/r/AAMasterRace
Future-proof your life. If you use only AA batteries and you want 3 spares, you only need 3 spares. With 5 different batteries, you need 15 spares plus chargers. With AA you can carry it all in your pocket. AA-compatible devices can include AAA, AAAA, C, D, F, 14500, 18650, 21700, 26650, 32600, 32650, etc. Right to repair was first lost from tolerating proprietary batteries, pay per charge, and self-destruct explosions. To regain right to repair, you need the right to put in standard batteries.
Future-proof your life. If you use only AA batteries and you want 3 spares, you only need 3 spares. With 5 different batteries, you need 15 spares plus chargers. With AA you can carry it all in your pocket. AA-compatible devices can include AAA, AAAA, C, D, F, 14500, 18650, 21700, 26650, 32600, 32650, etc. Right to repair was first lost from tolerating proprietary batteries, pay per charge, and self-destruct explosions. To regain right to repair, you need the right to put in standard batteries.
Be a helpful representative of the AA Master Race. Answer questions, share information, give advice, and say "welcome" to those who convert to the AA Master Race.
You can use Feed Notifier for timely notifications of new activity on RSS feeds. You can also chat about AA batteries in Freenode ##prepping and ##flashlight on the Freenode IRC network. Be sure to mention you joined from Reddit.
What kind of devices support AA battery power? Well-designed, efficient ones. AA batteries are a repeating pattern for successful devices in the history of technology. That's why "the first successful" and "most popular" devices are always engineered to be powered by AA batteries:
AA battery compatibility leads to portability, and together they lead to greater capability combined with lower cost - a formula for success. If you want to climb a mountain, you have go up. No other direction leads to the top. It's a simple formula that keeps succeeding, over and over and over again.
In other words, if you're not sticking to a successful formula, you're less likely to be successful. AA batteries are the Master Race because they're successful.
Everyone can agree the notion of a "master race" deserves mockery at every opportunity. Mocking terrible things takes away their power. Don't worry, AA batteries are inanimate objects, and they're not really trying to take over the world. Master races of lifeless objects are a common humorous internet meme, started by r/pcmasterrace in 2001.
More info:
/r/AAMasterRace
My girlfriend has a bunch of AA/AAA Amazon rechargeable batteries, so I recently bought the Panasonic BQ-CC55 charger and have been really happy with it. But since I needed more charging ports, I picked up the BQ-CC63. Was that a good choice, or is there a better charger out there I should consider? Thanks for any advice!
In this video and article below, TechTest test 1.5V AA Li-ion batteries from XTAR, ANSMANN, Hixon, EBL and Delyeepow. To test these AA lithium batteries, he used the SkyRC MC3000 charger/test device. With it, he discharged the batteries with 0.1A, 0.4A and 1A.
There are results as below. More information in the test on Techtest website:
https://techtest.org/5x-lithium-aa-akkus-im-vergleich-xtar-ansmann-hixon-und-mehr-im-vergleich/
I have to spot weld strips to aa nimh batteries. Any suggestions on an affordable spot welder that works?
Replacing batteries in a Hotronic E4 power plus ski boot heater pack. The batteries are 2000mah flat tops. What is a good quality replacement? I heard Eneloop are really good but not sure if available in flat top. I did see Tenergy flat tops available. Are those good batteries? Any other suggestions?
Thanks
This is a review of the XTAR VX4 charger and XTAR Li-Ion batteries that I wrote recently. I compare it with my XTAR VC4SL which I've had for a year or so, charging my 2 dozen or so AA Eneloops and one dozen AAA Eneloops. TL/DR: XTAR VX4 is a much better charger for Eneloops than VC4SL, newer tech, better charge profiles, less battery heating. Also capable of charging 1.5 V Li-Ion rechargeable batteries, which are terrific for game console controllers and any device that runs through Eneloops quickly. HTH
Glad to share Diodek's sheet in which he shares different battery tests with links below. You will find tests of over 200 battery models, including weight measurement, capacity measurement for 3 different loads and more. Welcome to check detailed comparison of different AA, AAA, 9V, 21700 batteries...
I have a project I'm working on requires 2 AA batteries on PCB then overmolded. The material melts at 400F and the molding process takes approx 2 minutes. I'm sure the cooldown time is quite long as well.
How bad is that for the batteries? Will they explode?
Bit sus of amazon/fakes, I'm a novice here, just done a few hours of research and figured these are amongst the best options.
Considering Ladda just so wont get fake. Eneloop Pros are on sale on amazon but then I may get some chinese fakes.
