Hi. I put an all metal hotend on my CR10V2. I read somewhere that It was a good idea to "season" it with some oil to avoid jams, so I added a filament oiler.

I remember doing it one time without the oil and getting jams, this time it has been working perfect.

Nevertheless, I noticed that I can smell the oil and I wonder how safe is that.

I am getting different takes from around the net about it.

My brother in law has a 3D Printer, I usually send him files that I find only and he'll make it for me. Is it that simple? Find an already made product, download the file and print?

Hi guys,

Can anybody help me, I've been wanting a 3d printer for a while now and have been doing quite a bit of reading up on them and have narrowed my choices down to the ones in the title. Which one should I go for and could you tell me why you would go with that one.

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Thank you for your time.

Hi guys! I have a direct drive Flsun v400 Wich print perfectly, but I am wondering if there's a way to have a multi material feeder on it.

Anyone knows or tested any multimaterial feeder for direct drive? Any tips o help?

Thank you bros

I want to print some drawer organizers which need some spaces to hold stuff longer than I can print. Is there some nice OpenSCAD library for creating joints? I suppose I could just butt things together end to end, but some sort of jigsaw join seems stronger. Just curious if there is some generally useful standard way to do this.

I spotted this on amazon and wonder if anyone has used it or something like it inside an enclosure for printing ABS and ASA?

https://www.amazon.com/Pure-Enrichment-PureZone-Portable-Purifier/dp/B09B8SXXM8/

It is a very attractive idea to just pop a small off the shelf product inside the enclosure. (If it works :-)

I just (probably for the first time) changed filament in my MK4 from red PETG to white PLA. The white PLA was pink for a lot of the first layer of the first part I printed. Is this normal? I guess PETG has a higher melting point, and might take a while to be completely purged?

Is there a trade-off between cost of a printer and time spent tinkering?

I started at the low end because I wasn't sure how much use I would get out of the printer. Now my kids are involved in school robotics and the ender 3 is not keeping up. They are pretty good at cad and can create some interesting designs but they are hesitant to make use of them because of slow and unreliable prints. The printer has already been upgraded with a new board, the sprite direct drive extruded, magnetic build plate, and levelling probe. Still I feel like it is nearly random if prints come out well, or at all. I've tried different firmware, including switching entirely to klipper for a while. I'm now using "professional firmware" with sometimes acceptable results. The two big issues I have is that I have to print at very slow speeds to have any hope of a good print and secondly, some prints will randomly warp off the build plate during the print. I've tried various manual levelling and auto mesh levelling strategies. I can get it dialed in and run the test pattern prints with good results, but then print the same item five times and get five different results.

I'm tired of tinkering. I'm not sure how much I'm willing to spend and I'm trying to get an idea if there is a clear money vs tinkering time trade-off. No matter what, I can't imagine spending more that $2000 so I guess that is my absolute upper limit. Is there a certain spending band like 500-1000, 1000-1500, 1500-2000 that will get me a printer that is more fire-and-forget?

if the idea of spending more to avoid tinkering is unrealistic for a sub $2000 printer, I might keep going with the ender 3 and replace the bed and add the dual z-axis upgrade. I know lots of people have had plenty of success with this printer, but I feel like there is something fundamentally wrong with mine like some type of initial assembly mistake or some kind of defect in the parts.

I want to expand the temperature range on my heat bed for ABS and ASA. (I have an Any Cubic Mega X) Is that as simple as switching to another one, or does it require further mods (software or otherwise?)

I’ve been printing filament for over 5 years now (built my own Hypercube Evolution and modified it) my designs are calling for small parts with more detailed with no layer lines and I’m considering resin for that. Any recommendations for a small printer and resin type that can do that without breaking the bank? Thanks.

help me, Please help me decide, or suggest a better printer in the same price range, I'm open to suggestions, thank you very much

Hey, I am thinking of starting a 3dprinter technical comparison site. I am curious what would the community her would like to have on asite like this?

Side by side comparison tables? Spread sheet like filtering printers? Or other ideas?

Any input is gladly appreciated.

Has anyone ever printed a part and embedded flyscreen material midway through the print? I could design something that holds it all together with bolts, but I think an embedded screen would be much cooler.

