So I’ve been looking into buying a foxbody v6 since they’re usually less modded and destroyed compared to the v8s. Anyways, would it be worth it to have as a daily driver? I don’t wanna do any mods (other than exhaust). Looking at some under 2k as a side car but something fun to have. Also I love the early ones look unlike most people, any issues with the earlier foxbodies?

Hey, could use some direction, have an 85 GT Hatch and have a FORD factory 140 MPH speedo in box part M-17255-B ,wondering if this head is simply plugging and play or do I require some modifications to be sure that I am 'close' in accurate speed and odo ,,,,, Thanks

Quick context: I’m 98% certain my ECM is bad. I attempted replacing its capacitors, but the issue (no start, fuel pump doesn’t stop running) is the same after the ‘fix’ as it was before. Probably need a new ECM.

But because I’m pissed and defeated, to troubleshoot I swapped in a new fuel pump relay after reading through some forum posts, etc. But with the new relay, the fuel pump doesn’t come on at all and I can’t figure out why that would be, or if it’s in any way helpful information.

Insights, experience, guesses welcome. I’m confused.

So I bought a manual 1989 foxbody mustang GT. The car turns on and looks like it runs fine (I’m learning to drive a stick shift).

Got a hold of an OBD-1 scanner and the codes are:

• 10: "Cylinder #1 has a problem".
• 34-c: "Insufficient EGR flow or EVP voltage high (SONIC) or PFE sensor voltage high or out of specification".
• 96-c: "Fuel pump secondary circuit fault / high speed fuel pump relay open".
• 79-o: "Air Conditioner "ON" during Self-Test / defrost on".

What do these codes mean? Is it bad? A pending doom?

I don't know much about cars, but i am eager to learn and make this a new hobby. I'll take any suggestion and help. Thanks!!

Can anyone take a picture of how their hood to hinge bolts on?

I’m buying a bolt kit and it comes with hood speed nuts and I’m trying to see what it looks like mounted so I won’t go in on the install blind. Would like to have an idea of what things look like bolted up

I have no hood on currently.

I have a 1987 Fox mustang GT 5-speed. Around 10 years ago I had to replace the ECU and found out that the motor was actually from a 93 Fox GT5 speed with California emissions.

I have fried another one.

Trying to find a new brain for this old pig

Part numbers that I can read are 12a650-d24a

I'm wondering if anybody can tell me which ECU would end up working as a direct part number lookup hasn't yielded much luck.

Many thanks I'm advance.

I narrowed down a a few issues to bad ECM capacitors, which I intend to repair myself. If (probably when) it doesn’t work, I’m not sure if I’d send mine for a repair or purchase a new or refurbished unit. Budget is only kinda flexible: $300-$400.

Looking for advice/recs from any folks who have dealt with ECM issues lately, as I know is products are occasionally updated. Please let me know if you have any questions.

Thanks!

I’m trying to install motion raceworks columns however I’m also replacing rag joint with double d u joint. I tired the V joint from motion ranceworks and 9/16 and they are not too small. Any ideas of what I have?

died on me yesterday and it started today but died. Opened up the IAC and it has oil hopefully it’s just that

I’m installing a new clutch cable on my 90 fox, also replacing the stock plastic quadrant with an aluminum one, question I have is do I need to put the stock springs in place? I’ve watched a dozen videos and they haven’t specified thanks!!

I have a 1990 gt 5.0, went to local auto store and picked up new spark plugs. They gave me motorcraft plugs and came home and they don’t fit, I looked up the spark plugs myself and they are the right ones for the car, any way I can tell if the heads are aftermarket

Full MM catalog, gen2 coyote, tr3650 trans (2 of them). Built rearend, kirkey seat, ton of stuff.

So I have a 89 2.3 I use as a daily, the other day on the way to work I stopped at the gas station and when I got back in the car it wouldn’t start anymore. Got the car home instant used a screwdriver on a spark plug wire and no spark. So then I popped off my ignition coil cover and I noticed it had exploded, my next step was to replace the bad coil with a spare I had and still, no spark…. With KEY ON I get 12v to the Red/Ltgreen wire and 4v to the DKGreen/yellow wire on the coil plug. I also ohm tested the coil NEG and POS = .8 ohm NEG and Spark terminal on coil = 8.97k ohm POS and Spark terminal on coil = 8.79k ohm

I’m completely lost any help would be greatly appreciated.

okay so i have a 1993 mustang lx, my problem is my headlights and taillights turn on but my interior lights ( instrument cluster and ac) will not turn on what so ever. i have replaced the fuses, replaced the headlight switch and the dimmer switch. any idea what could be causing the issue?

1986 mustang gt the ole 4eye fox are the fender spats in front of the wheel the same as 87 to 93 lx spats since they seem to be made of unobtanium

Question for those who did the sn95 rear axle + disc brake swap. Regarding the e-brake function inside the caliper.

Got everything hooked up. But the e-brake on the driver side doesnt work. I can pull the e brake lever on the caliper al the way but it wont make the e brake connect with the disc. When i brake using the pedal the caliper does work and has stopping power, so i know the piston is able to move freely inside the caliper

I refurbished the rear calipers using new seals and new pistons ( old ones had some minor rust pitting). So i had the pistons out at one point, and when i put them back together i used the tool to screw them back in over the screw inside the caliper. I figured i did not have to adjust anything and just screwed the back in as far as i could. Assuming it would adjust it self after breaking a couple of times. I have just finished al the lines, filled and bled the entire brake system. The only time it seems to work somewhat is when i have the car running, push the brakes and then apply the e brake. However, it wont hold after i let go of the brake pedal. To be clear, it does work on the passenger side.

Is the solution as easy as removing the disc and pads and turning the piston a couple turns out? Or is the problem more complicated?

Thanks in advance!

Guy wants to trade me a svo 85 with 89k original miles car was sitting some rust on the doors and rough paint but other than that looks clean bigger turbo and stuff to go with it what do you guys think it’s worth they seem rare from what I can find 5 k made

Hey, hope this is allowed, I'm new to reddit. If not either take it down or let me know and I will! But I have about 40/50 foxbodys, wanting to start parting them out. Not looking to sell shells or rollers. But have more parts than I know what to do with. If you are looking for anything hit me up! Photo of my car for attention. Thank you!

I bought the AC conversion kit from LMR for my mustang 2 years ago, and it never worked. I have had to rebuy the compressor twice already, and yet again, it is a dud.

This time, the compressor itself works, but the clutch doesn't. It will either only move partially, or won't disengage.

To explain by what I mean by partially, one half of the clutch will stay engaged at all times, and the other will move normally, in a tilting motion. Essentially the clutch goes from this angle: / to | and then back to /. Never fully disengages, and as such, causes the AC to stay on when it shouldn't, causing the car to stall/stutter when it disengages and blowing the fuse each time.

I took the clutch and pulley off, made sure there was no jams or anything, put it back on, and now it won't disengage. It will only engage. I have to manually pull the clutch backwards with my fingers when the engine is turned off.

Its getting ridiculous, and LMR does not sell the clutch all by itself. I asked, they offered an OEM replacement only, and do not sell the clutch for the conversion kit alone, and I can't find it by searching any part numbers on it either.

Does anyone have any recommendations? I even tried searching for the whole compressor part number on CJ Pony Parts and other auto part distributors, such as O'Rileys and AutoZone, just to see if they had the part number for the clutch, but to no avail. (The part number for the full compressor, according to my order history on LMR, is LRS-19703A

I did ask this in several locations, so if you see a duplicate question in other locations, I apologize.