some sort of incorrect polarity protection or I didn't have it wired backwards long enough for it to cause any damage to the battery.

Hello, I’m new to li-on batteries. I have a decent understanding of lipo batteries I use them for fpv. I got a 3s lion for my goggles. It’s an auline 4800mah. It has 21700 cells, went to charge at 2.4 amps today and cell 1 has 50 ohms resistance and the others have 25. Is this something to be concerned about? It would concern me with a standard lipo

I'm searching for a Group 49 /H8 size 12V 100Ah LiFePO4 Lithium Battery.

Group 49 /H8 is 354 x 175 x 190mm or 13 15/16 " x 6 7/8" x 7 1/2 tall"

Countless hours with no luck finding a battery less than 7.5 inches tall. AOlithium used to sell this battery.

Infinite thanks to anyone with a find.

Lurker posting. Out of ideas and can't find an answer. So... I bought a crave 360 new. Lasted forever (last summer). Then it wouldn't take a charge. So... disassembled it to look. No luck. went on Amazon and bought two like new units with bases. Two units arrived with no charge bases. So the issue was the base. So I bought an insignia power supply adapter that can do 12v at up to 3k mAh. No dice. There are two boards in the charge base. I would like to know if there is a way to bypass the boards. If it helps I shattered the original to see what goes where and was careful with the base. And I refuse to spend $700 for a Sonos when I have two good speakers and a set of parts haha. Anything is appreciated. Been doing this on and off for 6mo now. Can send pics and specs if needed. (I'm not sending too much to the lithium ion battery pack)

I have a couple non operational 60v dewalt tool batteries, one of which I’m pretty sure is just unbalanced. I’m looking for a safe way that requires the least amount of purchasing, to balance this battery.
My understanding is I can unsolder all the cells from the bms and wire them in parallel. And they should after enough time balance themselves? Or would I need to add a trickle charge to that contraption? Sorry if this is already covered on here. I’ll take any help I can get.

Check out this blog. Some great info for those wanting to learn more

https://li-ionsafecanada.blogspot.com

How can I procure spodumene ores from these countries?

Can trader buy spodumene ores from Australia if yes then how?

Australia Argentina Africa Nigeria

I had some time today and I decided to quickly look into if I should let my lithium ion batteries discharge more or keep them topped off. I've read a few sources with actual data (which my academic background loves). My issue is as follows:

I've seen that a lower degree of discharge, for example 100%-70% rather than 100%-10% allows for many many more cycles before battery health goes down.

The problem here is that all graphs and data I found only compare cycles and degree of discharge without any normalization to output. Such as "total usage time" or some more meaningful measurement for the consumer. Meaning, if the above battery (100-70) gave me 3x the cycles of the 100-10 one, isn't that expected since I'm draining it 1/3 as much? And if it's a cell phone or game controller I'm both instances I'm getting 10k hours of use there is no difference.

Is there any data out there that shows a less degree of discharge allows for more total energy output or usage? Something like "Discharging to 25% compared to 75% resulted in a 34% increase in total device running time for the lifespan on the battery. Of note, a battery was considered no longer viable when it could only hold 40% of the original charge." Or whatever would be an appropriate metric for a battery lifespan.

If so, I'd be elated to have it linked here, or even explained. Thank you very much in advance!!!