Background: I am designing a water fountain and looking for a way to keep petals and leaves out of the pump. Current plan is to have the pump sitting in a moat and covered by a round piece of plastic webbing that snaps into the rest of the fountain but can be easily removed for cleaning.

I have an idea question. I was just in the kitchen spinning my lettuce dry and I said to myself, this would be so much easier to do if it had gears. Why don't lettuce spinners have gears and perhaps a govenor? I am not familiar with gears enough at this point to come up with a model myself, but I think it should be fairly simple for someone who is. If you think of how most blenders have one turning knife rotation thing at the bottom of the jar and Ninja set itself apart by having more than one in the jar, then it's a matter of improving a simple product to the point of it being super efficient. I think the model could be made with polypropelene on a standard printer. What do you think?

Hi everyone we run a small free public ambulance service in the neighborhood and we have a Nihon Koden Defibrillator EMS-1052 that we have in the ambulance that we need to carry along each time we go to a patient's house or something

[Link to the product page](https://ae.nihonkohden.com/en/products/resuscitation/defibrillator-ems-1052.html)

Nihon Koden Defibrillator EMS-1052

Currently it's just hanging on the bar with the strap as the picture below

https://preview.redd.it/5p4t1296ra1b1.jpg?width=640&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=94e32abb6db59e7ba7fd50631e13b10deb572028

https://preview.redd.it/s4451396ra1b1.jpg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=885981a647f316381208864b8484c5f05f45cd48

Which rattles alot and shakes etc.

Wondering if anyone can suggest a better way to mount it that also would be easy and fast to pick it up when we need to.

Here's the dimension below according to the website.

Thanks alot in advance

​

https://preview.redd.it/df39xl4hra1b1.png?width=799&format=png&auto=webp&s=fcfdc971750c258fe8fa2d77fda9e89bf519624f

I need to print a structural part that has a bunch of thin vertical tabs, much like a classic heatsink shape. They will be 2-3mm wide.

How big of a nozzle / line width can I use? I am thinking that having 4 walls would be stronger than 2 wider walls (both ending up solid)? And a single very wide wall being even worse?

Hi all!

I’m looking at making a functional part that will have to last long term, ideally decades.

It will have the following environmental conditions:

• zero UV exposure (completely inside a machine)
• normal human temp and humidity ranges, 0-50celsius is worst case limits.
• no stress applied to it (it’s for spacing, maybe a tiny tensile force)

I have a full metal hot end and can print any normal engineering filament, but I obviously want to keep cost and difficulty low if possible.

I just want a material that won’t get overly brittle, warp, or otherwise degrade in that time frame.

Is there any filaments I should worry about in that scenario? Would PLA start to break down?

Thanks!!

Is there any file for a gantry support that can be 100% printed?

on a ender 3 pro

I have a jammed BIQU H2 direct drive extruder with an all metal hot end.

I think it's jammed because the extruder won't push out or pull up the filament.

I think it happened because my Silk PLA print was failing, and then when I stopped the print, I also accidentally asked my printer to home - so I shut the printer off to prevent the motors from getting damaged. (This turned off the hot end fan).
I immediately turned the printer back on so that the fan would turn back on, but I think the emergency turn off let heat creep happen and I think that it's jammed above the hot end, below the extruder.
I tried heating my printer to 245 (15c above my normal print temp), but I still couldn't push or pull the filament to clear the clog.

Can I heat the printer very high above PLA print temp and push the filament down until it goes through to clear the clog? Will that damage anything?

Any suggestions?

Ive had to move my setup due to recently becoming a dad and the baby being sensitive to the sound. Using this as an opportunity to upgrade.

Looking ooking for something fully enclosed, heated bed, self leveling that can support dual filament.

I need to be able to print material that are higher temp resistant such as ASB as well as pla.

Edit: spelling

I'll need an area of about 8x8 inches (20x20 cm) where the printer can print. The quality of the result needs to be really good and hardly distinguishable from non 3D printed stuff. It also needs to be very durable product.

Simple question: Let's say I have a V-slot ganrry design that I want to print from PETG and I want it to be as strong as possible, while being as light as possible.

What should I do? Make the part thicker since it's basically just a plate, or add more infill? Both parts will be otherwise equal in print orientation, print settings and design.