Thoughts?
Update: Ladda 2450 + stenkol + £5 delivery = £18
Amazon: Eneloop Pro £11.02 (link maybe you can tell if legit) - link
Would need a charger if going Eneloops.
Would be nice to have a single device for pomodoros, meditation, and wake-up alarm. Any suggestions? Must have real buttons and must not be a phone.
I want some rechargeable batteries for my Quest 2 controllers, and the ones I currently have aren't the best. They seem to run out fairly quickly. I've read eneloop batteries are solid, but I don't know which pack to buy. I only need 4 AAs and a charger, but there're different charger options, and I'm not sure what I need.
There's the eneloop pro, the eneloop smartplus charger, and the basic usb charger. Which pack should I get? the smartplus scares me a little bit, because I'm worried the short charge cycle would shorten the lives of the batteries quicker. Is that true?
Or are there better third party chargers?
1.5V rechargeable Li-ion battery is an emerging battery, and there is no unified discharge rate. For this kind of battery, the energy of AA size is generally around 2000mWh-4000mWh, and the energy of AAA size is generally below 2000mWh. According to the testing experience of XTAR lab engineers, it is recommended to discharge AA batteries at 0.5A and AAA batteries at 0.2-0.3A for capacity testing.
When Admiral134 tested four XTAR AA 4150mWh (2500mAh) Li-ion batteries, he also found that 0.5A discharging provided the most accurate test results, closely matching the rated 2500mAh, with capacity fluctuation not exceeding 70mAh.
However, for ordinary users who do not have load machines or a capacity grading machines, there is a lack of household devices on the market for testing the capacity of these batteries. To address this issue, XTAR developed the first VX4 charger that can testing the capacity of 1.5V rechargeable lithium-ion battery. It uses a constant discharge current of 0.3A, effectively protecting battery life and providing accurate capacity testing results.
There are more information about how to choose the right discharge rate for different batteries capacity testing online: https://www.xtar.cc/news/how-to-choose-the-right-discharge-rate-for-battery-capacity-testing.html
One that has reviews show its accurate consistent and reliable. 4 or 8 cells. No fans. Under 60bucks. Not 1 cent more. If it charges too then the option to charge at 100-200mah is desired. I dont wan faster charhing
I got it from a broken emergency light in a warehouse, you can see that it was made in 2022 on the battery body. I am using it as a spare battery with my Sofirn SP10S flashlight as the flashlight can use 14500 cell or normal AA batteries, modern battery chargers still support NiCd battery so it's no problem charging it lol.
There are energy tests of different AA batteries by TechTest. If you are looking for some good AA batteries, check more information here:
https://techtest.org/xtar-aa-lithium-4150mwh-2500mah-akkus-im-test-die-besten-aa-akkus-auf-dem-markt-2024/
You may find there are different methods to label the nominal energy of 1.5V AA/AAA Li-ion batteries in the market. It's confusing sometime. To help you better understand and choose the right battery. We bought some rechargeable 1.5V AA/AAA Li-ion batteries from different reputable brands and tested them with the professional capacity grading machine in a standard lab environment. Based on these data, we summarized the four most common energy labeling methods. The specific analysis is as follows. And Please check more details on our website:
https://www.xtar.cc/news/understanding-the-energy-labeling-methodsof-1.5v-rechargeable-li-ion-batteries.html
I use a ZTS Mini-MBT tester that I bought many years ago. Is it still the gold standard battery tester?
Thanks
I saw someone say a while ago that they've never had a carbon zinc leak... Well yeah, they don't! Unless maybe grossly mishandled or heated or something.
Their electrolyte is just a salt, not like alkaline batteries which is corrosive (hence the "alkaline")
That's why carbon zincs are still essential for some devices like smoke alarms (low drain ones), where an alkaline battery would leak after a year or so.
Also quartz clocks for several reasons:
The inherently greater resistance in cheap carbon zinc batteries acts to limit peak power, so the cheap quartz clocks, which lack a simple protective resistor in their circuits, are often damaged by alkaline batteries.
The voltage is stable for a longer period of time. New alkalines can have a voltage of over 1.6 volts
They never leak
Looking for hotswap volume wheel and TKL with aa battery
Saw these in the store and quickly did the math to realize it’s only $.29 a battery ($6.99 by joining their free rewards program). I use “nice” li-ion batteries for the important stuff but always like to have a pack handy for remotes and kids toys. Cheaper than when I get a generic pack from Amazon or Costco, even the Amazon prime day deals that had their brand batteries on sale.